edwardkaraa wrote: adamdewilde wroteedwardkaraa wroteA few scans from my latest roll of Fuji Natura 1600.Speaking of film, I like your Natura 1600 shots. Nice shots overall BTW. But about the film itself, I actually don't know how much editing of the colours you did on the computer (as they look great when you use the film).. But I find most Fuji film to be way to green. And in the case of Natura 1600 it's really finicky with exposures. You kinda have to get it spot on, or over exposed. Under exposing and the blacks go bad and needs a LOT of work on the computer afterwards (assuming you're scanning negs). I don't use Natura.
Your shots look good (from a purely film stock perspective), so I'm curious how much PP went into the shots. Maybe your Lab is better than mine
Again, great images overall film stock aside! I quite like the happy barber and the expression from the tailor.Thank you very much Adam!
The Natura 1600 to my eyes is surprisingly fine grained, and for sure has a very low contrast. I don't know how finicky it is about underexposure, I did get two unusable shots in this roll but I'm sure they were underexposed by at least 2 stops. Speaking of labs, I found that I get better results with my new scanner (primefilm XE) and silverfast software (included) than the best local pro labs. The software has a negative scanning app with film profiles for most common emulsions. I only adjust contrast and exposure, and select between auto or no auto color. I did notice Natura required more contrast boost than with other films, and the colors are more muted but I didn't change that since I religiously don't mess with film color ...Show more →
Edward - how long approximately does it take you to scan 36?
Gary Clennan wrote: edwardkaraa wroteadamdewilde wroteedwardkaraa wroteA few scans from my latest roll of Fuji Natura 1600.Speaking of film, I like your Natura 1600 shots. Nice shots overall BTW. But about the film itself, I actually don't know how much editing of the colours you did on the computer (as they look great when you use the film).. But I find most Fuji film to be way to green. And in the case of Natura 1600 it's really finicky with exposures. You kinda have to get it spot on, or over exposed. Under exposing and the blacks go bad and needs a LOT of work on the computer afterwards (assuming you're scanning negs). I don't use Natura.
Your shots look good (from a purely film stock perspective), so I'm curious how much PP went into the shots. Maybe your Lab is better than mine
Again, great images overall film stock aside! I quite like the happy barber and the expression from the tailor.Thank you very much Adam!
The Natura 1600 to my eyes is surprisingly fine grained, and for sure has a very low contrast. I don't know how finicky it is about underexposure, I did get two unusable shots in this roll but I'm sure they were underexposed by at least 2 stops. Speaking of labs, I found that I get better results with my new scanner (primefilm XE) and silverfast software (included) than the best local pro labs. The software has a negative scanning app with film profiles for most common emulsions. I only adjust contrast and exposure, and select between auto or no auto color. I did notice Natura required more contrast boost than with other films, and the colors are more muted but I didn't change that since I religiously don't mess with film color Edward - how long approximately does it take you to scan 36?
I think about 2.5-3 hours including some adjustments, trying different film profiles... etc, so basically deliberately slow. It takes 2 minutes to scan a frame without adjustments.
But I love the romantic intent.. And I love seeing you guys shoot film. Really does inspire me to want to buy an M-A (besides they look sexy).
You should buy and use an M-A. I feel like there's only a handful of us actually doing so haha. I love my M-A!
Mine's usually loaded with Tri-X or HP5 but I'm trying some Bergger 400 right now that a friend gave me.
I've been all over the map trying to figure out what lenses I want to use on my Leicas and I think I've finally cracked it (for me). I landed on the 28 Elmarit ASPH and 50 Summarit f/2.4. To me they both have the best balance of handling / performance on both my M240 and M-A so I'm pretty happy with the setup finally.
Still have the 35 Summilux Pre-Asph which I adore the rendering style of but I'm just not into 35mm lenses right now for whatever reason. I also recently acquired a Nikon FM3A with the 45mm pancake (I know. I'm a traitor!) but man is that a sweet mechanical SLR.
Been super busy with new clients and planning my wedding and all that so I haven't had a ton of time to shoot but I'll contribute as soon as I can!
AbramG wrote: adamdewilde wroteBut I love the romantic intent.. And I love seeing you guys shoot film. Really does inspire me to want to buy an M-A (besides they look sexy).You should buy and use an M-A. I feel like there's only a handful of us actually doing so haha. I love my M-A!
Mine's usually loaded with Tri-X or HP5 but I'm trying some Bergger 400 right now that a friend gave me.
I've been all over the map trying to figure out what lenses I want to use on my Leicas and I think I've finally cracked it (for me). I landed on the 28 Elmarit ASPH and 50 Summarit f/2.4. To me they both have the best balance of handling / performance on both my M240 and M-A so I'm pretty happy with the setup finally.
Still have the 35 Summilux Pre-Asph which I adore the rendering style of but I'm just not into 35mm lenses right now for whatever reason. I also recently acquired a Nikon FM3A with the 45mm pancake (I know. I'm a traitor!) but man is that a sweet mechanical SLR.
Been super busy with new clients and planning my wedding and all that so I haven't had a ton of time to shoot but I'll contribute as soon as I can!...Show more →
Hahah... Killing me. But those M-As do look really sexy!!
Dang it. Every time I think I'm going to sell my 35 Summilux I process some film and look at the results and fall in love with it again. It's just one of those lenses that has a really special rendering aesthetic, but I feel like I've been struggling with the focal length.
All on the same roll of Tri-X, M-A and 35 Summilux Pre-Asph
edwardkaraa wrote: airfrogusmc wrotehttp://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y118/airfrogusmc/airfrogusmc034/L1003042_zpsvadcmhnx.jpgGreat portrait, Allen! There is also a really strong three dimensional rendering that I find very interesting.
Agreed!! The combo of the lovely lighting and vignette work really well. Have every intention of stealing this setup and processing..
Thanks Edward and Gordon. This is the way I shoot my formal executives. One key light. 30 X 40 soft box. In REAL close feathered and a white reflector for fill. Subject 7 ft from background. Background light with home made modifier to enhance the spot. Spot helps keep separation between BG and dark jackets and dark hair. 10 X 20 ft gray muslin. Vignette added in post also to further enhance spot. 1/180 ISO 100 and 75mm 2.5 summarit at 2.8.
That's what I do too. I'm never (90%+ of the time) taking money from my income to buy gear. It's my rule, if I want something new I have to sell something first.
edwardkaraa wrote: Gary Clennan wroteedwardkaraa wroteadamdewilde wroteedwardkaraa wroteA few scans from my latest roll of Fuji Natura 1600.Speaking of film, I like your Natura 1600 shots. Nice shots overall BTW. But about the film itself, I actually don't know how much editing of the colours you did on the computer (as they look great when you use the film).. But I find most Fuji film to be way to green. And in the case of Natura 1600 it's really finicky with exposures. You kinda have to get it spot on, or over exposed. Under exposing and the blacks go bad and needs a LOT of work on the computer afterwards (assuming you're scanning negs). I don't use Natura.
Your shots look good (from a purely film stock perspective), so I'm curious how much PP went into the shots. Maybe your Lab is better than mine
Again, great images overall film stock aside! I quite like the happy barber and the expression from the tailor.Thank you very much Adam!
The Natura 1600 to my eyes is surprisingly fine grained, and for sure has a very low contrast. I don't know how finicky it is about underexposure, I did get two unusable shots in this roll but I'm sure they were underexposed by at least 2 stops. Speaking of labs, I found that I get better results with my new scanner (primefilm XE) and silverfast software (included) than the best local pro labs. The software has a negative scanning app with film profiles for most common emulsions. I only adjust contrast and exposure, and select between auto or no auto color. I did notice Natura required more contrast boost than with other films, and the colors are more muted but I didn't change that since I religiously don't mess with film color Edward - how long approximately does it take you to scan 36?I think about 2.5-3 hours including some adjustments, trying different film profiles... etc, so basically deliberately slow. It takes 2 minutes to scan a frame without adjustments.
Edward, I'm doing all my scanning with a DSLR now, and it takes me 10 minutes to scan 36 exposures at max rez/raw.
I've been getting better results than from any commercial service barring using drum scans.
It's also made film photography more fun for me as I'm involved in more of the process. A win win if u already have a digi cam to use, and I was getting sick and tired of paying $20+ per roll plus waiting 2 weeks..
There's a whole thread on it in rangefinderforum.com. And all the film shots I've posted on this site recently have been DSLR scans.