Post your recent film shots!
p.1419 #1Post your recent film shots!
Perhaps, I just need a little more patience when including the sprocket holes. Takes a lot more work and perhaps I'll find a good workflow. These are better than what I first got after NLP conversion. Has anyone else scanned to include sprocket holes and if so, any tips to share?
Jan 26, 2025 at 04:13 PM
p.1419 #2Post your recent film shots!
rji2goleez wrote:
Perhaps, I just need a little more patience when including the sprocket holes. Takes a lot more work and perhaps I'll find a good workflow. These are better than what I first got after NLP conversion. Has anyone else scanned to include sprocket holes and if so, any tips to share?
I've scanned sprocket hole panos from my Pentax 67, but I have a 35mm mask for them (I also stitched). The NLP conversion will be better if you exclude the sprocket holes from the image analysis, i.e. more 'Border Buffer' in the Convert settings.
I had intermittent issues with film flatness near the edges and I never liked the edge barcode that most films have. Arista EDU Ultra 400 and Kentmere Pan 400 were a couple that didn't have the barcode, so I gravitated to those.
These days I much prefer the X-Pan mask for my P67. I haven't tried using the 35mm adapters on my GSW690II.
Edited on Jan 26, 2025 at 05:48 PM · View previous versions
Perhaps, I just need a little more patience when including the sprocket holes. Takes a lot more work and perhaps I'll find a good workflow. These are better than what I first got after NLP conversion. Has anyone else scanned to include sprocket holes and if so, any tips to share?
I've scanned sprocket hole panos from my Pentax 67, but I have a 35mm mask for them (I also stitched). The NLP conversion will be better if you exclude the sprocket holes from the image analysis, i.e. more 'Border Buffer' in the Convert settings.
I had intermittent issues with film flatness near the edges and I never liked the edge barcode that most films have. Arista EDU Ultra 400 and Kentmere Pan 400 were a couple that didn't have the barcode, so I gravitated to those.
These days I much prefer the X-Pan mask for my P67. I haven't tried using the 35mm adapters on my GSW690II.
Edited on Jan 26, 2025 at 05:48 PM · View previous versions
Jan 26, 2025 at 04:55 PM
p.1419 #3Post your recent film shots!
OregonSun wrote:
The NLP conversion will be better if you exclude the sprocket holes from the image analysis, i.e. more 'Border-Buffer' in the Convert settings.
I will certainly give that a try, thanks!
The NLP conversion will be better if you exclude the sprocket holes from the image analysis, i.e. more 'Border-Buffer' in the Convert settings.
I will certainly give that a try, thanks!
Jan 26, 2025 at 05:08 PM
p.1419 #4Post your recent film shots!
Yup, that's the trick. 10% Border Buffer in NLP gives a much better result. Thank you @OregonSun
Jan 26, 2025 at 05:25 PM
p.1419 #8Post your recent film shots!
Expired Fujipress 800
Leica MP
CV Nokton 35mm 1.4 II
Leica MP
CV Nokton 35mm 1.4 II
Jan 26, 2025 at 08:00 PM
p.1419 #9Post your recent film shots!
rji2goleez wrote:
Ferrania P30
ID-11What lens?Zeiss Contax 50/1.7
That's the sharpest lens I own. (I've only used it on a Canon 5Div.)
OregonSun wrote
rji2goleez wrote
Contax RTS IIFerrania P30
ID-11
That's the sharpest lens I own. (I've only used it on a Canon 5Div.)
Jan 26, 2025 at 08:03 PM
p.1419 #10Post your recent film shots!
jay w wrote:
Ferrania P30
ID-11What lens?Zeiss Contax 50/1.7That's the sharpest lens I own. (I've only used it on a Canon 5Div.)
I have the Contax 28/2.8 which is also very nice.
rji2goleez wrote
OregonSun wrote
rji2goleez wrote
Contax RTS IIFerrania P30
ID-11
I have the Contax 28/2.8 which is also very nice.
Jan 26, 2025 at 08:11 PM
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p.1419 #12Post your recent film shots!
Activatedfx wrote:
Holga 120N + TMax 100 developed in Df96. Scanned with Sony A7II + vintage Tamron SP 90mm f/2.5 Macro (52BB) using a Lomo "DigitaLiza" film holder and light box.
I'm not super happy with how everything came out, but will chalk it up to 1st roll learning/growing pains! I converted the negatives by opening the RAW scan in Photoshop, invert using the inverted curve slider method, crop and hit "Auto Levels". Teeny bit of dust removal, but there wasn't much. That's it. (I wanted to show the images with no extra PP.)
My main question is why I'm getting a "reversed" vignette??...Show more →
I get that reverse vignette if my negs are too thin i.e. underexposed a scene significantly.
Holga 120N + TMax 100 developed in Df96. Scanned with Sony A7II + vintage Tamron SP 90mm f/2.5 Macro (52BB) using a Lomo "DigitaLiza" film holder and light box.
I'm not super happy with how everything came out, but will chalk it up to 1st roll learning/growing pains! I converted the negatives by opening the RAW scan in Photoshop, invert using the inverted curve slider method, crop and hit "Auto Levels". Teeny bit of dust removal, but there wasn't much. That's it. (I wanted to show the images with no extra PP.)
My main question is why I'm getting a "reversed" vignette??...Show more →
I get that reverse vignette if my negs are too thin i.e. underexposed a scene significantly.
Jan 26, 2025 at 09:30 PM
p.1419 #13Post your recent film shots!
madNbad wrote:
Not wanting to disappoint Huss, I headed over to Multnomah Village and asked passing dog owners if they would mind if I took a picture of their pooch. I could have easily done the same thing by just stepping out the front door since most days there is a parade of dog walkers headed to the parks that's a block away.
M4-2, 35 1.4 Nokton Classic SC V2, TMax 100 @ ISO 50, Rodinal 1:50
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287832380_fc342093da_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54286520677_a7faeb55e0_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287406076_0a31f78028_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287643399_ef4d9dc7f6_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287647068_57b3cacd6e_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287643844_c64015719e_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54286521747_070118e9b1_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287643979_9ec2862628_b.jpg
I was chatting with one of the owners and he mentioned he had just acquired a MP with a 35 Ultron. I told him to check out...Show more →
This may be the single greatest post on FM, ever.
Not wanting to disappoint Huss, I headed over to Multnomah Village and asked passing dog owners if they would mind if I took a picture of their pooch. I could have easily done the same thing by just stepping out the front door since most days there is a parade of dog walkers headed to the parks that's a block away.
M4-2, 35 1.4 Nokton Classic SC V2, TMax 100 @ ISO 50, Rodinal 1:50
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287832380_fc342093da_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54286520677_a7faeb55e0_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287406076_0a31f78028_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287643399_ef4d9dc7f6_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287647068_57b3cacd6e_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287643844_c64015719e_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54286521747_070118e9b1_b.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54287643979_9ec2862628_b.jpg
I was chatting with one of the owners and he mentioned he had just acquired a MP with a 35 Ultron. I told him to check out...Show more →
This may be the single greatest post on FM, ever.
Jan 26, 2025 at 09:31 PM
p.1419 #14Post your recent film shots!
More TexPan.
Fuji GW690 III
Ferrania Orto
Ilford ID-11
Fuji GW690 III
Ferrania Orto
Ilford ID-11
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 © Bob Israel |
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Jan 27, 2025 at 07:55 AM
p.1419 #15Post your recent film shots!
Zeiss Contax 50/1.7
That's the sharpest lens I own. (I've only used it on a Canon 5Div.)
I have the Contax 28/2.8 which is also very nice.
I also have the 28, 2.8. It has a fair amount of vignetting, but it's a bit sharper than the Nikon 28, 2.8 in the corners.
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1515001/
(Links are dead.) Apparently I killed the quote attributions too.
Jan 27, 2025 at 08:09 AM
p.1419 #16Post your recent film shots!
oops, wrong forum,
deleted
Edited on Jan 27, 2025 at 10:09 AM · View previous versions
deleted
Edited on Jan 27, 2025 at 10:09 AM · View previous versions
Jan 27, 2025 at 08:52 AM
p.1419 #17Post your recent film shots!
Yeah. That makes sense. The negatives were pretty thin. I think maybe shooting 100 ASA is too slow for the Holga, even in fairly bright sun. Seems like you shoot 200 with the 'Olga. Might need to try a faster film.
Desmolicious wrote:
I'm not super happy with how everything came out, but will chalk it up to 1st roll learning/growing pains! I converted the negatives by opening the RAW scan in Photoshop, invert using the inverted curve slider method, crop and hit "Auto Levels". Teeny bit of dust removal, but there wasn't much. That's it. (I wanted to show the images with no extra PP.)
My main question is why I'm getting a "reversed" vignette?? It's lighter, not darker. Light leaks overtaking the vignetting?
The missed focus is because, well, sometimes I forgot to set focus. I mean, you gotta take the lens cap off. Choose sunny or cloudy exposure. Set a focus guesstimate. Frame through a finder that is no better than a coke bottle. Gently push the shutter. Then remember to wind to the next frame... So much to think about!!! haha
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289734965_d00d39594b_o.jpgDSC07292 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54288424827_d08e350ebc_o.jpgDSC07297 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289736235_9cde783937_o.jpgDSC07298 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289545254_830b1fdd2e_o.jpgDSC07301 by John Alexander, on FlickrI get that reverse vignette if my negs are too thin i.e. underexposed a scene significantly.
Desmolicious wrote:
Activatedfx wrote
Holga 120N + TMax 100 developed in Df96. Scanned with Sony A7II + vintage Tamron SP 90mm f/2.5 Macro (52BB) using a Lomo "DigitaLiza" film holder and light box.I'm not super happy with how everything came out, but will chalk it up to 1st roll learning/growing pains! I converted the negatives by opening the RAW scan in Photoshop, invert using the inverted curve slider method, crop and hit "Auto Levels". Teeny bit of dust removal, but there wasn't much. That's it. (I wanted to show the images with no extra PP.)
My main question is why I'm getting a "reversed" vignette?? It's lighter, not darker. Light leaks overtaking the vignetting?
The missed focus is because, well, sometimes I forgot to set focus. I mean, you gotta take the lens cap off. Choose sunny or cloudy exposure. Set a focus guesstimate. Frame through a finder that is no better than a coke bottle. Gently push the shutter. Then remember to wind to the next frame... So much to think about!!! haha
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289734965_d00d39594b_o.jpgDSC07292 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54288424827_d08e350ebc_o.jpgDSC07297 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289736235_9cde783937_o.jpgDSC07298 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289545254_830b1fdd2e_o.jpgDSC07301 by John Alexander, on Flickr
Jan 27, 2025 at 09:02 AM
p.1419 #18Post your recent film shots!
Wildflowers at 9000'.
Nikon F3P / CV 58f1.4/ProImage100
Nikon F3P / CV 58f1.4/ProImage100
Jan 27, 2025 at 09:30 AM
p.1419 #19Post your recent film shots!
Activatedfx wrote:
Yeah. That makes sense. The negatives were pretty thin. I think maybe shooting 100 ASA is too slow for the Holga, even in fairly bright sun. Seems like you shoot 200 with the 'Olga. Might need to try a faster film.
I'm not super happy with how everything came out, but will chalk it up to 1st roll learning/growing pains! I converted the negatives by opening the RAW scan in Photoshop, invert using the inverted curve slider method, crop and hit "Auto Levels". Teeny bit of dust removal, but there wasn't much. That's it. (I wanted to show the images with no extra PP.)
My main question is why I'm getting a "reversed" vignette?? It's lighter, not darker. Light leaks overtaking the vignetting?
The missed focus is because, well, sometimes I forgot to set focus. I mean, you gotta take the lens cap off. Choose sunny or cloudy exposure. Set a focus guesstimate. Frame through a finder that is no better than a coke bottle. Gently push the shutter. Then remember to wind to the next frame... So much to think about!!! haha
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289734965_d00d39594b_o.jpgDSC07292 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54288424827_d08e350ebc_o.jpgDSC07297 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289736235_9cde783937_o.jpgDSC07298 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289545254_830b1fdd2e_o.jpgDSC07301 by John Alexander, on FlickrI get that reverse vignette if my negs are too thin i.e. underexposed a scene significantly.
My recent b&w shots from the ‘Olga were on Arista 200 which is basically an iso 100 film. So with it unless the sun is blazing I use the f8 setting.
Do you think that perhaps you may have underdeveloped the film? DF96 is all about the right temp/time combo.
Yeah. That makes sense. The negatives were pretty thin. I think maybe shooting 100 ASA is too slow for the Holga, even in fairly bright sun. Seems like you shoot 200 with the 'Olga. Might need to try a faster film.
Desmolicious wrote
Activatedfx wrote
Holga 120N + TMax 100 developed in Df96. Scanned with Sony A7II + vintage Tamron SP 90mm f/2.5 Macro (52BB) using a Lomo "DigitaLiza" film holder and light box.I'm not super happy with how everything came out, but will chalk it up to 1st roll learning/growing pains! I converted the negatives by opening the RAW scan in Photoshop, invert using the inverted curve slider method, crop and hit "Auto Levels". Teeny bit of dust removal, but there wasn't much. That's it. (I wanted to show the images with no extra PP.)
My main question is why I'm getting a "reversed" vignette?? It's lighter, not darker. Light leaks overtaking the vignetting?
The missed focus is because, well, sometimes I forgot to set focus. I mean, you gotta take the lens cap off. Choose sunny or cloudy exposure. Set a focus guesstimate. Frame through a finder that is no better than a coke bottle. Gently push the shutter. Then remember to wind to the next frame... So much to think about!!! haha
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289734965_d00d39594b_o.jpgDSC07292 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54288424827_d08e350ebc_o.jpgDSC07297 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289736235_9cde783937_o.jpgDSC07298 by John Alexander, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54289545254_830b1fdd2e_o.jpgDSC07301 by John Alexander, on Flickr
My recent b&w shots from the ‘Olga were on Arista 200 which is basically an iso 100 film. So with it unless the sun is blazing I use the f8 setting.
Do you think that perhaps you may have underdeveloped the film? DF96 is all about the right temp/time combo.
Jan 27, 2025 at 11:22 AM
p.1419 #20Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Do you think that perhaps you may have underdeveloped the film? DF96 is all about the right temp/time combo.
Df96 temp was right around 70º and I used the minimal inversion method for 12 minutes (6min x 2 for TMax).
There was still a slight purple hue to the negatives, so that def could be it!
Doubling the developing time for TMax may have something to do with it. I'll add another minute or two next time.
Why am I shooting film again?
Do you think that perhaps you may have underdeveloped the film? DF96 is all about the right temp/time combo.
Df96 temp was right around 70º and I used the minimal inversion method for 12 minutes (6min x 2 for TMax).
There was still a slight purple hue to the negatives, so that def could be it!
Doubling the developing time for TMax may have something to do with it. I'll add another minute or two next time.
Why am I shooting film again?
Jan 27, 2025 at 11:33 AM