bjhurley wrote:
The Blue Moon Camera review of Ilford SFX 200 starts this way: "One of our staff used to joke that combining a Holga with a red filter and a roll of Ilford SFX was like shooting fish in a barrel - you couldn't miss." Based on that I bought a roll, put a red filter on my Holga, and went out this morning to shoot it.
Desmolicious wrote:
How did you develop the film? Did you push process? Iso 200+red filter = iso 50? 1/100 @f8….
No pushing, I developed the film normally (in this case I played it safe and followed Ilford's recommended DD-X for 10 minutes). I suspect they recommend DD-X for all their films because it's their most expensive developer and they make the most profit on it; I don't use it on most of my films but when it's a new-to-me Ilford film or the images are important I use it since it has always been reliable for me. I also always use DD-X when shooting Delta 3200 at 3200 or higher, as it works perfectly if you follow Ilford's recommended times.
The forecast was for a clear sunny day so I figured I'd be safe at ISO 50 (I had done some tests a few days before in sunny weather with my light meter), but when I got to the park it was cloudy. The sun was peeking out occasionally, but only for a few seconds at a time. I shot all of that roll in two hours, but most of that time was spent standing around waiting for the sun to come through the clouds so I could get enough light. It would come out and I'd take a quick meter reading, fire off a shot or two and then the sun would be covered in clouds again for the next 10 minutes.
A couple of Holga shots with Fujifilm Pro 400H, expired in late 2023 (so just as good as new). There's a store in my town with a stash of this film, selling it at a discount because it's expired (they sell it for less than Portra 400) so I buy a couple of rolls whenever I pass by; it's quite an amazing film and I'm sad that Fuji doesn't make it any more.
bjhurley wrote:
A couple of Holga shots with Fujifilm Pro 400H, expired in late 2023 (so just as good as new). There's a store in my town with a stash of this film, selling it at a discount because it's expired (they sell it for less than Portra 400) so I buy a couple of rolls whenever I pass by; it's quite an amazing film and I'm sad that Fuji doesn't make it any more.
Roll two with the restored Yashica Electro 35 GT. Last time I shot iso 100 Kentmere at 400 and developed accordingly resulting in extremely thin negatives. This time I shot 400 Kentmere at 200 iso, and gave it a bit more time in the xtol. I figure that added about 3 stops to the auto exposure - though I can not understand an old camera's shutter speeding up - instead of slowing down. Exposure looks right on the money, but I am finding shooting a rangefinder, with my eyesight, is too difficult. All shot at f1.7 - wide open for the 45mm Yashinon-dx
I just wanted to thank Jim (_jim_) for his take on Kodak's 5222 XX and Xtol. I did it a little different than he suggested, but I am completely a XX fan now. One of my recent broken camera purchases came with a 30+ year old unused 120 roll of Kodak's Verichrome Pan on the steel spool. Unfortunately, it had fogged, and had some light leakage along the edges (Will try and recover what I shot later). However, this XX film reminded me of Verichrome Pan - but XX is really superior to Verichrome Pan with a wonderful gradiation of luminosoties, IMO.
Kodak 5222 XX & Nikon N90s with Nikkor 85mm f1.8 afd wide open
OK, Filmophiles. I picked up this Retro 80 film from Dirt Cheap Films because I like surprises. Box speed is supposedly ISO 80. They claim it's Eastman 2378. When I do some searching for this film, I see references to ISO 6-12. Quite the difference.
My initial thought is to expose and develop similar to other orthochromatic films at ISO 80. But before I do, I thought I'd ask here.
rji2goleez wrote:
OK, Filmophiles. I picked up this Retro 80 film from Dirt Cheap Films because I like surprises. Box speed is supposedly ISO 80. They claim it's Eastman 2378. When I do some searching for this film, I see references to ISO 6-12. Quite the difference.
My initial thought is to expose and develop similar to other orthochromatic films at ISO 80. But before I do, I thought I'd ask here.
Thanks! I wonder why they would package it as ISO 80 then. Perhaps it's not 2378. I started a roll at ISO 80. We'll see how that turns out. I have a few rolls so this first one will be a test
From above, I shot this roll at box speed of ISO 80. I used HC-110 (Dilution B) to develop for 6 minutes. Results are consistent. very high contrast. High contrast but the histogram does not reach full black or white. Processed in NLP using the Lab Soft to reduce contrast. The resulting histogram showed each image did not process to full black or full white (makes sense with Lab Soft profile).
Seeing these results, I'm thinking my next attempt would be to develop in HC-110 using Dilution H and instead of 12-14 minutes, let it cook for 10 to get reduced contrast. Is my thinking correct? Any other suggestions?
