PetKal wrote:
That looks very good Nick, both the equipment as well as your burgeoning technique.
I'm learning how to be more patient with it. I was there for 2 hours, sometimes standing there for a long stretch of time waiting for something to happen.
Usually, I don't have 2 hours to burn, but today it's President's day and I had the day off...oh...and more importantly my wife had to work.
That's how I managed to spend 2 hours at the local park and still had time left over to process these!
jeremy bs wrote:
But I thought when you were in Manual there was no metering mode, it was what ever you set apature Shutter and ISO
You can. But if you have ISO set in auto, then ISO will be auto while you set shutter and aperture manually. Good in many situations, but if you want to use exposure compensation, you may be SOL. Jury is still out as to a workaround.
I speak as a 7D & 5D2 user. Both have auto-ISO and no exposure compensation in M.
Tom_W wrote:
You can. But if you have ISO set in auto, then ISO will be auto while you set shutter and aperture manually. Good in many situations, but if you want to use exposure compensation, you may be SOL. Jury is still out as to a workaround.
I speak as a 7D & 5D2 user. Both have auto-ISO and no exposure compensation in M.
If you think you can stay at one shutter or aperture the workaround is to enable cfn 1-12 or 1-13, set your high/low shutter at the same setting and use auto ISO in AV or TV. That gives you manual/auto ISO with EC.
Interesting...so you could be in AV mode, but with the shutter speed limited to a high and low at the same setting...and then Auto ISO. And since you are in AV you still get EC. That could be useful, although it seems like a serious PIA to deal with if you want to adjust the shutter speed during the shoot. Thanks for the idea.
I feel your pain. The biggest regret I have about my 1d4 is using DPP to deal with the RAW files.
On the upside the NR in DPP is very impressive, even if I have to use a different work flow.
I have had better luck with DPP on my low light hi ISO shots with my Sigma 300-800 wide open. They need massive NR and DPP does a better job than any other option I have found.
Are you doing lots of NR with LR or more general RAW conversion?
No, not really a lot of NR. My issue is that I like the RAW converter & jpeg output from Lr and I know how to get what I want from the software. I'm new at DPP and I'm finding the learning curve a bit steep. However, I've been told that Lr 3.0 will be available in the first week of March so not long to wait.
Nill Toulme wrote:
I've always wondered... what do the T and the v in Tv stand for? (And of course, that's assuming the A in Av stands for Aperture, but then why should it?)
Nill
I didn't see that anyone had answered this. As I recall reading somewhere, AV = "aperture value" and TV = "time value." Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Nice shooting Nick!!! I notice your exposures seem to be right on the money.(the last shot of the seagull was a little hot though)
I see you are shooting in the manual mode. Do you feel that this is what's giving you such good detail in your highlight's?(As opposed to Av or Tv mode)
I see this in your last couple of posts!!
BTW...What settings are you using for C.Fn.III-2,4,5and 8 if you don't mind sharing.
Thanks,
Andrew
Lexoluck wrote:
Nice shooting Nick!!! I notice your exposures seem to be right on the money.(the last shot of the seagull was a little hot though)
I see you are shooting in the manual mode. Do you feel that this is what's giving you such good detail in your highlight's?(As opposed to Av or Tv mode)
I see this in your last couple of posts!!
BTW...What settings are you using for C.Fn.III-2,4,5and 8 if you don't mind sharing.
Thanks,
Andrew
Yeah, the last gull shot has blown highlights on the head. Forgot to recover than in post.
It was pretty clear that day with virtually no cloud coverage so it was pretty easy getting the exposure as close to correct as possible. Perfect condition to be in M mode. Just set it and shoot. I think that contributes to the apparent detail, but I think good detail can be more attributed to the AF system on the camera and the 200L + 2X combo shot at f7.1. I rarely if ever use Av/Tv mode in consistent lighting.
As for the CF's...
C.Fn III-2: Slowest or second slowest
C.Fn III-4: 1
C.Fn III-5: 0
C.Fn III-8: 2
which pretty much mirrors the settings I used to use in the 1DMKIII. This is what seems to yield the best results for me for BIF...from a non-birder's point of view that is!
PetKal wrote:
That's a goodie.....not too many dedicated "birders" on the N&W forum can shoot a DIF like that.
I've never paid attention to DIF before but I gotta say, I am somewhat surprised, even shocked at how fast they can fly. They seem like such mundane creatures in the water, but when they spread their wings and take off, man, can they fly! .
