Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
p.978 #1Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Also note that the lastest FW updated a few of the functions related to Auto-ISO...
Aug 28, 2014 at 10:13 AM
p.978 #3Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
@Edward Gary: Thanks for that, it seems it was just me being a little simple though and not knowing how to use even the simplest of cameras. I'd moved the ISO to 5000 but hadn't pressed "set", so it was just at 800 (max) from the previous user. So I was indoors, small aperture, it was just going below that to save me getting a black exposure. Problem averted! 
p.s. camera feels incredible!
p.s. camera feels incredible!
Aug 28, 2014 at 10:38 AM
p.978 #4Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Congrats Richard!
Despite the M digitals being simple cameras, some of the small details are not immediately obvious or logical. Setting the ISO on the M9 initially stumped me and forced a quick reading of the manual, which I often don't do before trying a new camera (in part to determine how intuitive it is to use).
Thanks guys for the likes!
Gary - neat shot - goes to show you just need to observe your surroundings and keep an open mind to photo opportunities. In such 'ordinary' situations it's too easy to operate on autopilot. Of course we all do it...
Charlie - love the contrast and black sky!
Joakim - Funny thing with the 90AA is I'm finding it really easy to focus, at least at nearer distances... I'm also finding the more I nitpick focus with it, the more likely I'll be off. It's when I use it more intuitively that the keeper rate seems to be better, though for all of these it was EVF use.
One more from my friends' place. Not sure what kind of flower this is...
I have noticed the lens will flare in certain backlit situations. It's starting to just above and around the top right flower. Still figuring this out.
Despite the M digitals being simple cameras, some of the small details are not immediately obvious or logical. Setting the ISO on the M9 initially stumped me and forced a quick reading of the manual, which I often don't do before trying a new camera (in part to determine how intuitive it is to use).
Thanks guys for the likes!
Gary - neat shot - goes to show you just need to observe your surroundings and keep an open mind to photo opportunities. In such 'ordinary' situations it's too easy to operate on autopilot. Of course we all do it...
Charlie - love the contrast and black sky!
Joakim - Funny thing with the 90AA is I'm finding it really easy to focus, at least at nearer distances... I'm also finding the more I nitpick focus with it, the more likely I'll be off. It's when I use it more intuitively that the keeper rate seems to be better, though for all of these it was EVF use.
One more from my friends' place. Not sure what kind of flower this is...
I have noticed the lens will flare in certain backlit situations. It's starting to just above and around the top right flower. Still figuring this out.
Aug 28, 2014 at 11:12 AM
p.978 #5Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Jochenb wrote:
Michael, nice rendering indeed! Which version of the 35 cron is that?
Jochenb, thanks It is first version of 35mm Summicron. they call it 8 element. The lens is pretty famous for its small size and fancy glass type used, and many people still think this is the best 35mm lens Leica ever made, especially in Japan and some Asia country. hence have price to come. I felt the lens is pretty expensive for what it is and doesn't deserve its reputation, but for jewelery like build and butter smooth focusing feel and compactness for a f2 lens it might worth some prime. Obviously, my view is changing the way I really like it is bluish/cold color tint and low contrast with a hint of SA WO and slightly flare due to old coating but resolution is high, this give a special look with proper PP.
The bokeh of point light are always rounded with small and elegant ball look suggest decent coma performance WO. The lens exhibit very less FC make it a very predictable lens, I feel this is an important once I need depth of field. and lens is sharp once you need it to be.(though I have to say it inferior to RX1 before f5.6, which is the reason I thought about selling before) I am able to shoot it without focus in VF if not at WO because of good tap design, for WO, before I move the camera to my eye, I can/do pre-focus based on tap position, this make focus extreme fast. I am not able to do this with either tapped 50rigid or 50lux ASPH somehow.
There are two version of this lens with goggle for M3, which bring 50mm frame line for M, or without goggle, which is about $1000 more even though it is cheaper itself at the time of introduction. I pick goggle version because of price at the time,(you can remove the goggle for A7 use) but TBH, I have to say give me the choice now I will pick goggle version definitely. For rangefinder, I way prefer being able to see out side of frame to give me choice at the time of compose. I don't realize how important it is for me during making decision and I use this all the time.
Some drawbacks about this lens: the frame error seems worse than most Leica lens I have, left side of the image less than frame line suggested. and the lens flare.
I might answer a lot than you asked but this is the only Leica thread, I will treat this as a FYI post as a short review for all people.
-----------------------------------------
relative size to m9
Great tap design
very small size
adamdewilde wrote:
Great shots, I especially like the second one.
I feel that way too (although I need a certain level of sharpness before I like a lens). It's weird, but when you start using different lenses in the same focal length, you realise very quickly how the subtle quirks can make or break an image. And it almost boarders on crazy!
My wife is like this now. Some days she makes me use the Noctilux, or the Summilux, or the Summicron.. Depending on the makeup she's wearing and the kind of shot she wants.
Adam, thanks for comment, I agree all you said based on experience of 50 and 35mm lenses I have. The love of certain tool is not just based on rendering I guess for me, also about harmonic between you and tool,(need get shot first) which you can see my reply above, especially for manual lens and camera, and also post process of raw material involved
Joakim, Edward, I appreciate your comments.
Ron - Your 90cron AA images are very impressive in terms of sharpness and Bokeh, look that flower shot Somehow, I feel tele lens seems have more flare problem than I thought it should be: My 80lux and 80-200f4 leica both have flare problem hard to deal.
Charlie - How you like focusing with 135mm lens, for high quality tele lens like this, I feel focus is going to be tough.
Gary - Enjoy your last two set. especially that two frame shot.
A 35cron image I love
I think I have posted before.
Michael, nice rendering indeed! Which version of the 35 cron is that?
Jochenb, thanks
It is first version of 35mm Summicron. they call it 8 element. The lens is pretty famous for its small size and fancy glass type used, and many people still think this is the best 35mm lens Leica ever made, especially in Japan and some Asia country. hence have price to come. I felt the lens is pretty expensive for what it is and doesn't deserve its reputation, but for jewelery like build and butter smooth focusing feel and compactness for a f2 lens it might worth some prime. Obviously, my view is changing the way I really like it is bluish/cold color tint and low contrast with a hint of SA WO and slightly flare due to old coating but resolution is high, this give a special look with proper PP. The bokeh of point light are always rounded with small and elegant ball look suggest decent coma performance WO. The lens exhibit very less FC make it a very predictable lens, I feel this is an important once I need depth of field. and lens is sharp once you need it to be.(though I have to say it inferior to RX1 before f5.6, which is the reason I thought about selling before) I am able to shoot it without focus in VF if not at WO because of good tap design, for WO, before I move the camera to my eye, I can/do pre-focus based on tap position, this make focus extreme fast. I am not able to do this with either tapped 50rigid or 50lux ASPH somehow.
There are two version of this lens with goggle for M3, which bring 50mm frame line for M, or without goggle, which is about $1000 more even though it is cheaper itself at the time of introduction. I pick goggle version because of price at the time,(you can remove the goggle for A7 use
) but TBH, I have to say give me the choice now I will pick goggle version definitely. For rangefinder, I way prefer being able to see out side of frame to give me choice at the time of compose. I don't realize how important it is for me during making decision and I use this all the time. Some drawbacks about this lens: the frame error seems worse than most Leica lens I have, left side of the image less than frame line suggested. and the lens flare.
I might answer a lot than you asked
but this is the only Leica thread, I will treat this as a FYI post as a short review for all people. -----------------------------------------
relative size to m9
Great tap design
very small size
adamdewilde wrote:
Great shots, I especially like the second one.
I feel that way too (although I need a certain level of sharpness before I like a lens). It's weird, but when you start using different lenses in the same focal length, you realise very quickly how the subtle quirks can make or break an image. And it almost boarders on crazy!
My wife is like this now. Some days she makes me use the Noctilux, or the Summilux, or the Summicron.. Depending on the makeup she's wearing and the kind of shot she wants.
Adam, thanks for comment, I agree all you said based on experience of 50 and 35mm lenses I have. The love of certain tool is not just based on rendering I guess for me, also about harmonic between you and tool,(need get shot first) which you can see my reply above, especially for manual lens and camera, and also post process of raw material involved
Joakim, Edward, I appreciate your comments.
Ron - Your 90cron AA images are very impressive in terms of sharpness and Bokeh, look that flower shot
Somehow, I feel tele lens seems have more flare problem than I thought it should be: My 80lux and 80-200f4 leica both have flare problem hard to deal.Charlie - How you like focusing with 135mm lens, for high quality tele lens like this, I feel focus is going to be tough.
Gary - Enjoy your last two set. especially that two frame shot.
A 35cron image I love
I think I have posted before.
Aug 28, 2014 at 12:41 PM
leonasj
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p.978 #6Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
late evening:
M240+35FLE
© leonasj 2014
M240+35FLE
Aug 28, 2014 at 12:47 PM
p.978 #7Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
leonasj wrote:
late evening:
Just beautiful! And at 35mm too, who needs teles for birding?
Might as well ask here... currently using a Ultron 35/1.7 but would really like to try something more "special". Initially the Biogons seemed tempting but not sure I am a big fan of the Zeiss look for this type of photography (I have the ZE 50 and 35 on my Canon and they are great for landscapes, cities etc) so been drawn towards the Summarit 35/2.5. The aperture is large enough for my needs, and I am loving what I see from the lens -- looks pretty "classic" but with its own style. Should I just spring for that or are there merits to considering e.g. an older Summicron which runs about the same or less?
late evening:
Just beautiful! And at 35mm too, who needs teles for birding?
Might as well ask here... currently using a Ultron 35/1.7 but would really like to try something more "special". Initially the Biogons seemed tempting but not sure I am a big fan of the Zeiss look for this type of photography (I have the ZE 50 and 35 on my Canon and they are great for landscapes, cities etc) so been drawn towards the Summarit 35/2.5. The aperture is large enough for my needs, and I am loving what I see from the lens -- looks pretty "classic" but with its own style. Should I just spring for that or are there merits to considering e.g. an older Summicron which runs about the same or less?
Aug 28, 2014 at 01:04 PM
p.978 #8Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Michael - thanks for that recap and the image of your son is great! He looks like he's in a land of the giants, based on the size of the leaves... As for tele lens flare... it doesn't really surprise me. I find the most flare resistant lenses are on the wider end, and the longer the lens, the worse it gets. For example, from my Leica lineup, I'd rank the order as 21, 28, 50, 90 for veiling flare resistance.
Leonas - beautiful!
pingflood - are you looking for a lens that is less perfect and therefore with greater 'character' due to various aberrations? At the other extreme you'll find most modern lenses geared towards better sharpness. I've only briefly used the 35/1.7... it seems to have a good reputation, but my impression of it was so-la-la. Kind of how I've felt about a lot of Voigtlander lenses. Many are technically good/very good, but just seem to be lacking something charming/endearing (at least for me).
If you want older with more aberrations, then yes, maybe an older Cron will be a consideration. Perhaps also the 35 Lux pre-ASPH. I have the Canon 35/2 LTM and kind of like it. Wide open there is more SA and a lower contrast quality. Stopped down to f/5.6 and it's really sharp. The Summaron lenses seem to be highly regarded. Probably fewer aberrations than the older Crons and the Canon and may just have a gentler rendering quality typical of that era.
I wish I could offer an opinion about the Summarit, but it's the one Summarit I haven't tried... It's supposed to be a good bokeh contender and I'd guess you're going to get a rich, modern, colour palette from it.
Leonas - beautiful!
pingflood - are you looking for a lens that is less perfect and therefore with greater 'character' due to various aberrations? At the other extreme you'll find most modern lenses geared towards better sharpness. I've only briefly used the 35/1.7... it seems to have a good reputation, but my impression of it was so-la-la. Kind of how I've felt about a lot of Voigtlander lenses. Many are technically good/very good, but just seem to be lacking something charming/endearing (at least for me).
If you want older with more aberrations, then yes, maybe an older Cron will be a consideration. Perhaps also the 35 Lux pre-ASPH. I have the Canon 35/2 LTM and kind of like it. Wide open there is more SA and a lower contrast quality. Stopped down to f/5.6 and it's really sharp. The Summaron lenses seem to be highly regarded. Probably fewer aberrations than the older Crons and the Canon and may just have a gentler rendering quality typical of that era.
I wish I could offer an opinion about the Summarit, but it's the one Summarit I haven't tried... It's supposed to be a good bokeh contender and I'd guess you're going to get a rich, modern, colour palette from it.
Aug 28, 2014 at 01:28 PM
p.978 #9Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Michael - I remember that picture and it is definitely one of my favorites. There almost looks to be some sort of funny T/S effect happening.
Also - does anyone have any experience with the Canon 35/1.8 ltm?
Also - does anyone have any experience with the Canon 35/1.8 ltm?
Aug 28, 2014 at 01:30 PM
p.978 #10Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
rscheffler: I am, basically, looking for sharp but not clinical-looking, if that makes any sense. I like a good sharp lens, but I want none of the harshness that many modern lenses exhibit. I guess I am looking for fine detail but slightly lower contrast. The Summarit looks to have what I want, but it's tough to know for sure since I don't know the extent to which the images I like from it have been post-processed.
On my 5dII I see the difference I want between e.g. a Zeiss ZE lens and an older Nikkor. The Nikkor is sharp but still manages to smooth things out and make them less in-your-face popping, something I perhaps mistakenly attribute to lower contrast. For instance:
On my 5dII I see the difference I want between e.g. a Zeiss ZE lens and an older Nikkor. The Nikkor is sharp but still manages to smooth things out and make them less in-your-face popping, something I perhaps mistakenly attribute to lower contrast. For instance:
Aug 28, 2014 at 01:50 PM
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p.978 #11Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
I don't know if this is the right place but these items were recently stolen from someone's home ins Amsterdam...
LEICA M9 (P upgrade) (S) S/N: 3908077
LEICA MP (.85) (S) S/N: 2983160
LEICA ELMARIT-M 1:2,8/21 mm ASPH. (Silver) S/N: 3849445
LEICA ELMARIT-M 1:2,8/24 mm ASPH. (Silver) S/N: 3872553
LEICA SUMMICRON-M 1:2/28 mm ASPH. (B) S/N: 4007584
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1,4/35 mm (B) S/N: 3281473
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1:1,4/50 mm ASPH. (Silver) S/N: 3992701
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1:1,4/50 mm (Silver) S/N: 3965097
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1:1,4/50 mm (B) S/N: 3676430
LEICA NOCTILUX-M 1:0,95/50mm ASPH. (B) S/N: 4104688
LEICA APO-SUMMICRON-M 1:2/75 mm ASPH. (B) S/N: 3999265
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1:1,4/75 mm (B) S/N: 3797842
LEICA APO-SUMMICRON-M 1:2/90 mm ASPH. (S) S/N: 3950223
LEICA VARIO-ELMARIT-R 1:2,8-4,5/28-90 mm ASPH. (B) S/N: 3970270
LEICA VARIO-APO-ELMARIT-R 1:2,8/70-180 mm (B) S/N: 3725307
LEICA M9 (P upgrade) (S) S/N: 3908077
LEICA MP (.85) (S) S/N: 2983160
LEICA ELMARIT-M 1:2,8/21 mm ASPH. (Silver) S/N: 3849445
LEICA ELMARIT-M 1:2,8/24 mm ASPH. (Silver) S/N: 3872553
LEICA SUMMICRON-M 1:2/28 mm ASPH. (B) S/N: 4007584
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1,4/35 mm (B) S/N: 3281473
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1:1,4/50 mm ASPH. (Silver) S/N: 3992701
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1:1,4/50 mm (Silver) S/N: 3965097
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1:1,4/50 mm (B) S/N: 3676430
LEICA NOCTILUX-M 1:0,95/50mm ASPH. (B) S/N: 4104688
LEICA APO-SUMMICRON-M 1:2/75 mm ASPH. (B) S/N: 3999265
LEICA SUMMILUX-M 1:1,4/75 mm (B) S/N: 3797842
LEICA APO-SUMMICRON-M 1:2/90 mm ASPH. (S) S/N: 3950223
LEICA VARIO-ELMARIT-R 1:2,8-4,5/28-90 mm ASPH. (B) S/N: 3970270
LEICA VARIO-APO-ELMARIT-R 1:2,8/70-180 mm (B) S/N: 3725307
Aug 28, 2014 at 02:07 PM
p.978 #12Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Pingflood, I like 35mm summilux v1 as well based on what I have seen so far. Though not in this thread (check Mandlar thread, Sebboh's post) and 35mm summilux ASPH pre-fle, that is great performer as well, having better Bokeh than fle version. if you don't mind size, 35mm f1.2 VC MKII is another option, I feel it meets your sharp but not clinical standard.
With saying that, I also feel Summarit is a very nice choice for size and performance if you don't mind f2.5 speed. I remember CarstenW (FM member) conduct a comparison between it and cron and ASPH pre-fle and results favor to it.
Leonasj, Nice sharp capture.
Ron, Gary, thanks for comment.
Ron, I agree with your observation about tele flare. I have the exact same feeling.
Richard, feel the pain, that is like somebody steal your half or full house in most country, value wise.
With saying that, I also feel Summarit is a very nice choice for size and performance if you don't mind f2.5 speed. I remember CarstenW (FM member) conduct a comparison between it and cron and ASPH pre-fle and results favor to it.
Leonasj, Nice sharp capture.
Ron, Gary, thanks for comment.
Ron, I agree with your observation about tele flare. I have the exact same feeling.
Richard, feel the pain, that is like somebody steal your half or full house in most country, value wise.
Aug 28, 2014 at 02:21 PM
p.978 #13Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
pingflood wrote:
rscheffler: I am, basically, looking for sharp but not clinical-looking, if that makes any sense. I like a good sharp lens, but I want none of the harshness that many modern lenses exhibit. I guess I am looking for fine detail but slightly lower contrast. The Summarit looks to have what I want, but it's tough to know for sure since I don't know the extent to which the images I like from it have been post-processed.
On my 5dII I see the difference I want between e.g. a Zeiss ZE lens and an older Nikkor. The Nikkor is sharp but...Show more →
OK, I understand what you mean. I think what you want is some residual spherical aberration when shooting at or near wide open. This is where many of Leica's lenses will address your desire (vs. Zeiss). The older glass will have more of the spherical aberration at wider apertures, also referred to as "Leica glow." For Leica's current lenses, my feeling is most of the fast glass, such as the Summilux lenses I've used, have a touch of SA wide open that takes the edge off fine details/contrast to give a smoother impression, yet retain rich colour quality. I definitely feel this way about the 50/1.4 Lux ASPH, see it in the 21 Lux and also 90AA at near distances wide open, but not so much with the 28 Cron. The most recent glass is probably moving away from this somewhat.
Like the Summarit, I have yet to try the two 35mm Lux ASPH versions. Based on comments by others, it's likely that the FLE version will give you a more clinical rendering, therefore the pre-FLE is likely the better choice for what you want without the strong glow of the pre-ASPH version, but you may run into some focus shift problems with it. I'm not sure how the Summarit will fit into this. And if the Summarit is the limit of your budget, then you're probably looking at either it, or as you surmised, an earlier version 35 Cron. This quality is what Michael has just been discussing about his Cron v1 (though these are quite expensive).
It is worth noting that the ZM 35/2 is a bit softer/glowy wide open and becomes extremely sharp at f/4, and may be one of the best M mount 35s for stopped down landscape type work.
The Voigtlander 35/1.2 could also be a candidate. It's in a similar price range to the Summarit and has a smooth rendering quality. But it is quite large for an M lens.
rscheffler: I am, basically, looking for sharp but not clinical-looking, if that makes any sense. I like a good sharp lens, but I want none of the harshness that many modern lenses exhibit. I guess I am looking for fine detail but slightly lower contrast. The Summarit looks to have what I want, but it's tough to know for sure since I don't know the extent to which the images I like from it have been post-processed.
On my 5dII I see the difference I want between e.g. a Zeiss ZE lens and an older Nikkor. The Nikkor is sharp but...Show more →
OK, I understand what you mean. I think what you want is some residual spherical aberration when shooting at or near wide open. This is where many of Leica's lenses will address your desire (vs. Zeiss). The older glass will have more of the spherical aberration at wider apertures, also referred to as "Leica glow." For Leica's current lenses, my feeling is most of the fast glass, such as the Summilux lenses I've used, have a touch of SA wide open that takes the edge off fine details/contrast to give a smoother impression, yet retain rich colour quality. I definitely feel this way about the 50/1.4 Lux ASPH, see it in the 21 Lux and also 90AA at near distances wide open, but not so much with the 28 Cron. The most recent glass is probably moving away from this somewhat.
Like the Summarit, I have yet to try the two 35mm Lux ASPH versions. Based on comments by others, it's likely that the FLE version will give you a more clinical rendering, therefore the pre-FLE is likely the better choice for what you want without the strong glow of the pre-ASPH version, but you may run into some focus shift problems with it. I'm not sure how the Summarit will fit into this. And if the Summarit is the limit of your budget, then you're probably looking at either it, or as you surmised, an earlier version 35 Cron. This quality is what Michael has just been discussing about his Cron v1 (though these are quite expensive).
It is worth noting that the ZM 35/2 is a bit softer/glowy wide open and becomes extremely sharp at f/4, and may be one of the best M mount 35s for stopped down landscape type work.
The Voigtlander 35/1.2 could also be a candidate. It's in a similar price range to the Summarit and has a smooth rendering quality. But it is quite large for an M lens.
Aug 28, 2014 at 02:59 PM
p.978 #14Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Michael: superb shot and great story about how our views on glass evolve. I will make a special post about focusing the 135s (i just got another version today)
Leonas. You really show what the FLE can do
pingflood: wonderful "monalisa" shot
Ron, great shots and TY for kind words. Black skies....try that on your monochrome
L1019368 by unoh7, cv 90 f/3.5
I always carry my CV 90/3.5 in the backcountry because....why not? It's very small and weighs little.
But, you know, how good is it really?
Let's set the scene with the 28 Cron
L1019348 by unoh7, 28 cron f/8
Well OK let's get a tad closer with the 50 cron:
L1019381 by unoh7, 50 cron f/8
OK mister 350USD voigtlander, what can you do with that?
L1019351 by unoh7, 90 CV f/6.7
full size image
That's handheld at 1000
another:
L1019353 by unoh7, CV 90 f/6.7
one last on the way down; i was testing DOF---I'd thought I shot this at f/11, but it says again 6.7.
L1019366 by unoh7, CV 90 f/6.7
Surprised me I had the big rock and details in the valley below.
Anyway, my conclusion is that performance to cost, both the CV 75 and 90 are hard to beat.
Leonas. You really show what the FLE can do
pingflood: wonderful "monalisa" shot
Ron, great shots and TY for kind words. Black skies....try that on your monochrome
L1019368 by unoh7, cv 90 f/3.5
I always carry my CV 90/3.5 in the backcountry because....why not? It's very small and weighs little.
But, you know, how good is it really?
Let's set the scene with the 28 Cron
L1019348 by unoh7, 28 cron f/8
Well OK let's get a tad closer with the 50 cron:
L1019381 by unoh7, 50 cron f/8
OK mister 350USD voigtlander, what can you do with that?
L1019351 by unoh7, 90 CV f/6.7
full size image
That's handheld at 1000
another:
L1019353 by unoh7, CV 90 f/6.7
one last on the way down; i was testing DOF---I'd thought I shot this at f/11, but it says again 6.7.
L1019366 by unoh7, CV 90 f/6.7
Surprised me I had the big rock and details in the valley below.
Anyway, my conclusion is that performance to cost, both the CV 75 and 90 are hard to beat.
Aug 28, 2014 at 07:21 PM
p.978 #15Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Beautiful work everyone!
Ron - gorgeous flower, whatever it is. Your work is always top notch.
Zhangyue - I also remember that shot and have always loved it. Very Lord of the Flies feel ... or Lost ... or Castaway.
Leonasj - VERY impressive bird shot.
Richard - thanks for posting that stolen info; what a horrible thing. That is worth a fortune. I couldn't imagine!!
Uhoh - I had the CV 75 and liked it. I just never used that focal length. Wish I was as good about changing lenses as you are. You should share your method with us! I am always fumbling around and scared about dropping stuff!
Pingflood - good luck on your search! I am not a "technical" minded person, so I cannot offer input into these things.
From tonight as the skies were lovely. M-E and 50 lux asph.
Ron - gorgeous flower, whatever it is. Your work is always top notch.
Zhangyue - I also remember that shot and have always loved it. Very Lord of the Flies feel ... or Lost ... or Castaway.
Leonasj - VERY impressive bird shot.
Richard - thanks for posting that stolen info; what a horrible thing. That is worth a fortune. I couldn't imagine!!
Uhoh - I had the CV 75 and liked it. I just never used that focal length. Wish I was as good about changing lenses as you are. You should share your method with us! I am always fumbling around and scared about dropping stuff!
Pingflood - good luck on your search! I am not a "technical" minded person, so I cannot offer input into these things.
From tonight as the skies were lovely. M-E and 50 lux asph.
Aug 28, 2014 at 07:49 PM
p.978 #17Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
rscheffler wrote:
OK, I understand what you mean. I think what you want is some residual spherical aberration when shooting at or near wide open. This is where many of Leica's lenses will address your desire (vs. Zeiss). The older glass will have more of the spherical aberration at wider apertures, also referred to as "Leica glow." For Leica's current lenses, my feeling is most of the fast glass, such as the Summilux lenses I've used, have a touch of SA wide open that takes the edge off fine details/contrast to give a smoother impression, yet retain rich colour quality. I definitely...Show more →
Thank you! I started looking around based on what you wrote and ran across this Puts paper which proved to be some interesting reading:
http://www.overgaard.dk/pdf/Leica-M-Lenses-Their-Soul-and-Secrets_en.pdf
I'll have to look at the 35/2 Biogon as well. For some reason the price here in Sweden is excellent on a new one, but I'd written it off as presumably being too Zeiss-y. Will have a closer look at the results though.
OK, I understand what you mean. I think what you want is some residual spherical aberration when shooting at or near wide open. This is where many of Leica's lenses will address your desire (vs. Zeiss). The older glass will have more of the spherical aberration at wider apertures, also referred to as "Leica glow." For Leica's current lenses, my feeling is most of the fast glass, such as the Summilux lenses I've used, have a touch of SA wide open that takes the edge off fine details/contrast to give a smoother impression, yet retain rich colour quality. I definitely...Show more →
Thank you! I started looking around based on what you wrote and ran across this Puts paper which proved to be some interesting reading:
http://www.overgaard.dk/pdf/Leica-M-Lenses-Their-Soul-and-Secrets_en.pdf
I'll have to look at the 35/2 Biogon as well. For some reason the price here in Sweden is excellent on a new one, but I'd written it off as presumably being too Zeiss-y. Will have a closer look at the results though.
Aug 29, 2014 at 12:53 AM
p.978 #18Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Charlie, Which is sharper? 28, 50 or 90
Katie, skies were indeed lovely
35cron V1 from yesterday
Katie, skies were indeed lovely
35cron V1 from yesterday
Aug 29, 2014 at 10:32 AM
p.978 #19Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
pingflood wrote:
rscheffler wrote
OK, I understand what you mean. I think what you want is some residual spherical aberration when shooting at or near wide open. This is where many of Leica's lenses will address your desire (vs. Zeiss). The older glass will have more of the spherical aberration at wider apertures, also referred to as "Leica glow." For Leica's current lenses, my feeling is most of the fast glass, such as the Summilux lenses I've used, have a touch of SA wide open that takes the edge off fine details/contrast to give a smoother impression, yet retain rich colour quality. I definitely feel this way about the 50/1.4 Lux ASPH, see it in the 21 Lux and also 90AA at near distances wide open, but not so much with the 28 Cron. The most recent glass is probably moving away from this somewhat.Like the Summarit, I have yet to try the two 35mm Lux ASPH versions. Based on comments by others, it's likely that the FLE version will give you a more clinical rendering, therefore the pre-FLE is likely the better choice for what you want without the strong glow of the pre-ASPH version, but you may run into some focus shift problems with it. I'm not sure how the Summarit will fit into this. And if the Summarit is the limit of your budget, then you're probably looking at either it, or as you surmised, an earlier version 35 Cron. This quality is what Michael has just been discussing about his Cron v1 (though these are quite expensive).
It is worth noting that the ZM 35/2 is a bit softer/glowy wide open and becomes extremely sharp at f/4, and may be one of the best M mount 35s for stopped down landscape type work.
The Voigtlander 35/1.2 could also be a candidate. It's in a similar price range to the Summarit and has a smooth rendering quality. But it is quite large for an M lens.
http://www.overgaard.dk/pdf/Leica-M-Lenses-Their-Soul-and-Secrets_en.pdf
I'll have to look at the 35/2 Biogon as well. For some reason the price here in Sweden is excellent on a new one, but I'd written it off as presumably being too Zeiss-y. Will have a closer look at the results though.
The 35 biogon isn't particularly Zeissy at all. If you want to see really Zeissy then the 35 C-biogon is the one.
Aug 29, 2014 at 10:54 AM
p.978 #20Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
@ Katie re: changing lenses.
It's a very good question, frankly, and I'm surprised there are no youtubes showing fast clean lens swaps. I've searched all the forums and so far not found any very clear suggestions.
I did just buy:
Double O-ring M Cap
I think one way is "save your caps", i.e. put caps from current lens where you can get right at them. Pocket, bag or purse. Extra glass of course should have their caps. So to switch: cap the front, remove, cap the back, drop in pocket and retrieve new lens, save caps, and mount.
Now that's not the way I've been doing it---no extra end cap usually--, so I end up with two lenses in one hand and....well you know.
The double cap could really make it easier, and if it does I will get a few, and use those.
Switching is a pain, like many tasks in life, which are worth it when you see the results in the end--mostly. But, I can understand why some M users just use one lens. You get used to it and make some really excellent shots.
@ Michael re focus 135mm
The difficulty depends on the subject and aperture, obviously. So for a landscape shot, if I tripod with my little ultrapod, and cable release, and set to f/8 infinity-----well it seems to be working pretty well with the APO. But at f/4 with closer subjects, focus is not an exact science, even when calibration is great.
In a conversation over at RFF, Roger Hicks, claimed it was really no problem with his goggled 135 elmarit. Michael, you are very familar with goggles, since your very sweet v1 35 cron has them, but I had never even seen a pair So, when , last friday, this appeared at RFF classifieds for 270USD, I could not resist
DSC00925 by unoh7, 135 Elmarit v3 circa 1976.
It came yesterday. wide open:
L1019420 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ f/2.8
There are those who claim the lens is "soft wide open":
L1019442 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ 2.8
Really?
L1019423 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ 2.8
Stop down to 5.6 or 8:
L1019509 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ f/8 ish
My buddy's wife designed these recently
L1019505 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ f/8
So what's the verdict? Well I'm very happy with this copy, though it has some light scratches on the front element, it's clean and reasonably calibrated. And sharper than I expected. What about the goggles? Well, you do get the "tunnel vision" effect, the camera thinks it's a 90, and gives you crazy apertures in exif, like "f/1", but it is a bit easier than the APO to focus.
In fact I like this lens so well, I would use it ahead of the APO at an event, or near the car. But obviously the APO is much smaller and lighter, so it will go in the backcountry with me
PS Re handling on the 740 gram 135/2.8.
With a grip, and a thumbs-up, dare I say, handling is excellent
PSS re focus and viewfinder. While focus does seem easier with the elmarit, framing is rather mysterious. Varies alot based on distance. You get the 90 frame line which takes up most of the box, but not all. Like an M8 crop. the whole box seems to line up at a certain distance, while close in, the 90 frames nearly trace the image. Those frames move left to right as you focus closer. Might be learnable
Edited on Aug 29, 2014 at 12:34 PM · View previous versions
It's a very good question, frankly, and I'm surprised there are no youtubes showing fast clean lens swaps. I've searched all the forums and so far not found any very clear suggestions.
I did just buy:
Double O-ring M Cap
I think one way is "save your caps", i.e. put caps from current lens where you can get right at them. Pocket, bag or purse. Extra glass of course should have their caps. So to switch: cap the front, remove, cap the back, drop in pocket and retrieve new lens, save caps, and mount.
Now that's not the way I've been doing it---no extra end cap usually--, so I end up with two lenses in one hand and....well you know.
The double cap could really make it easier, and if it does I will get a few, and use those.
Switching is a pain, like many tasks in life, which are worth it when you see the results in the end--mostly
. But, I can understand why some M users just use one lens. You get used to it and make some really excellent shots. @ Michael re focus 135mm
The difficulty depends on the subject and aperture, obviously. So for a landscape shot, if I tripod with my little ultrapod, and cable release, and set to f/8 infinity-----well it seems to be working pretty well with the APO. But at f/4 with closer subjects, focus is not an exact science
, even when calibration is great.In a conversation over at RFF, Roger Hicks, claimed it was really no problem with his goggled 135 elmarit. Michael, you are very familar with goggles, since your very sweet v1 35 cron has them, but I had never even seen a pair
So, when , last friday, this appeared at RFF classifieds for 270USD, I could not resist DSC00925 by unoh7, 135 Elmarit v3 circa 1976.
It came yesterday. wide open:
L1019420 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ f/2.8
There are those who claim the lens is "soft wide open":
L1019442 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ 2.8
Really?
L1019423 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ 2.8
Stop down to 5.6 or 8:
L1019509 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ f/8 ish
My buddy's wife designed these recently
L1019505 by unoh7, 135/2.8 @ f/8
So what's the verdict? Well I'm very happy with this copy, though it has some light scratches on the front element, it's clean and reasonably calibrated. And sharper than I expected. What about the goggles? Well, you do get the "tunnel vision" effect, the camera thinks it's a 90, and gives you crazy apertures in exif, like "f/1"
, but it is a bit easier than the APO to focus.In fact I like this lens so well, I would use it ahead of the APO at an event, or near the car. But obviously the APO is much smaller and lighter, so it will go in the backcountry with me
PS Re handling on the 740 gram 135/2.8.
With a grip, and a thumbs-up, dare I say, handling is excellent
PSS re focus and viewfinder. While focus does seem easier with the elmarit, framing is rather mysterious. Varies alot based on distance. You get the 90 frame line which takes up most of the box, but not all. Like an M8 crop. the whole box seems to line up at a certain distance, while close in, the 90 frames nearly trace the image. Those frames move left to right as you focus closer. Might be learnable
Edited on Aug 29, 2014 at 12:34 PM · View previous versions
Aug 29, 2014 at 11:14 AM