theHUN wrote:
Roll 202: Washi "Y" post developing. If it's not obvious, I ignored all instructions, loaded it up in a Jobo, and developed using continuous agitation.
First roll of film thru a brand new Canon T90. I almost bought one on FM a while back but chickened out. I told the seller I didn't want to start investing in another whole brand and generation of cameras and lenses. Then I of course became obsessed with them because the T90 was my first camera. I used it at photo school in 1986.
I bought a $25 Vivitar zoom lens locally that is not very sharp, impossible to focus due to an extremely short focus throw, and middling aperture. I got a few decent shots from it on a roll of Tri-X developed in fresh XTOL.
Here are the first few shots.
My favorite of the roll, if a little out of focus.
There is a new mural in Multnomah Village, those pictures will be coming soon. These are from when I finished the roll in the 50 Jahre M4 and decided to stop by home and pick up the M4-2 that was loaded with the same film. These were the last two rolls of 35mm B&W that isn't Tri-X and I was eager to finish them. A little too eager. I learned that if you are using similar cameras just because you set the correct speed on one, it is necessary to make sure you set the correct speed on the other. The roll from the M4 looks great. The roll from the M4-2 is thin and way under exposed. The meter readings were set for 1/60th and after I pulled the negatives out of the tank, I checked the settings on the M4-2 and the dial was set right where I had set it on the previous session out with it, 1/250th.
Maybe there is something about those built in meters.
Here are a few I was able to salvage.
M4-2, Zeiss 28 2.8 Biogon, #15 filter, Ilford 517 Cine film @ ISO 50, FPP-76 1:1
New mural in Multnomah Village! the artist is still working on it but I wen't out early before cars started parking in front of it.
M4 50 Jahre, a combination of a Zeiss 28 2.8 Biogon and a Voigtlander 35 1.4 Nokton Classic SC V2, #15 yellow filter, Ilford 517 Cine film @ ISO 50, FPP-76
Roll 202: 203 FE + 100 mm f/3.5, Washi Y, rotary developed with Rodinal in a Jobo tank. Not too bad given that I did all the things I was told to not do.
icarus_ wrote:
Lovely pics! What speed of XX and dilution of HC-110 are you using? I'm about to start shooting this exact combo, was thinking EI 400 and dilution B since it's the classic.
Shot it at ISO 250 and developed with standard dilution 'B' or 1:31 dilution of stock HC-110. 6 minute development time with agitation every 30s. Pretty standard process. I like this film as well as the Kodak version.
theHUN wrote:
Roll 202: 203 FE + 100 mm f/3.5, Washi Y, rotary developed with Rodinal in a Jobo tank. Not too bad given that I did all the things I was told to not do.
theHUN wrote:
Roll 202: 203 FE + 100 mm f/3.5, Washi Y, rotary developed with Rodinal in a Jobo tank. Not too bad given that I did all the things I was told to not do.
theHUN wrote:
Roll 202: 203 FE + 100 mm f/3.5, Washi Y, rotary developed with Rodinal in a Jobo tank. Not too bad given that I did all the things I was told to not do.
I installed a Bright-screen focusing screen into my Mamiya C3 a while ago. I loaded it with Kentmere 200 and let it simmer a few weeks. I wanted to test the new screen, but I didn't want slow film to confuse the results with camera shake on top of my bad eyes. First, the Bright-screen is much better than the OEM focusing screen, and second Kentmere 200 is really an excellent film. 11 out of 12 were in focus, and the one out of focus was an accidental misfire.
theHUN wrote:
Roll 202: 203 FE + 100 mm f/3.5, Washi Y, rotary developed with Rodinal in a Jobo tank. Not too bad given that I did all the things I was told to not do.
Not sure what I'm looking at, but it's frickin' amazing. Apparently, color science, resolution, and noise suppression are overrated.
