Shots from the well expired (2005) roll are hazy, need some tweaking in Photoshop to bring the color out. This despite the claim from the seller that the roll was always frozen.
kwoodard wrote:
I believe you may need one of these... The other option is the butt of the knife unscrews and a shim is put in place. If memory serves, with use, the bone wears down and becomes loose. I want to say that is why some folks insert leather spacers in their designs. Many knife forums out there... Hope Buddy has more concrete info for you. Beautiful knife. Definitely a keeper.
Oosty wrote:
Very nice images everyone. For some reason I'm too busy (lazy?) to get the camera out and get snapping but I browse, without comment, regularly to keep up.
George, that knife looks a lot like an old Puma hunting knife, made in Germany in the 1950's many of which were sold in South Africa. Looking at it I guess the handle was attached on a threaded tang using a special tool.
Kevin and Peter - thanks for the image of the tool and link to the Puma site. My dad definitely had it in the late '50's. He may have picked it up on one of his port calls in the Navy or at the local Sears Roebuck . He passed away when I was in high school so I will really never know. I can make my own story right?
I haven't looked at the many knife forums yet. Last time I went down a forum rabbit hole was this one. That cost me a lot
Kevin and Peter - thanks for the image of the tool and link to the Puma site. My dad definitely had it in the late '50's. He may have picked it up on one of his port calls in the Navy or at the local Sears Roebuck . He passed away when I was in high school so I will really never know. I can make my own story right?
I haven't looked at the many knife forums yet. Last time I went down a forum rabbit hole was this one. That cost me a lot
I'll add my second (or third) to what Kevin and Peter said. Kevin's pics show the tool, You can probably make one from an old screwdriver. Using that and liberal use of penetrating oil should free it. Then a shim or spacer to reassemble!
Ken Hill wrote:
I'll add my second (or third) to what Kevin and Peter said. Kevin's pics show the tool, You can probably make one from an old screwdriver. Using that and liberal use of penetrating oil should free it. Then a shim or spacer to reassemble!
Well Jay, the decade and a half that roll sat around did away with the green I really don't like to tweak too much in terms of film color in Photoshop.
Another Ektachrome 100GX shot, this time in 35mm and seems to have preserved its chemistry better than the 120 rolls I got hold of. Only a bit of tweaking in Photoshop. This was with FM and the 10.5cm f2.5 P tick mark lens.
gbohannon wrote:
Posting for Buddy. If others feel this is off thread too much please let me know. But I figured it may be of interest given our diverse hobbies that we all have.
The overall length is almost 11". Blade length is 6". As you can see this knife has seen heavy use. But it keeps an edge like no other I have. Razor sharp and has a ton of character. Like I said, it was my fathers and I would like to make sure it is able to be passed on to my son. But would also like to use it as an everyday knife for camping back country. I am already working on making a new leather sheath. That part I can handle
My main question is about how to maintain the handle or if I should be concerned. Sort of hard to see from the picture, but the main handle is two pieces of stag horn, with layers of other material at the ends. The pommel is somewhat loose and will twist about 1/8 turn either way. At the end it appears to be a two prong threaded piece and assuming the end of the tang is threaded. Second image shows this. If you twist the end, both the silver pommel and the two prong circle section turn together, but the center most piece does not. That is why I think it may be threaded.
I do not want to try to remove it without really knowing how it is attached. I don't want to make it worse.
Do you have any thoughts? Try to remove and perhaps use two part epoxy? Or just leave it like it is?
Do you think the end is threaded or compression fitted?
Thanks Buddy.
George
Edit: Oh yeah... Shot with the Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/3.5 ...Show more →
Peter and Kevin seem to be on the money here. Up until now I wasn't aware of these Puma knives from Solingen, but when I see the prices on those, it would definately be worth to get that knife grip sorted and maybe give the blade a polish, retaining the evidence of use, but return some shine to that blade. Rubbing it with linen and some polishing compound (I use Meguiars or Mellerud but there are other manufacturers making similar products, so chances are you have something suitable at home), then with some tissue paper and polishing compound and finally rub it with clean tissue paper until it really shines.
I got a picture of a knife blade with a very interesting structure, but with a mirror finish to it. Will post it after I tried to explain how would go about restoring that knife grip.
As for the knife handle, the various coloured discs at the back appear to be alternating pieces of leather and (stag horn?). Then there is the prominent metal pommel, which appears to have been secured with a special propriatary nut system on, what will most likely be as you suspect, a threaded section of the knife tang, welded to the tang itself,
Personally I would just take a screwdriver in the right size and cut out a section in the center so I end up with the tool required to unscrew that nut.
From there on, I would add a single piece of leather in roughly the approrpiate size and sand down/polish it until it's perfectly flush with the other leather spacers back there. Then re-attach the pommel and special nut and pull it tight to ensure nothing moves or twists anymore.
the solitaire wrote:
Peter and Kevin seem to be on the money here. Up until now I wasn't aware of these Puma knives from Solingen, but when I see the prices on those, it would definately be worth to get that knife grip sorted and maybe give the blade a polish, retaining the evidence of use, but return some shine to that blade. Rubbing it with linen and some polishing compound (I use Meguiars or Mellerud but there are other manufacturers making similar products, so chances are you have something suitable at home), then with some tissue paper and polishing compound and finally rub it with clean tissue paper until it really shines.
I got a picture of a knife blade with a very interesting structure, but with a mirror finish to it. Will post it after I tried to explain how would go about restoring that knife grip.
As for the knife handle, the various coloured discs at the back appear to be alternating pieces of leather and (stag horn?). Then there is the prominent metal pommel, which appears to have been secured with a special propriatary nut system on, what will most likely be as you suspect, a threaded section of the knife tang, welded to the tang itself,
Personally I would just take a screwdriver in the right size and cut out a section in the center so I end up with the tool required to unscrew that nut.
From there on, I would add a single piece of leather in roughly the approrpiate size and sand down/polish it until it's perfectly flush with the other leather spacers back there. Then re-attach the pommel and special nut and pull it tight to ensure nothing moves or twists anymore.
^^^
George it might take a weekend of soaking. Patience! Buddy love the 550 cord colors. Used the same cord on my cane after I was allowed to start walking. 🤗🤔🤭
Perhaps among this group some may be wondering, and even readying themselves to inquire: "Glen, my good man, what glories are there to be found abstractly reflected in the waters at Royston beach?" Well, I'm so very glad you found it within you to consider this profound question! Here below you are invited to discover the answer to your perspicacious query, with compliments from the 135 f/2.8 QC.
Photos from the wooden and antique boat gathering in Cathlamet WA last weekend. All taken with my D700 and either a 50mm f1.4 AI-S or a 28mm f3.5 AI'd. All Jpeg's SOOC except for some cropping on the first photo
