CorruptedSanit wrote:
I stripped 3 of the screws on my ts-e 24 L while trying to reorient it.
Prolly gonna send it to Canon for "proper" orienting. I dont know if it was just my copy or what, but the screws on mine were drilling in tiiiiiiight.
Me too! The screws were really, really tight and the one I did get off looked like it had loctite on it.
picnic wrote:
Thanks for this Jon. I tried my 1.4x on the 5D with 45 and also on the 10D (thus giving me a 100mm FOV--and it was quite nice). Its certainly a consideration now.
Also--I looked at your gallery--very nice--and it appears we're maybe 'Southern neighbors' (I'm in western NC). The Chattanooga shots were familiar to me as we spent a longish weekend over there for the first this Spring (half of which was very grey and rainy but still great--could become one of my favorite southern cities).
Thanks for the kind words - I've neglected my site and am deperately trying to get back to it and organize it better.
I've been itching to get me a 45 for awhile now - but I need a better tele too... *sigh*
I'm a military brat so I've travelled all over - and I love it here. An hour or two to a wide variety of scenery and this area is become more of an "artsy" haven. Drop me a line next time y'all are in town!
Regards,
Jon
Egor wrote:
Hi Jon,
I use the 45tse for panoramas and small product shots.
You said that your pano was 3 shots (shift-left 8mm, middle, and shift-right 8mm). Is there any advantage to doing the middle unshifted frame? It seems to me that you get the same pano with just 2 frames: Left 8mm and Right 8mm, the middle is just overlap. Am I wrong? Just curious
I've always heard that it stiches better and keeps the quality high as there isn't as much spherical remapping going on in the middle. Of course that could be hearsay. ;-) Maybe someday I'll have to experiment more... Right now I'm busy trying to come up with something workable for the exposure compensation I can remember in the field.
Regards,
Jon
I had the 24 and 45 and sold them to buy a 35mm FD TS lens that was modified to fit an EOS with infinity focus. There are a few of them knocking about and they are a bit sharper then the 24 and maybe even the 45. I think I use the 90 and 35 about equally and love them both. The 90mm is really sharp and contrasty.
90mm + 1.4x, this was a stiched image, but it was 7 images taken in portrait mode and stitched (rotated though, not shifted). Outrageously sharp even as a 16x52 print. http://i.pbase.com/v3/63/551663/2/50769351.aspenpan.jpg
So let me ask you guys this, would a more "intellingent" stiching software such as Panotools for example, be able to achieve better results than those that are just assuming a spherical pano was taken or would it still have similar results ?
reason I ask, is that I find the panotools interface so fast and accurate compared to trying to layer two shots in PS, granted that PS works fine if everything is PERFECT
I had Canon switch my old 24 TS-E (I've since sold it to another FM'er) because I didn't want to "screw up" the lens. (pun intended) They did it for free. Of course I work 5 minutes from the Irvine Canon service center so it was easy.
Wow! This is one of the most useful threads EVER on FM.com!
I currently have a 20D and MC Hartblei 80mm f2.8 Super Rotator and will be getting the 5D and 24mm TS-E within a week or so. These shots are exciting and inspirational!
Now I'm wondering about my selection of the 24mm for use on the 5D. If I get the 45mm and plan on shifting and stitching, is the resulting field of view more than that of the 24mm?
The plan is to really step up my interior photography work, but I wonder if I'd be better served by the 45mm and shifting. I bet shifting the 24mm on a 5D is pretty darned wide... maybe even unusable.
Can anyone here who has done interior photography comment on the usefulness of 24mm? Is it better to get the 45mm and plan on shifting to get both a larger file and increased FOV?
How about calculations? On a full frame camera, what do you end up with in terms of equivalent FOV when you shift the 24mm on the short dimension?
How many of you find that if you shift over 7mm that you begin getting significant vignetting? I am curious as this has seriously limited my ability to do flat stitching (ie. the Outbackphoto method) in the way I intended to use the lens. I When I do a full 11mm shift with my 24mm TS-E, I am not seeing the optical performance in my images that I have seen in some of the images here. So are people shifting 7mm or 11mm? I am using a 1Dmk2, so those with 1.6x multipliers may not see this as badly. Just curious...
Thinking back on it, I never shifted the 90mm that much. I use the tilt feature on that lens a lot for depth of field control, and add a little bit of shift to recenter the image. I will have to test that tonight.
The screws were really, really tight and the one I did get off looked like it had loctite on it. 