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Archive 2010Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
p.31 #1Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
Quick question:
I have the Fotodiox adapter and the 80mm1.8, and the 120mm4Macro.
Love it w/ my 5DMkII
Was looking through various listings, some say autofocus and manual, some do not.
Can we use autofocus Mamiya lenses? I have only been looking at manual ones.
Wanting a 35mm3.5N
I have the Fotodiox adapter and the 80mm1.8, and the 120mm4Macro.
Love it w/ my 5DMkII
Was looking through various listings, some say autofocus and manual, some do not.
Can we use autofocus Mamiya lenses? I have only been looking at manual ones.
Wanting a 35mm3.5N
Jul 30, 2010 at 06:46 PM
p.31 #3Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
Many if not all of the M645AF lenses don't have a manual aperture ring, and you need that. Some of them, like the M645AF A 120/4 Macro, have manual focus but no manual aperture ring, and so that would be a bad choice, see http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/539570-REG/Mamiya_210_614_Macro_120mm_f_4_Manual.html
The older manual focus + manual aperture version of the same lens would be appropriate, like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/Mamiya-120mm-f4-Macro-lens-/140433265660?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item20b27993fc (except it's kind of too expensive - you should be able to get one for under $400 in near mint condition).
The older manual focus + manual aperture version of the same lens would be appropriate, like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/Mamiya-120mm-f4-Macro-lens-/140433265660?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item20b27993fc (except it's kind of too expensive - you should be able to get one for under $400 in near mint condition).
Jul 30, 2010 at 07:23 PM
p.31 #4Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
5D and Mamiya 200APO @2.8
-Jim
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4084/4844776367_551c0ed288_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/4844770379_8e8fc30df0_b.jpg
-Jim
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4084/4844776367_551c0ed288_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/4844770379_8e8fc30df0_b.jpg
Jul 30, 2010 at 08:18 PM
p.31 #5Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
HBOC wrote:
Is the 80 1.9 THAT much better than the 80/2.8?
I didn't like the bokeh I saw in most of the 80/1.9 shots so I just bought a mint 80/2.8 N from KEH.
Happy shooting,
Yakim.
Is the 80 1.9 THAT much better than the 80/2.8?
I didn't like the bokeh I saw in most of the 80/1.9 shots so I just bought a mint 80/2.8 N from KEH.
Happy shooting,
Yakim.
Aug 01, 2010 at 01:17 AM
p.31 #6Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
jcolwell wrote:
Many if not all of the M645AF lenses don't have a manual aperture ring, and you need that. Some of them, like the M645AF A 120/4 Macro, have manual focus but no manual aperture ring, and so that would be a bad choice, see http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/539570-REG/Mamiya_210_614_Macro_120mm_f_4_Manual.html
The older manual focus + manual aperture version of the same lens would be appropriate, like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/Mamiya-120mm-f4-Macro-lens-/140433265660?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item20b27993fc (except it's kind of too expensive - you should be able to get one for under $400 in near mint condition).
No AF mount lens has a manual aperture, it's a pure-electronic mount like EF mount.
Many if not all of the M645AF lenses don't have a manual aperture ring, and you need that. Some of them, like the M645AF A 120/4 Macro, have manual focus but no manual aperture ring, and so that would be a bad choice, see http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/539570-REG/Mamiya_210_614_Macro_120mm_f_4_Manual.html
The older manual focus + manual aperture version of the same lens would be appropriate, like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/Mamiya-120mm-f4-Macro-lens-/140433265660?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item20b27993fc (except it's kind of too expensive - you should be able to get one for under $400 in near mint condition).
No AF mount lens has a manual aperture, it's a pure-electronic mount like EF mount.
Aug 01, 2010 at 07:25 AM
p.31 #7Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
5D and Mamiya 35N @3.5 and one small ext tube
-Jim
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4850927368_f923e96083_b.jpg
-Jim
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4850927368_f923e96083_b.jpg
Aug 01, 2010 at 03:07 PM
p.31 #8Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
5D and Mamiya 200APO with extension tube @2.8
-Jim
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4854720257_d779d7eb20_b.jpg
-Jim
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4854720257_d779d7eb20_b.jpg
Aug 02, 2010 at 06:06 PM
p.31 #9Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
I'm shooting a 80/1.9 N on a 5D mark II. I've been trying to shoot street with it, but it's too damn hard to hit focus (I'm pretty good on my 85/1.9 tak, and fine on my 50-58/1.4s, and best on my 105/2DC) for some reason.
In any case, WO I get ghostly SA, but at 2.8 it's all gone - not happy about it, but not unexpected. The big problem is the color fringing. Whether in focus or OOF border (though this is hard to tell with the shallow DOF), I get greens far, reds near. Big time. Stopping down helps, but even at 5.6 I see it.
I've ordered three more 645 lenses and am now looking at the APOs, but I'm a little disappointed. Is this to be expected (with either the 80/1.9N or M645 lenses in general) or do I have a dud?
In any case, WO I get ghostly SA, but at 2.8 it's all gone - not happy about it, but not unexpected. The big problem is the color fringing. Whether in focus or OOF border (though this is hard to tell with the shallow DOF), I get greens far, reds near. Big time. Stopping down helps, but even at 5.6 I see it.
I've ordered three more 645 lenses and am now looking at the APOs, but I'm a little disappointed. Is this to be expected (with either the 80/1.9N or M645 lenses in general) or do I have a dud?
Aug 03, 2010 at 04:28 PM
p.31 #11Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
No, I hadn't, but this includes shots taken with a Hoya HD UV, followed by an 72mm step up ring, followed by an Nikon AF2 filter holder, followed by a screw on B + W 82mm Kaesemann MRC Circpol. I can't say that I see a difference in color fringing between that, the UV alone, or just the lens.
I don't have the original lens hood; I will give that a try, but I can't say that I'm hopeful given some of my shooting circumstances (i.e. no major off axis source that would lead to diffuse or reflection flare). Is internal flare an issue with the 80/1.9?
Edited on Aug 03, 2010 at 06:38 PM · View previous versions
I don't have the original lens hood; I will give that a try, but I can't say that I'm hopeful given some of my shooting circumstances (i.e. no major off axis source that would lead to diffuse or reflection flare). Is internal flare an issue with the 80/1.9?
Edited on Aug 03, 2010 at 06:38 PM · View previous versions
Aug 03, 2010 at 05:47 PM
p.31 #12Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
Here is a shot that i took with my Mamiya 80mm f1.9 C @1.9 directly into the sun.I was wanting it to flare.Also i do not use filters on any of my lenses.IMO this could be causing some of your problem.Shot was on a 5D
-Jim
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4715916402_dcce614715_b.jpg
-Jim
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4059/4715916402_dcce614715_b.jpg
Aug 03, 2010 at 06:09 PM
p.31 #13Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
As I said, I've also shot it without anything in front of the lens. In fact, I've been using it since Saturday when my fotodiox arrived - Saturday and Sunday was with nothing, Monday was nothing until the afternoon when I stopped by B&H for an Hoya HD (not a 010 MRC, whoops), and today was the filter contraption listed above.
No difference was seen. In going over some shots in Lightroom, I'm not really seeing a pattern in certain cases, but it is clear that there is danger in putting backlit, dark subjects against a diffuse grey/white overcast sky. Also, I've learned to expect colored halos if I shoot WO in daylight. Incidentally, most of the shots I'm looking at right now are naked lens, with the remaining ones with the UV filter. Today's shots with the CircPol haven't been offloaded yet.
As far as my problems today, I'm only judging by the 5DII's LCD, but if it shows up there...
No difference was seen. In going over some shots in Lightroom, I'm not really seeing a pattern in certain cases, but it is clear that there is danger in putting backlit, dark subjects against a diffuse grey/white overcast sky. Also, I've learned to expect colored halos if I shoot WO in daylight. Incidentally, most of the shots I'm looking at right now are naked lens, with the remaining ones with the UV filter. Today's shots with the CircPol haven't been offloaded yet.
As far as my problems today, I'm only judging by the 5DII's LCD, but if it shows up there...
Aug 03, 2010 at 06:37 PM
p.31 #14Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
I have noticed soft halos sometimes WO w/ my 80/1.9 and 5DMkII.
I have seen it in the viewfinder, and I'm certain, I remember it in liveview.
I'm not certain as yet the conditions in which this occurs, it doesn't happen always.
And the next aperture click, it isn't there.
I don' think I have any pics of this, but now I will try to post one.
Oh, I use a B+W MRC FPro UV filter, and the Fotodiox Pro adapter.
I have seen it in the viewfinder, and I'm certain, I remember it in liveview.
I'm not certain as yet the conditions in which this occurs, it doesn't happen always.
And the next aperture click, it isn't there.
I don' think I have any pics of this, but now I will try to post one.
Oh, I use a B+W MRC FPro UV filter, and the Fotodiox Pro adapter.
Aug 03, 2010 at 07:02 PM
p.31 #15Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
Very close to my setup. only I went with a Hoya HD this time (I have a stack of FPro 010 MRCs, but also like this line from Hoya where the performance may be better). Also using an (unchipped for now) Fotodiox Pro.
I've also seen it (and the color fringing) in the viewfinder (Eg-s screen, DK-17M hack) and in Liveview. In most of these cases there was no point light source. Sometimes high contrast midday, sometimes low contrast cloudy midday.
I'll be using the 80/1.9N along with a Nikkor 58/1.4, 105/2DC, Nikon 75-150/3.5, Tak 85/1.9, and maybe more Mamiya glass if it arrives by Friday (110/2.8, 150/3.5, 145 SF, 210/4 are in the mail) in a strobist type portrait session (weren't these just called on location shoots once upon a time?).
Hopefully that will give me some reference against some lenses with some relation to the 80/1.9 in either type, design, or manufacture. Maybe a pattern will be clearer - I'll be especially curious about comparing it with the 105/2DC, which while perhaps my favorite lens ever, has moderate fringing issues at wider settings.
However, I will not be happy if severe fringing shows up then, as I've already relegated the 80/1.9N to a portrait lens role, being too long throw for street work.
I've also seen it (and the color fringing) in the viewfinder (Eg-s screen, DK-17M hack) and in Liveview. In most of these cases there was no point light source. Sometimes high contrast midday, sometimes low contrast cloudy midday.
I'll be using the 80/1.9N along with a Nikkor 58/1.4, 105/2DC, Nikon 75-150/3.5, Tak 85/1.9, and maybe more Mamiya glass if it arrives by Friday (110/2.8, 150/3.5, 145 SF, 210/4 are in the mail) in a strobist type portrait session (weren't these just called on location shoots once upon a time?).
Hopefully that will give me some reference against some lenses with some relation to the 80/1.9 in either type, design, or manufacture. Maybe a pattern will be clearer - I'll be especially curious about comparing it with the 105/2DC, which while perhaps my favorite lens ever, has moderate fringing issues at wider settings.
However, I will not be happy if severe fringing shows up then, as I've already relegated the 80/1.9N to a portrait lens role, being too long throw for street work.
Aug 03, 2010 at 08:25 PM
p.31 #16Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
Color fringing has nothing to do with flare/internal reflections, so filters couldn't possibly affect CA.
Aug 04, 2010 at 09:31 AM
p.31 #17Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
That's what I was thinking about flare; I was assuming I didn't know something.
Of course. high contrast borders are a great way to reveal CA, and I do shoot to test that (usually a black outlined traffic sign against the sun or overexposed sky). Often I can seen flare resistance and CA in a single shot.
I could, however, be convinced that a filter could introduce fringing through refraction. However, that is not the case here; the effect is seen regardless of the use of filter(s).
All of this is besides the point. Returning to my questions -
1. I am just curious to see if, in practice, others are experiencing notable fringing with an 80/1.9(N) and a 5DII; it seems at least one other person has.
2. I am also curious if this is also an issue with Mamiya or MF lenses in general (as film - the intended use of these lenses - is more tolerant of off axis light than a sensor's microlenses, conversely, this should be mitgated given the register distance of MF lenses and the center crop of the image circle).
That last one is a salient point with m4/3rds cameras and rangefinder wides; trust me- I have a 15mm Heliar M mount on the selling block because of a range of off center issues. Unfortunately, off center means about 70% of the image.
3. Following up on 2., I am looking at some of the A and APO lenses to avoid these issues (as CA is the one "defect" I absolutely cannot stand) and am curious about experiences with them, especially on a 5DII.
Of course. high contrast borders are a great way to reveal CA, and I do shoot to test that (usually a black outlined traffic sign against the sun or overexposed sky). Often I can seen flare resistance and CA in a single shot.
I could, however, be convinced that a filter could introduce fringing through refraction. However, that is not the case here; the effect is seen regardless of the use of filter(s).
All of this is besides the point. Returning to my questions -
1. I am just curious to see if, in practice, others are experiencing notable fringing with an 80/1.9(N) and a 5DII; it seems at least one other person has.
2. I am also curious if this is also an issue with Mamiya or MF lenses in general (as film - the intended use of these lenses - is more tolerant of off axis light than a sensor's microlenses, conversely, this should be mitgated given the register distance of MF lenses and the center crop of the image circle).
That last one is a salient point with m4/3rds cameras and rangefinder wides; trust me- I have a 15mm Heliar M mount on the selling block because of a range of off center issues. Unfortunately, off center means about 70% of the image.
3. Following up on 2., I am looking at some of the A and APO lenses to avoid these issues (as CA is the one "defect" I absolutely cannot stand) and am curious about experiences with them, especially on a 5DII.
Aug 04, 2010 at 10:49 AM
p.31 #18Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
I just received my 200/2.8 APO (since I also can't stand CA, especially LoCA). Will do testing tomorrow. 
Aug 04, 2010 at 02:56 PM
p.31 #19Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
Aham,
Congrats!
Here are a few with 120f4 on 5D
-Jim
Giant Swallowtail - http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4861378298_ea71807619_b.jpg
No Crop - http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4860636855_289521439f_b.jpg
Congrats!
Here are a few with 120f4 on 5D
-Jim
Giant Swallowtail - http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4861378298_ea71807619_b.jpg
No Crop - http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4123/4860636855_289521439f_b.jpg
Aug 04, 2010 at 03:00 PM
p.31 #20Mamiya(MF) on Digital Thread
Here are the situations where I saw "blooming" using the 80/f1.9
I was using the lens WO in all of the situations.
All were corrected by going to the next aperture, EXCEPT for the 3rd image, the one w/ the pine cone, it took 3, if not 4 clicks to correct.
You can see some of the halo/blooming/whatever in the 2nd image, look at the corner of the building closest to view, right side of pic.
http://cornbread.com/~buggz/IMG_6213-resized.jpg
http://cornbread.com/~buggz/IMG_6257-resized.jpg
http://cornbread.com/~buggz/IMG_6298-resized.jpg
http://cornbread.com/~buggz/IMG_6805-resized.jpg
buggz2k wrote:
I have noticed soft halos sometimes WO w/ my 80/1.9 and 5DMkII.
I have seen it in the viewfinder, and I'm certain, I remember it in liveview.
I'm not certain as yet the conditions in which this occurs, it doesn't happen always.
And the next aperture click, it isn't there.
I don' think I have any pics of this, but now I will try to post one.
Oh, I use a B+W MRC FPro UV filter, and the Fotodiox Pro adapter.
I was using the lens WO in all of the situations.
All were corrected by going to the next aperture, EXCEPT for the 3rd image, the one w/ the pine cone, it took 3, if not 4 clicks to correct.
You can see some of the halo/blooming/whatever in the 2nd image, look at the corner of the building closest to view, right side of pic.
http://cornbread.com/~buggz/IMG_6213-resized.jpg
http://cornbread.com/~buggz/IMG_6257-resized.jpg
http://cornbread.com/~buggz/IMG_6298-resized.jpg
http://cornbread.com/~buggz/IMG_6805-resized.jpg
buggz2k wrote:
I have noticed soft halos sometimes WO w/ my 80/1.9 and 5DMkII.
I have seen it in the viewfinder, and I'm certain, I remember it in liveview.
I'm not certain as yet the conditions in which this occurs, it doesn't happen always.
And the next aperture click, it isn't there.
I don' think I have any pics of this, but now I will try to post one.
Oh, I use a B+W MRC FPro UV filter, and the Fotodiox Pro adapter.
Aug 05, 2010 at 09:08 AM