retrofocus wrote:
Usage of nitrile gloves is a very good proactive PPE to use during development activities in general. If film development containers are shaken/inverted during development, I would also recommend to use cheap acrylic safety glasses in case the container is a bit leaking or accidentally not fully closed with its cap.
I strongly second the recommendation for eye protection. I had a chemical burn in my eye a few weeks ago when I was too lazy to go get my eye protection while I was removing some corrosion from a car battery with a wire brush and a tiny flake flew into my eye.
Luckily no lasting damage, but having my eyesight immediately start to go foggy in one eye and then spending the rest of the afternoon in Urgent Care having it thoroughly flushed out was a sobering experience.
OregonSun wrote:
I strongly second the recommendation for eye protection. I had a chemical burn in my eye a few weeks ago when I was too lazy to go get my eye protection while I was removing some corrosion from a car battery with a wire brush and tiny flake flew into my eye.
Luckily no lasting damage, but having my eyesight immediately start to go foggy in one eye and then spending the rest of the afternoon in Urgent Care having it thoroughly flushed out was a sobering experience.
OregonSun wrote:
I strongly second the recommendation for eye protection. I had a chemical burn in my eye a few weeks ago when I was too lazy to go get my eye protection while I was removing some corrosion from a car battery with a wire brush and tiny flake flew into my eye.
Luckily no lasting damage, but having my eyesight immediately start to go foggy in one eye and then spending the rest of the afternoon in Urgent Care having it thoroughly flushed out was a sobering experience.
I've worn glasses for most of my life and couldn't begin to tell you how many times stuff has bounced off of them. I tried contact lenses for a few days but missed the protection glasses provided.
OregonSun wrote:
I strongly second the recommendation for eye protection. I had a chemical burn in my eye a few weeks ago when I was too lazy to go get my eye protection while I was removing some corrosion from a car battery with a wire brush and a tiny flake flew into my eye.
Luckily no lasting damage, but having my eyesight immediately start to go foggy in one eye and then spending the rest of the afternoon in Urgent Care having it thoroughly flushed out was a sobering experience.
Thanks for the tip. I wear a N95 mask but didn't think about protecting the eyes.
rji2goleez wrote:
I have a question for those who scan at home . . . DUST!
My first few rolls were not really a problem using the Valoi Easy35. My most recent roll however, has been a dust nightmare. While the Valoi has a brush where the negatives are fed into the chamber, I still blow the negatives with a Rocket blower. However, I can't believe how many dust specs I have to remove in post. I event tried wiping the negatives with a micro fiber sprayed with lens cleaning fluid. The film in this case was Kodak ProImage 100.
So for those who scan at home, any tips and tricks to keep the dust away?...Show more →
Bob,
How do you like the Valoi Easy35? Would you recommend it?
Fred Miranda wrote:
Bob,
How do you like the Valoi Easy35? Would you recommend it?
I like it and recommend it if you're only interested in 35mm! I purchased the kit with the brush accessory to capture any dust while the negative passes through. I ask my local lab to NOT cut the color negatives and I develop my own B&W. Keeping the negatives uncut makes scanning go more quickly. I use the Laowa 90/2.8 macro on an A1 or A7rV. It takes two longer tubes to achieve proper distance. I can scan a role of 36 very quickly, maybe 60 to 90 seconds.
rji2goleez wrote:
I like it and recommend it if you're only interested in 35mm! I purchased the kit with the brush accessory to capture any dust while the negative passes through. I ask my local lab to NOT cut the color negatives and I develop my own B&W. Keeping the negatives uncut makes scanning go more quickly. I use the Laowa 90/2.8 macro on an A1 or A7rV. It takes two longer tubes to achieve proper distance. I can scan a role of 36 very quickly, maybe 60 to 90 seconds.
Thank you, Bob! I just placed the order with the brush. My camera setup is pretty much the same. I'm using a Sony A7R II with the Laowa 85/5.6 APO lens. I used the Nikon ES-2 digitalizing method, but I'm facing too much light reflection from the sides. It looks like the Valoi setup should help minimize this issue.
Fred Miranda wrote:
Thank you, Bob! I just placed the order with the brush. My camera setup is pretty much the same. I'm using a Sony A7R II with the Laowa 85/5.6 APO lens. I used the Nikon ES-2 digitalizing method, but I'm facing too much light reflection from the sides. It looks like the Valoi setup should help minimize this issue.
I haven't experienced any light reflections in my set up so hopefully you won't either. I like that the Valoi has a white balance adjustment to the light. Cooler for B&W, Warmer for color.
rji2goleez wrote:
I haven't experienced any light reflections in my set up so hopefully you won't either. I like that the Valoi has a white balance adjustment to the light. Cooler for B&W, Warmer for color.
Do you set-up WB in camera to ~5600K or just Daylight?
I've used 5600 for B&W and 6000 for color. I've also used AWB and fix in post. With the ability to adjust at the light source, I don't find it so critical to be so exacting in camera.
rji2goleez wrote:
I've used 5600 for B&W and 6000 for color. I've also used AWB and fix in post. With the ability to adjust at the light source, I don't find it so critical to be so exacting in camera.
Thanks, Bob. Do you mean you can change the white balance in the camera or in the Valoi itself? I received an email mentioning a shipping delay because of high demand, even though it's currently in stock.
I also purchased the interchangeable framing to capture wider shots, including the film holes.
You can change the white balance on the valoi light source. There are two dials. One turns on the light and increases intensity (I just turn it up to max). The other dial adjust white balance of the Valoi light to something warmer or cooler. It's just a dial you rotate one direction or the other. I suppose if you set white balance in camera, you can adjust the valoi light source to be neutral. I believe the manual suggests a more neutral setting for color and cooler for B&W.
rji2goleez wrote:
You can change the white balance on the valoi light source. There are two dials. One turns on the light and increases intensity (I just turn it up to max). The other dial adjust white balance of the Valoi light to something warmer or cooler. It's just a dial you rotate one direction or the other. I suppose if you set white balance in camera, you can adjust the valoi light source to be neutral. I believe the manual suggests a more neutral setting for color and cooler for B&W.
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rji2goleez wrote:
Oh and don't expect Amazon Prime like delivery. Mine took a couple of weeks to make its way over from Europe.
Bob,
It's unbelievable, but I received the Valoi in just three days! It arrived today, and I'm absolutely loving it.
The Warm/Cool settings are fantastic, and setting it up with my A7R II + Laowa 85/5.6 was a breeze. After reading the manual, I found that they recommend using the cool setting for color negatives, warm for color positives, and neutral for black and white film.
Does it weigh much? I've always worried about hanging weight off of the end of my lens, because I fear eventually developing some lash in the focusing system. Even with the Nikon ES-1 (which is very lightweight) I noticed the development of some looseness/play in my macro lens. As a result I've migrated to a copystand system and/or a bellows where the weight of the film holder system isn't being supported by the lens' internals. Maybe they should sell these types of things with a rail system.
Fred Miranda wrote:
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Bob,
It's unbelievable, but I received the Valoi in just three days! It arrived today, and I'm absolutely loving it.
The Warm/Cool settings are fantastic, and setting it up with my A7R II + Laowa 85/5.6 was a breeze. After reading the manual, I found that they recommend using the cool setting for color negatives, warm for color positives, and neutral for black and white film.
Thanks for the recommendation.
Congrats on the quick turnaround! I think mine took so long because I had to wait for the next manufactured batch. Glad you found (and corrected me) on the cool/warm settings. I was going by memory and apparetnly, that's not a good idea!
coralnut wrote:
Does it weigh much? I've always worried about hanging weight off of the end of my lens, because I fear eventually developing some lash in the focusing system. Even with the Nikon ES-1 (which is very lightweight) I noticed the development of some looseness/play in my macro lens. As a result I've migrated to a copystand system and/or a bellows where the weight of the film holder system isn't being supported by the lens' internals. Maybe they should sell these types of things with a rail system.
With the Valoi setup, weight is not a real issue. I use it sitting on a table. The extension tubes are metal as is the attachment to the film housing. There is no 'play' in this setup.
