Kaden K. Online Upload & Sell: Off
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Thanks AuntiPode. Glad to see you are getting into alternate processes. The involvement of
photographers around the world is growing (mainly in Western and Eastern Europe). Kind of
a mini explosion; it remains still a small (but highly literate) community at this point in time.
1. Both developer and toner will cool the image color off. I personally prefer it slightly warm.
The golden color is attractive just like molasses. Obviously the long you tone it the color shifts
and acquires different nuances. I like toning it just slightly when it comes to POP (Print Out
Paper like collodio chloride). Other processes such as albumen I like to leave it into gold
chloride for longer.
2. All types of substrata will deteriorate because of pollutants in the air. Not flammable like
nitrocellulose at all and usually I would wax the print (a very precise process not to damage
the print). It is a mix of bees wax and lavender, which leaves a great smell. The build of wax
will beautifully deepen the print tones and also protects the print.
Btw, from a conservation POV there are ways of slowing down the image deterioration. Fixing
it for the right amount of time is crucial. Using acid free paper is also a must. To prevent
moisture museum conservators are using metallic tapes (better than the best preservation
tapes, like P90) to mount the image. It can alternatively be placed into a mylar holder, and a
sort of thin plastic like cloth on the back of the image in framing which absorbs moisture, called "corrosion intercept". Corrosion intercept was initially developed for space ships and used also
to preserve silver based objects, but is also great for non-ferrous objects.
Here is a write up on it: http://www.interceptshrinkfilm.com/pdfs/TB11.pdf
Hope this makes sense. Probably a little more than you expected. 
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