picnic wrote:
Paul,
Jack Flesher recommends using a jewelers #00 Phillipshead instead of a hardware type that is chromed--the more usual type I guess. He says that using the jewelers screwdriver you won't strip the screws. Curious what you used as I"m getting ready to order the #00 from Micro-tools as per his recommendation http://www.outbackphoto.com/workflow/wf_42/essay.html
It was actually based on this exact Outbackphoto article that I decided to do the modification myself, and I ordered the #00 from Microtools. It's certainly better than any alternative, but it completely gnarled beyond repair 3 of the 4 screws, which again are made from brass about as solid as soft cheese.
If I were you I'd see if they have a #00 philips-head screwdriver with a flat head rather than a pointed head. You'd have more purchase on the head of the screw that way.
You can also see if they have a kit with several different instruments.
Perhaps you'll have better luck. If so I'd recommend replacing the screws with hardier versions from a hardware store. This will let you reverse the conversion if you desire.
I've actually got three setups at the moment. In addition to the Canon 90 TS-E, I've got the Hartblei and also just received an adapter for Hasselblad MF lenses a few days ago. I'm going to sell one or two but haven't made up my mind yet -- they all have different strengths and weaknesses. Leading candidate at the moment is to pick up a local Hasselblad 100mm I've been offered to go with my 50mm and sell both the Canon and the Hartblei.
I posted a little mini-review of the Hasselblad setup on the alternative format forum on thursday :https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/423889. I was going to post some comments on the Hartblei as well but wanted to try the non-shifting adapter first.
Another lens to look for used is the Oly 35mm PC lens. By all accounts it's one of the sharpest PC lenses and goes for something around $500 used. The Oly's shift in two directions at once but do not tilt. From what I read the Oly competes very well with anything in this focal length and is sharper than the Nikkor and especially the Canon 24.
Since all the PC or TS lenses are manual focus there's no reason to avoid other lens makes. While the Canon's auto aperture keeps me from forgetting to stop down, I don't find it as much of a time saver since the only reliable exposure mode is manual and there is so much other fiddly work to do for a shot. Also though the Canon reports aperture and focal length in the EXIF it does not record tilt or shift amounts so for critical work or the learning phase a notebook is handy for any lens.
I posted about my 90mm tse on another forum and someone was kind enough to suggest that I ask here. I dont know that I am seeing the sharpness that I expected out of this lens. I am especially looking for sharp shots between 2.8 and 4. Anyone have any examples or suggestions that can help me determine if I should be concerned? I am not sure if it is my vision when I am focusing, that may be the problem, as I have had some success. I would like to be able to use this lens for portraits as well, so it is important to me to have access to fast apertures. The 90mm at 2.8 seems to fall quite short of my 50mm 1.4, which I suppose makes sense. Anyone here do portrait work with the 90mm? Thanks.
Doug Morgan wrote:
Didn't someone make an adapter to use medium format (mf) glass on DSLRs with "shifting"? I seem to recall reading about moving smaller APS-c sensor camera around in the much larger image cirlcle of the mf lens.
The 90mm at 2.8 seems to fall quite short of my 50mm 1.4, which I suppose makes sense.
This doesn't sound right. The 90mm should be noticeably sharper. By the charts, its one of Canon's sharpest. Are you sure its a lens issue and not a focus issue?
EDIT. Oops, I see you do mention possible focussing problems. What body are you using?
BTW I don't own this. I rented one to study a bit, but manual focus on a 1.6 crop camera adds a whole nother layer of complexity to learning this lens.
You might also find this page helpful as it shows what is possible for adapters between different systems: http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm
For the above if a camera brand body's register is less than that for a lens brand register distance than an adapter may be possible without optical elements. Just because it's possible doesn't mean that one is available at reasonable cost however.
So far I'm having a few problems with the Ukranian P6 adapter but the Mirex Hasselblad works pretty well.
statik- wrote:
I posted about my 90mm tse on another forum and someone was kind enough to suggest that I ask here. I dont know that I am seeing the sharpness that I expected out of this lens. I am especially looking for sharp shots between 2.8 and 4. Anyone have any examples or suggestions that can help me determine if I should be concerned? I am not sure if it is my vision when I am focusing, that may be the problem, as I have had some success. I would like to be able to use this lens for portraits as well, so it is important to me to have access to fast apertures. The 90mm at 2.8 seems to fall quite short of my 50mm 1.4, which I suppose makes sense. Anyone here do portrait work with the 90mm? Thanks....Show more →
Without an angle finder your F2.8 tests are probably little more than vision tests. I shot a simple sequence for you and even WITH the angle finder and a full frame viewfinder f2.8 is only as good as the focuser.
With this sort of lens I think the f2.8 is provided mostly to make focus easier compared to a slower maximum aperture.
Here's a set of centre crops of a US bill (don't seem to take Canadian currency around here) at f2.8 through F8. Never seen photoshop and only typical processing in C1. Note that there are two sets of shots and I focused once for each set (2nd set looks better at ISO 50).
picnic wrote:
I'm contemplating a 2x converter for my 45 to increase shift--and the FL to 90mm. I know the IQ will be degraded but
Suprisingly the 2X does not degrade my 24 too much at all - and geeze-louise - what a shift range!!!
This was taken with my 24 and a 2X. Crappy nasty day thus sort of bland but you can see the shift range. This is a 3 frame stitch using 8mm shift left, center, then right.
Regards,
Jon
This is a recent photo using the TS-E 24 to shift horizontally to make a panorama. Except I used the camera in portrait - the net result is a "normal" aspect but quite a few more pixels.
Regards,
Jon
DrPablo wrote:
f I were you I'd see if they have a #00 philips-head screwdriver with a flat head rather than a pointed head. You'd have more purchase on the head of the screw that way.
Ahhhh and therein lies the answer! The "pointy" head is not a phillips - it's a reed&prince and will be the fastest way to ruin a phillips on the planet as the slope of the bit does not match the screw properly and the point will not allow it to seat. A phillips has a flat end and the bit is sloped more.
Proper tool for the job! Most screwdrivers sold to repair glasses are reed & prince.
Regards,
Jon
Without an angle finder your F2.8 tests are probably little more than vision tests. I shot a simple sequence for you and even WITH the angle finder and a full frame viewfinder f2.8 is only as good as the focuser.
With this sort of lens I think the f2.8 is provided mostly to make focus easier compared to a slower maximum aperture.
Here's a set of centre crops of a US bill (don't seem to take Canadian currency around here) at f2.8 through F8. Never seen photoshop and only typical processing in C1. Note that there are two sets of shots and I focused once for each set (2nd set looks better at ISO 50).
Thank you so much. This gives me a basis to compare my lens. I think mine is likely fine, and it is just a case of misfocusing many times. When I bought the lens, it was rotated 90 degrees (Not the axis, just the regular lens rotation. ) It made me worry that my soft results are possibly a soft lens that someone returned . Does it normally come rotated to the side in the box? I dont know. Thanks again so much. I suspect at a first look that my lens is similar. I will try the same test.
It still seems softer than my 50 1.4, but my 50 is very sharp. Those are the only two lenses I have on Canon thus far. Focusing is on a 1D so not too bad, but I think my vision is not perfect.
BubbaJon wrote:
Suprisingly the 2X does not degrade my 24 too much at all - and geeze-louise - what a shift range!!!
This was taken with my 24 and a 2X. Crappy nasty day thus sort of bland but you can see the shift range. This is a 3 frame stitch using 8mm shift left, center, then right.
Regards,
Jon
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Thanks for this Jon. I tried my 1.4x on the 5D with 45 and also on the 10D (thus giving me a 100mm FOV--and it was quite nice). Its certainly a consideration now.
Also--I looked at your gallery--very nice--and it appears we're maybe 'Southern neighbors' (I'm in western NC). The Chattanooga shots were familiar to me as we spent a longish weekend over there for the first this Spring (half of which was very grey and rainy but still great--could become one of my favorite southern cities).
BubbaJon wrote:
Ahhhh and therein lies the answer! The "pointy" head is not a phillips - it's a reed&prince and will be the fastest way to ruin a phillips on the planet as the slope of the bit does not match the screw properly and the point will not allow it to seat. A phillips has a flat end and the bit is sloped more.
Proper tool for the job! Most screwdrivers sold to repair glasses are reed & prince.
Regards,
Jon
Well, this makes me feel better. Have you reoriented the 24 or kept it perpendicular?. This evening as I was doing an experimental handheld vertical pano in our library it seemed that shooting panos vertically might be better with them perpendicular (and I do like the vertical shifted panos because of the more 'normal' aspect). I think I'll just leave mine alone until I spend more time with the lens and see if I feel constrained with the default setup.
Have you reoriented the 24 or kept it perpendicular?
I reoriented it and I prefer it parallel.
You essentially have two different lenses with the different orientations. It´s easier to do funky Scheimpflug depth of field things with them perpendicular, but if you´re doing landscape photography and you want rise and fall (i.e. upwards and downward shift) with sharpness from the near foreground to the background then you´ll want to tilt in the same direction that you shift.
I stripped 3 of the screws on my ts-e 24 L while trying to reorient it.
Prolly gonna send it to Canon for "proper" orienting. I dont know if it was just my copy or what, but the screws on mine were drilling in tiiiiiiight.
CorruptedSanit wrote:
I stripped 3 of the screws on my ts-e 24 L while trying to reorient it.
Prolly gonna send it to Canon for "proper" orienting. I dont know if it was just my copy or what, but the screws on mine were drilling in tiiiiiiight.
CS---what tool did you use? I'm still pretty unsure of what I'll do--altho' I really would like the option of switching. May just order the screwdrivers from Micro-Tools and see if I--or my much more mechanically minded husband--can do it without stripping.
BubbaJon wrote:
Suprisingly the 2X does not degrade my 24 too much at all - and geeze-louise - what a shift range!!!
This was taken with my 24 and a 2X. Crappy nasty day thus sort of bland but you can see the shift range. This is a 3 frame stitch using 8mm shift left, center, then right.
Regards,
Jon
Hi Jon,
I use the 45tse for panoramas and small product shots.
You said that your pano was 3 shots (shift-left 8mm, middle, and shift-right 8mm). Is there any advantage to doing the middle unshifted frame? It seems to me that you get the same pano with just 2 frames: Left 8mm and Right 8mm, the middle is just overlap. Am I wrong? Just curious
Here is also the Hartblei 35mm and on the same site you can find the MF version that Doug bought. I ordered the 35mm superrotator which is not shown on the page but you can deal directly with them by phone (recommended). However, Michael was in the Ukraine while my order was in limbo--and I'm not sure what happened--but they could give me no information on delivery and I really wanted a TS sooner rather than later so cancelled and ordered the Canon 45 TS-E. http://www.kievcamera.com/product.php?ID=165
