So i have Nikon D7000 and a SB700 flash, i would like to be able to trigger the flash with out using the pop up flash. Id like to be able to use the ittl because i have no experience with the flash let alone using it in manaul mode..thanks
irlfan82 wrote:
dont they make something to go into the hot shoe to trigger the flash in ittl mode
Yes, you can get a Pocket Wizard MiniTT1 transmitter or Flex TT5 transceiver to mount in the hot shoe, and use a Flex TT5 as a receiver onto which you would mount the SB-700. The PW's ControlTL functions are iTTL-compatible.
May I ask, though, why you don't want to use the pop-up, which is "free," as the commander?
(BTW, are you in Onalaska, WA; Onalaska, WI; Onalaska, Tx; or some Onalaska that I'm not familiar with?)
Bruce Sawle wrote:
SU-800 goes on hot [shoe,] and will trigger the flash.
Canon's ST-E2 is so underwelming (IMO) that I keep forgetting about Nikon's far superior (also IMO) SU-800.
It has the same line-of-sight limitations as using the pop-up would, but it has more power and it's infra-red rather than visible-light; and it's a lot less expensive than the Pocket Wizard iTTL options.
I have both the SU-800 and the the Pocket Wizard Flex system. I prefer the pocket wizard, for a couple of reasons, outdoor use can interfere with infrared on the SU-800 and the ability to Hyper sync the pocket wizard.
BrianO wrote:
Yes, you can get a Pocket Wizard MiniTT1 transmitter or Flex TT5 transceiver to mount in the hot shoe, and use a Flex TT5 as a receiver onto which you would mount the SB-700. The PW's ControlTL functions are iTTL-compatible.
May I ask, though, why you don't want to use the pop-up, which is "free," as the commander?
(BTW, are you in Onalaska, WA; Onalaska, WI; Onalaska, Tx; or some Onalaska that I'm not familiar with?)
Onalaska WI.
.im just thinking that if i want to light up something on just the sides or back i dont have to use or block the pop up flash..
Well, I won't be dropping by to say hello, then. (I used to work near Onalaska, WA, and still get down there from time to time. Wisconsin? Not so much.)
irlfan82 wrote:
...im just thinking that if i want to light up something on just the sides or back i dont have to use or block the pop up flash..
If the Nikon system is like the Canon system (and I'm pretty sure it is, in this respect) you can set the pop-up not to fire for exposure, but only the command-and-control preflashes. If you're shooting close up or have a reflective background, the last command pulse may be slightly visible, but you can shield it from the subject with this:
rdl65 wrote:
You can use your pop up flash on the D7000 to trigger the SB700 but also not have the pop up fire. ozpall wrote:
Set the pop up power to -- that's it.
The pop-up's light may still be visible, even when set not to fire -- if there's a reflective object in the scene, or if the camera is very close to the subject. (The final command pulse obviously has to fire after the shutter opens.) That's why Nikon offers the IR Filter for the pop-up.
On the flip side, I know what you mean that all the settings on the Sb700 are kind of intimidating. I remember when I first bought one, the menu looked like a maze in comparison to the (somewhat lacking) menu set up on the Sb-700. If you stick to using manual mode while shooting for a couple hours, you'll catch on really quickly. I usually have better luck in manual mode when shooting off camera, but I suppose it depends on what you're shooting.
This is what I usually do when doing a quick on-location lighting set up: Figure out the best setting for the ambient light with the flash(es) turned off, then turn them on set to the lowest power and move up the power on the flash unit up until you like what you're seeing. Then check out your histogram while reviewing the shots.
After doing this a few times, you'll get better at estimating what to set your flash too.
I shoot a venue where I almost always set my flash to 1/16, my camera's shutter speed to 1/60th, my aperture to f2.8 and my iso to 2500, but I got to these setting by doing what I recommended first.
Canon's ST-E2 is so underwelming (IMO) that I keep forgetting about Nikon's far superior (also IMO) SU-800.
Use it first. If you have reached the limit, than you can get the Pocket Wizard.
(I used to work near Onalaska, WA, and still get down there from time to time. Wisconsin? Not so much.)