Fred Miranda
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 p.6 #1 · Voigtlander 28mm f/2 Ultron II Review | |
nehemiahphoto wrote:
@fredmiranda@ You're low key trying to start the CCD wars again 
@naturephoto1@ Thanks for doing all that testing! What do you think of the colors and contrast of the CV 28/2v2 vs the R 28v2?
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jeffersoncasey wrote:
Being one that had a war with myself few months ago, I looked past it and moved on. Sensor tech has evolved so much that I'm test driving mirrorless bodies and it was such a relief to shoot in low light, stopped down. There are simply too many advantage to give up. One aspect that I didn't hear too many people speak of, is that M9, to my eyes, has narrower color gamut, for lack of better words. That will shine when you shoot a scene that's a little dull, but more often than not the colors can look a little lacking in terms of realism. It was addicting at first, but somehow the excitement quickly fade when I wanted something that better represent the actual scene.
I still keep the M9 as a rendering reference, and see what's the next generation M would be like. ...Show more →
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nehemiahphoto wrote:
I agree with this. I used to shoot the D80--by todays standards, obviously no good. But, there was a certain way the colors and tones were rendered if you could keep with the DR (which usually meant drabber or softer evening light) that was just lovely. I am not saying the colors were uber accurate, but skin tones and such were just lovely.
And this is largely the story of (the best) character lenses too--shoot them in medium to soft light, there's a softness and richness to the tones that are magic (usually combined with SA). As you say, it's not as if the color resolution is superb, it's more about color palate and balance and tone. Shoot those same character lenses in harsh light, colors look muted or washed often, and get ready for lots of axial CA and flare. My recently acquired Sigma 35i is pleasant and remarkably consistent. Sometimes a bit boring, but it's very transparent in different lights, and I don't have the hesitate to use it in any context.
So, not only do I pick my lenses based on the type of photography (such as a modern CV for stopped down landscape work in harsher light and they do well in softer light as well), but I usually pick my gentler lenses when I know I'll be shooting towards evening or in dimmer light, which provides that gentle richness many modern lenses lack. ...Show more →
One my first shooting day in Hawaii, I exposed the scenes like I usually do with my A7RIV and M10 but quickly realized when looking at the LCD, that when shooting at sunset/dusk, the M9's shadows were not holding much detail when whenever the scenes were properly exposed to hold on to the highlights.
So, I set the camera to (-2,0.2) bracketing and the results were great. (Will post some of them soon)
In the end, most of my scenes were 6-image composites where I would bracket the shots at two different distances for a latter focus stacking in post. I mostly shot at f/5.6 or f/6.7.
Another alternative way I found effective for battling the narrower SNR, was to shoot 4 images in continuous mode, exposing them to the highlights. When mean averaging them in post, noise would be well controlled and the files looked great as well. I could not shoot more than 4 images because of the limited camera's buffer.
All in all, these restrictions didn't stop me from getting the shots I wanted and I only had the rangefinder to rely on, so it's just a matter of adjustment. One night I mistakenly let ISO set to "auto" and when shooting long exposures on a tripod, the camera exposed my landscapes to ISO 2000, which I only realized the next day. ;-). That's deadly for the M9's files as things get quite noise above ISO 640.
This mistake was upsetting because the scenes I captured that night had incredible color and cloud formations but this mistake taught a lesson. This would not had happened if I was shooting with the M10 since I can see ISO settings at all times (dial on top). Now I have my M9 set to profiles like "landscapes", "Portraits", "general" where the camera has the correct settings for the type of shooting I'm going to do. This was quite ahead of its time! :-)
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) would be almost IMPOSSIBLE to recognize which is CCD and which CMOS. 
I'm sure a calibrated profile like Cobalt will help though I'll hold my judgements until I've seen more examples... 
