From about 3 weeks ago up in Pigeon Forge (a nightmare most times, worse due to being Memorial Weekend). We went to visit my grandkids and stepdaughters.
Canon A1, expired gold200, first with vivitar 135/2.8 w/cpl, others with fd50/1.8, unicolor kit, pakon, lr5
view from the room
no idea why my grandson was scowling but it was a mean one
riding a mini rollercoaster
houses were lit up on the ridge with some fading light
Man, I didn't really realize how much temperature affects grain on a negative. The coldest I could get the developer, fix, etc was 70*... The grain is pretty heavy on FP4 film. I only got 5 scanned, but they all are very grainy. A couple of those exposures are very dirty, with dust and hairs everywhere. What's weird is that I never touched it. I'm guessing it's the water at the campus as it's very hard (lots of minerals) and not that clean in general. It is a common problem, but some folks seem to be able too avoid it. Not sure how though...
For B&W you don't have to have the perfect temperature.
If 70deg is the lowest then just adjust the developing times (shorter).
I use the "Massive Development Chart" There is a calculator to adjust times for temperature.
Yes dirt is an issue. for my developer I use distilled water. All others I use tap water.
After all done, I use photflo to minimize streaking
Jon Buffington wrote:
From about 3 weeks ago up in Pigeon Forge (a nightmare most times, worse due to being Memorial Weekend). We went to visit my grandkids and stepdaughters.
Canon A1, expired gold200, first with vivitar 135/2.8 w/cpl, others with fd50/1.8, unicolor kit, pakon, lr5
kwoodard wrote:
Man, I didn't really realize how much temperature affects grain on a negative. The coldest I could get the developer, fix, etc was 70*... The grain is pretty heavy on FP4 film. I only got 5 scanned, but they all are very grainy. A couple of those exposures are very dirty, with dust and hairs everywhere. What's weird is that I never touched it. I'm guessing it's the water at the campus as it's very hard (lots of minerals) and not that clean in general. It is a common problem, but some folks seem to be able too avoid it. Not sure how though......Show more →
After you have washed the film for a few minutes with tap water, empty the tap water and then fill the tank with de-ionized/destilled water and then take the film out and hang up to dry in a dust free environment. You can normally get it from drugstores/pharmacies for use in steam irons for clothes.
I live in London which has very hard water and this method stops any mineral deposit/dry marks from forming.
nicoimages wrote:
After you have washed the film for a few minutes with tap water, empty the tap water and then fill the tank with de-ionized/destilled water and then take the film out and hang up to dry in a dust free environment. You can normally get it from drugstores/pharmacies for use in steam irons for clothes.
I live in London which has very hard water and this method stops any mineral deposit/dry marks from forming.
That is exactly what I plan to do next time...rinse with distilled water. We have Photoflo and I used it, but it is made with the same water as tap. We also have a drying cabinet that I used, not sure if that was the source of the dust. It seems to be random on where the dust has settled on the film, so I am at a loss.
I did adjust the developing time for the higher temps. Once I get a shot uploaded, you will see what I mean. It might be D76 and the Ilford FP4 not being a good match. I will let you see what I mean. I will post the dirty one too.
rattymouse,
Love the Astia shots. I am having pretty good luck with both Astia & Provia exposures.
While Velvia & it's punchy colors are sometimes called for, I prefer the more natural colors from Astia
dswiger wrote:
rattymouse,
Love the Astia shots. I am having pretty good luck with both Astia & Provia exposures.
While Velvia & it's punchy colors are sometimes called for, I prefer the more natural colors from Astia
