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Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread

  
 
uhoh7
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p.988 #1 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


I usually shoot in "A" with the M9, and don't allow it over 800. I just watch the shutter in the finder and usually adjust aperture if I need faster, usually for water, which I prefer to freeze.

However, I have the auto exposure set to - 2/3, so I don't blow the highlights.

Great to hear the various methods



Sep 07, 2014 at 07:30 PM
KatieInTexas
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p.988 #2 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Very interesting to read everyone's method of shooting. I currently am using a set ISO (not auto) and aperture priority and simply adjust EC to my liking. I have and will occasionally use auto ISO when I know I'll be moving in and out of lighting conditions and want to shoot on the fly.







Sep 07, 2014 at 07:58 PM
burningheart
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p.988 #3 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


ricardovaste wrote:
@edward burningheart @airfrogusmc Interesting! Any reason why you two don't use autoISO in M mode? Do you just not like knowing what ISO it's choosing, or you want to have a specific look to an image (eg low ISO, better colours etc)? I only recently discovered it with my Sony but wouldn't want to shoot any other way now, gives me the control I like anyway.


On my DSLrs I shoot aperture priority with ISO set to my choosing. Occasionally I would switch to manual mode. I prefer to shoot at the lowest ISOs available when feasable. The one exception is my 5D MKII which I shoot at ISO 160 which supposedly has lower noise. Using the monochrom I find going fully manual is easier for me. Though I typically shoot scenics and historical type buildings speed is not an issue.



Sep 07, 2014 at 08:33 PM
Gary Clennan
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p.988 #4 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread








21SEM






35cron asph






35cron asph






35cron asph






35cron asph




Sep 07, 2014 at 09:09 PM
tophoto.
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p.988 #5 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Tom Barrows by Thomas O'Connell, on Flickr

90 cron pre asph e55



Sep 07, 2014 at 09:58 PM
airfrogusmc
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p.988 #6 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


KatieInTexas wrote:
Very interesting to read everyone's method of shooting. I currently am using a set ISO (not auto) and aperture priority and simply adjust EC to my liking. I have and will occasionally use auto ISO when I know I'll be moving in and out of lighting conditions and want to shoot on the fly.


Perfect spot for the flare Katie...



Sep 07, 2014 at 10:17 PM
adamdewilde
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p.988 #7 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Mescalamba wrote:
In person.




Yeah I was also there for two weeks.. I ran into someone who knew what Leica cameras were, and he chatted me up.
Actually I was running around with two M cameras around my neck.



Sep 07, 2014 at 11:55 PM
ricardovaste
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p.988 #8 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


@Gary: Great series! It almost seems familiar but not too familiar, where are you here??

burningheart wrote:
On my DSLrs I shoot aperture priority with ISO set to my choosing. Occasionally I would switch to manual mode. I prefer to shoot at the lowest ISOs available when feasable. The one exception is my 5D MKII which I shoot at ISO 160 which supposedly has lower noise. Using the monochrom I find going fully manual is easier for me. Though I typically shoot scenics and historical type buildings speed is not an issue.


It's funny, the way I use my DSLR's is completely different to how I've described in this discussion, closer to what you do. With them, I am mostly in M mode or A mode but always with AEL Spot Lock enabled (so complete control and flexibility). I'd absolutely never use autoISO with those. Mostly because the difference between ISO 200 and even ISO 400-800 can be quite big, especially when it comes to colour. So I require that control (for weddings). It's also a lot more controlled, so I might be in a space for a long time or doing a sequence of images which should all have equal exposure values for consistency (and makes editing easier of course).

Whereas with a "smaller camera", eg the Leica, it's really only personal stuff. So absolute consistency isn't important. Nor is colour, as I'm 90-95% B&W for that. But ease of use is important, so just having the camera work at the settings I want it to is above all the other stuff... and really, as mentioned, I have a huge amount of control even if still using AutoISO. It's all intuitive too, no menu diving or fiddly controls.

Interesting to know how you all use them though, I don't think any of us are all that far apart, we just use them for different things and enjoy different ways of working



Sep 08, 2014 at 06:58 AM
Gary Clennan
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p.988 #9 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


ricardovaste wrote:
@Gary: Great series! It almost seems familiar but not too familiar, where are you here??


Thanks Richard. This set was taken at (or near) Fisherman's Bastion on Castle Hill in Budapest.



Sep 08, 2014 at 09:07 AM
uhoh7
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p.988 #10 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Circ Hop
Chapter 3

We had waltzed up the sheep circ:

L1019951 by unoh7, 28 cron f/13
and made it to the col leading to the last circ in our loop, Saphire Circ

Looking for the first time at Circ Lake

L1019977 by unoh7, SEM 21 f/9.5

and just to the left

L1019972 by unoh7, SEM 21 f/8

above Circ Lake

L1019982 by unoh7, 50cron f/8

Circ, Saphire and Cove lake

L1019975 by unoh7, SEm 21 f/5.7

Head of Circ lake:

L1019988 by unoh7, 50 cron f/8


L1020011 by unoh7, SEM 21 f/4.8

Saphire Lake:

L1020009 by unoh7, SEM 21 f/4.8


L1020021 by unoh7, SEM 21 f/4

Cove Lake:

L1020024 by unoh7, SEM 21 f/9.5

Next up: last chapter
the struggle home.



Sep 08, 2014 at 12:53 PM
 


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ricardovaste
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p.988 #11 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Gary Clennan wrote:
Thanks Richard. This set was taken at (or near) Fisherman's Bastion on Castle Hill in Budapest.


Oh that might explain it then, my partner visited Budapest a couple of years ago with her family... She was equipped with a Leica Minilux though, so hers look a little different to yours! (Still a really nice lens though).

Just found a 50/1.5 Nokton in the UK so I decided to order, even though I'm happy to just live at 35mm, though it might be fun to play with on occasion, and it's not like it's going to lose value anytime soon. I figure I'll have to code it though, so it brings up the right framelines.



Sep 08, 2014 at 04:55 PM
Gary Clennan
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p.988 #12 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Richard - is the 50 Nokton an ltm mount version? If so, you can always buy an adapter which already has the grooves for the coding milled into the flange.


Sep 08, 2014 at 05:01 PM
ricardovaste
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p.988 #13 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Gary Clennan wrote:
Richard - is the 50 Nokton an ltm mount version? If so, you can always buy an adapter which already has the grooves for the coding milled into the flange.


Nope, it's the M version, so slightly more difficult I guess . I'll see though, coding might not be essential...



Sep 08, 2014 at 05:11 PM
rscheffler
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p.988 #14 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Pretty sure it's the lens mount flange that brings up the correct frame lines on the M240, just as with every past M camera.

I just messed around with manual code settings on the M240 and the frame lines don't change from what I had mounted (28 Cron), for example, if I set it to a 50mm lens instead.

I don't think you need to worry about coding the Nokton. I have the LTM version and never bothered with it. Generally it's not critical for 50mm lenses. It will be convenient, however, for differentiating between your lenses when you edit/review images.



Sep 08, 2014 at 07:06 PM
burningheart
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p.988 #15 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


1st Video class tonight cancelled because it is a snow day. Okay it sounds better than the instructor was called out of town, on the other hand it is snowing. Anways a few shots from a couple of storms I was driving through over the last couple of weeks.

Lux 50






APO 90






ZM 35/2






Voigtlander 15 -from a different storm














Sep 08, 2014 at 07:35 PM
Planetwide
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p.988 #16 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Cross post from another thread.








Sep 08, 2014 at 07:47 PM
burningheart
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p.988 #17 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


From the Ukrainian Historical Village just a few hours prior to the 1st storm

ZM 35/2






Lux 50






APO 90









Sep 08, 2014 at 07:55 PM
Gary Clennan
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p.988 #18 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Andrew - great to see you posting and nice shot.
Robert - I love capturing storms and these pics show a good variety. The weather has been quite wonky lately - especially the darn snow that is falling at the moment! PS - time for a sensor clean?



Sep 08, 2014 at 08:31 PM
lostinjapan
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p.988 #19 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


ricardovaste wrote:
Nope, it's the M version, so slightly more difficult I guess . I'll see though, coding might not be essential...


I have this lens and it works very very well. I coded it as a pre ASPH 50 and it works very very well. It is as accurate as my 50ASPH and nearly as sharp wide open. I think you will like this lens.

Ryan





Sep 08, 2014 at 09:07 PM
rscheffler
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p.988 #20 · Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread


Interesting discussion about exposure. I'm kind of old school in this respect and prefer to set everything manually if time and conditions allow. Sometimes I'll do aperture priority, but so far haven't ventured into auto ISO. This is for both my DSLR and Leica systems.

Touching on what Richard mentioned, if it's a work situation, then I'm thinking 'production efficiencies' and want to find the correct manual settings as quickly as possible and keep them locked in for faster processing later. For example, when I shoot football, like the game yesterday, where it was full sun most of the time, I have a standardized exposure for the sunny side and one for the backlit side. I try to avoid shooting in cross light if possible. When it's sunny, or other situations with consistent light, my opinion is there is zero need for auto exposure modes because the light does not change, therefore why should the exposure? But of course, if moving from sunny side to backlit side, of course it changes. On a walking tour such as what Charlie has been posting recently, I'd leave the camera at ISO 200 and any combination of 1/500 f/8 or f/9.5 (I find I have to give the 28 Cron about a half stop more exposure than the 21 SEM or 50 Lux ASPH, or pretty much any other lens).

With the M9 I kept ISO at 160 or 640 and pushed in post as needed. With the M240 I try to keep it at 200 whenever possible and at 1000 for low light situations. I'll go higher than 1000 as the situation warrants and if I feel I can live with the slower fps rate and buffer depth. But usually I opt for 1000 for the faster shooting ability.

Richard, the M240 tolerates over exposure better than the M9 did and underexposure somewhat less gracefully. Shadows of ISO 200 files pushed 3+ stops will look pretty green, which is what that Lightroom plug-in fixes. As the ISO increases, it takes less push in post to reveal the green shift, though shooting at ISO 1250 and higher eliminates it too.

28 Cron Test

So with the most absolutely perfect summer day of the summer thus far, IMO (my sympathy to the folks out in snowy Alberta), I put off many client obligations and went out to shoot a 'quick' 28 Cron on M9 vs. M240 test that seemed to be a topic of interest in the "M240 purchase" thread.

When I get the time, I'll organize the images, but here's what I noticed so far:

- My $5 vented off-brand hood probably causes some vignetting and probably screwed up this aspect of the results, but it's on all of the test images, therefore at least it's consistent.
- Cameras were set to DNG + Jpeg Fine, all manual settings and base ISO for each and manual WB (5200K). I shot the Jpegs in addition to the DNGs to see what Leica's in-camera profile is, rather than seeing Adobe's interpretation of Leica's profile in Lightroom.
- At the identical WB setting, the M9 is a lot cooler, or one could say the M240 is a lot warmer.
- All image sets were shot coded and uncoded on both cameras. The M240 shows less difference between coded and uncoded settings. There is much less color shift and color quality is nearly identical. Vignetting is a bit stronger if uncoded. On the M9, there's a bigger difference in all these qualities. There's greater color shift uncoded and WB/color quality also changes more if uncoded, to a slight magenta tinge. Vignetting also increases.
- The M240 images seem to be every so slightly wider in view, showing slightly more content, hinting at a slightly larger sensor size.
- Looking at the Jpegs, ignoring color/WB differences, overall tonality isn't all that different. Shadow values are quite similar, mid tones, highlight.... at least when shot at f/4 and more stopped down. At f/2 the differences between the M9 and M240 images are significant. Again, this is based on the OOC Jpegs. I haven't yet looked closely at the DNGs. The f/2 M9 images have great contrast and 'sparkle' in the mid tones. The M240 looks quite drab and dull, especially in mid tone and highlight values, as if they were pulled back with excessive highlight recovery. This can be clearly seen in a 'white wall' test where the M240's f/2 and f/2.8 images, to a lesser degree, show the highlight values pulled farther to the left in the histogram compared to the M9. Stop down past f/4 and the histograms from each camera look very similar, as do the images.
- The f/2 white wall test shows an interesting vignetting 'reversal' between the M9 and M240. In the M9's f/2 images, vignetting seems pretty uniform in all directions, from side to side, top to bottom, though the upper part of the image (shot horizontally) seems to have slightly stronger vignetting than the bottom. Normally this would be where the sky is in a landscape... With the M240, the bottom of the image is noticeably darker and the top lighter than the M9. As the lens is stopped down, this difference between the M9 and M240 decreases pretty quickly and is pretty difficult to see after f/4. At f/11 the M9 seems to have a touch stronger vignetting all around. Note that the difference in odd M240 vignetting quality is consistent whether coding is on or off.
- M240 and 28 Cron shot without coding doesn't seem to suffer much from noticeable color shift in most situations and it could be an option if desiring slightly stronger vignetting character. I wouldn't advise it with the M9 due to stronger color shift. That said I was never really crazy about the 28 Cron's coding on the M9, which for me often resulted in green/cyan shift in the lower left and lower right corners.

I might reshoot the test again without a hood, just to eliminate it as a variable for the wider open scenes, though I don't think it will make a significant difference. And I still have to look at the DNGs.

But thus far, if shooting the lens wide open for 'character' images, the M9 will give the aesthetically more pleasing result SOOC. The M240's Jpegs at f/2 look dull in the mid tones and highlights. I put a couple of the DNGs in Lightroom and can tweak the M240 f/2 files to result in similar mid tones and highlight pop, but the odd vignetting 'reversal' remains. I also think color/luminosity mapping is different between the cameras. Blue sky is deeper in M9 images vs. M240. I have to pull back blue luminance in LR ~20 points and add a vignette to the top of the image to get a similar feel.

Bottom line, from initial impressions, it seems the M240's 28 Cron profile is wonky for f/2-2.8. Beyond f/4 the Cron's look on both cameras evens up very closely beyond basic WB differences.



Sep 08, 2014 at 09:15 PM
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