I have been a professional photographer for 35years and have seen the evolution of how digital photography excites the industry and also kills it. I bought my M11-P this May and truly love it. One thing I never like about it is the screen as I never rally use it after I have set the parameters I need for the camera to function. So, it is kinda like a white elephant in the room. So, now with the new M11-D, I have to make a decision if I am willing to lose some money and go get this new camera which has the aesthetic that I love or should I wait for the new M12-P. The answer is simple...with what M11 already has, I do not need any additional function such as ibis or built in evf. All that makes my heart beats faster is this M11-D
I used to drewl over D cameras. But after using my M for a while now, I find that while I really do not care for the screen, there are a few things I really find it useful for:
1. formatting the card (ha!)
2. setting lens data (though half the time I forget...)
3 when travelling, changing the timezone, this helps to sync all photos from phones, gopro, dslr, etc in the right order.
4 also when travelling, when back in the hotel at the end of the day just a quick review, not to cull but just to go through the day
So it basically gets very little use but at the same time, if I had to use a phone and an app to do all those rare and small tasks above that would really piss me off.
I agree. I am sure for most people, what can be done on the screen is very useful. For the few, it is good to have a choice. Everyone is happy
I never format my card on the camera, somehow I am used to do it on my computer. I also am not concerned about syncing time or whatever. The only thing I care about is a great raw file , a duo storage and a good 35mm lens. ...shoot and then download onto my computer
Received the M11-D today. Rangefinder patch stops before infinity subject alignment is achieved at the lens hard stop. Tested on lens known to be accurate on previous M11M and M11. Subject alignment in the patch at the hard stop happens at about 70 meters instead of infinity. Vertical alignment of the subject in the rangefinder patch is also slightly off. Subject was large double telephone pole at a distance of greater than one mile compared with a pine tree top at 70 meters. Already submitted the return request.
Edit – heck with it. Adjusted it myself with the 2mm Allen wrench. Took just a very, very slight movement to align infinity. Vertical alignment seems better with horizontal now correct. Now just to test to make sure closer and mid distance focus are right.
highdesertmesa wrote:
Received the M11-D today. Rangefinder patch stops before infinity subject alignment is achieved at the lens hard stop. Tested on lens known to be accurate on previous M11M and M11. Subject alignment in the patch at the hard stop happens at about 70 meters instead of infinity. Vertical alignment of the subject in the rangefinder patch is also slightly off. Subject was large double telephone pole at a distance of greater than one mile compared with a pine tree top at 70 meters. Already submitted the return request.
Edit – heck with it. Adjusted it myself with the 2mm Allen wrench. Took just a very, very slight movement to align infinity. Vertical alignment seems better with horizontal now correct. Now just to test to make sure closer and mid distance focus are right....Show more →
Most of the time, it's straightforward to correct minor issues like the ones you experienced. In my opinion, it's important for everyone to know how to make these adjustments. However, if the situation requires a more complex fix and you recently purchased the camera, it would be better to return it rather than wait for Leica service.
Once you get it all set, let us know your opinion.
Fred Miranda wrote:
Most of the time, it's straightforward to correct minor issues like the ones you experienced. In my opinion, it's important for everyone to know how to make these adjustments. However, if the situation requires a more complex fix and you recently purchased the camera, it would be better to return it rather than wait for Leica service.
Once you get it all set, let us know your opinion.
Agreed. That was my first time to adjust the horizontal alignment, and it was pretty easy. Focus wide open seems spot-on at indoor distances down to MFD with the two M lenses I have.
Excited to try the camera out more tomorrow. So far I really like it. The finish isn't as rough as the M11. The D finish feels more like the SL3 than it does the original M11 finish.
Directions say for connecting to FOTOS, see that section of the manual – but there's no section in the manual specific to FOTOS. I was chicken to connect by Wi-Fi with the button presses of the camera and would have preferred to use a cable. But I went ahead and did the rear wheel button press for 12 seconds to turn on connectivity. A counter starts running in the rangefinder 1-2-3 seconds..., then on releasing the rear wheel button, the red rangefinder display readout shows that connectivity is on. Then I press the function button for 5 seconds to start the pairing process. FOTOS connected right to it.
The camera settings in FOTOS were easy to edit. Things I changed:
Lens Detection = Off (only using uncoded lenses at the moment)
DNG + JPEG to SD Only (will probably change to DNG only later, but I wanted to retain easy JPEG transfer to the phone if needed – will depend on how much I use or don't use FOTOS)
Turned on Content Credentials and entered my info
Metering = Center Weighted
Max Auto ISO = 25K
Min Shutter Speed with Auto ISO = 1/125
Took a few shots while FOTOS was connected to check the rangefinder focus alignment. FOTOS displays right away that a new photo was taken, then clicking on the photo and enlarging it causes it to download the full res, which takes about 3 seconds. Zooming into the photo on the app is very fluid, and photos when zoomed are nice and crisp.
New packaging is great. I hated the old silver boxes because there was always a lot of dusty paper particles and little paper shards inside due to the poor cutting process by whomever produced their boxes all those years.
For some reason Leica includes a USB-C to USB-A cable. Not sure what's up with that. Where's that really high quality feeling USB-C to USB-C cable they included with the SL3? I guess this is the Euro regulations fully kicking in, and the cable they included is considered an adapter or something.
Most of the time with my M11 and M11M cameras, I would have to turn the camera on then back off with the charging cable inserted before charging would begin and the light indicating it was charging would turn on. Plugging in the D started the lights right up.
I really like the reduced camera thickness at the middle, which makes holding the camera really nice. In the hand it does feel like an MP or M-A film camera. I think the aluminum top of the D versus the brass of the MP is cancelled out by the weight of the electronics inside the D. I think the D with the battery installed is only 61g lighter than the MP. Rear wheel of the D is metal, though, not plastic like the MP. It's also thicker than the silver dial on the M-A, so overall the ISO dial quality seems better than the film cameras, IMO.
Will report more later after I've shot with it more.
highdesertmesa wrote:
For some reason Leica includes a USB-C to USB-A cable. Not sure what's up with that. Where's that really high quality feeling USB-C to USB-C cable they included with the SL3? I guess this is the Euro regulations fully kicking in, and the cable they included is considered an adapter or something.
Surprising, the regulation is that everything is USB-C. Maybe they had a few of those cables spare so decided to save that $1 on the $9000 camera. Every little counts!
And yes, adjusting the rangefinder is very easy, especially if you have a camera with the screw vs logo.
Anyway, enjoy your new camera! Ahhh...the smell and feel of fresh gear
11M But I am not sure if one can use that camera without any fiter on it. If one has to put a colored filter in front of the lens, the higher iso will not be of any more advantage.
I always realigned my M when I receive them I prefer my rangefinder to be spot on at the f4/f5.6 range. So, when I use my pre asph 35mm with the rangefinder, I will shoot at f4 or 5.6. The focus will be spot on, so is the infinity once I do this adjustment.
This means that the wide open f1.2 will be really off when I shoot with rangefinder. I only use evf for wide open shots so it works out perfectly
amagnetic2570 wrote:
I always realigned my M when I receive them I prefer my rangefinder to be spot on at the f4/f5.6 range. So, when I use my pre asph 35mm with the rangefinder, I will shoot at f4 or 5.6. The focus will be spot on, so is the infinity once I do this adjustment.
This means that the wide open f1.2 will be really off when I shoot with rangefinder. I only use evf for wide open shots so it works out perfectly
I would think in your case you'd benefit from having the pre-asph lens itself adjusted to f/4-5.6 rather than the rangefinder, that way they all work with the rangefinder.
You mean I should have adjusted the lens to f4/5.6？ How does one do that and what benefit will that be？ If that can be done,
when I shoot at f1.2 with the rangefinder, it will be off.
When the camera freshly arrived, I did a test and find the rangefinder to be aligned around f1.8. This means I can accurately focus with the rangefinder and get a very sharp image at f2. But as I shoot at 4 or 5,6, the focus is off. So, I figured it will be best to calibrate the rangefinder t f4/5.6 while having the evf meant for f1.2
I seriously don't think any pre asph lens can be focus sharply from f1.2 to f5.6, with any calibration done. This is the known issue
for such lens.
Please pardon my ignorance. If it can be fully calibrated at all aperture, please advise me
amagnetic2570 wrote:
Sorry I don't quite understand your statement.
You mean I should have adjusted the lens to f4/5.6？ How does one do that and what benefit will that be？ If that can be done,
when I shoot at f1.2 with the rangefinder, it will be off.
When the camera freshly arrived, I did a test and find the rangefinder to be aligned around f1.8. This means I can accurately focus with the rangefinder and get a very sharp image at f2. But as I shoot at 4 or 5,6, the focus is off. So, I figured it will be best to calibrate the rangefinder t f4/5.6 while having the evf meant for f1.2
I seriously don't think any pre asph lens can be focus sharply from f1.2 to f5.6, with any calibration done. This is the known issue
for such lens.
Please pardon my ignorance. If it can be fully calibrated at all aperture, please advise me ...Show more →
What 35 pre-asph lens has a maximum aperture of f/1.2? I assumed you were talking about two different lenses and you wanted the pre-asph to be calibrated stopped down, then you were lamenting that you had another lens that your calibration was throwing off at f/1.2.
So I'm guessing you were talking about the same lens and meant f/1.4.
But my point is the way the rangefinder versus lenses are calibrated is the camera is calibrated to a known standard, then the lenses can be adjusted to match. If you adjust the rangefinder to accommodate a single lens at a certain aperture, it's going to be off for all other lenses.
Honestly, it’s not a good idea to adjust the rangefinder based on a lens with a lot of aberrations (such as spherical aberration causing focus shift, etc.). This might be why you prefer to adjust with the lens stopped down to f/4 or f/5.6. However, at these apertures, the depth of field is too large, making adjustments more difficult and less reliable.
I recommend adjusting your RF with a well-corrected lens, stopping it down just 1 or 2 stops. For example, I like to use my Leica 50/1.4 Lux, which I know is well-aligned, and stop it down to f/2 to make my adjustments. If I want to be absolutely sure, I use the Leica 90/2 APO for adjustments. It provides a very precise adjustment position, where even a tiny focus rotation makes a noticeable difference. I know if these lenses are 100% aligned, all my other lenses will be as well.
For some strange reason, this calbration also works for my summilux 50mm 1.2. (I keep confusingthe 1.2/1.4....hahaha)
My guess is Leica calibrate the rangefinder to fit the lens near wide open. So, when I calibrate the rangefinder this way, it seems to fit these two lenses. Anyway, I rarely use the 50mm.
Thank you very much for the explanation, greatly appreciated
Thanks Fred... Your suggestion is dead solid. I just happen to adjust the 35mm simply because I use this lens 90% of the time and after I did that, it also is calibrated to the 50mm Summilux, which I would guess it is well corrected as I bought new.
What I did is to focus the rangefinder and then match with the evf and see if I can get the near focus and far focus precisely nailed. Since I only tried with these two lenses, it may be just pure luck.
Continuing to use the M11-D. Just dropping a random note here about how I often find myself taking the first shot of a series and looking at the back of the camera out of habit. But instead of wondering where the screen is, I just get big smile on my face remembering I’m shooting like I was with my old M film cameras. I feel my confidence building about getting the exposure nailed. It helped me a lot to change the camera’s metering mode to Highlight Weighted, as it makes the D seem even more like “set-it-and m-forget-it” camera. Highlight Weighted without the rear screen reminds me of shooting color negative film, which is very tolerant of overexposure.
