Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
p.1071 #1Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
With the MM expose to the left. If you blow the highlights there is nothing there to recover and the info is so rich in the shadows. Do not fear high ISO with this camera.
Jan 15, 2015 at 02:52 PM
p.1071 #2Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Ron, what I meant by the bell-shaped histogram was sort of saying having most light in the middle and in general and as you said this will depend on the scene of course. What I felt was that even the camera shows the histogram bunched up to left while it appeared to represent best tones to eyes. This made me wonder if the engine for histogram is not changed in the software from the M9 ( Guessing since the body is M9 for MM as I have heard). I am talking in finer details in the mathematics of the engine, may be its not needed but then it does make me feel the current histogram displaying is not representing what my eyes are seeing with regards the tonal range.
With the MM expose to the left. ....
Allen, I learnt that last night and I found that indoor at night keeping -0.75 to -1.0 exp comp gave me best tonal range. I am sure this will be different in more natural light. my understanding that indoors the light has quick fall off and thus more easy to blow the highlights compared to more reflected natural light.
With the MM expose to the left. ....
Allen, I learnt that last night and I found that indoor at night keeping -0.75 to -1.0 exp comp gave me best tonal range. I am sure this will be different in more natural light. my understanding that indoors the light has quick fall off and thus more easy to blow the highlights compared to more reflected natural light.
Jan 15, 2015 at 03:23 PM
p.1071 #3Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
airfrogusmc wrote:
With the MM expose to the left. If you blow the highlights there is nothing there to recover and the info is so rich in the shadows. Do not fear high ISO with this camera.
I agree 1000%.
Congrats Vik on the MM and welcome to the club. I do my post with Capture One then take it into PS CS6 for final rendering.
With the MM expose to the left. If you blow the highlights there is nothing there to recover and the info is so rich in the shadows. Do not fear high ISO with this camera.
I agree 1000%.
Congrats Vik on the MM and welcome to the club. I do my post with Capture One then take it into PS CS6 for final rendering.
Jan 15, 2015 at 03:57 PM
p.1071 #4Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Congrats Vik on the MM and welcome to the club. I do my post with Capture One then take it into PS CS6 for final rendering
Thanks burningheart.
I have been using CO for m240 and debated continuing to use it for MM too but than wondered if LR is better as this what I have seen most using when I was reading reviews. You are one I know now is using CO. I will try to see if I can pick one over other. for m240, I am convinced I like CO better and LR feels muddy.
Thanks burningheart.
I have been using CO for m240 and debated continuing to use it for MM too but than wondered if LR is better as this what I have seen most using when I was reading reviews. You are one I know now is using CO. I will try to see if I can pick one over other. for m240, I am convinced I like CO better and LR feels muddy.
Jan 15, 2015 at 04:04 PM
p.1071 #5Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
LR and SE came with my MM but I personally don't care for either. I far prefer the control I get with CS6. I also don't use any auto modes or exposure compensation. Just the way I prefer to work. Been working that way for a few decades. And old zone system guy now shooting street LoL go figure.
Jan 15, 2015 at 04:12 PM
p.1071 #6Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
One more snowy photo. M240 + ZM 35mm
Go for a swim. by Abram Goglanian, on Flickr
Go for a swim. by Abram Goglanian, on FlickrJan 15, 2015 at 04:55 PM
p.1071 #7Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
Thanks burningheart.
I have been using CO for m240 and debated continuing to use it for MM too but than wondered if LR is better as this what I have seen most using when I was reading reviews. You are one I know now is using CO. I will try to see if I can pick one over other. for m240, I am convinced I like CO better and LR feels muddy.
If you haven't upgrade to CO8 I would recommend it for the MM. In CO7 you could not do a selective local adjustment with a mask for MM .dng files, in CO8 you can. It comes in handy especially when shooting in a darkened room where the window appears blown out.
I agree with Air on LR. I got it free too with MM, and I am sure you get it free to but I'd rather work on my files with CO and/or PS.
I took a course awhile back that used LR it was a black and white course that we were shooting Digital color images and converting to B&W. For myself I did do some shots with the MM even though that wasn't the emphasis of the course, and I found that I liked the results better in CO and/or PS over the LR. Nothing against LR but like"AIR" stated air I prefer to stick with the methods I have been using for a few years be it color or B&W.
Earlier quote
Congrats Vik on the MM and welcome to the club. I do my post with Capture One then take it into PS CS6 for final renderingI have been using CO for m240 and debated continuing to use it for MM too but than wondered if LR is better as this what I have seen most using when I was reading reviews. You are one I know now is using CO. I will try to see if I can pick one over other. for m240, I am convinced I like CO better and LR feels muddy.
If you haven't upgrade to CO8 I would recommend it for the MM. In CO7 you could not do a selective local adjustment with a mask for MM .dng files, in CO8 you can. It comes in handy especially when shooting in a darkened room where the window appears blown out.
I agree with Air on LR. I got it free too with MM, and I am sure you get it free to but I'd rather work on my files with CO and/or PS.
I took a course awhile back that used LR it was a black and white course that we were shooting Digital color images and converting to B&W. For myself I did do some shots with the MM even though that wasn't the emphasis of the course, and I found that I liked the results better in CO and/or PS over the LR. Nothing against LR but like"AIR" stated air I prefer to stick with the methods I have been using for a few years be it color or B&W.
Jan 15, 2015 at 05:25 PM
p.1071 #8Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
AbramG, This is an amazing shot.
burningheart, Thanks for the further input on CO. I will try that. yes, I do have the CO8. BTW, I do have a question that I woudl like to find out. How do you manage the files. I dont have a desktop and I have all my file son MBP. I see my drive filling up as you can guess and I wonder if there is a way to offload the files. I tried to do it by using my NAS server but that the whole process is very slow. Do you think I should use an extra drive plugged into my MBP and then keep the JPEG on laptop and keep the raw on extra drive. Would this strategy work OK? Is there a better way?
burningheart, Thanks for the further input on CO. I will try that. yes, I do have the CO8. BTW, I do have a question that I woudl like to find out. How do you manage the files. I dont have a desktop and I have all my file son MBP. I see my drive filling up as you can guess and I wonder if there is a way to offload the files. I tried to do it by using my NAS server but that the whole process is very slow. Do you think I should use an extra drive plugged into my MBP and then keep the JPEG on laptop and keep the raw on extra drive. Would this strategy work OK? Is there a better way?
Jan 15, 2015 at 05:28 PM
p.1071 #10Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
The guy I shoot weddings for uses Capture One and his post looks great, whether it's Canon files or from the M240, which he at first didn't like so much, but now figured out a profile for it. I used C1 ages ago when I first shot with the original Canon 1D and liked the results then, though switched to Canon's free DPP, which I thought was pretty decent, other than lacking local adjustments (burning/dodging, etc.). When I got my M9, the previous owner hadn't activated the LR license and let me have it. I was also thinking about going with Aperture, but Apple's updates for new cameras were always a bit slow... So stuck with LR out of simplicity. I'm not really in the mood to flip around to various RAW converters any more. As you can see, everyone here does nice work. It's never going to be the software making an image great, it will be personal preferences and ability.
Good question about file management. There are so many ways to do this, just as there are ways to process an image.
Fastest file transfers will be local storage. Either an internal drive/SSD, if you can add another one to the MBP, or something connected via USB3 or Thunderbolt. Anything over a network will be slower, such as with a NAS. If you're running a RAID NAS, there's also the risk related to that, should it fail, the controller flakes out, or the file system corrupts. I wouldn't really recommend it as your only file storage system without a backup.
With the size of files and image collections now, duplicate external hard drives are the easiest solution. My preference in this respect is anything that works with bare drives (not in their own enclosures) and that allows easy drive swapping. It could be a USB3 dock that you simply drop a drive into, or it could be a multi-bay enclosure. My preference for bare drives is because some enclosures add another layer of complexity/translation between your data and the system, where if the enclosure were to die and you popped out the drive and put it in a dock, the contents of the drive would be illegible to the OS, requiring an identical replacement enclosure. And if the drive is a couple years old chances are, those enclosures may have changed... A bare drive in a dock or bay talks to the system exactly the same way it would directly installed in the computer.
For recent work, I copy cards onto a 500GB external SSD (it could also be internal, just in my situation, with a 2011 MacBook Air, it's kind of old and I may replace it soon, so didn't want to spend the money on an internal 'non-standard' SSD upgrade). I use an SSD because it's fast and I also take it on location, where it will be more durable than a standard HDD. Meanwhile, I immediately back up all these shoots/jobs to a regular 3.5" HDD. I do the LR edits off the SSD and in the meantime do regular backups to the HDDs. Instead of just drag and dropping files from the SSD to the HDDs, I use CarbonCopyCloner to do incremental backups of just the files that have changed or been added. IMO, it's an app worth buying.
In your case, assuming your MBP supports Thunderbolt, I'd look at something like this from OWC:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/Thunderbolt/External-Drive/OWC/ThunderBay-4-mini
You could populate it with a variety of drive types... a 500GB or 1TB SSD for your current work, which would allow the fastest file access and transfer speeds, while other drive slots could be regular HDDs for purposes such as an OS clone and slower but larger capacity HDDs for backups.
There's also a 3.5" drive version that would do the same thing, just would take up more desk space:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/Thunderbolt/External-Drive/OWC/ThunderBay-4
The benefit to 3.5" drives is simply capacity, if you have a lot of files.
A cheaper alternative to Thunderbolt would be something USB3. I ended up with this one primarily because it's the first decent and quiet 5-bay unit I found that was trayless, which makes drive swapping way easier (I have A LOT of HDDs and don't want to deal with the hassle of buying and mounting them to extra trays).
http://oyendigital.com/hard-drives/store/3R5-EB3-M.html
I use it in JBOD and not as a RAID array.
The advantage of TB enclosures is they'll be somewhat faster with SSDs, though in real world, you probably won't notice a difference. But you should be able to 'hot swap' individual drives and maybe also boot from them, if they're proper OS clones (booting will depend on the device). Multi-bay USB devices on Mac OSX are a bit of a pain in that if you eject one drive via the Finder and pull it from the enclosure, the enclosure will do a port rescan, ejecting all drives, which the OS will then freak out about... so it requires ejecting all drives every time you want to swap a drive. So far I haven't found this to be a deal breaker for my needs, but could be a pain if one or more of the drives was always in constant use.
Regarding your question about separating RAW from Jpeg: I can see where it would be handy to have all of your processed Jpegs in one location, but I think you'll want to definitely maintain your collection of RAWs in a way that at least they're also backed up, since they're your original, highest quality files that you'll want to be able to fall back to in case you lose a drive or want to reprocess images.
M240 & 28 Cron
Good question about file management. There are so many ways to do this, just as there are ways to process an image.
Fastest file transfers will be local storage. Either an internal drive/SSD, if you can add another one to the MBP, or something connected via USB3 or Thunderbolt. Anything over a network will be slower, such as with a NAS. If you're running a RAID NAS, there's also the risk related to that, should it fail, the controller flakes out, or the file system corrupts. I wouldn't really recommend it as your only file storage system without a backup.
With the size of files and image collections now, duplicate external hard drives are the easiest solution. My preference in this respect is anything that works with bare drives (not in their own enclosures) and that allows easy drive swapping. It could be a USB3 dock that you simply drop a drive into, or it could be a multi-bay enclosure. My preference for bare drives is because some enclosures add another layer of complexity/translation between your data and the system, where if the enclosure were to die and you popped out the drive and put it in a dock, the contents of the drive would be illegible to the OS, requiring an identical replacement enclosure. And if the drive is a couple years old chances are, those enclosures may have changed... A bare drive in a dock or bay talks to the system exactly the same way it would directly installed in the computer.
For recent work, I copy cards onto a 500GB external SSD (it could also be internal, just in my situation, with a 2011 MacBook Air, it's kind of old and I may replace it soon, so didn't want to spend the money on an internal 'non-standard' SSD upgrade). I use an SSD because it's fast and I also take it on location, where it will be more durable than a standard HDD. Meanwhile, I immediately back up all these shoots/jobs to a regular 3.5" HDD. I do the LR edits off the SSD and in the meantime do regular backups to the HDDs. Instead of just drag and dropping files from the SSD to the HDDs, I use CarbonCopyCloner to do incremental backups of just the files that have changed or been added. IMO, it's an app worth buying.
In your case, assuming your MBP supports Thunderbolt, I'd look at something like this from OWC:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/Thunderbolt/External-Drive/OWC/ThunderBay-4-mini
You could populate it with a variety of drive types... a 500GB or 1TB SSD for your current work, which would allow the fastest file access and transfer speeds, while other drive slots could be regular HDDs for purposes such as an OS clone and slower but larger capacity HDDs for backups.
There's also a 3.5" drive version that would do the same thing, just would take up more desk space:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/Thunderbolt/External-Drive/OWC/ThunderBay-4
The benefit to 3.5" drives is simply capacity, if you have a lot of files.
A cheaper alternative to Thunderbolt would be something USB3. I ended up with this one primarily because it's the first decent and quiet 5-bay unit I found that was trayless, which makes drive swapping way easier (I have A LOT of HDDs
and don't want to deal with the hassle of buying and mounting them to extra trays).http://oyendigital.com/hard-drives/store/3R5-EB3-M.html
I use it in JBOD and not as a RAID array.
The advantage of TB enclosures is they'll be somewhat faster with SSDs, though in real world, you probably won't notice a difference. But you should be able to 'hot swap' individual drives and maybe also boot from them, if they're proper OS clones (booting will depend on the device). Multi-bay USB devices on Mac OSX are a bit of a pain in that if you eject one drive via the Finder and pull it from the enclosure, the enclosure will do a port rescan, ejecting all drives, which the OS will then freak out about... so it requires ejecting all drives every time you want to swap a drive. So far I haven't found this to be a deal breaker for my needs, but could be a pain if one or more of the drives was always in constant use.
Regarding your question about separating RAW from Jpeg: I can see where it would be handy to have all of your processed Jpegs in one location, but I think you'll want to definitely maintain your collection of RAWs in a way that at least they're also backed up, since they're your original, highest quality files that you'll want to be able to fall back to in case you lose a drive or want to reprocess images.
M240 & 28 Cron
Jan 15, 2015 at 07:17 PM
|
p.1071 #11Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
HI All,
Beautiful images on here as always. Always impressive!
Spent yesterday evening at Nagoya Airport waiting to pickup some family members. Had plenty of time to kill, so I walked around with the M240 and CV 12mm Heliar for a couple of hours.
Cheers.
Ryan
Beautiful images on here as always. Always impressive!
Spent yesterday evening at Nagoya Airport waiting to pickup some family members. Had plenty of time to kill, so I walked around with the M240 and CV 12mm Heliar for a couple of hours.
Cheers.
Ryan
© lostinjapan 2014
© lostinjapan 2014
Jan 15, 2015 at 07:57 PM
p.1071 #12Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Ron, this is such a useful info. Thanks for taking time to write the details. I will explore option in light of this knowledge. I will likely come up with my way based on this info.
grey is the new color. Slowly enjoying processing the files and realizing how the grey are so rich with MM. Hope to shoot outside tomorrow.
35 FLE@f2, 1/60
grey is the new color. Slowly enjoying processing the files and realizing how the grey are so rich with MM. Hope to shoot outside tomorrow.
35 FLE@f2, 1/60
Jan 15, 2015 at 07:58 PM
p.1071 #13Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
My easy method:
0) Own a computer with a SSD, load LR/PS and OS X onto the solid state drive. Everything (pictures music etc) else onto external drives.
1) Take photos
2) Load from SD directly to external USB3.0 HDD or Thunderbolt (I use a card reader). Both are fast enough for 24mp camera files. *TIP - You can get SSD if you want, a fast HDD will also work well.
3) Create a backup from one drive to another, don't use the other drive, just backup the folder of files.
4) Make a new LR catalog inside the folder of image files (that are on the external drive). Load the new image files into the catalog.
5) Edit then export to external drive.
6) backup edited files on spare HDD (keep RAW files on the spare drive as well). Also copy and paste the LR catalog from the active external drive to the spare one.
7) Delete RAW files off of the active external drive (keep edited files on there, or burn to a CD then delete).
That's generally how I do it. And there are a few LR settings to get the best performance out of your computer.
As far as exporting to JPG for web. No matter what I do it looks not as good as high res files, I've not really cared as I give high res files to my clients.
NOTE* Doing it all from your computers internal HDD will bog down your system. And is also not good for the SSD.
0) Own a computer with a SSD, load LR/PS and OS X onto the solid state drive. Everything (pictures music etc) else onto external drives.
1) Take photos
2) Load from SD directly to external USB3.0 HDD or Thunderbolt (I use a card reader). Both are fast enough for 24mp camera files. *TIP - You can get SSD if you want, a fast HDD will also work well.
3) Create a backup from one drive to another, don't use the other drive, just backup the folder of files.
4) Make a new LR catalog inside the folder of image files (that are on the external drive). Load the new image files into the catalog.
5) Edit then export to external drive.
6) backup edited files on spare HDD (keep RAW files on the spare drive as well). Also copy and paste the LR catalog from the active external drive to the spare one.
7) Delete RAW files off of the active external drive (keep edited files on there, or burn to a CD then delete).
That's generally how I do it. And there are a few LR settings to get the best performance out of your computer.
As far as exporting to JPG for web. No matter what I do it looks not as good as high res files, I've not really cared as I give high res files to my clients.
NOTE* Doing it all from your computers internal HDD will bog down your system. And is also not good for the SSD.
Jan 15, 2015 at 11:50 PM
p.1071 #14Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
AbramG, This is an amazing shot.
burningheart, Thanks for the further input on CO. I will try that. yes, I do have the CO8. BTW, I do have a question that I woudl like to find out. How do you manage the files. I dont have a desktop and I have all my file son MBP. I see my drive filling up as you can guess and I wonder if there is a way to offload the files. I tried to do it by using my NAS server but that the whole process is very slow. Do you think I should...Show more →
I spent 25 years in computer support and I tend to structure things from that background. Works for me for others it means extra manual work and is a slower process. Many like to use technology to the fullest extent to automate a lot of their processes. For myself I manually do most steps but I setup my directory structures and maintain all files in a manner that fits for me.
I only keep the raw files, jpegs, tiffs, capture one catalogs on my laptop that I am currently working on. Otherwise they reside on an external USB drive.
After shooting I load the memory card(s) on my laptop. I then do a rename of all files. If I am going to add these to existing Capture One Catalog file(s) I copy the catalog(s) over to my laptop from my USB drive and then import the images to the Capture One catalog. If I am creating new catalog(s) I create it on my laptop and import the images.
Once the images are in the Capture One Catalog I go through and rate the images. Those that don't get a rating are removed from the Capture One Catalog. That way I only keep the good pictures in the Capture One Catalog and it stays smaller. Any image that didn't get a rating can always be imported to the catalog later if I want it. Note any image that is photographically bad I delete its RAW file permamently. No point keeping poor images. I also maintain many catalogs to keep them smaller in size and they contain only images related to a given theme/subject/event.
All my RAW files are then moved over to my external USB drive. Once I finish working on my images in Capture One and Photoshop I then move the catalog(s) and any .jpeg, tiffs to the USB drive.
As I say this a lot of extra work, but I like to keep my MBP with as much free disk space as possible. Having only the Operating System(Yosemite), Application programs, Windows 7 partition and only the data I keep is those things I am currently working on.
I manually mirror my external USB drives. Some occasions I will work on my Capture One catalogs directly off of my external USB drive. I have had 2 USB drives fail over the years but since I had mirrored them I always had a backup if something went wrong.
AbramG, This is an amazing shot.
burningheart, Thanks for the further input on CO. I will try that. yes, I do have the CO8. BTW, I do have a question that I woudl like to find out. How do you manage the files. I dont have a desktop and I have all my file son MBP. I see my drive filling up as you can guess and I wonder if there is a way to offload the files. I tried to do it by using my NAS server but that the whole process is very slow. Do you think I should...Show more →
I spent 25 years in computer support and I tend to structure things from that background. Works for me for others it means extra manual work and is a slower process. Many like to use technology to the fullest extent to automate a lot of their processes. For myself I manually do most steps but I setup my directory structures and maintain all files in a manner that fits for me.
I only keep the raw files, jpegs, tiffs, capture one catalogs on my laptop that I am currently working on. Otherwise they reside on an external USB drive.
After shooting I load the memory card(s) on my laptop. I then do a rename of all files. If I am going to add these to existing Capture One Catalog file(s) I copy the catalog(s) over to my laptop from my USB drive and then import the images to the Capture One catalog. If I am creating new catalog(s) I create it on my laptop and import the images.
Once the images are in the Capture One Catalog I go through and rate the images. Those that don't get a rating are removed from the Capture One Catalog. That way I only keep the good pictures in the Capture One Catalog and it stays smaller. Any image that didn't get a rating can always be imported to the catalog later if I want it. Note any image that is photographically bad I delete its RAW file permamently. No point keeping poor images. I also maintain many catalogs to keep them smaller in size and they contain only images related to a given theme/subject/event.
All my RAW files are then moved over to my external USB drive. Once I finish working on my images in Capture One and Photoshop I then move the catalog(s) and any .jpeg, tiffs to the USB drive.
As I say this a lot of extra work, but I like to keep my MBP with as much free disk space as possible. Having only the Operating System(Yosemite), Application programs, Windows 7 partition and only the data I keep is those things I am currently working on.
I manually mirror my external USB drives. Some occasions I will work on my Capture One catalogs directly off of my external USB drive. I have had 2 USB drives fail over the years but since I had mirrored them I always had a backup if something went wrong.
Jan 16, 2015 at 12:06 AM
p.1071 #15Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Listening to some great jazz last night at our local establishment, The Phoenix.
M-E, 75 Cron (f2.0, 1/90, ISO 1600)
 |
||
 |
||
|
M-E, 75 Cron (f2.0, 1/90, ISO 1600)
Jan 16, 2015 at 12:16 AM
p.1071 #16Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Something funny I noticed.
So I don't know if anyone is following the D750 flare issue. But it does look a heck of a lot like "one of" the issues I was having with my (before the fix) 50APO. I briefly tested the 50APO on a MM and M9 and it didn't create that problem (the banding flare line at the top of the frame). It created other types of problems, but not the one that resembles the D750 issue. Which is also a M240 issue (or was till the lens was fixed).
So this begs the question, was the lens "adjusted" more then Leica let on, to accommodate for the change in the M240 (it would explain the two months I went without the lens). And would also explain why I think the lens has less saturated colors, and less pop/contrast. On the flip side, why didn't the M240 affect other lenses as badly?
I just found it really strange that the body flare problems the D750 is having, look a lot like the lens flare problems the 50APO was having. Now I'm wondering what the root of the problem is.. I'm hoping that Nikon gives a very clear and truthful answer to the problem. Maybe will shed some light on the problems the early 50APO lenses had.
So I don't know if anyone is following the D750 flare issue. But it does look a heck of a lot like "one of" the issues I was having with my (before the fix) 50APO. I briefly tested the 50APO on a MM and M9 and it didn't create that problem (the banding flare line at the top of the frame). It created other types of problems, but not the one that resembles the D750 issue. Which is also a M240 issue (or was till the lens was fixed).
So this begs the question, was the lens "adjusted" more then Leica let on, to accommodate for the change in the M240 (it would explain the two months I went without the lens). And would also explain why I think the lens has less saturated colors, and less pop/contrast. On the flip side, why didn't the M240 affect other lenses as badly?
I just found it really strange that the body flare problems the D750 is having, look a lot like the lens flare problems the 50APO was having. Now I'm wondering what the root of the problem is.. I'm hoping that Nikon gives a very clear and truthful answer to the problem. Maybe will shed some light on the problems the early 50APO lenses had.
Jan 16, 2015 at 12:41 AM
p.1071 #17Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Campione D'Italia
L1021284.jpg by W.Utsch, on Flickr
Jan 16, 2015 at 05:36 AM
p.1071 #18Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
To slip or not to slip (he didn't). M9 and 28 Summicron
Jan 16, 2015 at 06:19 AM
p.1071 #19Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
I'm looking into a NAS RAID for my storage / backup needs... can't trust myself with manual backups, hope to automate that.
Few from Dubai mall, from where there's a great view of the Burj Khalifa. The Burj at 830m is currently the worlds tallest building (not for too much longer, there's a building under construction in Saudi Arabia that will be the tallest at over 1 km tall).
M240 + 35 Lux + 21 SEM - All handheld
Few from Dubai mall, from where there's a great view of the Burj Khalifa. The Burj at 830m is currently the worlds tallest building (not for too much longer, there's a building under construction in Saudi Arabia that will be the tallest at over 1 km tall).
M240 + 35 Lux + 21 SEM - All handheld
Jan 16, 2015 at 06:33 AM
