Congratulations! I like it. I've seen a great many images over the years and this is an original that doesn't remind me of something I remember seeing before. That's becoming a rarity. Thank you.
- f22 is too high for a sharp skyline. defraction kicks in at >f16 in big way on 1.6x format (20d, 30d, 40d,50d, rebel). f22 is also not needed at f10. Approx 5'toinfinity ocurrs at f11.
- most lens are sharpest at 2 stops up from wide open which is likely around f8 or f11
- most zoom lens are sharpest at the middle (16mmm of 10-22) of the range
- if you are focussing close, it woudl be sharper if you were focussing further away
- use tripod and mirror lockup and a remote shutter release
So for sharper, use tripod, remote shutter release, mirror lockup, focus nearer to infinity, move to f11, and back up to use 16mm. Possilbly use f8, for even sharper. Maybe try both and see which is better.
faster shutter will not make sharper unless there is pollution or fog moving between you and the buildings.
The only other thing you can do is get a better camera or a better lens. The lens is likely to be more important than the camera.
Scott Stoness wrote:
- f22 is too high for a sharp skyline. defraction kicks in at >f16 in big way on 1.6x format (20d, 30d, 40d,50d, rebel). f22 is also not needed at f10. At f10 5'toinfinity ocurrs at f11.
- most lens are sharpest at 2 stops up from wide open which is likely around f8 or f11
- most zoom lens are sharpest at the middle (16mmm of 10-22) of the range
- if you are focussing close, it woudl be sharper if you were focussing further away
- use tripod and mirror lockup and a remote shutter release
So for sharper, use tripod, remote shutter release, mirror lockup, focus nearer to infinity, move to f11, and back up to use 16mm. Possilbly use f8, for even sharper. Maybe try both and see which is better.
faster shutter will not make sharper unless there is pollution or fog moving between you and the buildings.
The only other thing you can do is get a better camera or a better lens. The lens is likely to be more important than the camera.
Scott ...Show more →
great tips, thanks! My stupid photo teacher couldnt give me that advice (which is why Im not doing any more evening courses there), but I'll definitely do a re-shoot on this and try it out closer to f8.
You are welcome. I forgot to add, if you are using a tripod, turn off the image stabilization on the lens otherwise the IS will cause noise by seeking noise.
I'll add one more, albeit minor suggestion to Scott's already excellent advice: if you're using a light tripod, stabilize it by hanging weight (gear bag?) from the center post/head. Otherwise it may be subject to vibration from wind, passing traffic, etc...
Reminds me of Jacksonville, FL. I don't know what's great about the shot, but that could be because my eye lacks the ability to "like" anything. I do have an idea, which is to put a foamcore board grid on a flash to make the light directional, point it at the very back or left edge of the sculpture (from outside left of the frame), and fire a test shot during the long exposure. It might silhouette the sculpture and bring it out more.
What a striking and interesting image! I suspect the softness of the background is due to the camera support; diffraction "problems" are seldom as obvious. HOwever, that softness really doesn't bother me--it doesn't register in the larger scheme of things. Good seeing.
