Very nice Gary! What are you using for developer? The grain in your shots is quite nice. My recent roll, not sure what developer that was used (forgot to check) but made the grain very pronounced. Don't like it much...
Thanks, Kevin. I have standardized HP-5+ @ ISO 250 developed in WD2D+ for my b&w work. WD2D+ is a pyro developer that was developed by John Wimberly and marketed by Photographers' Formulary. I usually buy it through FreestylePhoto.biz.
Gary Sommer wrote:
Thanks, Kevin. I have standardized HP-5+ @ ISO 250 developed in WD2D+ for my b&w work. WD2D+ is a pyro developer that was developed by John Wimberly and marketed by Photographers' Formulary. I usually buy it through FreestylePhoto.biz.
Thanks for that. So, if I am understanding properly, you are over exposing the film, then using the pyro developer? Are you tweaking the files in post or is this how the negatives are coming out?
Peter Figen wrote:
I keep finding shots I don't even remember taking, so they're new again to me. Here's Jeff Porcaro drummer for Toto and one of the most prolific session drummers ever. Can't believe I actually shot him on Velvia. Jeez. I'm an idiot.
Sorry for the late response but very nice work! Wasn't Porcaro a part of Steely Dan at one point?
Kevin, I rate the film at 250, set the shadows at zone III, and under develop in pyro. To scan, you must set the black and white points well within the range of 0-255. This results in a very flat output to PS. Then the levels tool is used to return the contrast. A very small amount of unsharp mask finishes it up.
Gary,
That 1st image/2nd set, of river is almost a mirror image of a scene I took in Yosemite.
Your's has a much nicer tonal range.
I like how the Pyro souped shots came out. I need to look into that.
I have been sticking to exposing & processing "normal".
Time to crack open Ansel's book!
I know, I was drooling over a Mamya 7, but realized I could barely afford just a body, let alone an appetite for lenses.
The Pentax w/lens was pretty cheap for the condition. Need a few more lenses but they too are a bargain.
I had an RZ67 a while back. This Pentax is almost as heavy.
It has it's quirks but if you can tame them, great images are possible
I first saw an article in a photo mag in Vietnam, '69 of this camera introduced.
The model I have is of '89 vintage.
Just ran a waste/dummy roll through to check out film advance, shutter
The focus screen is not my fave, but I managed to adapt a Canon eye piece mag to work which helps alot.
Time load up some 120 & go out shooting!!
Gary, just noticed you shot that series with Pentax 67!
Dan
Thats a good looking new camera, Dan, and it has my favorite lens. If the Mamiya lenses have anything over Pentax, its very little. Add a waist level finder and you have a nice setup.
BTW I made several detachments to Viet Nam in '70 and '71, got out Dec.'71
Gary,
The only thing obvious to me between the Pentax & Mamiya is the shutters.
With Mamiya leaf shutters & the strange dual cable release for MLU, close to zero vibration.
But have read a few posts about what is needed. Maybe you have some suggestions too
The only other thing I have a concern about is frame spacing due to film advance problems.
I saw several postings about this issue. I have just run a roll through mine & will get it back soon, so hopefully my Pentax doesn't have this problem.
Thanks
Dan
BTW, I was there in 69, coming home in 70. Got my 1st SLR there, a Topcon RE Super
Speaking of the Canonet, does anyone have any service documentation or link to get foam kits and proper batteries? I have mine still (my first camera, it was bought new by my grandmother) and want to press it back into service.
Being an engineer, I imagine some setup where a light source on one side of the shutter, a sensor (photo cell) on the other & the circuit to convert that output into a pulse that is measured for duration. I'm sure camera repair shops have something that accomplishes this function.
I would like to have something like this to check out my LF & MF gear!
Dan, I have heard the stories that some shutter speeds are not usable, But, I have not experienced any problems. I think it depends how you use your camera. I use mine on a tripod, with the waist level finder. I usually lock up the mirror, then fire the shutter with a release cable. I use whatever speed I need. This series was shot at about 1/2 second if I remember correctly. When I use my Bronica SQA, I don't use the MLU, just the cable release. I don't think there is any difference in the pictures regarding the shutter. If you use flash, the leaf shutter is an advantage.
Have fun with your new camera, hope to see photos soon
Gary
best camera is the one you have with you. These were all just grab shots. Love the L35AF. It has such a great lens.
Very nice.
I shoot a lot of Fuji C200 and get really good results with it. Funny thing is the claims of some that it is a poor film, and then they post incorrectly exposed images as proof!
I don't really think there is a difference between c200 and superia 200 but some argue otherwise. I find c200 a great film, wonderful with greens and blues. I used to hate Fuji film with a passion but found out that was because my Epson flatbed interpreted the negative conversion poorly. My pakon reads the dx coding and has built in presets related to most c41 films (those in production pre2006) and tends to really shine with consumer films (it was a minilab scanner after all). As a result, I get to see what Fuji color negs are really about. The best thing about c200 is it is dirt cheap! I probably have 30+ rolls sitting around that need to be shot of this emulsion.
trying to learn to develop film, this time used a Lomo Sprocket Rocket, my scanner cannot handle the wider taller image and gosh knows why it is soo grainy, but trying is fun!
Jon B, sure would like to know story behind little blue toy and rock "sculpture"
