Does having OSS off or on affect image quality? Always see people saying different things. The manual says to turn OSS off at shutter speed 1/1600 or higher. I usually leave OSS on always but today i experimented with OSS off and really couldn't tell any difference, but having 2x TC might matter more.
All these are with OSS off.
pdog109 wrote:
Does having OSS off or on affect image quality? Always see people saying different things. The manual says to turn OSS off at shutter speed 1/1600 or higher. I usually leave OSS on always but today i experimented with OSS off and really couldn't tell any difference, but having 2x TC might matter more.
There is no real consensus, which is simply because it is so hard to verify. May take: for BIF or any kind of action (excluding strict panning and mode 2) it often does not matter as long as your shutter speed is high, but sometimes it does matter and than it is much better to have it off. The reason is simple enough: the camera may try to compensate for movements of the lens that are due to tracking bird movement and really should not be compensated against. On the other hand OSS seems to stop trying to compensate if there is too much (or too quick?) movement. If you try this with slower shutter speeds, where all the effects are easier to diagnose, you'll find that for slow panning the lens will pulse between movement compensation and catching up to the overall lens direction. If that happens it really does not help when shooting BIF.
One real world case I can recall (shooting A1 & 600f4) was a bird circling right in front of me. The majority of shots had movement blur or were OOF altogether, even though in the specific case the angular movement of the bird was fairly easy to track. Analyzing the shots later showed that the movement blur apparently corresponded to the camera trying to freeze the lens direction, which also caused following shots to loose focus entirely. Luckily some of the shots were still fine and two of those happen to be among my all time favorites.
pdog109 wrote: nmerc_photos wroteBrooks Lodge with the 300GM as my only lens. Should've used it bare more, but ohwell.Great shots! And i think you made the right choice though, shooting 300 bare near those big bears, aww hell no put the 2x TC and shoot from far away.
Haha. The bears at Katmai are habituated and don't see people as food, so they have no problem coming veeeerrryyy close to you.
It would've been nice to be at 300 bare for those times, as well as just to capture more "environmental portraits".
I really dig the shots where I was just super far back and got some of the lakes, rivers, backgrounds.
The new 100-400 f4.5 is THE perfect Katmai lens. Maybe next year!
I already have the 400 f/2.8 and 600 f/4, came here for someone to convince me I need the 300. Im counting on you all to help push me off the ledge!!
Absolutely love my 400 its my sports workhorse but its a just a tad bit long for a few sports and Sonys lack of a 100-300 f/2.8 has me considering this lens. It's a lot cheaper than buying an R1 and the 100-300 just for 1 lens.
I shoot sports for a living so I justify the costs if I can find enough use for it. Thoughts?
Legndz wrote:
I already have the 400 f/2.8 and 600 f/4, came here for someone to convince me I need the 300. Im counting on you all to help push me off the ledge!!
Absolutely love my 400 its my sports workhorse but its a just a tad bit long for a few sports and Sonys lack of a 100-300 f/2.8 has me considering this lens. It's a lot cheaper than buying an R1 and the 100-300 just for 1 lens.
I shoot sports for a living so I justify the costs if I can find enough use for it. Thoughts?