I recall someone mentioning stopping down their lenses when they put there camera/lens away. Does stopping down the lens "help" the lens (or aperture blades) somehow?
Alpha_Geist wrote:
I recall someone mentioning stopping down their lenses when they put there camera/lens away. Does stopping down the lens "help" the lens (or aperture blades) somehow?
Some believe it will relax the tension on the springs and avoid oil leakage on the blades. This may be particularly useful for 50+ years old lenses but you have nothing to worry about current lenses, just shoot and enjoy
edwardkaraa wrote:
Some believe it will relax the tension on the springs and avoid oil leakage on the blades. This may be particularly useful for 50+ years old lenses but you have nothing to worry about current lenses, just shoot and enjoy
TY for kinds words, Guys
Werner: I prefer Digger II cause of that mist
jemuelb: Nice shot with the most underrated camera on earth
Joshua, No 1 is pretty cool, that mannequin really makes it
Chas, re the 28 cron. This is one of those lenses which you hear lot of contradicting stories and impressions about. Part of that is it does change character as you stop down, not in a bad way, in fact at f/11 the lens is still fantastic to me, only the SEM21 and ZM18 rival it's sharpness there, at least to my impression after seeing many shots.
The flare controversy. Some will claim the lens should not flare, and if yours does, maybe it's one of a certain number with coatings that were later changed. Nobody knows which lenses were effected exactly, and there is no official confirmation at all of the issue.
All you have to do is look at the hood and you know the 28 cron will flare. Shooting under the sun mine will easily flare, and must have a hood, sometimes even my hand. Mine is 6-bit. I long ago rendered the stock hood unreliable (un predictable self disassembly), and I have a few different ones I use.
Some say the 28 cron is not that sharp, others, like Ron, find it too sharp on the 240! Perhaps the corrections on the 240 should be reworked for the lens. On the M9 the lens is to die for, like the 50 lux. Most of the funny opinions come from people who own it but don't shoot it that often.
It's the most modern 28 in design--maybe excepting the new 28 Lux--and it's a joy to read Puts waxing poetic on the achievement. It's my default lens.
Gary, I know how thrilled you must be to have your son interested in shooting with you.
It's hot in Florida! The heat index was still above 100 degrees at 7:30 PM today, but in spite of the heat, Piper and I still managed to squeeze in a run. Looking forward to cooler days ahead.
I think my Leica honeymoon period is over. I tried to heed edward's advice that hot pixels were the norm. After all LR and iPhoto appear to correct most offending pixels when the DNG's are imported. However, it kept bugging me and I tested more shots and found that ISO 1000 was the worst - anything underexposed or black would have funny pixels acting weird. This was prevalent between ISO 200 to ISO 1000, with higher ISO's "fine" though albeit noisier. If I shot in good light none of this strange sensor behaviour would occur. It's not just 1 or 2 identifiable pixels being defective, but the sensor as a whole. I've sent it to Leica Singapore to have it mapped and sadly won't have my camera for a while. Hopefully it can be fixed through mapping and isn't a bigger issue.
Next, while trying to figure out the dirty bokeh 50lux, I decided to inspect the lens in greater detail. The glass is relatively clear, barring some light marks that come with cleaning using eclipse lens solution and pec pads on the rear element. Noticed those before in other lenses rated Mint, and the solution is safe, so no issue there. But then I noticed oily aperture blades, which is most likely unrelated to the dirty bokeh. I googled a little and found the 50lux to be rather prone to this. They click fine, but the oil is visible. Between f4 to f16, there's a more scrubby sound when I click between stops. I figured that it's too little oil to worry, and I spoke to the technician who said it was quite common in Asia and warmer climates. Apparently he's seen worse, and told me not to bother sending it to Wetzlar because the issue may recur again. I read up a bit more and i came across a thread and this guy who had worse oil than I did, and apparently DAG and some other respected technicians told him not to send it in either.
Now I store my 3 lenses stopped down and upright with the lens mount facing up.
Sorry for the longer post, just a little bit down about the gear - it's been a lovely 1.5months since I've had the camera. Every time I shot it I really enjoyed it and I have some of my favourite shots taken by it. So these 2 things happening are a bit of a bummer. I'd continue shooting the get over these rather minor issues, but the camera isn't with me now.
Charlie - I love love love the 28cron. I'd say it'd be my to go lens because it gets me more keepers when shooting from the hip over the 50 and 90. It has a fair bit of pop which I didn't see in many sample images, and nice character and size. I was actually hesitant to get it because i felt it didn't have the same charm as the 35lux and 35cron when deciding between the 2 focal lengths, but no regrets here. I like the flare too, gives the lens a less sterile feel without being too horrendous. Have yet to shoot without the hood though, and have yet to shoot it stopped down beyond f2.8. I think testament to how much I like the lens is the fact the past 3 or 4 sets (or more actually, lost count) including this one are all by the 28. All from the same day of shooting.
Gary, to have my (future, if any) kids go shooting with me would be a dream. I tried to coax my younger brother to shoot with me using an old nikon D40. Worked for a day or two, but since then he hasn't followed suit.
28cron-ing from a week ago, trying to fill my M-less void. Untitled by aFrIcanSH
Shooting under the sun mine will easily flare, and must have a hood, sometimes even my hand. Mine is 6-bit. I long ago rendered the stock hood unreliable (un predictable self disassembly), and I have a few different ones I use.
