I use a Gossen Variosix F2 in incident mode for my cameras with no/crappy meters. I check shadow and direct light periodically, then adjust somewhere in between based on subject, composition, film stock, etc. If light isn't changing, I don't end up metering very often.
I've shot enough with my Pentax 67 with the match needle metering prism that I'm familiar with it's quirks and just adjust accordingly. It just takes an average of the whole frame.
My EOS 3 is a special case. The metering is strongly biased to the focus point, even when it's not in spot metering linked to af point mode. I often use that bias in conjunction with back button eye control af point selection and half press exposure lock to select a specific part of the scene to expose for (which may or may not be the final focus point).
OregonSun wrote:
I figured out how to measure distance by eye for my scale focus original Olympus Pen
Of the many cameras I’ve owned, this is the first scale focus. Along with guessing the distance, there is metering, setting the shutter speed and f stop and finally, cocking the shutter. I did add two things to make it a bit easier, a flip up sports finder and a tape measure for close ups. I’ll have some results in a few days.
madNbad wrote:
I did add two things to make it a bit easier, a flip up sports finder and a tape measure for close ups. I’ll have some results in a few days.
My first "real" camera (after a Kodak Brownie) was my brother's hand-me-down Kodak Retinette, which also had scale focus; I carried a tape measure with me as well as a light meter, although I got good enough at guesstimating light that I only used the meter in critical situations. But then I got an SLR with a built-in meter and shot slide film for 30 years, so I lost those skills.
In many ways, shooting film makes you appreciate how far things have come with digital, both in terms of ease of use and image quality.
lifeandmylens wrote:
Some more questions came up - Is there a recommended cable release / bulb timer? And do any of them have a delay for family photos with me in them?
madNbad wrote:
Of the many cameras I’ve owned, this is the first scale focus. Along with guessing the distance, there is metering, setting the shutter speed and f stop and finally, cocking the shutter. I did add two things to make it a bit easier, a flip up sports finder and a tape measure for close ups. I’ll have some results in a few days.
My very first camera (1985) was some generic plastic thing that had a pictorial scale focus. The available distances were 'mountain', 'person' and 'flower'
lifeandmylens wrote:
MP arrived (beautiful) and used a roll of film to test for scratching (no scratching) but also usage and metering. This guide was great for loading it. Shot almost a roll tonight playing around so I am curious to see how (or even if ) they turn out.
Using a roll of Portra to check for scratching is a little like lighting a cigar with a $20 bill. Respect
With the collapse of Sino Promise and a lot of long time Kodak developers becoming unavailable, what are members using? I like the products from Adox but availability in the U.S. is problematic. Legacy Pro and a few others are making their own version of HC-110, D76 and Xtol. After a year of developing Tri-X in Rodinal, I started using a D76 clone from the Film Photography Project. They also offer a version of HC-110. I bought a small bottle to give it a try. Ilford still produces their own chemicals and I tried Ilfotec HC but didn't like it.
Cinestill DF-96 Monobath is another popular product and recently I've gathered the makings for Caffenol.
Just curious about what other members are using.
madNbad wrote:
With the collapse of Sino Promise and a lot of long time Kodak developers becoming unavailable, what are members using? I like the products from Adox but availability in the U.S. is problematic. Legacy Pro and a few others are making their own version of HC-110, D76 and Xtol. After a year of developing Tri-X in Rodinal, I started using a D76 clone from the Film Photography Project. They also offer a version of HC-110. I bought a small bottle to give it a try. Ilford still produces their own chemicals and I tried Ilfotec HC but didn't like it.
Cinestill DF-96 Monobath is another popular product and recently I've gathered the makings for Caffenol.
Just curious about what other members are using....Show more →
I have a few packs of XTOL that should last me a couple of years. Surely long enough for things to iron out or to at least find a new go-to developer in the meantime.
But I'll still be trying whatever I can get locally, just in case XTOL is done for. I just recently picked up a bottle of Ilfosol 3, which Ilford says is their XTOL alternative. Once my current batch of XTOL is exhausted/used up, I'll probably start on that.
Second roll of film done, with hopefully some good images on it. Loving it so far! Haven't touched my other cameras since. I used a different lens for each roll of film, so I can see how they render. I also played around with ISO 200/250 on porta 400. Rewinding went perfectly on this roll. So did loading the 3rd roll.
Also learned a much faster way to nail exposure on my MP. Basically set the shutter speed I want and then turn the aperture ring in the direction of the arrow in the viewfinder. Very intuitive and fast. Like near instant. I was turning the shutter speed dial before this and because it turns in the opposite direction it was confusing sometimes, and/or I’d end up with a shutter speed I didn’t want. Why they reversed the shutter speed dial is beyond me.
My ES-2 arrived. When I actually try scanning the negatives next week, do you just use window light? And what WB do you use in camera?
Also ordered a 20" cable release so I can play around with long exposures and possibly family portraits with me in them (albeit up close). Haven’t found a self timer yet. WALZ seems to make one that works, but haven’t found one in the US to order yet that I’m sure will work with the MP.
) they turn out.