So I did it... I've been content with my 45 TS, but I got excited after seeing Fernando's 24 TS shots -- mine will be here tomorrow! So much for saving money, heh.
StevenPA wrote:
I only read to page 18, so forgive me if this question has been asked and answered already.
The pano shots I would imagine are from a tripod, but how about some of the other shots? Is handholding possible at all with TS-e lenses? And if so, how difficult is it to manipulate the plane of focus?
Steven, I'm relatively new to TS lenses though been reading about them for well over a year. I have shot on tripod, but most of what I've shot in the first few weeks with the 45 has been handheld out of necessity--including several flatstitch panos (only the first 3 shot horizontal and a 2 shot vertical are on my site). If you are steady you can do shift without much problem to correct convergence--if you are careful. Then---I find myself carrying the 45 instead of my 50 and using it as a 'normal' mf lens. Using a tripod will mean better control of course--but you aren't limited to that. And--for 'creative' blur, handholding works fine. I still like a tripod---but I run into a number of situations where I can't use one---and the 45 is still my lens of choice. I suspect when I get my 24 that these will be the lenses I use more than any.
I haven't heard anything good about using FD lenses on EOS bodies. You're better off getting an older PC-Nikkor lens and an adapter. They work perfectly on EOS bodies.
I got my 24mm TS-E last night and had a few minutes to play around. It's very nice and looks to be a great deal of fun. With that any borrowing my friends 85mm PC-Nikkor (an awesome lens by the way) I'm in business.
Gonna try some panos (using my 3D photography slide rail) as soon as I have a chance.
VaRiX wrote:
Ok.. just a update. I placed my order this morning for:
Canon 5D
Canon 24mm TS-E L
Really Right Stuff L bracket for 5D
2 x 4Gb Hoodman Pro CF Cards (fastest cards rated at RobGalbraith)
Canon Ee-D Grid screen
... and my card is SMOKING. It's Christmas in July!!
Varix:
I was really impressed with the couple of images of flowers you put on this thread - not the type of photo I'm typically drawn to, yet I found these very compelling and kept looking! Nice work!
So, I'm curious - unless I got my wires crossed in these 23 pages, I think you shot those with the 80mm Hartblei. If that is the case, why did you select the 24mm Canon over the 35mm Hartblei? Just curious as I'm debating what I might purchase (also for the 5D).
Hearing your decision factors would be most appreciated!!
SWMorales wrote:
Would anyone recomend buying an old FD TS-e and using it on a dSLR with the fd-eos addapter?
Not with the fd-eos adapter you can buy.
You can get them modified (permanently)to take an EOS adapter and focus at infinity. I have the 35mm FD TS lens and it's a keeper. I posted some images higher up in the thread. Someone contacted me about this lens and told me independantly that SK Grimes can do the work. I bought mine from an FMer who had 4 converted (don't know who did the work though).
EPSI, my main reason for going with the 24mm TS-E is for architectural interiors. I've done that kind of work in the past, but it was years ago on a 30D and crap lenses. Now I have a nice 5D and all L glass and want to give it renewed interest. Hartblei doesn't have anything wide enough to be useful for tight interior spaces.
I'll probably end up getting the 45mm TS-E as well for medium-normal shooting. To be honest, I haven't even mounted the 80mm Hartblei on the 5D yet. Even though the Hartblei has more controls and flexibility, the past 2 days working with the TS-E have shown me how much better the control system is.
Kites4... I'm really trying to rack my brain now... I took those photos a long time ago before my 10D was converted to infrared-only. I believe it was only the 12mm tube as 80mm on a 1.59 crop body makes it about 127mm. I know it wasn't the 25mm tube.
I am assuming that tilting a very small amount increases the perceived depth of field while tilting dramatically results in the selective focus effect where the center of the frame is in focus and both edges are clearly out of focus. Is this basically true?
Passerby, you're correct. If you're trying to align the plane of focus to an object at an acute angle to the camera, dramatically tilting _could_ actually make it sharper. Usually, however, big tilts are reserved for creative selective focus situations.
On another note...
I did a test an hour or so ago with my new 24mm TS-E and 17-40L at 24mm. The subject was my living room. One shot with the TS-E and 10mm of shift shows how a scene looks when corrected for converging verticals (shoot parallel to ground and shift for composition). The other shot I angled the camera and lens down with the 17-40L at 24mm and the same hyperfocal distance and aperture as the TS-E. The difference is dramatic. I should post the images here and on CanonWiki tomorrow.
passerby wrote:
I am assuming that tilting a very small amount increases the perceived depth of field while tilting dramatically results in the selective focus effect where the center of the frame is in focus and both edges are clearly out of focus. Is this basically true?
No, the amount of tilt depends on how much change you want for the ordinary focal plane. To get the selective focus effect, you perform a "reverse tilt", i.e. tilt to the opposite direction that you would need in order to increase the depth of field.
I have side-by-side comparisons between the 24mm TS-E at 10mm of shift (to achieve the desired composition) and the 17-40L at 24mm and angled down for the same composition.
Both shots were taken at the same settings: ISO 100, f16, Hyperfocal distance at 6'. The TS-E seems a bit sharper, even with both at f16.
I have a feeling this "Tilt Shift Lens Techniques" page is getting a bit large. I might need to split each separate technique onto their own dedicated pages. Thoughts?
