Thinking of getting 70-300 AF-P VR FX...thoughts? The other contender was Sigma 100-400 but my experience with Sigmas on DX has been abysmal at best, so not sure about that.
The DX version of 70-300AF-P was my favorite- incredible sharpness.
Slowcaptain wrote:
Thinking of getting 70-300 AF-P VR FX...thoughts? The other contender was Sigma 100-400 but my experience with Sigmas on DX has been abysmal at best, so not sure about that.
The DX version of 70-300AF-P was my favorite- incredible sharpness.
I bought this lens for a super low weight set Z6, 24-70/4, 70-300E and future 14-30/4
The lens is pretty fast and IQ is good.
Chris Dees wrote:
I bought this lens for a super low weight set Z6, 24-70/4, 70-300E and future 14-30/4
The lens is pretty fast and IQ is good.
Yes, lightweight setup was/is my goal too. The aim was to go light with Z 6, but seeing behemoth native lenses for mirrorless has me question my decision!
Slowcaptain wrote:
Yes, lightweight setup was/is my goal too. The aim was to go light with Z 6, but seeing behemoth native lenses for mirrorless has me question my decision!
My new dungeon of pain!! Wahoo Kickr 2018 with Kickr climb and lots of sweating on zwift!!1689km later and 30k elevation I lost 14 pounds in five weeks and im in way better shape!!
Thank You turbodude! I was a gamer when I was younger and I've always exercise but last two years I've been more a couch potato!! It combine 2 of my passions and makes.it fun! Can't wait to try my hobie pedal kayak! I'll fly on the water this summer! Lol
That’s what Tony does, it’s because he gets more hits and more money, the more controversial he is and he doesn’t care if he’s wrong. He did that crap with the Fuji bodies too.
charles.K wrote:
FF MILC's are very prone to dust specs I have had with Sony A7r, A7s, A7II and A7rII along with my Leica M9, M240 and Monochrom and they were all prone to dust spots. I used a variety of techniques to minimize and clean the sensor. About 3 times a year I would take the bodies to a local camera shop who would clean the sensors while I waited. I also have an artic butterfly, blower and wet wipes. With the larger sensor it is open to the elements and dust can pose a problem. I used to turn my FF MILC's downwards to change the lens while I was outdoors. If I noticed dust spots I would use a strong blower and blow upwards while the body was pointed down. Most of the time this resolves the issue. If there is minute amounts of oil smearing then I would take it to my local camera repair centre to clean the sensor under the microscope....Show more →
Interesting, I don’t ever recall seeing any on my Fuji, Olympus, or Sony bodies... Not saying there wasn’t, but if there was, it wasn’t very noticeable.
With that said, My D600 had a ton and I’ve heard the D750 also had some issues with it.
For the record, I would just use sensor swabs and sensor cleaning solution to get rid of it.
I am not sure if this was already shared here but I found this video where a Nikon representative is giving a first look of what the new Eye AF for the Z system will work:
Eye AF: Z7 vs Sony A7R3 side by side test by DPReview:
I came from Sony A7R3, and if eye AF of Z6/Z7 is like in this test, then it's more than enough for me.(Much better than I expected).
I strongly believe Nikon will catch up Sony in AF in next generation of Z6/7, faster than I thought.
Images shot with a pair of Nikon z6's FTZ adapters, nikkor 24-70G and tamron 70-200 2.8 G2 ( i used the tammy because it has a closer minimum focus distance) - settings used - AFC - Dynamic AF, Continuous H+, Electronic Shutter on, d8 on, Peaking level 3, delayed focus +1, back button focus.
So the Nikon z6's worked really well 95% of the shoot, there's a couple things where the z6 had some quirks that i had to adapt to when shooting thru the cage.
1. the image freezing when shooting Continuous H+, for a sequence of bursts, where the subject is moving a ton laterally or towards me, the slight image stutter, would cause them to move out of my frame, and i wouldnt know because the viewfinder still shows they are in my field of view. For certain pros im sure this would be a deal breaker unless its addressed. Wildlife especially.
2. when the subjects moved to the far left or far right of my shooting position where the cage became very small due to the angle, the z6 struggled to AF. my d5s must have "smaller AF points" so i can sometimes shoot between those small holes to acquire focus, whereas the z6 AF points are a little larger, so i wasnt able to Auto focus past the cage itself, thats where the manual focus peaking of the camera excelled, it allowed me to hold down the back button, rotate the focus ring and manually focus with peaking in the situations where the AF couldnt work.