hulk2006 wrote:
For those of you that own the FUJI GW690III are you getting 7 or 8 photos per 120 roll? I am getting 7 shots and am wondering what I'm doing wrong. How are you guys loading your rolls?
8 shots. Make sure you line up the start line to the 120 mark, not the 220. Should work fine.
Have to share this, too funny...showing my noobishness with film, I mistakenly thought the roll was fully rewound. I was wrong, and opened the back door, saw the fed film, and quickly slammed it. Again, shot with a Canonete QL17 on Superia 400.
The first sign that something went terribly wrong....
However, things took an interesting turn in the next few frame, and I kind of love the bizarre natural processing that happened here, especially since they were in the desert.
Thanks for the likes for my previous shots with the Voigtländer Perkeo 1. This one is on expired Portra 160NC, digitized with Nikon D750 and AF-S 60mm micro Nikkor using a DigitaLiza holder and a Gepe light panel.
Activatedfx wrote:
For me, 8 shots, and perfectly spaced between the leader and tail. Try holding a finger on the film spool as you wind onto the take-up reel so there's a little tension to keep things taught. Line up the film arrow with the camera arrow on the right, near the take-up spool. Should work perfectly.
And, make sure the plate is set for 120 if you're shooting 120! I've missed that a time or three...kinda throws me for a loop when I 'hit the end' of a 120 roll and the dang thing keeps winding.
Kenj8246 wrote:
And, make sure the plate is set for 120 if you're shooting 120! I've missed that a time or three...kinda throws me for a loop when I 'hit the end' of a 120 roll and the dang thing keeps winding.
I thought the pressure plate only controls the amount of pressure on the film? 220 needs more as there is no backing paper....
How are you guys metering your FUJI GW690s (or other meter less film cameras) for landscape shots?
In the above photo (as well as the one below) I used a Sekonic L-358 with a 1 dergree spot viewfinder and I metered the lightest part of the scene, the darkest part of the scene and then the mid tones before averaging them. I think both shots came a little over exposed? I should point out that both shots were taken around 11am with the sun being out on a very hot day so the conditions weren't ideal for taking photos (as opposed to the golden hour).
Any help would be greatly appreciated because I am going to Iceland in a couple of weeks and want to take some great photos.
Gary Clennan wrote:
I thought the pressure plate only controls the amount of pressure on the film? 220 needs more as there is no backing paper....
Now that I read your post, I recall the selector on top. That probably is why it keeps on winding. DOH! I don't set one without setting the other and sometimes don't pay enough attention.
Gary Clennan wrote:
I thought the pressure plate only controls the amount of pressure on the film? 220 needs more as there is no backing paper....
The pressure plate moves the film plane slightly to ensure perfect focus. With the plate set at 120, the plate is moved back to allow for the paper backing thickness. In the 220 position, it's moved forward to make up for the lack of a paper backing. It needs to be set the correct way, or the images won't be sharp.
The mode dial on top needs to be set to the right film as well so the camera counts the frames correctly. I would think if it were set to 220, and you shot 120, it could also space the frames differently and result in a "lost" frame.
I took a look at a few of my GW690iii rolls, and the frame spacing varies quite a bit between frames. From about 12mm to 8mm. Wierd. But the full 8 shot roll sits right in the middle between the leader and tail.
How are you guys metering your FUJI GW690s (or other meter less film cameras) for landscape shots?
In the above photo (as well as the one below) I used a Sekonic L-358 with a 1 dergree spot viewfinder and I metered the lightest part of the scene, the darkest part of the scene and then the mid tones before averaging them. I think both shots came a little over exposed? I should point out that both shots were taken around 11am with the sun being out on a very hot day so the conditions weren't ideal for taking photos (as opposed to the golden hour).
Any help would be greatly appreciated because I am going to Iceland in a couple of weeks and want to take some great photos.
Nice colors! Almost more like Ektar. I don't think you blew any highlights, but you could dial a little highlight recovery and drop the exposure down a teeny bit in post to get the images looking a little denser if that's what you want. But I don't think they look bad at all!
Re: metering. I use an iPhone App called "Lux". It takes an overall reading using the iPhone camera. You can touch a spot where you want to meter, but I just point in the general direction of my shot and note the shutter speed (I shoot Aperture Priority). I'm honestly not super-careful with my exposures and I generally use a 3 stop ND so I can stay wide open which complicates the math. If it's falling between stops, I'll choose to under-expose a little.
Activatedfx wrote:
The pressure plate moves the film plane slightly to ensure perfect focus. With the plate set at 120, the plate is moved back to allow for the paper backing thickness. In the 220 position, it's moved forward to make up for the lack of a paper backing. It needs to be set the correct way, or the images won't be sharp.
The mode dial on top needs to be set to the right film as well so the camera counts the frames correctly. I would think if it were set to 220, and you shot 120, it could also space the frames differently and result in a "lost" frame.
I took a look at a few of my GW690iii rolls, and the frame spacing varies quite a bit between frames. From about 12mm to 8mm. Wierd. But the full 8 shot roll sits right in the middle between the leader and tail....Show more →
My spacing is a bit off as well but still fine. Same with both 120 and 220 film.
I have a question regarding exposing for slide film. I keep reading about exposing for highlights for slide film and for the shadows with negative film. In my last post I showed two photos taken with negative film where I metered the darkest, lightest and mid tone of the scene with a light meter and averaged them out and used that for my shot.
So with slide film, instead of just metering the brightest area of the scene, should I average all three parts of the scene just like I've down with negative film or should I really just meter the brightest scene and go with that? I'm going to be shooting with Velvia 100 120 film.
