Oldwino wrote:
You generally lose about a stop with Rodinal.
Best HP5 + Rodinal combo I've tried is 1+75 at 14 minutes. (at 400)
That was my expectation too, and it is consistent with both Acros and FP4 giving me half box speed (at 1+75, 15 min). But HP5 in Rodinal 1+60, 20 min, actually gave me ISO400.
OregonSun wrote:
Seeing all the big Fuji images posted lately has me itching to take out my GSW690II again.
I was recently on the fence about selling it and cashing in on the increase in price since I bought it 5 years ago (paid $500 with 16 on the counter), but I've decided to keep it for now. I don't shoot it much, but nothing else I have matches it for very long exposures with ND filters. Rangefinder allows framing and composition with filters on and 'T' speed means you don't even need a shutter release.
Here's one from the last time I had it out about a year ago, around 15 minutes on Acros II.
bjhurley wrote:
Canon P, Voigtländer Color-Skopar 35/2.5 LTM, Fomapan 100 (at EI 50). This is the first roll of film I've developed myself since about 1971; the tech at the lab where I bought my equipment said it would be like riding a bicycle, it would all come back to me, but she was wrong...it was a stressful experience but it all worked out in the end.
Congratulations! In 2018, I developed my own film for the first time since 1976 and have learned so much since. The biggest advantage now is the instant read thermometer. Loading the tank and laying out your workflow will get easier. Which developer did you use?
madNbad wrote:
Congratulations! In 2018, I developed my own film for the first time since 1976 and have learned so much since. The biggest advantage now is the instant read thermometer. Loading the tank and laying out your workflow will get easier. Which developer did you use?
I used Ilfosol 3 since I had a sample pack; I developed at 1+9 for 4.5 minutes. My goal for Foma 100 (and 400) is to do semi-stand in Rodinal, as I really like the images I've seen with that approach, especially for Foma 100. But first I have to get my hands on some Rodinal. Here in Canada it's often sold as Blazinal, same formula, although it (as well as Rodinal) are often out of stock. Apparently Rodinal was originally meant to be used at 18 degrees C not 20, and the reports I've seen from users online indicate that it makes a big difference, particularly with respect to grain (with larger grain at 20C). That's good for me since my basement (where I'll be developing film) is 14-15 degrees C all year round. Upstairs it can get really warm in summer. I'll probably put the tank in a water bath in a picnic cooler and let the thermal inertia of water maintain roughly the same temp for semi-stand development.
I don't plan to do C-41 and if I shoot anything important in B&W I'll probably still bring it to the lab until I have more confidence in myself, but it's a start!
One of my big lessons was to print out the instructions and to use an actual standalone timer. I used my phone for the timer and the screen kept going to sleep; waking it was a bit of a chore wearing rubber gloves. Same for the instructions; I wrote them out step by step and had them on a tablet but it kept falling asleep just when I needed to refer to the list for the next step.
I have suggested it many times but if you are going to use a liquid developer, get an oral syringe from a local pharmacy. It makes getting just the right amount of developer a lot easier.
lifeandmylens wrote:
A dozen or so recent shots from the past few days. Nikon F6 + 28/1.4AFD, 58/1.2AIS, 300/2.8D. 250D, 200T & 500T. Hope everyone is safe!
Delicious rendering! I used to shoot with Pentax 67 and have had one in my eBay cart for awhile trying to decide if I want to return. I am craving me some Velvia chromes, but I may also try Portra if I get the MF cam (I have Portra 800 in my FM2 now).
theHUN wrote:
That was my expectation too, and it is consistent with both Acros and FP4 giving me half box speed (at 1+75, 15 min). But HP5 in Rodinal 1+60, 20 min, actually gave me ISO400. https://geza.zenfolio.com/img/s/v-10/p604621648-5.jpg
Ah, I'm going to have to try your dilution/time. I've struggled to get "decent" contrast from HP5, it's usually too flat for me, and the 1+75 dilution is working well for me. (This was a recommendation from Popular Photography magazine in 1979). The other good results I've gotten from HP5 have been in Diafine, but at 800.
What sort of agitation are you doing? I've found gentle to be key with Rodinal.
Oldwino wrote:
Ah, I'm going to have to try your dilution/time. I've struggled to get "decent" contrast from HP5, it's usually too flat for me, and the 1+75 dilution is working well for me. (This was a recommendation from Popular Photography magazine in 1979). The other good results I've gotten from HP5 have been in Diafine, but at 800.
What sort of agitation are you doing? I've found gentle to be key with Rodinal.
I'm not quite sure what @theHUN will recommend but a suggestion from another forum has yielded good results:
Initially, 30 seconds of continuous, very gentle agitation followed by 3 gentle inversions every minute.
It really helped to reduce the grain and nice even tones across the negative.
Ross Martin wrote:
Thank you! This is a Heidelberg Tango drum scan from what was then called West Coast Imaging, they cost $50 each for 200mb 16-bit at that time.
Definitely worth it. I did some research on the drum scans, and it's amazing to learn they can go up to 5k dpi for 4x5 with files as large as 2GB--absolutely a beast for digitizing film.
Oldwino wrote:
What sort of agitation are you doing?
I used to do 4 gentle inversions (8-10 seconds) at the start of each minute plus a firm tap as I put the tank down again to dislodge bubbles. But I have been seeing some defects at the film borders (see: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/water-spotting-on-film-edges.210908/) which are consistent with bubbles, so I am moving back to using a Simma sine wave roller to see if this resolves the issue. So far I have only recharacterized the speed/contrast of Acros and FP4. HP5 and a test roll are next. Fingers crossed the issue gets resolved.
theHUN wrote:
I used to do 4 gentle inversions (8-10 seconds) at the start of each minute plus a firm tap as I put the tank down again to dislodge bubbles. But I have been seeing some defects at the film borders (see: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/water-spotting-on-film-edges.210908/) which are consistent with bubbles, so I am moving back to using a Simma sine wave roller to see if this resolves the issue. So far I have only recharacterized the speed/contrast of Acros and FP4. HP5 and a test roll are next. Fingers crossed the issue gets resolved.
I haven't seen anyone here using the Ars-Imago Lab Box. I have two, one for 35mm and the other for 120. I love being able to load it without a changing bag or dark room. I've been successful with B&W and C-41 (and even ECN-2). For B&W, I'm still working out the agitation but current practice is to rotate the reel with the crank 5 times, rock the lab box side to side once and then tap twice each 30 seconds. Some emulsions still come out with more grain than I hoped but I'll keep trying. Been using Ilfotec DD-x and recently ID-11. I prefer the latter for finer grain results with low ISO films.
Ross Martin wrote:
Delicious rendering! I used to shoot with Pentax 67 and have had one in my eBay cart for awhile trying to decide if I want to return. I am craving me some Velvia chromes, but I may also try Portra if I get the MF cam (I have Portra 800 in my FM2 now).
Do itttt! Most of the 67's lenses are still surprisingly inexpensive, so it strikes me as a great 120 system to buy into right now. I've not shot any slide film in mine, but I have some 6x6 slides and they're awesome to look at on a light pad. Probably nothing like looking at 4x5 or larger, though!
OffTrail wrote:
Do itttt! Most of the 67's lenses are still surprisingly inexpensive, so it strikes me as a great 120 system to buy into right now. I've not shot any slide film in mine, but I have some 6x6 slides and they're awesome to look at on a light pad. Probably nothing like looking at 4x5 or larger, though!
Thanks for the encouragement I considered adding 4x5 back in but honestly it’s too much hassle and aggravation for how I shoot now. The P67 is just much faster/easier to use in the field, especially due to roll film and being able to cost effectively bracket when shooting Velvia.
Ross Martin wrote:
Thanks for the encouragement I considered adding 4x5 back in but honestly it’s too much hassle and aggravation for how I shoot now. The P67 is just much faster/easier to use in the field, especially due to roll film and being able to cost effectively bracket when shooting Velvia.
Love my 67! It was the first cam I got when I started shooting film again 10 years ago. Lately I've been using it with a 35mm Xpan adapter, which is really fun.
I considered adding 4x5 back in but honestly it’s too much hassle and aggravation for how I shoot now. The P67 is just much faster/easier to use in the field, especially due to roll film and being able to cost effectively bracket when shooting Velvia.