p.119 #3 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
molson wrote:
In what way?
You made this statement in the previous page: "The "Exmor Tartan" shadow noise banding on the A7R is worse than anything I was ever able to produce on the Canon bodies"
Then you're sharing jpgs showing the issue, which is meaningless as we have no idea as to what's been done to the file as there is no reference point.
p.119 #4 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
SKumar25 wrote:
You made this statement in the previous page: "The "Exmor Tartan" shadow noise banding on the A7R is worse than anything I was ever able to produce on the Canon bodies"
I did clarify that first part by showing the 6D is as bad, or possibly worse... but I also looked back through my 5D Mark III and 1Dx files, and with similar exposure value ranges (4-5 stops) both of those cameras showed less obvious and smaller-patterened banding.
Then you're sharing jpgs showing the issue, which is meaningless as we have no idea as to what's been done to the file as there is no reference point.
Do you think I drew those lines on the image in Photoshop?
p.119 #5 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
SKumar25 wrote:
Then you're sharing jpgs showing the issue, which is meaningless as we have no idea as to what's been done to the file as there is no reference point.
molson wrote:
Do you think I drew those lines on the image in Photoshop?
No, but if you push any sensor far enough you will see some fixed pattern noise. So without knowing exactly what's been done to the RAW file there's no basis for comparison.
I haven't seen this with any other A7/A7R images, there may be a fault with your camera.
p.119 #7 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
molson wrote:
I did clarify that first part by showing the 6D is as bad, or possibly worse... but I also looked back through my 5D Mark III and 1Dx files, and with similar exposure value ranges (4-5 stops) both of those cameras showed less obvious and smaller-patterened banding.
Do you think I drew those lines on the image in Photoshop?
Your A7r pushes in this thread are more than 5EV (I can tell by the purple tint in the shadows, which only starts to occur beyond +7EV pushes), and the 5DM3/1DX will show noticeably more noise and banding than the A7r at equivalent exposures and exposure pushes.
p.119 #8 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
snapsy wrote:
Your A7r pushes in this thread are more than 5EV (I can tell by the purple tint in the shadows, which only starts to occur beyond +7EV pushes), and the 5DM3/1DX will show noticeably more noise and banding than the A7r at equivalent exposures and exposure pushes.
Good guess, but actually the shots from the church interior are only pushed 2.5 EV in LR5.6. The shadow slider is set at 90. This amount of manipulation is trivial for the Nikon D800E.
The other examples are pushed 4.0 EV (A7R) and 3.5 EV (EOS 6D) which I would never normally do - it was just a way of demonstrating the problem more clearly.
If this is a sensor problem, I wonder if it's something Sony would (or could) fix?
I wish I hadn't seen this, because I was relatively happy with the camera's image quality up until then...
p.119 #9 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
molson wrote:
Good guess, but actually the shots from the church interior are only pushed 2.5 EV in LR5.6. The shadow slider is set at 90. This amount of manipulation is trivial for the Nikon D800E.
The other examples are pushed 4.0 EV (A7R) and 3.5 EV (EOS 6D) which I would never normally do - it was just a way of demonstrating the problem more clearly.
If this is a sensor problem, I wonder if it's something Sony would (or could) fix?
I wish I hadn't seen this, because I was relatively happy with the camera's image quality up until then...
If you're pushing both the exposure and shadow sliders than the effective EV push is more than what's being quoted. The noise in both your A7r and 6D images is indicative of a much higher EV adjustment than what's being quoted.
p.119 #10 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
snapsy wrote:
If you're pushing both the exposure and shadow sliders than the effective EV push is more than what's being quoted. The noise in both your A7r and 6D images is indicative of a much higher EV adjustment than what's being quoted.
Like I said, this level of adjustment is trivial for a Nikon D800E (I just tried it on a few images) so there is either a problem with my camera, or the Sony sensors are no better than the Canon sensors everybody loves to complain about.
p.119 #11 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
molson wrote:
Like I said, this level of adjustment is trivial for a Nikon D800E (I just tried it on a few images) so there is either a problem with my camera, or the Sony sensors are no better than the Canon sensors everybody loves to complain about.
i knew soon or later you are going to say this...i've googled internet and the only banding complain is the last two pages. Two of mine work fine and the sensor is much better than anything i have owned from canon.
p.119 #12 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
molson wrote:
..... or the Sony sensors are no better than the Canon sensors everybody loves to complain about.
Can you still sleep well knowing that a better technology is implemented in other than your favored Canon cameras? On a serious note, yes, I think your camera might have a problem if it is true what you stated. Can happen - send it in or use the warranty if still valid. Best luck.
p.119 #13 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
Matt Grum wrote:
So you want to raise the ISO enough so you can see what you're shooting, but not too much that you risk clipping any highlights in the scene. This is where zebras come in really handy. Use the most conservative zebra setting you can (80% or something like that) set your creative controls (aperture and shutter-speed) to whatever values you want/need and then spin the ISO up (I suggest using the wheel on the back) until you see the zebras in the viewfinder. Then you'll be able to see what you're doing whilst keeping several stops of headroom in reserve. ...Show more →
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retrofocus wrote:
I tried to verify your suggestion on my A7R with MF lens today, but it didn't work. The zebra was independent from the ISO number. It didn't change the pattern or amount when I increased or decreased the ISO number.
You need to have "Live View Setting Effect" turned on, that way you see the effects of things like exposure, Depth of Field etc. live in the viewfinder / LCD screen. One of the big advantages of having an EVF in the first place.
p.119 #14 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
Matt Grum wrote:
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You need to have "Live View Setting Effect" turned on, that way you see the effects of things like exposure, Depth of Field etc. live in the viewfinder / LCD screen. One of the big advantages of having an EVF in the first place.
Thanks so much, Matt - I found now how it worked: I already had the LiveView Setting Effect turned on, but the trick was to use the camera in M mode. I had it set in the A mode, and there it doesn't work because it also automatically adjusts the exposure time depending on the selected ISO number. In M mode it works exactly as you described - changing the ISO at a given aperture and exposure time changes the highlights (obviously). The Zebra is then a good tool to determine potential overexposure. I will play around with it a bit more!
p.119 #16 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
Tim, I checked again, yes, in A mode you can see the effect by changing the over/underexposure setting. But in this mode it is different with the ISO number what Matt pointed out earlier since the exposure is always adjusted accordingly. To use it in A mode together with the ISO number change, I need to select the ISO first (plus lens aperture), use under/overexposure to then adjust the highlights (meaning the exposure time is adjusted). I cannot just rotate the wheel and change the ISO number quickly to reduce the zebra highlights as I need do it in the M mode (here I keep exposure/aperture constant and adjust the highlights through change of ISO). Since I often stay at a constant lower ISO number, the method you suggested is more practical for me. Thanks for the hint!
p.119 #19 · Sony A7 and A7r Full Frame with Canon Lenses
I have tried a Viltrox EF-Nex II on A sony C3 and an A7 and found:
That the 4 AF lens I own that Auto focus are:
1 Canon EF 85mm 1:18 USM.
2 Canon EF 20-35mm 1:3.5-4.5 USM first released March 1993.
3 Canon EF 28-80mm 1:3.5-5/6 USM first released October 1991.
4 Tamron SP 70-300mm F/4-5.6 USD.
Only the prime seems to be listed on the amazon details. I wonder how many USM lenses do not work.
The focus speed is probably slightly slower than on my Full frame Canon, And if A7 or C3 would not focus well with standard lenses the viltrox also gets confused, I was in Chirk castle with a standard lens and tried to capture an image through old glass. The focus was not good. Later through a rain soaked window at home I found the A7/viltrox would hunt a bit.
So how fast is the focus? This is the focus speed sequence for the af lens above 1, 4, 3, 2. This would match a canon body. I guess they are all a bit slower than on the canon body. The weather has improved so I may be able to test outside a bit more, in decent light.
How tight does it fit? I hope it relaxes a bit with use it is a bit too tight at present, lens changing is slow.
Manual focus:
I have tried this with dandelion adapters and a few OM Zuiko lens. "no free lunch with adapters" I think these are OK at present, but testing them all will take a while. Update: Only 4 of my dandelion adapters mount, some of the others will not mount and one has been damage mounting it. This is because the sprung contact points seem particularly stiff at the clockwise end. This stiffness means a dandelion chip mounted a fraction high can not depress the last 2 contacts. Marginally high will mount but contact is not made because the gold dandelion contact is split. looking at the camera the contacts seem less aggressive.
I have found that the camera will not take photos with a, viltrox/dandelion/OM, lens sandwich after an overnight power off on. The second symptom is very fast camera start up. The solution is to power off dismount and remount the viltrox.
The mode dial on the camera can also lock out the shutter, if it is not in Aperture Priority or manual, with manual lens.
And the good news 70 UKP About 100USD. 25% of the leading one's price.
