rafaelcasd wrote:
Dean, the 55mm 1.2 does fine on sensors but it looks remarkably nice on film. I don't have the Coolscan 5000 but I have th cheaper slower V ED. Will look for ways to resurrect it.
Rafael, I have the IV ED and it works perfectly with VueScan software on my Mac. Their site lists the V ED as supported as well.
gbohannon wrote:
Man you are killing me with those shots Kristian! I am melting over here with upper 90's temperatures this week. Would love to be in a cool mountain stream.
Sorry bout that George. We had 4 degrees celsius, think about 40 degrees Fahrenheit and sometimes rain with some snow in it, this was the 2nd of july....cold summer. Back home in south Sweden we are having it just bit warmer now, june was really warm but now it's just windy and a lot of rain..
If the weather gets better me and a friend will go on a short camping trip by the end of the week...
leighton w wrote:
Don't think they make that one anymore. How long is it?
EDIT: Found it on Amazon.
The whole thing about tenkara brings me back to childhood. I made my own little rods by some willow tree branches. Then I just had a line and a hook with a worm on it. Then I just let the line go with flow of the water and by the blink of an eye there sat a little brownie. Not quite like a traditional tenkara but wow, it couldn't be more thrilling for a 10-year old
bobbelbob wrote:
The whole thing about tenkara brings me back to childhood. I made my own little rods by some willow tree branches. Then I just had a line and a hook with a worm on it. Then I just let the line go with flow of the water and by the blink of an eye there sat a little brownie. Not quite like a traditional tenkara but wow, it couldn't be more thrilling for a 10-year old
Same here. They are just carbon fiber cane poles to me
gbohannon wrote:
Same here. They are just carbon fiber cane poles to me
G
Over here what was old is now new again. I took my dads old Wright & Mcgill Eagle Claw fiberglass fly rod to a shop last summer to see if I could get a guide replaced that had come unwrapped. The guy there said that the old fiberglass rods were the hot thing again. Guess these folks shoot manual focus glass too
Wista SP, Nikkor-SW 75mm f4.5, Tiffen Orange #21 filter, TMax 100. Developed in Cinestill Df96 monobath, in the SP-445 tank.
When completed in 1790, it was the largest private home in the country. Lots to photograph there, some of the trees are over 200 years old, and I want to go back to do an architectural shot of the "Orangery" a greenhouse where oranges were grown in the winter. The mansion and the grounds are maintained (and very well too!) by the National Park Service.
At one time during its peak in the first half of the 19th century the grounds covered over 25,000 acres and was among Maryland's largest slave-holding estates. There were orchards, ironworks, coal mining, marble quarries and mills on the grounds. The mansion was the residence of the state governor, Charles Carnan Ridgely, during the 1820s. The grandeur of the mansion and economic activity declined after the civil war.
The National Park Service took it over and has been running it since 1970s. While tours inside the mansion are not happening right now due to the pandemic, the grounds are open and very pleasant to hang around during daytime hours. Social distancing was not an issue, very few souls to be seen.
Wista SP, Nikkor-SW 75mm f4.5, Tiffen Orange #21 filter, TMax 100. Developed in Cinestill Df96 monobath, in the SP-445 tank.
When completed in 1790, it was the largest private home in the country. Lots to photograph there, some of the trees are over 200 years old, and I want to go back to do an architectural shot of the "Orangery" a greenhouse where oranges were grown in the winter. The mansion and the grounds are maintained (and very well too!) by the National Park Service.
At one time during its peak in the first half of the 19th century the grounds covered over 25,000 acres and among Maryland's largest slave-holding estates. There were orchards, ironworks, coal mining, marble quarries and mills on the grounds. The mansion was the residence of the state governor, Charles Carnan Ridgely, during the 1820s. The grandeur of the mansion and economic activity declined after the civil war.
The National Park Service took it over and has been running it since 1970s. While tours inside the mansion are not happening right now due to the pandemic, the grounds are open and very pleasant to hang around during daytime hours. Social distancing was not an issue, very few souls to be seen....Show more →
I have been injoying the conversation and pictures of late.
Those dark, river pools and streams remind me so much of Scotland Kristian.
Managed a short trip to the south coast yesterday. Busy working on some infrared pictures from a walk along the promendade.
In the meantime I played with the 55/2.8 micro and PK-12 tube today. An obliging 'Cabbage White' landed on some Verbena.
George, installed a replacement bag bellows in the Wista. The rise is as far up as it could go, but no tilt. The 75 f4.5 Nikkor is on a recessed board.
The moth and the colours are amazing Colin! And yes, those scenes from Kristian are indeed bucolic. Could use some tranquility and colours whereever they come from in these times.
I have been injoying the conversation and pictures of late.
Those dark, river pools and streams remind me so much of Scotland Kristian.
Managed a short trip to the south coast yesterday. Busy working on some infrared pictures from a walk along the promendade.
In the meantime I played with the 55/2.8 micro and PK-12 tube today. An obliging 'Cabbage White' landed on some Verbena.
Get the correct tools (JIS screwdrivers), take pics and notes, use infinity position as a reference. Make marks as Richard shows. It is a real pain if you mess up helical separation to get things back right. If it is totally dried out and locked up loosen the helicoids with some rubbing alcohol first so you are able to move it enough to be able to work from a known position like infinity. I’ve done 2 or 3 of these 105 f1.8’s they are not too difficult.
So I learned from this web page that removing one tiny screw allows you to unscrew the front barrel and the entire optical assembly can be lifted out. Doing that allowed me to just wash the old grease out with carb cleaner and then substitute a thick gear oil for the grease. I didn't even try to disassemble the helicoid. As little as I use the lens I think the oil will be just fine.
While I was messing with it I noticed that there was some fungus growth, so I fooled around a bit and figured out the the optical section comes apart simply by unscrewing into two glued-together sealed units. To my good fortune all the fungus was on the outside surfaces of these sealed units. It all went back together and actually focuses smother that I ever remember. Sharpness after all the trauma I inflicted on it seems unaffected.
This is full frame with my D700 at f4. Focus point was the whiskers.
Two shots from this morning's sunrise at Lake McDonald, Glacier Nat'l Park, Both with my Sony A7RIII using the Nikkor 35mm f2 AIS on a Kipon adapter. I think I was using f11. I was up there with my daughter camping and she pulled me out of a warm sleeping bag for this after a lightening/thunder storm during the night.
The first is an HDR of 5 exposures, the second, a single exposure. Yes, there is some ghosting on that second one. I was also using a Loxia 25mm f2.4 - great sunstars. I'll post those on the Sony Loxia site later.
These were just 2 quick works-ups.
We were hoping to see the comet earlier, before the sunrise really came on, but couldn't find it - maybe behind the clouds.
Looks nice. You can’t really get to all of the helicals that way but you can probably work it in a bit with use. There is another set in the focus ring as well that are probably dry but won’t stop you from focusing. The split where the front element group separates is convenient as it does let you get to the glass on both sides of the iris where you are most likely to need to clean. Gear oil is probably ok, but outgassing from lubricants can haze optical elements. Maybe not an issue with that lens since the optical block is one piece.
Elkins45 wrote:
So I learned from this web page that removing one tiny screw allows you to unscrew the front barrel and the entire optical assembly can be lifted out. Doing that allowed me to just wash the old grease out with carb cleaner and then substitute a thick gear oil for the grease. I didn't even try to disassemble the helicoid. As little as I use the lens I think the oil will be just fine.
While I was messing with it I noticed that there was some fungus growth, so I fooled around a bit and figured out the the optical section comes apart simply by unscrewing into two glued-together sealed units. To my good fortune all the fungus was on the outside surfaces of these sealed units. It all went back together and actually focuses smother that I ever remember. Sharpness after all the trauma I inflicted on it seems unaffected.
This is full frame with my D700 at f4. Focus point was the whiskers.
Too bad the comet was hiding. That would have been an awesome sight.
Thanks for thinking of me
Jack
graytrekker wrote:
For Jack:
Two shots from this morning's sunrise at Lake McDonald, Glacier Nat'l Park, Both with my Sony A7RIII using the Nikkor 35mm f2 AIS on a Kipon adapter. I think I was using f11. I was up there with my daughter camping and she pulled me out of a warm sleeping bag for this after a lightening/thunder storm during the night.
The first is an HDR of 5 exposures, the second, a single exposure. Yes, there is some ghosting on that second one. I was also using a Loxia 25mm f2.4 - great sunstars. I'll post those on the Sony Loxia site later.
These were just 2 quick works-ups.
We were hoping to see the comet earlier, before the sunrise really came on, but couldn't find it - maybe behind the clouds.
