I'm sending my fp to Kolari tomorrow to get the Ultra Thin sensor mod done. Since it's their first time seeing the camera, they initially offered to do it for free, but that didn't quite sit right with me so I offered to at least cover for parts and some labor, so we settled on $100. Which is still a very good deal for their time, expertise and resources.
I asked if they'd publish the measurements of the sensor glass - if it wouldn't step on any toes - and also asked if they could have a look at the possibility of modifying the LCD to be a flip screen. I'd totally pay someone to do that, or DIY it if it's possible.
Hi all who use and have used this camera.
I'm seriously considering it to replace my SL for my M glass. The SL ticks all the boxes, except its size, and increasingly I've found myself reluctant to bring it out because it is too hefty. My main camera is an M10M, so this would be the colour option (let's say 20% of the time). I love the idea of having a tiny camera to put in my bag when I shoot with the M10M.
I know at some point I'd be annoyed that there's no evf (but magnifying the focus point in the LCD should help), the lack of a mechanical shutter (but from what I hear/read, rolling shutter isn't that massive a deal and I shall try to adjust shutter speeds to the appropriate 1/30 - 1/60 speeds in artificial light), and the lack of a top lcd (I like top lcds, especially if a camera doesn't have an iso or shutter speed dial.. but will live without it cause the camera is so small). I'd probably also find occasions where I would appreciate the SL level of M lens compatibility, 6bit coding and exif data, though this is not a deal breaker as I don't nitpick my images to the extent it warrants fussing over minor colour casts or reduced sharpness in corners due to a slightly thicker sensor stack.
So whilst I appear to have come to terms with the major gripes of this camera, in a long winded way I've come to realise...my current biggest gripe about the camera is how fussy and annoying the rear wheel is. I've read many complaints about the sensitivity of the rear wheel - has locking it been included in the menus? Do you find this rear wheel to be an issue? If so, how do you handle it?
I would likely shoot aperture priority with M glass most of the time with this cam, and manual with auto ISO (basically to control shutter speed) the rest of the time. I don't know if knowing how I'd shoot the FP has any bearing as to whether the rear wheel sensitivity would be an issue or not.
I think I saw that YouTube video, with the two guys at the zoo? YouTube deals in hyperbole, I don't think the dial is "too loose", at least not on mine. The problem is that there's not a lot of real estate on the camera, so dials and buttons are close together by necessity.
What I will say, is that I have never used any sort of grip (outside of my various video rigs) and it works. Yes, you can lock the dials and will occasionally hit some button or dial by accident if you don't, but I haven't found it necessary. I do disable the touch screen by default, though.
I'd say that you should just rent one for a weekend because I'm not sure anyone else can say if it will bother you specifically.
aFrIcanSH wrote:
Hi all who use and have used this camera.
I'm seriously considering it to replace my SL for my M glass. The SL ticks all the boxes, except its size, and increasingly I've found myself reluctant to bring it out because it is too hefty. My main camera is an M10M, so this would be the colour option (let's say 20% of the time). I love the idea of having a tiny camera to put in my bag when I shoot with the M10M.
I know at some point I'd be annoyed that there's no evf (but magnifying the focus point in the LCD should help), the lack of a mechanical shutter (but from what I hear/read, rolling shutter isn't that massive a deal and I shall try to adjust shutter speeds to the appropriate 1/30 - 1/60 speeds in artificial light), and the lack of a top lcd (I like top lcds, especially if a camera doesn't have an iso or shutter speed dial.. but will live without it cause the camera is so small). I'd probably also find occasions where I would appreciate the SL level of M lens compatibility, 6bit coding and exif data, though this is not a deal breaker as I don't nitpick my images to the extent it warrants fussing over minor colour casts or reduced sharpness in corners due to a slightly thicker sensor stack.
So whilst I appear to have come to terms with the major gripes of this camera, in a long winded way I've come to realise...my current biggest gripe about the camera is how fussy and annoying the rear wheel is. I've read many complaints about the sensitivity of the rear wheel - has locking it been included in the menus? Do you find this rear wheel to be an issue? If so, how do you handle it?
I would likely shoot aperture priority with M glass most of the time with this cam, and manual with auto ISO (basically to control shutter speed) the rest of the time. I don't know if knowing how I'd shoot the FP has any bearing as to whether the rear wheel sensitivity would be an issue or not. ...Show more →
imagesfromobjects wrote:
I think I saw that YouTube video, with the two guys at the zoo? YouTube deals in hyperbole, I don't think the dial is "too loose", at least not on mine. The problem is that there's not a lot of real estate on the camera, so dials and buttons are close together by necessity.
What I will say, is that I have never used any sort of grip (outside of my various video rigs) and it works. Yes, you can lock the dials and will occasionally hit some button or dial by accident if you don't, but I haven't found it necessary. I do disable the touch screen by default, though.
I'd say that you should just rent one for a weekend because I'm not sure anyone else can say if it will bother you specifically.
...Show more →aFrIcanSH wroteHi all who use and have used this camera.
I'm seriously considering it to replace my SL for my M glass. The SL ticks all the boxes, except its size, and increasingly I've found myself reluctant to bring it out because it is too hefty. My main camera is an M10M, so this would be the colour option (let's say 20% of the time). I love the idea of having a tiny camera to put in my bag when I shoot with the M10M.
I know at some point I'd be annoyed that there's no evf (but magnifying the focus point in the LCD should help), the lack of a mechanical shutter (but from what I hear/read, rolling shutter isn't that massive a deal and I shall try to adjust shutter speeds to the appropriate 1/30 - 1/60 speeds in artificial light), and the lack of a top lcd (I like top lcds, especially if a camera doesn't have an iso or shutter speed dial.. but will live without it cause the camera is so small). I'd probably also find occasions where I would appreciate the SL level of M lens compatibility, 6bit coding and exif data, though this is not a deal breaker as I don't nitpick my images to the extent it warrants fussing over minor colour casts or reduced sharpness in corners due to a slightly thicker sensor stack.
So whilst I appear to have come to terms with the major gripes of this camera, in a long winded way I've come to realise...my current biggest gripe about the camera is how fussy and annoying the rear wheel is. I've read many complaints about the sensitivity of the rear wheel - has locking it been included in the menus? Do you find this rear wheel to be an issue? If so, how do you handle it?
I would likely shoot aperture priority with M glass most of the time with this cam, and manual with auto ISO (basically to control shutter speed) the rest of the time. I don't know if knowing how I'd shoot the FP has any bearing as to whether the rear wheel sensitivity would be an issue or not.
Thanks for your reply!
I agree renting might be the best option for me to get a feel of things (but it also requires me to shoot intensely over a short period of time, and that might not be representative of more long term use).
As for everything else except the rear wheel, would my "workarounds" for the lack of EVF and rolling shutter in artificial light work based on your experience with the camera?
I'm actually thinking of taking the plunge, there's one for a good price where I'm at and I'm really drawn the to idea of a tiny FF camera in L-mount. I find the L-mount my preferred mount at the moment due to the fast-expanding high-quality options from the 3 manufacturers in terms of lenses and cameras. And there's this thing about the FP...I think you mentioned underdog. It could be that, from a smallish family run company, plus it's quirky. Definitely a cult favourite camera - I've been drawn to the idea of it since it was announced.
This article by Jim Kasson is very helpful. The TL;DR is use shutter speeds that are multiples of 30 (1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125 etc) in the US, and multiples of 50 elsewhere when shooting in artificial light. Rolling shutter I've only experienced with vehicles, but not toddlers, so I'd be wary of using it as a "sports" camera, but it cn handle most fast action. Again, YMMV.
aFrIcanSH wrote: imagesfromobjects wroteI think I saw that YouTube video, with the two guys at the zoo? YouTube deals in hyperbole, I don't think the dial is "too loose", at least not on mine. The problem is that there's not a lot of real estate on the camera, so dials and buttons are close together by necessity.
What I will say, is that I have never used any sort of grip (outside of my various video rigs) and it works. Yes, you can lock the dials and will occasionally hit some button or dial by accident if you don't, but I haven't found it necessary. I do disable the touch screen by default, though.
I'd say that you should just rent one for a weekend because I'm not sure anyone else can say if it will bother you specifically.
aFrIcanSH wroteHi all who use and have used this camera.
I'm seriously considering it to replace my SL for my M glass. The SL ticks all the boxes, except its size, and increasingly I've found myself reluctant to bring it out because it is too hefty. My main camera is an M10M, so this would be the colour option (let's say 20% of the time). I love the idea of having a tiny camera to put in my bag when I shoot with the M10M.
I know at some point I'd be annoyed that there's no evf (but magnifying the focus point in the LCD should help), the lack of a mechanical shutter (but from what I hear/read, rolling shutter isn't that massive a deal and I shall try to adjust shutter speeds to the appropriate 1/30 - 1/60 speeds in artificial light), and the lack of a top lcd (I like top lcds, especially if a camera doesn't have an iso or shutter speed dial.. but will live without it cause the camera is so small). I'd probably also find occasions where I would appreciate the SL level of M lens compatibility, 6bit coding and exif data, though this is not a deal breaker as I don't nitpick my images to the extent it warrants fussing over minor colour casts or reduced sharpness in corners due to a slightly thicker sensor stack.
So whilst I appear to have come to terms with the major gripes of this camera, in a long winded way I've come to realise...my current biggest gripe about the camera is how fussy and annoying the rear wheel is. I've read many complaints about the sensitivity of the rear wheel - has locking it been included in the menus? Do you find this rear wheel to be an issue? If so, how do you handle it?
I would likely shoot aperture priority with M glass most of the time with this cam, and manual with auto ISO (basically to control shutter speed) the rest of the time. I don't know if knowing how I'd shoot the FP has any bearing as to whether the rear wheel sensitivity would be an issue or not.Thanks for your reply!
I agree renting might be the best option for me to get a feel of things (but it also requires me to shoot intensely over a short period of time, and that might not be representative of more long term use).
As for everything else except the rear wheel, would my "workarounds" for the lack of EVF and rolling shutter in artificial light work based on your experience with the camera?
I'm actually thinking of taking the plunge, there's one for a good price where I'm at and I'm really drawn the to idea of a tiny FF camera in L-mount. I find the L-mount my preferred mount at the moment due to the fast-expanding high-quality options from the 3 manufacturers in terms of lenses and cameras. And there's this thing about the FP...I think you mentioned underdog. It could be that, from a smallish family run company, plus it's quirky. Definitely a cult favourite camera - I've been drawn to the idea of it since it was announced....Show more →
Initially when I used my fp without any grip I occasionally changed the exposure comp accidentally by unintentional rear wheel movement but since I've been using the small grip it has not happened again. I'd recommend the small HG-11 grip especially if you shoot a lot in portrait orientation (I do that a lot even though I don't shoot portraits or people that often). I think it's easier to hit the back wheel unintentionally when shooting in portrait orientation without any grip. The wheel is very useful for adjusting exposure comp on purpose when needed though.
As for the lack of evf, magnifying the focus point in the LCD will definitely help but sometimes in bright outdoor light it's difficult to see what's on the LCD with sufficient clarity for careful focusing without using the add-on viewfinder. I also use magnification to work with manual focusing when not using the viewfinder though and mostly it works OK.
So I've picked the camera up. Just some thoughts for now.
So far rolling shutter isn't an issue and neither are artificial lights - but have only tested it in a few locations. The handgrip does help "elevate" the camera off the body when it is used, such that the rear wheel doesn't rub against my shirt when I sling the camera cross bodied. One annoyance is the camera being front heavy when I use the 35 FLE, which I suppose I should have seen coming as my A7S was front heavy with the same lens as well. It is also front heavy when I use the 28cron. Because the strap lugs spin around and the camera is a smallish box shape, I've resorted to slinging the camera cross body but the camera rests with its base (as opposed to lcd) against my body with the lens facing towards the ground at a 45degree angle. This way the camera doesn't move around too much when I walk.
The strap the camera came with is quite nice.
With the small handgrip,it definitely feels nicer to hold the camera vertical as Juha mentioned. I think a hand strap with handgrip might be my default carrying setup.
The lack of evf takes getting used to, I did put the camera to my face a couple of times out of habit. I think ill get used to it - am using punch in focus with that box at 4x magnification.
The camera I got didn't come with the original charger and USB-C cable but with a large 3rd party charger which charges two batteries at a go. I'm wondering if I can use my Samsung S10 charger for the camera (not sure about the voltage and other specs of the sigma charger, I couldn't find details online - anyone here can provide the specs as printed on the charger?). Would also like to hear your travel charger solutions.. The dual battery charger is way too big, and I'm not keen on charging via the camera in any case.
My original Sigma charger that came in the box with the USB+C cable has this text on it:
Input: 100-240V ~ 50/60Hz 0.25A
19VA(100V) - 24VA(240V)
Output: 5.0V==1.8A
I've been using a different Anker dual-port charger with the camera that outputs 5.0V == 2.4A per port without issues.
Juha Kannisto wrote:
My original Sigma charger that came in the box with the USB+C cable has this text on it:
Input: 100-240V ~ 50/60Hz 0.25A
19VA(100V) - 24VA(240V)
Output: 5.0V==1.8A
I've been using a different Anker dual-port charger with the camera that outputs 5.0V == 2.4A per port without issues.
Thanks! I think most of my usb chargers lying around should work then.
Hi,
1st post here..
I'm having trouble downloading the Sigma photo program to my win7 64bit computer for my new fp camera..download always fails..
Any suggestions..?
Or does this program just download for Win8 and up?
Thx for any help here!
Cheers,
EDL7
EDL7 wrote:
Hi,
1st post here..
I'm having trouble downloading the Sigma photo program to my win7 64bit computer for my new fp camera..download always fails..
Any suggestions..?
Or does this program just download for Win8 and up?
Thx for any help here!
Cheers,
EDL7
In the System Requirements section they list the following:
------------------
Equivalent to Intel® Core2 Duo Processor or more (Intel® Core™ i series or higher is recommended)
Windows 8.1 or Windows 10 is preinstalled (64bit OS)
4GB or higher RAM (8GB or more is recommended)
5GB of available hard disk space (10GB or more is recommended)
24-bit (16,770,000 color) graphic card or higher
1280×960px monitor resolution or higher
------------------
So it looks like the current versions that support Sigma fp might not work on Windows 7.
It's quite troublesome to edit with Sigma Photo Pro even when it works, it is very slow to operate. I do most of my Sigma fp photo post processing on Capture One Pro 20 or in-camera instead. I have used SPP a couple of times to edit a handful of photos but for any larger volumes it's annoyingly slow to operate.
-Corrected the phenomenon of displaying white corners on DNGs or CinemaDNGs in some development software when using the following combination;
SIGMA fp and Panasonic’s LUMIX S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 with the Lens Optics Correction function Vignetting setting set to ‘auto’, when the focal length is 20mm and aperture value of F3.5.
-Corrected the bug related to Blackmagic RAW codec recording over HDMI with Blackmagic Video Assist 12G model manufactured by Blackmagic Design.*1
– Corrected the bug related to Compressed RAW over HDMI recording with Atomos Ninja V monitor-recorder.*2
*1 Requires firmware update of Video Assist 12G models using Video Assist Update.
*2 A free ATOMOS firmware update for Ninja V is required.
--------------------------------
Oh, that's awesome! Mine is still at Kolari, due to a shipment delay from their glass supplier, but they said the good news is that they got the camera open and the glass is removable.
By the way, the sensor stack is approximately ~1.3mm by their measurements.
Thanks for the heads up!
*EDIT- being that you are in Japan, would you happen to have any suggestions on the best way to reach them? It seems like they're addressed every one of my gripes besides the focusing square not disappearing in firmware, so I'd like to submit a proper request for that.
Juha Kannisto wrote:
Sigma released new fp firmware 2.0.1 with a couple of bug fixes earlier this week: https://www.sigma-global.com/en/news/2020/08/27/2924/
--------------------------------
[Benefits of the update]
(Ver2.01)
-Corrected the phenomenon of displaying white corners on DNGs or CinemaDNGs in some development software when using the following combination;
SIGMA fp and Panasonic’s LUMIX S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 with the Lens Optics Correction function Vignetting setting set to ‘auto’, when the focal length is 20mm and aperture value of F3.5.
-Corrected the bug related to Blackmagic RAW codec recording over HDMI with Blackmagic Video Assist 12G model manufactured by Blackmagic Design.*1
– Corrected the bug related to Compressed RAW over HDMI recording with Atomos Ninja V monitor-recorder.*2
*1 Requires firmware update of Video Assist 12G models using Video Assist Update.
*2 A free ATOMOS firmware update for Ninja V is required.
--------------------------------...Show more →
I hope they get your UT modification done without too much delay, very interested in the results. ~1.3mm sounds pretty thin and much thinner than Sony sensor stack. Thanks for getting that information. I've always observed better across the frame sharpness with my fp using my rangefinder lenses so I suspected the sensor stack must be thinner than on Sony, but color shading is still a bit more of an issue. Anyway, I've created a comprehensive Lens Cast Calibration (LCC) profiles for all my rangefinder glass in C1 Pro 20 already so it's not so much of an issue for me anymore as long as I do my PP in C1.
I've not tried to reach Sigma for bug reports but their CEO (https://twitter.com/KazutoYamaki) is pretty active in Twitter and he communicates with Japanese Sigma users there quite often and he retweets Sigma related content and his own photos as well. He retweeted some of my Sigma fp photo tweets twice too and he often replies to Sigma users comments there, but I guess it might not be the best approach for SW issue reports or change requests. Sigma's Japanese website has an e-mail contact address [email protected] which seems to be an alternative to their phone support services in Japan so that might be an option to try. Their Japanese Sigma Twitter account might also be one contact option (https://twitter.com/sigma_japan). I don't know how responsive they are to English queries through those addresses though. Before Covid-19 they arranged quite many touch-and-try events in Tokyo and visiting those was a good way to have contact and talks with their staff. I visited one Sigma fp event like that but I didn't collect any contact info that time...
imagesfromobjects wrote:
Oh, that's awesome! Mine is still at Kolari, due to a shipment delay from their glass supplier, but they said the good news is that they got the camera open and the glass is removable.
By the way, the sensor stack is approximately ~1.3mm by their measurements.
Thanks for the heads up!
*EDIT- being that you are in Japan, would you happen to have any suggestions on the best way to reach them? It seems like they're addressed every one of my gripes besides the focusing square not disappearing in firmware, so I'd like to submit a proper request for that.
-Corrected the phenomenon of displaying white corners on DNGs or CinemaDNGs in some development software when using the following combination;
SIGMA fp and Panasonic’s LUMIX S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 with the Lens Optics Correction function Vignetting setting set to ‘auto’, when the focal length is 20mm and aperture value of F3.5.
-Corrected the bug related to Blackmagic RAW codec recording over HDMI with Blackmagic Video Assist 12G model manufactured by Blackmagic Design.*1
– Corrected the bug related to Compressed RAW over HDMI recording with Atomos Ninja V monitor-recorder.*2
*1 Requires firmware update of Video Assist 12G models using Video Assist Update.
*2 A free ATOMOS firmware update for Ninja V is required.
--------------------------------
Good to know... Panasonic has 1.45mm thickness per Kolari. I will try Leica 24mm 3.8 to see how it will perform on the FP sensor. I have a mod A7R as it was at same price as used A7R, but the color shift plus the loud shutter are issues... New A7C might be a good small option to mod, but it will not be cheap as it was initially rumored...
I need to update the firmware also...
imagesfromobjects wrote:
By the way, the sensor stack is approximately ~1.3mm by their measurements.
Hi,
Just bought the fp..
Cant figure out how to upload files to my computer..
Cine files dont even appear in the Sigma photo pro screen.
The fp software is proving not to be very obvious in this regard..
And the instructions are not a help either..
Can anyone clear this up for me here?
What are the actual steps?
Thx for any help given.
EDL7 wrote:
Hi,
Just bought the fp..
Cant figure out how to upload files to my computer..
Cine files dont even appear in the Sigma photo pro screen.
The fp software is proving not to be very obvious in this regard..
And the instructions are not a help either..
Can anyone clear this up for me here?
What are the actual steps?
Thx for any help given.
Have you browsed the manual at all? Because transferring photos is pretty much the same with any other digital camera. Either you do it via a cable or the card. If your computer doesn't have an SD card slot you'll need to get a USB card reader. Or, use the USB cable included with the camera, but I'm not sure your computer will recognize the camera. You really may want to upgrade to Windows 10, because a lot of stuff is just not going to happen with Windows 7.
As far as video - same deal. If you are recording MOV or ALL-1 format, the files will be in a folder on the camera labeled "Cinema" and you can transfer those as-is. They should be playable in any new-ish media player, but if you're stuck, use VLC. It's 100% free to download and use. CinemaDNG is another story altogether. You can view and edit the photo files using any current editing software.
Is this, ummm... I don't mean to sound condescending, but is this your first digital camera? Just curious why someone would choose it without a grasp of the basics.
Juha Kannisto wrote:
I hope they get your UT modification done without too much delay, very interested in the results. ~1.3mm sounds pretty thin and much thinner than Sony sensor stack. Thanks for getting that information. I've always observed better across the frame sharpness with my fp using my rangefinder lenses so I suspected the sensor stack must be thinner than on Sony, but color shading is still a bit more of an issue. Anyway, I've created a comprehensive Lens Cast Calibration (LCC) profiles for all my rangefinder glass in C1 Pro 20 already so it's not so much of an issue for me anymore as long as I do my PP in C1.
I've not tried to reach Sigma for bug reports but their CEO (https://twitter.com/KazutoYamaki) is pretty active in Twitter and he communicates with Japanese Sigma users there quite often and he retweets Sigma related content and his own photos as well. He retweeted some of my Sigma fp photo tweets twice too and he often replies to Sigma users comments there, but I guess it might not be the best approach for SW issue reports or change requests. Sigma's Japanese website has an e-mail contact address [email protected] which seems to be an alternative to their phone support services in Japan so that might be an option to try. Their Japanese Sigma Twitter account might also be one contact option (https://twitter.com/sigma_japan). I don't know how responsive they are to English queries through those addresses though. Before Covid-19 they arranged quite many touch-and-try events in Tokyo and visiting those was a good way to have contact and talks with their staff. I visited one Sigma fp event like that but I didn't collect any contact info that time...
...Show more →imagesfromobjects wroteOh, that's awesome! Mine is still at Kolari, due to a shipment delay from their glass supplier, but they said the good news is that they got the camera open and the glass is removable.
By the way, the sensor stack is approximately ~1.3mm by their measurements.
Thanks for the heads up!
*EDIT- being that you are in Japan, would you happen to have any suggestions on the best way to reach them? It seems like they're addressed every one of my gripes besides the focusing square not disappearing in firmware, so I'd like to submit a proper request for that.
Juha Kannisto wroteSigma released new fp firmware 2.0.1 with a couple of bug fixes earlier this week: https://www.sigma-global.com/en/news/2020/08/27/2924/
--------------------------------
[Benefits of the update]
(Ver2.01)
-Corrected the phenomenon of displaying white corners on DNGs or CinemaDNGs in some development software when using the following combination;
SIGMA fp and Panasonic’s LUMIX S 20-60mm F3.5-5.6 with the Lens Optics Correction function Vignetting setting set to ‘auto’, when the focal length is 20mm and aperture value of F3.5.
-Corrected the bug related to Blackmagic RAW codec recording over HDMI with Blackmagic Video Assist 12G model manufactured by Blackmagic Design.*1
– Corrected the bug related to Compressed RAW over HDMI recording with Atomos Ninja V monitor-recorder.*2
*1 Requires firmware update of Video Assist 12G models using Video Assist Update.
*2 A free ATOMOS firmware update for Ninja V is required.
--------------------------------
Also, I think Sigma Photo Pro may not be designed to support any video editing or even viewing. From its description:
----–
SIGMA Photo Pro 6.7.4 is an exclusive software package for displaying and manipulating RAW images taken with all SIGMA digital cameras on your computer.
-----
I suppose it's only meant to support photos but not video. I don't shoot any video myself so I haven't tried to do anything with video files in SPP, but it looks very photo oriented.