L1020032 by unoh7, CV 90 f/8
The coming travese under Sheep Ridge into the Sheep Lake Circ. Baaaaa. If you look at the right edge, find the highest trees, and that's where we left off, looking to proceed: L1019895-3 by unoh7, 28 cron f/11
My first thought was: yikes!!
But after a few narrow pases it began to look a bit better: L1019914 by unoh7, 28cron f/11
Finally a view of Sheep Lake: L1019912-2 by unoh7, 28 cron f/11
Look above the lake and you may spot the pass to Saphire Circ under the peak on the left near the edge of the frame
We are under an impressive granite cliff: L1019901 by unoh7, 28 cron f/11
And a look back at the traverse: L1019908-2 by unoh7, 28 cron f/11
RR Mtn is on the horizon, right frame
We make our way across some big boulder fields under Sheep Ridge: L1019922 by unoh7, SEM 21 f/13
No earthquakes please
Sheep Lake: L1019944 by unoh7, SEM 21 f/9.5
Finally the light is starting to be with me again. After the morning shots, the majority were me shooting just under a high sun--but despite that, I wanted to see how well I could do, at least to document the location.
We aren't stopping now! L1019950 by unoh7, SEM 21 f/9.5
Shooting in AutoISO & manual exposure - would anyone else like a small indication of what ISO you're at in the VF? I guess the key is simply setting a limit you're happy with, but I think it would sort of be useful. For example, I might want to shoot at f8 all day long, but if that's taking me to ISO5000 (for which I'd have no indication), f4 could work too and might be preferable. I know you get a quick indication when you turn on/off, so that is one work around.
BTW, I must say I'm very happy with the responsiveness and overall operation. No buzzing and whirling when you turn it on, in fact no sound at all. Startup time is no slower than my SLR really, pretty much instant. I've only used it once or twice of course, but just goes to show you're always better seeing first hand than reading too much into "internet complaints".
I keep mine on auto iso, with max iso value being 3200 and min. speed around 125 or 250 depending on the lens used and the surrounding conditions. I will quickly switch to manual though if I realize I will take more than one shot of the same subject.
I started out using Auto for the 1st couple of days with the Monochrom, since then it has been all Manual. Use base ISO320 most of the time. Getting better at judging the correct associated aperature. Carry with me my .9 ND so I can also shoot wide open when desired. I do wish they had a lower base ISO for the monochrome.
One thing I find interesting is when people notice I have Leica the conversation usually goes like this.
Is that a Leica?
I respond It's the Monochrom
They respond Ahhhhhhhh
The tone of there voice is excitement when they are initially guessing and enquiring it is a Leica. Almost in awe. They aren't sure since there is no red Leica on the front. Then their tone changes to one in total awe much like seeing a movie star they admire when they hear it is the Monochrom and they are just totally awestruck saying nothing else and just keeping looking in amazement. Funny I never got that type of reaction with my PanFujiCanikons. With them people usually start talking about shots they have taken or talk about the equipment they owned. The Leica is just as if it were a precious jewel to be admired from a distance and not talked about.
Oh well my planned day of shooting is out the window, I have to go for a training run today since it will be raining for the next three days. Planned on a training distance of a 1/2 marathon tomorrow but alas have to go today instead. Trip to the Ukrainian Village is off. Today is their last day till next May. At least I have some shots from a couple of weeks ago.
First time posting in this thread. Got my M240 about a month ago and loving it. I took it on a business trip to Hiroshima last month during the anniversary of the bombing and then again last week for another trip.
Looking to add more glass when the funds permit it.
@edward burningheart @airfrogusmc Interesting! Any reason why you two don't use autoISO in M mode? Do you just not like knowing what ISO it's choosing, or you want to have a specific look to an image (eg low ISO, better colours etc)? I only recently discovered it with my Sony but wouldn't want to shoot any other way now, gives me the control I like anyway.
Unfortunately as I've taped up the LCD changing ISO on the go isn't so easy (doh!). It would be nice if they could program the M button to change ISO, I have mine to "off" now.
Anyway, only very tiny things, they don't inhibit the way I want to shoot, just wondering what you all thought.
ricardovaste wrote:
@edward burningheart @airfrogusmc Interesting! Any reason why you two don't use autoISO in M mode? Do you just not like knowing what ISO it's choosing, or you want to have a specific look to an image (eg low ISO, better colours etc)? I only recently discovered it with my Sony but wouldn't want to shoot any other way now, gives me the control I like anyway.
Unfortunately as I've taped up the LCD changing ISO on the go isn't so easy (doh!). It would be nice if they could program the M button to change ISO, I have mine to "off" now.
Anyway, only very tiny things, they don't inhibit the way I want to shoot, just wondering what you all thought....Show more →
Simply because auto iso for me is just a way to make sure I get the shot quickly. It's for unplanned shots when I have no idea what the light will be like. I just take one shot and keep on moving. Manual exposure for me is a creative choice. I want to control all the factors, and I want consistency between all shots. That is why auto iso won't work for me in manual.
Hi Edward and I don't use it for precisely the same reasons. Just different ways of working but when I'm on the street and shooting very quickly (which you can see in my work is the way I usually work) I am at 800. Usually 1600 or 3200 ISO and I change my shutter speeds or aperture whatever is appropriate for the shot and I usually do it without much thought. Usually 1/500 or 1/1000 and usually f/8-f/16 and I adjust focus using the DoF scales. I have been working like this for 30 years. It is automatic. Just me in the auto mode not the camera.
airfrogusmc wrote:
Hi Edward and I don't use it for precisely the same reasons. Just different ways of working but when I'm on the street and shooting very quickly (which you can see in my work is the way I usually work) I am at 800. Usually 1600 or 3200 ISO and I change my shutter speeds or aperture whatever is appropriate for the shot and I usually do it without much thought. Usually 1/500 or 1/1000 and usually f/8-f/16 and I adjust focus using the DoF scales. I have been working like this for 30 years. It is automatic. Just me in the auto mode not the camera. ...Show more →
Hat's off to you Allen for being able to do that. It is too tiring for me to have to keep track of the exposure all the time. It also takes away from my concentration on photo opportunities. That is why I rely on auto everything for street shots.
ricardovaste wrote:
@edward burningheart @airfrogusmc Interesting! Any reason why you two don't use autoISO in M mode? Do you just not like knowing what ISO it's choosing, or you want to have a specific look to an image (eg low ISO, better colours etc)? I only recently discovered it with my Sony but wouldn't want to shoot any other way now, gives me the control I like anyway.
Unfortunately as I've taped up the LCD changing ISO on the go isn't so easy (doh!). It would be nice if they could program the M button to change ISO, I have mine to "off" now.
Anyway, only very tiny things, they don't inhibit the way I want to shoot, just wondering what you all thought....Show more →
How does it give you the control you want? Technically it doesn't give you any control. I know you can set your shutter speed to something your comfortable with, and you can set your aperture to wide open or stopped down.. But if you shoot a black wall, you're going to overexpose, if you shoot a white sky you're going to unexposed. There's no control when any one of the three basic functions are handled by the camera
Honestly, here's how I view ISO on an M camera. Indoors I automatically set it to 1600-3200 pending the location. And then I just set the max aperture and shift my shutter speed as needed.
Outdoors I set my ISO to 200 and only shift up to 400/800/1600 as it gets darker. usually then I'll use wide open and adjust my shutter speed as needed (I stop down depending on lens, and intent). Anytime I find myself going below 125 of a second in daylight (night I go down to 60th) then I just bump up the ISO one stop. And to keep it simple, and to figure out all this stuff easier, I only work in full stops with ISO and half stops with everything else (actually try to do full stops whenever I can to get a sense of how bright/dark things really are).
Hope this helps.... There is one instance where I'll use auto ISO. IF I'm running around a bright city where I want to shoot with say 5.6 from the hip with a wide angle lens, and I know I'm going in and around buildings (so into bright light, then into shade). And honestly, it's only really when I'm shooting from the hip and don't want to bring the camera up to my eye. Even then, a lot of the time it's manual for everything.
edwardkaraa wrote:
Hat's off to you Allen for being able to do that. It is too tiring for me to have to keep track of the exposure all the time. It also takes away from my concentration on photo opportunities. That is why I rely on auto everything for street shots.
Edward, if you're in BKK save for intersections, a lot of the time you're shooting under building shade, and the light is pretty much the same. I'm sure you could set your camera to ISO 200, and f/2 then vary your shutter speed from 500th to 2000th depending if you're shooting in sun or shade, and have it turn out fine. You can do 4 clicks in a split second. Saves from having to recover backlit shots, and end up giving your subjects a green tint.
adamdewilde wrote:
Edward, if you're in BKK save for intersections, a lot of the time you're shooting under building shade, and the light is pretty much the same. I'm sure you could set your camera to ISO 200, and f/2 then vary your shutter speed from 500th to 2000th depending if you're shooting in sun or shade, and have it turn out fine. You can do 4 clicks in a split second. Saves from having to recover backlit shots, and end up giving your subjects a green tint.
Thank you Adam for the advice. The problem is there are more than 2 stops difference in lighting. At iso 200, the exposure can be 1/750s at f/8 in the sun, and in the shade 1/250s at f/5.6 and under the sky train I normally need iso 1600 in order to shoot 1/125s at f/2. There are also tents everywhere that will affect the light level unpredictably. I would normally go through the mentioned light levels several times in one minute so it isn't really practical for me to keep on changing the settings as I'm walking. If I lived in Singapore or somewhere in the west, I understand that your method would be very easy to apply.
adamdewilde wrote:
How does it give you the control you want? Technically it doesn't give you any control. I know you can set your shutter speed to something your comfortable with, and you can set your aperture to wide open or stopped down.. But if you shoot a black wall, you're going to overexpose, if you shoot a white sky you're going to unexposed. There's no control when any one of the three basic functions are handled by the camera
this why i love cameras where you can shoot in manual mode with auto iso and still adjust EC. that way you get full control of aperture, shutter speed, and exposure while iso just goes as low as it can for those settings.
sebboh wrote:
this why i love cameras where you can shoot in manual mode with auto iso and still adjust EC. that way you get full control of aperture, shutter speed, and exposure while iso just goes as low as it can for those settings.
M + AutoISO + EC + AEL Spot Lock = Ultimate control & flexibility
edwardkaraa wrote:
Hat's off to you Allen for being able to do that. It is too tiring for me to have to keep track of the exposure all the time. It also takes away from my concentration on photo opportunities. That is why I rely on auto everything for street shots.
It's just second nature. A developed instinct I guess because I am not thinking I am just responding but I am not letting the camera make any decisions for me. We all find what works for us and thats all that matters.
At least I have some shots from a couple of weeks ago.
