Love the process so far. It's teaching me a lot about metering and exposure and also waiting for the right shot.
Finished my first roll! But couldn't rewind it. I turned the lever to rewind and started spinning and it never got any friction. After a minute of spinning, I opened the bottom case and saw all the film on the right still tightly spooled up. So I closed it back up. Then tried to pop the rewind dial up first, then turn the lever to rewind and it worked perfectly.
So now I know how to rewind it correctly, but hoping this first roll isn't completely ruined from me opening the bottom for a few seconds.
Edit - called the lab and asked if it's still worth sending in and they said more than likely just a couple frames may have been ruined and maybe some light leaks on the rest. I'll mail it in and guess I'll see. Hopefully a mistake I wont make again!
OffTrail wrote:
Also, I would encourage you to consider a 35mm scanning setup at some point. Anything to host a Nikon ES-2 holder will provide really nice results when you combine that with the Negative Lab Pro plugin for Lightroom.
And always, ALWAYS, get your negatives back!
I ordered a Nikon ES-2 and a used Nikon 50 Z macro lens. When I get my negatives back, I'm going to try and scan the same images that the lab is going to scan. If it works well, I'll just have them develop them then and scan myself. Will see!
lifeandmylens wrote:
.. If it works well, I'll just have them develop them then and scan myself. Will see!
That's what I do for color film. The upside - which I never do.. - is you only have to scan the pics you want. I scan them all, then delete the ones which are meh.
lifeandmylens wrote:
I ordered a Nikon ES-2 and a used Nikon 50 Z macro lens. When I get my negatives back, I'm going to try and scan the same images that the lab is going to scan. If it works well, I'll just have them develop them then and scan myself. Will see!
Nice! I do the same for C41, just have them develop and I do the scanning.
I've compared my D600 + 60 f/2.8D scans (~20mp after cropping in) to my lab's 30mp Noritsu scans, and the difference is surprisingly minimal. I don't tend to print larger than 12x18" with 35mm and either scan has enough resolution for that. As far as color and tonality, I actually tend to prefer what I get out of the D600 and NLP. Let us know how the 50 performs for you.
OffTrail wrote:
Nice! I do the same for C41, just have them develop and I do the scanning.
I've compared my D600 + 60 f/2.8D scans (~20mp after cropping in) to my lab's 30mp Noritsu scans, and the difference is surprisingly minimal. I don't tend to print larger than 12x18" with 35mm and either scan has enough resolution for that. As far as color and tonality, I actually tend to prefer what I get out of the D600 and NLP. Let us know how the 50 performs for you.
Why are you cropping in? You can adjust the ES-2 so the image fits the entire frame. The 60 2.8 is a 1:1 macro lens.
The meter is something I use as a guide. Nothing more. Once I know the bright and shadow exposures I’m good until I leave that place and go somewhere else that is different. Meters on Leicas aren’t very accurate anyway. It’s just to give you an idea.
Desmolicious wrote:
Why are you cropping in? You can adjust the ES-2 so the image fits the entire frame. The 60 2.8 is a 1:1 macro lens.
I leave it out a little bit from the actual MFD to give the D600's live view AF system some breathing room to find the grain. If it's too close, I get a lot of false confirmations.
The meter is something I use as a guide. Nothing more. Once I know the bright and shadow exposures I’m good until I leave that place and go somewhere else that is different. Meters on Leicas aren’t very accurate anyway. It’s just to give you an idea.
I find the metering on my Leicas to be as accurate as my F6. I actually get better exposures from them compared to the F6 if I use the F6 in matrix metering. Center weighted on the F6 = Leica M7/Mp/M6.
OffTrail wrote:
I leave it out a little bit from the actual MFD to give the D600's live view AF system some breathing room to find the grain. If it's too close, I get a lot of false confirmations.
Gotcha. I did not have that issue w the D750/850 or my Z7 now. Which makes sense as all are much more modern cameras.
For most situations you shouldn’t need to look at a meter at all. Once you understand your camera picking the right settings is very easy.
During my mornings shooting up til lunch, I could leave my camera at 1/250 f8 with ISO400 and never change a thing. Except if I go under the trees shade I can put it at f4. And when I go back home there’s nothing I won’t be able to lift or get back in post.
This is why, if I pick a camera for life, I would pick one without a meter. No electronics.
For most situations you shouldn’t need to look at a meter at all. Once you understand your camera picking the right settings is very easy.
During my mornings shooting up til lunch, I could leave my camera at 1/250 f8 with ISO400 and never change a thing. Except if I go under the trees shade I can put it at f4. And when I go back home there’s nothing I won’t be able to lift or get back in post.
You do realize you are saying you are using post to fix your exposure errors, right?
I use a Sekonic 308X with the incident dome over the sensor and meter almost every exposure. My goal is by the time I get to post processing is to make very small adjustments to the imported image. During the capture, I’ll add +1.7 EV over the base exposure reading. If I’ve followed my own advice, it gives me a correct image on the first try. If I do make adjustments, it’s a small bump in exposure or contrast.
