Drew_Persson wrote:
IMHO I'd back off on the saturation quite a bit, the detail on the blue clothespin is gone.
Drew, i appreciate what you are saying and sometimes it is true, but in this case i have to disagree, it is a plastic clothespin and the ONLY detail are the 4 horizontal lines on it and they are not blown out.Saturation was +4 in DPP
-Jim
Just to defend Jim, keep in mind blue is one of those colours many monitors do not render naturally. I have two displays in front of me: an Acer and a Dell and the Dell shows the pic oversaturated, while the Acer renders the picture fine. Both displays have been calibrated, it's just that the spectral representation of both screens are different.
Anyway, thanks for sharing! I like what I see in this thread
Jim Schemel wrote:
it is a plastic clothespin and the ONLY detail are the 4 horizontal lines on it and they are not blown out. Also i did no over saturation on this file.
-Jim
The side of the clothespin alsmost uniformly has the RGB values 7, 0, 254 (pretty much solid blue) and there is no trace of any surface texture or reflection. There's lots of colour clipping elsewhere in your web image as it is. It simply looks overexposured to me and maybe you applied the landscape camera profile? sRGB doesn't help of course. Bottom line is that your image is severely oversaturated and Drew is right in saying so.
I love most of your shots otherwise, Jim, but imho this is just a technical defect. Do you have a calibrated screen? It shouldn't really matter though because the RGB values are the proof.
AhamB wrote:
The side of the clothespin alsmost uniformly has the RGB values 7, 0, 254 (pretty much solid blue) and there is no trace of any surface texture or reflection. There's lots of colour clipping elsewhere in your web image as it is. It simply looks overexposured to me and maybe you applied the landscape camera profile? sRGB doesn't help of course. Bottom line is that your image is severely oversaturated and Drew is right in saying so.
I love most of your shots otherwise, Jim, but imho this is just a technical defect. Do you have a calibrated screen? It shouldn't really matter though because the RGB values are the proof....Show more →
Thanks for the input.You are correct i did apply the Landscape filter.Yes my screen is calibrated with Gretag Macbeth Eye One.There is very little detail in the blue clothespin but what detail is there is not blown out.Usually if something is "severely over saturated" you lose the detail, correct? Any way the original image is +4 in DPP here is the same file with the only different adjustment is the saturation slider was put back to 0 http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3623/4650113629_e256ed81c4_b.jpg
-Jim
Jim Schemel wrote:
Thanks for the input.You are correct i did apply the Landscape filter.Yes my screen is calibrated with Gretag Macbeth Eye One.There is very little detail in the blue clothespin but what detail is there is not blown out.Usually if something is "severely over saturated" you lose the detail, correct? Any way the original image is +4 in DPP here is the same file with the only different adjustment is the saturation slider was put back to 0 http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3623/4650113629_e256ed81c4_b.jpg
-Jim
That looks much better. I think it's a better setting to use Jim.
Jim Schemel wrote:
Drew, i appreciate what you are saying and sometimes it is true, but in this case i have to disagree, it is a plastic clothespin and the ONLY detail are the 4 horizontal lines on it and they are not blown out.Saturation was +4 in DPP
-Jim
Curious. Are most of your Mamiya shots here with this much boost in saturation?
That would explain the saturated color. I almost never go above +2 on the DPP
saturation slider, and usually leave it at 0 in the Standard picture style.
trumpet_guy wrote:
Curious. Are most of your Mamiya shots here with this much boost in saturation?
That would explain the saturated color. I almost never go above +2 on the DPP
saturation slider, and usually leave it at 0 in the Standard picture style.
No sometimes i have to desaturate to get it to look right.It just depends on the subject and the look you are going for.I have found that with the Mamiya glass you can saturate more without blowing out detail unlike other glass i have used.
-Jim
We really appreciate all your comments. For sure you have a solution for everything as far as I see from all your wonderful postings in the past. Trying to check some of your photo inputs here in the gallery or forums, unfortunately I failed.
For sure you can help me out.
Thanx everyone for all the answers to a lot of questions. You've given me something to think about...
Unfortunately, due to the strengthening of the dollar/weakening of the euro, the D700 has become almost 200 euro more expensive, the prices for the D300s were not available, but will rise with aprox. 100 euro...
But, i've got one more question, what kind of metering can i expect when using mamiya (or old nikon) lensens on a D700/D300?
evandersandt wrote:
Thanx everyone for all the answers to a lot of questions. You've given me something to think about...
Unfortunately, due to the strengthening of the dollar/weakening of the euro, the D700 has become almost 200 euro more expensive, the prices for the D300s were not available, but will rise with aprox. 100 euro...
But, i've got one more question, what kind of metering can i expect when using mamiya (or old nikon) lensens on a D700/D300?
Thanx for all your support!
Erik
With Nikon lenses which are not CPU equipped you get Aperture Priority and Manual exposure and if you enter the focal length and aperture data in the non-CPU lens menu you get all metering modes (as well as almost full iTTL flash, only the 3D portion is disabled) as well as in-viewfinder and EXIF aperture readouts. Both cameras require AI or AI-modified lenses, pre-AI lenses are not safe to mount unless they have an AI mod.
With mamiya lenses you'll get the same, except that it will only ever show the wide-open aperture and Matrix Metering may behave oddly when you're shooting stopped down as the Mamiya lenses are stop-down metering only (unlike native F mount lenses).
Does that mean that it only works with aperture wide-open? Or can you close the diaphragm a bit, take another reading and so on?
Erik
They will work just fine stopped down, but the aperture display in the viewfinder and in EXIF will always read as the max aperture you entered since the Mamiya lenses have no aperture coupling when adapted. This may also confuse the matrix metering, but centre-weighted and spot metering should be fine.
