Sony FE Images Thread
p.2266 #1Sony FE Images Thread
A72+EBC Fujinon 55/1.8,m42-great little lens
Jun 24, 2017 at 08:55 AM
p.2266 #2Sony FE Images Thread
k-h.a.w wrote:
Here's a different use of the Loxia 21.Very colorful Jim. Thanks.
What values did you use for contrast and saturation? TIA.
K-H.
Well, that's a little complicated, K.H.! I don't use what I consider "a lot" of enhancement, more strategic tweaks. Still it adds up when using various LR sliders. Here is what I used in the general range of "contrast and saturation":
Contrast +7
Highlights -10
Shadows +50
Whites +7
Blacks -5
Clarity +17
Vibrance +12
Saturation +12
Post-Crop Vignetting -10
Dehaze +29
I also use +/- on dodge and burn on the Graduated Filter and Adjustment Brush for broad or specific areas of light and dark.
Other than raising shadows (I intentionally shoot underexposed to preserve highlights, as per Fred) and add general contrast and saturation with Dehaze, the rest are minor touches. The main thing is getting the correct light and time of day. I use most of these settings to one degree or another in almost all my daylight photos.
I must emphasize how utterly vibrant the landscape is when the sun comes out! The town of Aberdeen, WA, averages over 80" of rain per year, and this year might have set a record with over 90". That's temperate rainforest -- so everything is ultra-green with the new growth of spring, also affecting other colors like the reds of the Chinese cherry trees, etc. It doesn't take a lot of saturation or contrast in the photos! I shot here in earlier morning hours, around 7:00 AM on a Saturday, before everyone was out and about, so got the more intense glancing light on the buildings and taller vegetation. (You'll notice the "neutral" areas of pavement and earth colors are not overly enhanced.)
Hope this helps!
(I re-edited the photo after I saw it published here, increasing the color temp from 4500 to 4700.)
Here are a couple other views from the Loxia 21 (straightened and cropped, of course!
).
Gunzorro wrote
Nice, Joshua!Here's a different use of the Loxia 21.
What values did you use for contrast and saturation? TIA.
K-H.
Well, that's a little complicated, K.H.!
I don't use what I consider "a lot" of enhancement, more strategic tweaks. Still it adds up when using various LR sliders. Here is what I used in the general range of "contrast and saturation":Contrast +7
Highlights -10
Shadows +50
Whites +7
Blacks -5
Clarity +17
Vibrance +12
Saturation +12
Post-Crop Vignetting -10
Dehaze +29
I also use +/- on dodge and burn on the Graduated Filter and Adjustment Brush for broad or specific areas of light and dark.
Other than raising shadows (I intentionally shoot underexposed to preserve highlights, as per Fred) and add general contrast and saturation with Dehaze, the rest are minor touches. The main thing is getting the correct light and time of day. I use most of these settings to one degree or another in almost all my daylight photos.
I must emphasize how utterly vibrant the landscape is when the sun comes out! The town of Aberdeen, WA, averages over 80" of rain per year, and this year might have set a record with over 90". That's temperate rainforest -- so everything is ultra-green with the new growth of spring, also affecting other colors like the reds of the Chinese cherry trees, etc. It doesn't take a lot of saturation or contrast in the photos! I shot here in earlier morning hours, around 7:00 AM on a Saturday, before everyone was out and about, so got the more intense glancing light on the buildings and taller vegetation. (You'll notice the "neutral" areas of pavement and earth colors are not overly enhanced.)
Hope this helps!
(I re-edited the photo after I saw it published here, increasing the color temp from 4500 to 4700.)
Here are a couple other views from the Loxia 21 (straightened and cropped, of course!
).Jun 24, 2017 at 09:10 AM
p.2266 #3Sony FE Images Thread
A few parting shots from the Firin 20mm. Great lens but wasn't using it much, I'm just not an UWA junkie.
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Jun 24, 2017 at 09:47 AM
p.2266 #4Sony FE Images Thread
More experimenting with the Sigma 50 Art.
Mundane subjects, but really liking the overall performance and IQ of the lens.
Sigma 50 Art by lareginl, on Flickr
Sigma 50 Art-4 by lareginl, on Flickr
Mundane subjects, but really liking the overall performance and IQ of the lens.
Sigma 50 Art by lareginl, on FlickrSigma 50 Art-4 by lareginl, on FlickrJun 24, 2017 at 10:51 AM
p.2266 #5Sony FE Images Thread
Gunzorro wrote:
Here's a different use of the Loxia 21.Very colorful Jim. Thanks.
What values did you use for contrast and saturation? TIA.
K-H.Well, that's a little complicated, K.H.! I don't use what I consider "a lot" of enhancement, more strategic tweaks. Still it adds up when using various LR sliders. Here is what I used in the general range of "contrast and saturation":
Contrast +7
Highlights -10
Shadows +50
Whites +7
Blacks -5
Clarity +17
Vibrance +12
Saturation +12
Post-Crop Vignetting -10
Dehaze +29
I also use +/- on dodge and burn on the Graduated Filter and Adjustment Brush for broad or specific areas of light and dark.
Other than raising shadows (I intentionally shoot underexposed to preserve highlights, as per Fred) and add general contrast and saturation with Dehaze, the rest...Show more →
Many thanks Jim for the info.
Your images are very pleasing and reflect beautifully the rich colorful environment.
Your processing is indeed working out extremely well.
Thanks again, Karl-Heinz.
k-h.a.w wrote
Gunzorro wrote
Nice, Joshua!Here's a different use of the Loxia 21.
What values did you use for contrast and saturation? TIA.
K-H.
I don't use what I consider "a lot" of enhancement, more strategic tweaks. Still it adds up when using various LR sliders. Here is what I used in the general range of "contrast and saturation":Contrast +7
Highlights -10
Shadows +50
Whites +7
Blacks -5
Clarity +17
Vibrance +12
Saturation +12
Post-Crop Vignetting -10
Dehaze +29
I also use +/- on dodge and burn on the Graduated Filter and Adjustment Brush for broad or specific areas of light and dark.
Other than raising shadows (I intentionally shoot underexposed to preserve highlights, as per Fred) and add general contrast and saturation with Dehaze, the rest...Show more →
Many thanks Jim for the info.
Your images are very pleasing and reflect beautifully the rich colorful environment.
Your processing is indeed working out extremely well.
Thanks again, Karl-Heinz.
Jun 24, 2017 at 10:53 AM
p.2266 #6Sony FE Images Thread
A few more as I finally have time to look back at the last few weeks and go through the shots. This was a morning with the Contax glass.
Contax C/Y 35mm f/1.4 MMJ
Contax 80-200 f/4
Contax C/Y 35mm f/1.4 MMJ
Contax C/Y 35mm f/1.4 MMJ
Contax C/Y 35mm f/1.4 MMJ
Contax 80-200 f/4
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Contax C/Y 35mm f/1.4 MMJ
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Contax 80-200 f/4
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Contax C/Y 35mm f/1.4 MMJ
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Contax C/Y 35mm f/1.4 MMJ
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Contax C/Y 35mm f/1.4 MMJ
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Contax 80-200 f/4
Jun 24, 2017 at 11:16 AM
p.2266 #9Sony FE Images Thread
Grapevine Lake, Batis 18.
Clarity set to 0 on firework.
Four photo's combined using layers and screen.
Clarity set to 0 on firework.
Four photo's combined using layers and screen.
Jun 24, 2017 at 12:02 PM
p.2266 #10Sony FE Images Thread
Mathieu18 wrote:
Masada Night Sky. Sony A7r, 16-35mm f4.
Incidentally if anyone can give me advice about focusing these fly by wire systems for accurate infinity focus I would be delighted. The electronic viewfinder was completely black in that night sky. I composed by shooting and adjusting and I had to do the same with focusing hoping to heck that it would be good enough.Setting Effect Off, Peaking Medium. Pick the brightest start you can find, go to max magnification and slowly go back and forth until you get peaking where you want it.
ManuelLaMantia wrote:
Masada Night Sky. Sony A7r, 16-35mm f4.
Incidentally if anyone can give me advice about focusing these fly by wire systems for accurate infinity focus I would be delighted. The electronic viewfinder was completely black in that night sky. I composed by shooting and adjusting and I had to do the same with focusing hoping to heck that it would be good enough.Also for my brief experience, you have to find the brightest star in the sky and manually adjust focus on it with the viewfinder magnification set to maximu (x14.4 on A7r)... I used this basic technique without the help of peaking and worked very well
Thanks to both of you! I had setting effect on. Assumed that with a 30 second exposure the viewfinder would already be maxed out. My mistake. Am I correct in thinking that the focus of the lens resets when you switch the camera off? I was scared to switch it off the entire time just in case.
Beni wrote
http://www.timelessjewishart.com/EDC_zx/sky2.jpgMasada Night Sky. Sony A7r, 16-35mm f4.
Incidentally if anyone can give me advice about focusing these fly by wire systems for accurate infinity focus I would be delighted. The electronic viewfinder was completely black in that night sky. I composed by shooting and adjusting and I had to do the same with focusing hoping to heck that it would be good enough.
ManuelLaMantia wrote:
Beni wrote
http://www.timelessjewishart.com/EDC_zx/sky2.jpgMasada Night Sky. Sony A7r, 16-35mm f4.
Incidentally if anyone can give me advice about focusing these fly by wire systems for accurate infinity focus I would be delighted. The electronic viewfinder was completely black in that night sky. I composed by shooting and adjusting and I had to do the same with focusing hoping to heck that it would be good enough.
Thanks to both of you! I had setting effect on. Assumed that with a 30 second exposure the viewfinder would already be maxed out. My mistake. Am I correct in thinking that the focus of the lens resets when you switch the camera off? I was scared to switch it off the entire time just in case.
Jun 24, 2017 at 12:13 PM
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p.2266 #11Sony FE Images Thread
Gunzorro wrote:
Nice, Joshua!
Here's a different use of the Loxia 21.
Thanks, Jim and your usage of that lens is just
!
Greggf wrote:
Lots of really nice grabs the last pages.
Joshua, Ronny, Werner, Jim and Jim, Rene, and everyone else!
Gregg
A7rll and Contax 35-70 and Rocks!
Thank you, Gregg and you definitely put that lens to good use! I was tempted a few times but I have too many lenses already....
Here is an image from a recent session in Riverside using the Sigma 135mm f/1.8 Art at wide open.
Anastasia
Nice, Joshua!
Here's a different use of the Loxia 21.
Thanks, Jim and your usage of that lens is just
!Greggf wrote:
Lots of really nice grabs the last pages.
Joshua, Ronny, Werner, Jim and Jim, Rene, and everyone else!
Gregg
A7rll and Contax 35-70 and Rocks!
Thank you, Gregg and you definitely put that lens to good use! I was tempted a few times but I have too many lenses already....
Here is an image from a recent session in Riverside using the Sigma 135mm f/1.8 Art at wide open.
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 © AGeoJO 2017 |
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Anastasia
Jun 24, 2017 at 12:16 PM
p.2266 #12Sony FE Images Thread
I dont think focus really "resets" but I'd want to verify it anyway if you shut the camera off. Nothing else I think it could drift a bit without power. If you have it in Manual Focus mode I think it should stay put. Regardless, with Setting Effect Off you'll get the full gain and it'll be a lot easier to find a star to use for focus magnification.
Beni wrote:
Masada Night Sky. Sony A7r, 16-35mm f4.
Incidentally if anyone can give me advice about focusing these fly by wire systems for accurate infinity focus I would be delighted. The electronic viewfinder was completely black in that night sky. I composed by shooting and adjusting and I had to do the same with focusing hoping to heck that it would be good enough.Setting Effect Off, Peaking Medium. Pick the brightest start you can find, go to max magnification and slowly go back and forth until you get peaking where you want it.
Masada Night Sky. Sony A7r, 16-35mm f4.
Incidentally if anyone can give me advice about focusing these fly by wire systems for accurate infinity focus I would be delighted. The electronic viewfinder was completely black in that night sky. I composed by shooting and adjusting and I had to do the same with focusing hoping to heck that it would be good enough.Also for my brief experience, you have to find the brightest star in the sky and manually adjust focus on it with the viewfinder magnification set to maximu (x14.4 on A7r)... I used this basic technique without the help of peaking and worked very well Thanks to both of you! I had setting effect on. Assumed that with a 30 second exposure the viewfinder would already be maxed out. My mistake. Am I correct in thinking that the focus of the lens resets when you switch the camera off? I was scared to switch it off the entire time just in case.
Beni wrote:
Mathieu18 wrote
Beni wrote
http://www.timelessjewishart.com/EDC_zx/sky2.jpgMasada Night Sky. Sony A7r, 16-35mm f4.
Incidentally if anyone can give me advice about focusing these fly by wire systems for accurate infinity focus I would be delighted. The electronic viewfinder was completely black in that night sky. I composed by shooting and adjusting and I had to do the same with focusing hoping to heck that it would be good enough.
ManuelLaMantia wrote
Beni wrote
http://www.timelessjewishart.com/EDC_zx/sky2.jpgMasada Night Sky. Sony A7r, 16-35mm f4.
Incidentally if anyone can give me advice about focusing these fly by wire systems for accurate infinity focus I would be delighted. The electronic viewfinder was completely black in that night sky. I composed by shooting and adjusting and I had to do the same with focusing hoping to heck that it would be good enough.
Jun 24, 2017 at 12:54 PM
p.2266 #15Sony FE Images Thread
Sony A7RII + SMC Pentax-M 50mm F1.7
Sony A7RII + SMC Pentax-M 50mm F1.7 by Daniel Danrich, on Flickr
Sony A7RII + SMC Pentax-M 50mm F1.7 by Daniel Danrich, on FlickrJun 24, 2017 at 01:57 PM
p.2266 #17Sony FE Images Thread
Strange lens Phillip. Some like the rodent and a couple from your last set reminded me of a lot of legacy teles: not great. But the Lynx eyes and the bird here look fantastic. Are my eyes just playing tricks on me?
Phillip Reeve wrote:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4264/35379090251_7e0c4b0d50_o.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4234/35342500552_e342f4213f_o.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4259/35342500812_1a87e78c9c_o.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4215/34700043843_e878aaee5b_o.jpg
Phillip Reeve wrote:
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4264/35379090251_7e0c4b0d50_o.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4234/35342500552_e342f4213f_o.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4259/35342500812_1a87e78c9c_o.jpg
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4215/34700043843_e878aaee5b_o.jpg
Jun 24, 2017 at 02:01 PM
p.2266 #18Sony FE Images Thread
k-h.a.w wrote:
Here's a different use of the Loxia 21.Very colorful Jim. Thanks.
What values did you use for contrast and saturation? TIA.
K-H.Well, that's a little complicated, K.H.! I don't use what I consider "a lot" of enhancement, more strategic tweaks. Still it adds up when using various LR sliders. Here is what I used in the general range of "contrast and saturation":
Contrast +7
Highlights -10
Shadows +50
Whites +7
Blacks -5
Clarity +17
Vibrance +12
Saturation +12
Post-Crop Vignetting -10
Dehaze +29
I also use +/- on dodge and burn on the Graduated Filter and Adjustment Brush for broad or specific areas of light and dark.
Other than raising shadows (I intentionally shoot underexposed to preserve highlights, as per Fred) and add general contrast and saturation with Dehaze, the rest are minor touches. The main thing is getting the correct light and time of day. I use most of these settings to one degree or another in almost all my daylight photos.
I must emphasize how utterly vibrant the landscape is when the sun comes out! The town of Aberdeen, WA, averages over 80" of rain per year, and this year might have set a record with over 90". That's temperate rainforest -- so everything is ultra-green with the new growth of spring, also affecting other colors like the reds of the Chinese cherry trees, etc. It doesn't take a lot of saturation or contrast in the photos! I shot here in earlier morning hours, around 7:00 AM on a Saturday, before everyone was out and about, so got the more intense glancing light on the buildings and taller vegetation. (You'll notice the "neutral" areas of pavement and earth colors are not overly enhanced.)
Hope this helps!
(I re-edited the photo after I saw it published here, increasing the color temp from 4500 to 4700.)
Here are a couple other views from the Loxia 21 (straightened and cropped, of course! ).Many thanks Jim for the info.
Your images are very pleasing and reflect beautifully the rich colorful environment.
Your processing is indeed working out extremely well.
Thanks again, Karl-Heinz.
Thanks so much, Karl-Heinz! I appreciate you asking.
Gunzorro wrote
k-h.a.w wrote
Gunzorro wrote
Nice, Joshua!Here's a different use of the Loxia 21.
What values did you use for contrast and saturation? TIA.
K-H.
I don't use what I consider "a lot" of enhancement, more strategic tweaks. Still it adds up when using various LR sliders. Here is what I used in the general range of "contrast and saturation":Contrast +7
Highlights -10
Shadows +50
Whites +7
Blacks -5
Clarity +17
Vibrance +12
Saturation +12
Post-Crop Vignetting -10
Dehaze +29
I also use +/- on dodge and burn on the Graduated Filter and Adjustment Brush for broad or specific areas of light and dark.
Other than raising shadows (I intentionally shoot underexposed to preserve highlights, as per Fred) and add general contrast and saturation with Dehaze, the rest are minor touches. The main thing is getting the correct light and time of day. I use most of these settings to one degree or another in almost all my daylight photos.
I must emphasize how utterly vibrant the landscape is when the sun comes out! The town of Aberdeen, WA, averages over 80" of rain per year, and this year might have set a record with over 90". That's temperate rainforest -- so everything is ultra-green with the new growth of spring, also affecting other colors like the reds of the Chinese cherry trees, etc. It doesn't take a lot of saturation or contrast in the photos! I shot here in earlier morning hours, around 7:00 AM on a Saturday, before everyone was out and about, so got the more intense glancing light on the buildings and taller vegetation. (You'll notice the "neutral" areas of pavement and earth colors are not overly enhanced.)
Hope this helps!
(I re-edited the photo after I saw it published here, increasing the color temp from 4500 to 4700.)
Here are a couple other views from the Loxia 21 (straightened and cropped, of course!
).Your images are very pleasing and reflect beautifully the rich colorful environment.
Your processing is indeed working out extremely well.
Thanks again, Karl-Heinz.
Thanks so much, Karl-Heinz! I appreciate you asking.
Jun 24, 2017 at 02:20 PM
p.2266 #19Sony FE Images Thread
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Jun 24, 2017 at 03:08 PM
p.2266 #20Sony FE Images Thread
Mathieu18 wrote:
Strange lens Phillip. Some like the rodent and a couple from your last set reminded me of a lot of legacy teles: not great. But the Lynx eyes and the bird here look fantastic. Are my eyes just playing tricks on me?
Well in one aspect it differs a lot from the vast majority of legacy teles: CA correction is great. These shots are not too critical but I took a few other ones with branches and white birds infront of the sky: zero noticeable CA. Sharpness is very good at least in tve central area as well. Where the age becomes noticeable is contrast which is a bit low and I have pushed it more than I usually do.
The mormot shot in this series is not very sharp because I had no support and should have chosen a faster shutter speed.
Jun 24, 2017 at 03:13 PM