Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
p.1027 #1Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
naturephoto1 wrote:
It would seem Sony's choice of ~2.5mm thick topping somewhat shot themselves in the foot when it comes to their own native lens designs. From what I've heard via others is that Zeiss is finding this and the short register distance quite challenging. Combined with the narrow mount diameter, just moving all of the optics farther away isn't really a feasible solution.Hi Ron. I have this option with the A7r for this glass to be replaced with a thinner covering at Camera Clinic for a cost of about 1,000 AUD. With the new bodies to be introduced, and enjoying the A7s, I have since put this on hold. The A7r and the WATE is a great setup in its own right, and is the lightest/smallest landscape/seascape combination I have had. I also have two VM-E adapters which are excellent and allow close focusing for all my M lenses. With WATE on the A7r, I can now focus down to 7", and allow for a lot more creativity. When the A7r gels, it works brilliantly with the increased DR and resolution. The A7s is more fun though... 
Congrats Allen !!!I am using the Phigment Adapter for my Leica M to Sony E-mount adapter which can provide EXIF data between the lens and the A7 series cameras. I have it set for my Minolta CLE MC 40mm f2 lens. But, I will also set the adapter for the WATE when it arrives. Though the adapter suffers from vignetting for lenses 75mm and longer due to its being designed initially for the APS-C size lenses, Paul is considering in the future to make an adapter that will cover FF but this will require retooling the adapter with a new sensor assembly....Show more →
Hi Rich, I also forget to mention that I have two Phigment vs 1.1 adapters too. They are excellent, but I did notice some vignetting with my 50 Nocti f/1.0 and 75 Lux. The tolerances are still marginally looser, and with the VM-E they very tight and solid on both the A7s and A7r.
I do apoligize for taking this thread to much OT
charles.K wrote
rscheffler wrote
Not to go too OT, but has anyone had the a7R sensor stack replaced with a physically and/or optically thinner cover glass?It would seem Sony's choice of ~2.5mm thick topping somewhat shot themselves in the foot when it comes to their own native lens designs. From what I've heard via others is that Zeiss is finding this and the short register distance quite challenging. Combined with the narrow mount diameter, just moving all of the optics farther away isn't really a feasible solution.
Congrats Allen !!!
Hi Rich, I also forget to mention that I have two Phigment vs 1.1 adapters too. They are excellent, but I did notice some vignetting with my 50 Nocti f/1.0 and 75 Lux. The tolerances are still marginally looser, and with the VM-E they very tight and solid on both the A7s and A7r.
I do apoligize for taking this thread to much OT
Nov 14, 2014 at 08:22 PM
p.1027 #3Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Shooting at high ISO is going to be the biggest adjustment and pain point for me, I think. I'm coming from a Df that can shoot ISO12,800 with relative ease. Do you guys have any tips for getting the cleanest possible shot at high ISO with the M9? A trick I've used in the past is to lower the exposure compensation by a stop or so and just fix in post, but Thorsten Overgaard recommends against this with the M9.
Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and something I'll have to become accustomed to.
Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and something I'll have to become accustomed to.
Nov 14, 2014 at 08:32 PM
p.1027 #4Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
My least expensive guitar. Fender Telecaster of the Mexican variety. Ashe body. Typical Telecaster configuration, maple wood neck and frets. Her name is Angie.
The bridge where the strings connect is frequently called an Ash tray bridge on this guitar, due to it's ledged appearance on 3 sides. Makes a great place for fingers to rest while picking.Normally, a guitar in this price range (< 500.00) is not Ashe, it would usually be Arbor wood. But this is a FSR edition, called a (Fender Special Run), so it's a bit unique in that regard being a cheaper guitar, but having the better wood body.
MM 35mm lux Faux fur backdrop
The bridge where the strings connect is frequently called an Ash tray bridge on this guitar, due to it's ledged appearance on 3 sides. Makes a great place for fingers to rest while picking.Normally, a guitar in this price range (< 500.00) is not Ashe, it would usually be Arbor wood. But this is a FSR edition, called a (Fender Special Run), so it's a bit unique in that regard being a cheaper guitar, but having the better wood body.
MM 35mm lux Faux fur backdrop
Nov 14, 2014 at 08:48 PM
p.1027 #5Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
This is my most expensive guitar. It's a PRS 408, a real beauty with flamed Maple top and Brazilian Rosewood frets and head stock. A beauty to play. Color is called Obsidian.
Nov 14, 2014 at 08:55 PM
p.1027 #6Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
I also have 3 Gibson Les Pauls, this Traditional Pro II in Vintage Sunburst:
and this Slash edition: Color Vermillion.
I'll do color shots of them soon. :-)
I didn't shoot LP number 3. She's more plain except for gold hardware. The Gibsons are all 2013 models, it just worked out that way.
and this Slash edition: Color Vermillion.
I'll do color shots of them soon. :-)
I didn't shoot LP number 3. She's more plain except for gold hardware. The Gibsons are all 2013 models, it just worked out that way.
Nov 14, 2014 at 09:03 PM
p.1027 #7Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
Nice one Doug, that PRS must've cost a fortune. Why did you decide to show them in bw? It would be nice for it to be seen in color . I have a collection myself but I'm a fender guy with the favourite being a Nocaster and 64 sunburst strat.
. I have a collection myself but I'm a fender guy with the favourite being a Nocaster and 64 sunburst strat.Nov 14, 2014 at 11:29 PM
p.1027 #8Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
shujert wrote:
Shooting at high ISO is going to be the biggest adjustment and pain point for me, I think. I'm coming from a Df that can shoot ISO12,800 with relative ease. Do you guys have any tips for getting the cleanest possible shot at high ISO with the M9? A trick I've used in the past is to lower the exposure compensation by a stop or so and just fix in post, but Thorsten Overgaard recommends against this with the M9.
Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and...Show more →
Hi Shu,
is that WO on the 35/1.2? Was it that light?
This was taken in some seriously dim conditions with the CV 50/1.1 WO
Mike Hughes by unoh7, 50 1.1 WO
Basically: reduce exposure comp to -2/3 this is what I always use. Limit ISO to 800 max. 500 is usually fine with a superspeed lens. Then push as need in LR and apply NR. That's not the only way, but it's a widely used method.
Does my shot look noisy to you guys?
My copy of the 50/1.1 is dead on calibration
Another way underrated CV lens.
Anyway Brian at Leicaplace gets clean stuff with M9 at 2k+ iso with this same lens, but I'm not sure how. He's very friendly, so don't hesitate to join there and ask.
The beauty of the 35/1.2 is you have some DOF WO.
Here is CV 35/1.2 but it was not really this bright:
L1000471 by unoh7, on Flickr
obviously any light you can find will be good. Is it greenish?
one more with bokeh
L1000446 by unoh7, on Flickr
At first I figured I'd use A7 for low light stuff. Now, believe it or not, I prefer M9! Talk about a convert
@Rich et al re nature shooting: many reasons I far prefer M9 to a7 or a7r for nature, but one of the biggest is so so simple. Infinity stop. You don't have to find infinity. It's like being given an extra week of life
@ Charles great to see you posting here on any subject Tell Marisa: I hated RF first month of hard use, then I began the slow evolution to insufferable fanboy.
Shooting at high ISO is going to be the biggest adjustment and pain point for me, I think. I'm coming from a Df that can shoot ISO12,800 with relative ease. Do you guys have any tips for getting the cleanest possible shot at high ISO with the M9? A trick I've used in the past is to lower the exposure compensation by a stop or so and just fix in post, but Thorsten Overgaard recommends against this with the M9.
Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and...Show more →
Hi Shu,
is that WO on the 35/1.2? Was it that light?
This was taken in some seriously dim conditions with the CV 50/1.1 WO
Mike Hughes by unoh7, 50 1.1 WO
Basically: reduce exposure comp to -2/3 this is what I always use. Limit ISO to 800 max. 500 is usually fine with a superspeed lens. Then push as need in LR and apply NR. That's not the only way, but it's a widely used method.
Does my shot look noisy to you guys?
My copy of the 50/1.1 is dead on calibration
Another way underrated CV lens.
Anyway Brian at Leicaplace gets clean stuff with M9 at 2k+ iso with this same lens, but I'm not sure how. He's very friendly, so don't hesitate to join there and ask.
The beauty of the 35/1.2 is you have some DOF WO.
Here is CV 35/1.2 but it was not really this bright:
L1000471 by unoh7, on Flickr
obviously any light you can find will be good. Is it greenish?
one more with bokeh
L1000446 by unoh7, on Flickr
At first I figured I'd use A7 for low light stuff. Now, believe it or not, I prefer M9! Talk about a convert
@Rich et al re nature shooting: many reasons I far prefer M9 to a7 or a7r for nature, but one of the biggest is so so simple. Infinity stop. You don't have to find infinity. It's like being given an extra week of life
@ Charles great to see you posting here on any subject
Tell Marisa: I hated RF first month of hard use, then I began the slow evolution to insufferable fanboy.Nov 15, 2014 at 01:02 AM
p.1027 #9Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
The Light"
L1021022-696.jpg by W.Utsch, on Flickr
Nov 15, 2014 at 05:24 AM
p.1027 #10Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
ririkuma, sorry, not sure your first name...
I shot some in color with 75mm cron, and I just wasn't happy how they came out. I liked the 35 lux mm shots, so decided to show those. I will try the 35 in color or try my 50 lux maybe later today and see if I can get those color shots I like... :-) So Stay tuned. The PRS was a bit pricey. But I can tell you it was not as bad as buying a 35 or 50 Lux new.... That said, the company does sell some very expensive guitars, currently called Preferred Stock/artist's packages and more. There is one prototype Santana guitar that is priced at 100K. Yeah. Seriously.
I shot some in color with 75mm cron, and I just wasn't happy how they came out. I liked the 35 lux mm shots, so decided to show those. I will try the 35 in color or try my 50 lux maybe later today and see if I can get those color shots I like... :-) So Stay tuned. The PRS was a bit pricey. But I can tell you it was not as bad as buying a 35 or 50 Lux new...
. That said, the company does sell some very expensive guitars, currently called Preferred Stock/artist's packages and more. There is one prototype Santana guitar that is priced at 100K. Yeah. Seriously.Nov 15, 2014 at 07:50 AM
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p.1027 #11Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
uhoh7 wrote:
Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and something I'll have to become accustomed to.
https://static.squarespace.com/static/536c4f36e4b06a137909abe4/t/5466b6a0e4b08c5e09d41b83/1416017569537/?format=800w&storage=localHi Shu,
is that WO on the 35/1.2? Was it that light?
This was taken in some seriously dim conditions with the CV 50/1.1 WO
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/15606342609_5a039cbd6c_b.jpg
Mike Hughes by unoh7, 50 1.1 WO
Basically: reduce exposure comp to -2/3 this is what I always use. Limit ISO to 800 max. 500 is usually fine with a superspeed lens. Then push as need in LR and apply NR. That's not the only way, but it's a widely used method.
Does my shot look noisy to you guys?
My copy of the 50/1.1 is dead on calibration
Another way underrated CV lens.
Anyway Brian at Leicaplace gets clean stuff...Show more →
Charlie,
You do not or hardly use a tripod. I am coming from an entirely different place using tripods extensively for composition, bracketing consistency, lack of motion of the camera, etc This was for using 4" X 5" cameras, Medium Format cameras, and Leica R cameras and lenses shooting as slow transparency film as possible for the conditions. It would not be uncommon for me to shoot longer than 1 to 10 second exposures as an example with 4" x 5" cameras to maintain DOF with Grad filters, etc. I used and still use much the same techniques for my Medium Format and Leica R cameras as well as my digital shooting as with the A7r and other cameras to this day.
Rich
shujert wrote
Shooting at high ISO is going to be the biggest adjustment and pain point for me, I think. I'm coming from a Df that can shoot ISO12,800 with relative ease. Do you guys have any tips for getting the cleanest possible shot at high ISO with the M9? A trick I've used in the past is to lower the exposure compensation by a stop or so and just fix in post, but Thorsten Overgaard recommends against this with the M9.Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and something I'll have to become accustomed to.
https://static.squarespace.com/static/536c4f36e4b06a137909abe4/t/5466b6a0e4b08c5e09d41b83/1416017569537/?format=800w&storage=local
is that WO on the 35/1.2? Was it that light?
This was taken in some seriously dim conditions with the CV 50/1.1 WO
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/15606342609_5a039cbd6c_b.jpg
Mike Hughes by unoh7, 50 1.1 WO
Basically: reduce exposure comp to -2/3 this is what I always use. Limit ISO to 800 max. 500 is usually fine with a superspeed lens. Then push as need in LR and apply NR. That's not the only way, but it's a widely used method.
Does my shot look noisy to you guys?
My copy of the 50/1.1 is dead on calibration
Another way underrated CV lens.
Anyway Brian at Leicaplace gets clean stuff...Show more →
Charlie,
You do not or hardly use a tripod. I am coming from an entirely different place using tripods extensively for composition, bracketing consistency, lack of motion of the camera, etc This was for using 4" X 5" cameras, Medium Format cameras, and Leica R cameras and lenses shooting as slow transparency film as possible for the conditions. It would not be uncommon for me to shoot longer than 1 to 10 second exposures as an example with 4" x 5" cameras to maintain DOF with Grad filters, etc. I used and still use much the same techniques for my Medium Format and Leica R cameras as well as my digital shooting as with the A7r and other cameras to this day.
Rich
Nov 15, 2014 at 11:58 AM
p.1027 #12Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
shujert wrote:
Shooting at high ISO is going to be the biggest adjustment and pain point for me, I think. I'm coming from a Df that can shoot ISO12,800 with relative ease. Do you guys have any tips for getting the cleanest possible shot at high ISO with the M9? A trick I've used in the past is to lower the exposure compensation by a stop or so and just fix in post, but Thorsten Overgaard recommends against this with the M9.
Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and...Show more →
I know what you mean... I don't really worry about using my 1DX at 3200+ but with the M9 it was always a matter of finding the right balance between high enough shutter speed and not too high ISO. It's a reason IMO for buying the fastest lenses you can afford.
The M9 is particular in low light situations, and is one of the major complaints about it... The cleaner the light (broader spectrum), the better it will be. But, often that's not possible and you'll probably notice splotchy skin tones where some areas are stubbornly red/magenta. The easiest solution is to convert to B&W.
Perhaps a year or two ago we had a discussion here, and also at the Leica User Forum, and was blogged by Jim Kasson, who did a very methodical review, that there is no quantifiable advantage to setting the M9's ISO value above 640. Between 160-640 there is a very slight, hardly perceptible advantage to setting ISO in-camera. Beyond 640, one can instead leave the camera at 640 and push the DNGs in post. Apps such as LR have better NR capability than whatever Leica applies to the files in-camera. The additional benefit to this approach is that you will be able to push exposure by only as much as really needed vs. estimating the ISO value you expect to need while shooting, which might end up being higher than necessary, resulting in greater noise and lower dynamic range. A disadvantage of this approach is that previews on the LCD will be quite dark and scary looking.
The M240 is better with higher ISO performance. In the 1600-3200 range it looks a lot more like contemporary DSLRs. The luminance grain is finer and colors don't tend to be splotch like with the M9. That said, at least with mine, at 3200 banding starts to become evident, something I don't have to worry about with the 1DX.
Unfortunately there is no easy low light, high ISO solution with the M9...
When it comes to situations around the home, you have control over what you're using for lighting fixtures, or more specifically, the kinds of bulbs used. It may be an opportunity to explore whether there are brighter and broader spectrum bulb options available.
Charles - thanks for the info and insight. I agree that service is a critical aspect to the usability of a system and it's unfortunate that Leica lags tremendously in this respect, with very inconsistent service quality around the world. It's just not realistic to expect repairs to be done in Germany for customers outside the EU. Repair service is another reason I'm sticking with a dual system kit for the foreseeable future. Canon's CPS service is very fast, well priced and here in Canada they've made considerable improvements to service quality over the last 5-10 years.
That said, I've been relatively happy with Leica NJ's service. In the past 6 months I've visited them twice in-person for same-day servicing of the M240. Both times were for user induced problems. The first was a stubborn spot on the sensor that I wasn't able to remove (though this wasn't necessarily my fault). The second time I was careless with the camera and the RF was knocked out of alignment. It was explained to me by the very helpful and friendly Leica CSR that as of the M240, Leica as established a very strict set of inspection and service requirements for any M240 servicing. Even for something as simple as a sensor cleaning, the camera must go through a bank of tests and adjustments. And that is done on a 'special machine' which I interpret as meaning something that allows much more precise calibration. It involves both the RF and sensor alignment. My guess is that the fledgling Leica office in Australia does not have this machine. Where Leica NJ is not so great is lens service turnaround... at 1-2 months.
M240 & 90 Summarit, ZM50/2, 90, 28 Cron
Shooting at high ISO is going to be the biggest adjustment and pain point for me, I think. I'm coming from a Df that can shoot ISO12,800 with relative ease. Do you guys have any tips for getting the cleanest possible shot at high ISO with the M9? A trick I've used in the past is to lower the exposure compensation by a stop or so and just fix in post, but Thorsten Overgaard recommends against this with the M9.
Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and...Show more →
I know what you mean... I don't really worry about using my 1DX at 3200+ but with the M9 it was always a matter of finding the right balance between high enough shutter speed and not too high ISO. It's a reason IMO for buying the fastest lenses you can afford.
The M9 is particular in low light situations, and is one of the major complaints about it... The cleaner the light (broader spectrum), the better it will be. But, often that's not possible and you'll probably notice splotchy skin tones where some areas are stubbornly red/magenta. The easiest solution is to convert to B&W.
Perhaps a year or two ago we had a discussion here, and also at the Leica User Forum, and was blogged by Jim Kasson, who did a very methodical review, that there is no quantifiable advantage to setting the M9's ISO value above 640. Between 160-640 there is a very slight, hardly perceptible advantage to setting ISO in-camera. Beyond 640, one can instead leave the camera at 640 and push the DNGs in post. Apps such as LR have better NR capability than whatever Leica applies to the files in-camera. The additional benefit to this approach is that you will be able to push exposure by only as much as really needed vs. estimating the ISO value you expect to need while shooting, which might end up being higher than necessary, resulting in greater noise and lower dynamic range. A disadvantage of this approach is that previews on the LCD will be quite dark and scary looking.
The M240 is better with higher ISO performance. In the 1600-3200 range it looks a lot more like contemporary DSLRs. The luminance grain is finer and colors don't tend to be splotch like with the M9. That said, at least with mine, at 3200 banding starts to become evident, something I don't have to worry about with the 1DX.
Unfortunately there is no easy low light, high ISO solution with the M9...
When it comes to situations around the home, you have control over what you're using for lighting fixtures, or more specifically, the kinds of bulbs used. It may be an opportunity to explore whether there are brighter and broader spectrum bulb options available.
Charles - thanks for the info and insight. I agree that service is a critical aspect to the usability of a system and it's unfortunate that Leica lags tremendously in this respect, with very inconsistent service quality around the world. It's just not realistic to expect repairs to be done in Germany for customers outside the EU. Repair service is another reason I'm sticking with a dual system kit for the foreseeable future. Canon's CPS service is very fast, well priced and here in Canada they've made considerable improvements to service quality over the last 5-10 years.
That said, I've been relatively happy with Leica NJ's service. In the past 6 months I've visited them twice in-person for same-day servicing of the M240. Both times were for user induced problems. The first was a stubborn spot on the sensor that I wasn't able to remove (though this wasn't necessarily my fault). The second time I was careless with the camera and the RF was knocked out of alignment. It was explained to me by the very helpful and friendly Leica CSR that as of the M240, Leica as established a very strict set of inspection and service requirements for any M240 servicing. Even for something as simple as a sensor cleaning, the camera must go through a bank of tests and adjustments. And that is done on a 'special machine' which I interpret as meaning something that allows much more precise calibration. It involves both the RF and sensor alignment. My guess is that the fledgling Leica office in Australia does not have this machine. Where Leica NJ is not so great is lens service turnaround... at 1-2 months.
M240 & 90 Summarit, ZM50/2, 90, 28 Cron
Nov 15, 2014 at 12:13 PM
p.1027 #13Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
So I got the M240 and clicked a few with 50lux. First impression
- The focus is off
- Setting the lens to infinity is not focussing at infinity, I have to roll it back a tad to focus.
Does this mean the RF needs calibration?
- The focus is off
- Setting the lens to infinity is not focussing at infinity, I have to roll it back a tad to focus.
Does this mean the RF needs calibration?
Nov 15, 2014 at 01:18 PM
p.1027 #14Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
So I got the M240 and clicked a few with 50lux. First impression
- The focus is off
- Setting the lens to infinity is not focussing at infinity, I have to roll it back a tad to focus.
Does this mean the RF needs calibration?
Nope, this actually means the lens needs to be calibrated to reach infinity at the infinity stop.
Does the RF show the focus to be achieved at the infinity stop?
PS. To be more precise:
1. If the RF patch shows infinity at infinity stop, but actual focus is slightly off, it's the lens. It should be calibrated.
2. If the RF patch shows infinity slightly before the infinity stop, and the focus is accurate at that position, it's the lens, but I wouldn't worry about it.
3. If the RF patch shows infinity slightly before the infinity stop, but accurate focus is at the infinity stop, it's probably the camera, but lens may be at fault too.
Edited on Nov 15, 2014 at 01:46 PM · View previous versions
So I got the M240 and clicked a few with 50lux. First impression
- The focus is off
- Setting the lens to infinity is not focussing at infinity, I have to roll it back a tad to focus.
Does this mean the RF needs calibration?
Nope, this actually means the lens needs to be calibrated to reach infinity at the infinity stop.
Does the RF show the focus to be achieved at the infinity stop?
PS. To be more precise:
1. If the RF patch shows infinity at infinity stop, but actual focus is slightly off, it's the lens. It should be calibrated.
2. If the RF patch shows infinity slightly before the infinity stop, and the focus is accurate at that position, it's the lens, but I wouldn't worry about it.
3. If the RF patch shows infinity slightly before the infinity stop, but accurate focus is at the infinity stop, it's probably the camera, but lens may be at fault too.
Edited on Nov 15, 2014 at 01:46 PM · View previous versions
Nov 15, 2014 at 01:23 PM
p.1027 #15Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
@Ron: those are killer!!
naturephoto1 wrote:
Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and something I'll have to become accustomed to.
https://static.squarespace.com/static/536c4f36e4b06a137909abe4/t/5466b6a0e4b08c5e09d41b83/1416017569537/?format=800w&storage=localHi Shu,
is that WO on the 35/1.2? Was it that light?
This was taken in some seriously dim conditions with the CV 50/1.1 WO
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/15606342609_5a039cbd6c_b.jpg
Mike Hughes by unoh7, 50 1.1 WO
Basically: reduce exposure comp to -2/3 this is what I always use. Limit ISO to 800 max. 500 is usually fine with a superspeed lens. Then push as need in LR and apply NR. That's not the only way, but it's a widely used method.
Does my shot look noisy to you guys?
My copy of the 50/1.1 is dead on calibration
Another way underrated CV lens.
Anyway Brian at Leicaplace gets clean stuff with M9 at 2k+ iso with this same lens, but I'm not sure how. He's very friendly, so don't hesitate to join there and ask.
The beauty of the 35/1.2 is you have some DOF WO.
Here is CV 35/1.2 but it was not really this bright:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3680/11891592974_6230843893_b.jpg
L1000471 by unoh7, on Flickr
obviously any light you can find will be good. Is it greenish?
one more with bokeh
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/11891603794_67ceb25d57_b.jpg
L1000446 by unoh7, on Flickr
At first I figured I'd use A7 for low light stuff. Now, believe it or not, I prefer M9! Talk about a convert
@Rich et al re nature shooting: many reasons I far prefer M9 to a7 or a7r for nature, but one of the biggest is so so simple. Infinity stop. You don't have to find infinity. It's like being given an extra week of life
@ Charles great to see you posting here on any subject Tell Marisa: I hated RF first month of hard use, then I began the slow evolution to insufferable fanboy.Charlie,
You do not or hardly use a tripod. I am coming from an entirely different place using tripods extensively for composition, bracketing consistency, lack of motion of the camera, etc This was for using 4" X 5" cameras, Medium Format cameras, and Leica R cameras and lenses shooting as slow transparency film as possible for the conditions. It would not be uncommon for me to shoot longer than 1 to 10 second exposures as an example with 4" x 5" cameras to maintain DOF with Grad filters, etc. I used and still use much the same techniques for my Medium...Show more →
Nex Shooter by unoh7,50 cron
Guilty as charged That's not me but it could be.
I actually did take a very hard look at modern LF rigs, and I think that is a cool way to go with a history which reaches to the dawn of photography. It may be that someday I use tripods more, but right now I'm using them less as even my long glass is giving decent results with high enough shutters. In addition I don't care for the LE effect which is ubiquitous in landscape photography today, so I don't need a tripod for that trick.
We all have our methods and tastes and they may or may not change over time. But I have to think I would enjoy a proper infinity stop just as much on a tripod as handheld. To be fair one M adapter, the Hawks CF latest, has the capability to set a precise stop, and it's a mystery why this is not a feature of many more.
You love that long R glass, and I don't blame you! No question A7r smokes the M9 at 180mm.....well maybe I need a visio
Before M9 I shot quite a bit at 180, 300 and 400, and I like very much the frames one can make in the wild with so concise a view. I think within 5 years we will have a serious field camera which will bridge the strengths of the M9 and A7r. For now I'm fully occupied with learning all the tricks of framing and focus on M9 at various lengths and speeds. My new 5K riMac has really bought the enterprise to a whole new level. Imagine being able to snap your fingers and see a crystal sharp 13x20 of any image on your hard drive. If the color gamut is inferior to a great print, it's totally gorgeous anyway, and there's no compromise in sharpness at all. I believe it's a major milestone in digital photography.
You should see a user report from me within a few days at this place:
Huffy riMac by unoh7, on Flickr
Edited on Nov 15, 2014 at 01:49 PM · View previous versions
naturephoto1 wrote:
uhoh7 wrote
shujert wrote
Shooting at high ISO is going to be the biggest adjustment and pain point for me, I think. I'm coming from a Df that can shoot ISO12,800 with relative ease. Do you guys have any tips for getting the cleanest possible shot at high ISO with the M9? A trick I've used in the past is to lower the exposure compensation by a stop or so and just fix in post, but Thorsten Overgaard recommends against this with the M9.Here's a shot from this evening at ISO2000. Even using LR's excellent NR tool, the noise is quite pronounced and something I'll have to become accustomed to.
https://static.squarespace.com/static/536c4f36e4b06a137909abe4/t/5466b6a0e4b08c5e09d41b83/1416017569537/?format=800w&storage=local
is that WO on the 35/1.2? Was it that light?
This was taken in some seriously dim conditions with the CV 50/1.1 WO
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/15606342609_5a039cbd6c_b.jpg
Mike Hughes by unoh7, 50 1.1 WO
Basically: reduce exposure comp to -2/3 this is what I always use. Limit ISO to 800 max. 500 is usually fine with a superspeed lens. Then push as need in LR and apply NR. That's not the only way, but it's a widely used method.
Does my shot look noisy to you guys?
My copy of the 50/1.1 is dead on calibration
Another way underrated CV lens.
Anyway Brian at Leicaplace gets clean stuff with M9 at 2k+ iso with this same lens, but I'm not sure how. He's very friendly, so don't hesitate to join there and ask.
The beauty of the 35/1.2 is you have some DOF WO.
Here is CV 35/1.2 but it was not really this bright:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3680/11891592974_6230843893_b.jpg
L1000471 by unoh7, on Flickr
obviously any light you can find will be good. Is it greenish?
one more with bokeh
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/11891603794_67ceb25d57_b.jpg
L1000446 by unoh7, on Flickr
At first I figured I'd use A7 for low light stuff. Now, believe it or not, I prefer M9! Talk about a convert
@Rich et al re nature shooting: many reasons I far prefer M9 to a7 or a7r for nature, but one of the biggest is so so simple. Infinity stop. You don't have to find infinity. It's like being given an extra week of life
@ Charles great to see you posting here on any subject
Tell Marisa: I hated RF first month of hard use, then I began the slow evolution to insufferable fanboy.You do not or hardly use a tripod. I am coming from an entirely different place using tripods extensively for composition, bracketing consistency, lack of motion of the camera, etc This was for using 4" X 5" cameras, Medium Format cameras, and Leica R cameras and lenses shooting as slow transparency film as possible for the conditions. It would not be uncommon for me to shoot longer than 1 to 10 second exposures as an example with 4" x 5" cameras to maintain DOF with Grad filters, etc. I used and still use much the same techniques for my Medium...Show more →
Nex Shooter by unoh7,50 cron
Guilty as charged
That's not me but it could be.I actually did take a very hard look at modern LF rigs, and I think that is a cool way to go with a history which reaches to the dawn of photography. It may be that someday I use tripods more, but right now I'm using them less as even my long glass is giving decent results with high enough shutters. In addition I don't care for the LE effect which is ubiquitous in landscape photography today, so I don't need a tripod for that trick.
We all have our methods and tastes and they may or may not change over time. But I have to think I would enjoy a proper infinity stop just as much on a tripod as handheld. To be fair one M adapter, the Hawks CF latest, has the capability to set a precise stop, and it's a mystery why this is not a feature of many more.
You love that long R glass, and I don't blame you! No question A7r smokes the M9 at 180mm.....well maybe I need a visio
Before M9 I shot quite a bit at 180, 300 and 400, and I like very much the frames one can make in the wild with so concise a view. I think within 5 years we will have a serious field camera which will bridge the strengths of the M9 and A7r. For now I'm fully occupied with learning all the tricks of framing and focus on M9 at various lengths and speeds. My new 5K riMac has really bought the enterprise to a whole new level. Imagine being able to snap your fingers and see a crystal sharp 13x20 of any image on your hard drive. If the color gamut is inferior to a great print, it's totally gorgeous anyway, and there's no compromise in sharpness at all. I believe it's a major milestone in digital photography.
You should see a user report from me within a few days at this place:
Huffy riMac by unoh7, on Flickr
Edited on Nov 15, 2014 at 01:49 PM · View previous versions
Nov 15, 2014 at 01:35 PM
p.1027 #16Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
edwardkaraa wrote:
jfreak wrote:
Does the RF show the focus to be achieved at the infinity stop?
When I am focussing at infinity through the RF, I have to roll the lens focus ring back from infinity stop to focus through it. Is that what you mean?
jfreak wrote:
Does the RF show the focus to be achieved at the infinity stop?
When I am focussing at infinity through the RF, I have to roll the lens focus ring back from infinity stop to focus through it. Is that what you mean?
Nov 15, 2014 at 01:40 PM
p.1027 #17Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
edwardkaraa wrote:
jfreak wrote
Does the RF show the focus to be achieved at the infinity stop?I have clarified my post above.
So the RF shows focus before the hard stop. But which position is sharper?
Nov 15, 2014 at 01:43 PM
p.1027 #18Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
I am updating the the firmware, (after battery is charged, its feels its too slow ).
After this I will take some shots to understand it all. One thing is sure something needs to be set right, lens or camera? O leica...Already feeling the overhead..
).After this I will take some shots to understand it all. One thing is sure something needs to be set right, lens or camera? O leica...Already feeling the overhead..
Nov 15, 2014 at 01:48 PM
p.1027 #19Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
jfreak wrote:
I am updating the the firmware, (after battery is charged, its feels its too slow).
After this I will take some shots to understand it all. One thing is sure something needs to be set right, lens or camera? O leica...Already feeling the overhead..
not sure if you have other glass but that's another way to tell. Majority rule!
If you need lens calibrated: DAG extremely professional in my experience.
But I'm learning it's really not hard at all to work with a lens that's off. Walk around the yard shooting various stuff and check after each your focus on the LCD. The brain learns the proper english in short order.
also: if money is any issue, that 50 lux is worth at least 4 excellent lenses of various FLs.
I am updating the the firmware, (after battery is charged, its feels its too slow
).After this I will take some shots to understand it all. One thing is sure something needs to be set right, lens or camera? O leica...Already feeling the overhead..
not sure if you have other glass but that's another way to tell. Majority rule!
If you need lens calibrated: DAG extremely professional in my experience.
But I'm learning it's really not hard at all to work with a lens that's off. Walk around the yard shooting various stuff and check after each your focus on the LCD. The brain learns the proper english in short order.
also: if money is any issue, that 50 lux is worth at least 4 excellent lenses of various FLs.
Nov 15, 2014 at 01:53 PM
p.1027 #20Leica M/X/T/S/Q/CL/SL Picture Thread
With RF lenses, sometimes the majority is wrong and minority is right But indeed the probability is the majority must be right
As far as I know, the M(240) bodies are very well calibrated at the factory, and there is rarely any problem with new bodies unless they have received a severe shock during the delivery. New lenses however can be all over the place by most user accounts.
But indeed the probability is the majority must be right As far as I know, the M(240) bodies are very well calibrated at the factory, and there is rarely any problem with new bodies unless they have received a severe shock during the delivery. New lenses however can be all over the place by most user accounts.
Nov 15, 2014 at 02:01 PM