Post your recent film shots!
p.1510 #1Post your recent film shots!
bjhurley wrote:
The Blue Moon Camera review of Ilford SFX 200 starts this way: "One of our staff used to joke that combining a Holga with a red filter and a roll of Ilford SFX was like shooting fish in a barrel - you couldn't miss." Based on that I bought a roll, put a red filter on my Holga, and went out this morning to shoot it.
I think they're right.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54582937406_1d33508528_z.jpgVisitor by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54583116649_1cd02f829b_z.jpgParc Frédéric-Back by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54583116644_6ccd650f57_z.jpgParc Frédéric-Back by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54583116709_f502ced7f0_z.jpgParc Frédéric-Back by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
How did you develop the film? Did you push process? Iso 200+red filter = iso 50? 1/100 @f8….
The Blue Moon Camera review of Ilford SFX 200 starts this way: "One of our staff used to joke that combining a Holga with a red filter and a roll of Ilford SFX was like shooting fish in a barrel - you couldn't miss." Based on that I bought a roll, put a red filter on my Holga, and went out this morning to shoot it.
I think they're right.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54582937406_1d33508528_z.jpgVisitor by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54583116649_1cd02f829b_z.jpgParc Frédéric-Back by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54583116644_6ccd650f57_z.jpgParc Frédéric-Back by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54583116709_f502ced7f0_z.jpgParc Frédéric-Back by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
How did you develop the film? Did you push process? Iso 200+red filter = iso 50? 1/100 @f8….
Jun 12, 2025 at 08:30 PM
p.1510 #3Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
How did you develop the film? Did you push process? Iso 200+red filter = iso 50? 1/100 @f8….
No pushing, I developed the film normally (in this case I played it safe and followed Ilford's recommended DD-X for 10 minutes). I suspect they recommend DD-X for all their films because it's their most expensive developer and they make the most profit on it; I don't use it on most of my films but when it's a new-to-me Ilford film or the images are important I use it since it has always been reliable for me. I also always use DD-X when shooting Delta 3200 at 3200 or higher, as it works perfectly if you follow Ilford's recommended times.
The forecast was for a clear sunny day so I figured I'd be safe at ISO 50 (I had done some tests a few days before in sunny weather with my light meter), but when I got to the park it was cloudy. The sun was peeking out occasionally, but only for a few seconds at a time. I shot all of that roll in two hours, but most of that time was spent standing around waiting for the sun to come through the clouds so I could get enough light. It would come out and I'd take a quick meter reading, fire off a shot or two and then the sun would be covered in clouds again for the next 10 minutes.
How did you develop the film? Did you push process? Iso 200+red filter = iso 50? 1/100 @f8….
No pushing, I developed the film normally (in this case I played it safe and followed Ilford's recommended DD-X for 10 minutes). I suspect they recommend DD-X for all their films because it's their most expensive developer and they make the most profit on it; I don't use it on most of my films but when it's a new-to-me Ilford film or the images are important I use it since it has always been reliable for me. I also always use DD-X when shooting Delta 3200 at 3200 or higher, as it works perfectly if you follow Ilford's recommended times.
The forecast was for a clear sunny day so I figured I'd be safe at ISO 50 (I had done some tests a few days before in sunny weather with my light meter), but when I got to the park it was cloudy. The sun was peeking out occasionally, but only for a few seconds at a time. I shot all of that roll in two hours, but most of that time was spent standing around waiting for the sun to come through the clouds so I could get enough light. It would come out and I'd take a quick meter reading, fire off a shot or two and then the sun would be covered in clouds again for the next 10 minutes.
Jun 13, 2025 at 03:30 AM
p.1510 #4Post your recent film shots!
A couple of Holga shots with Fujifilm Pro 400H, expired in late 2023 (so just as good as new). There's a store in my town with a stash of this film, selling it at a discount because it's expired (they sell it for less than Portra 400) so I buy a couple of rolls whenever I pass by; it's quite an amazing film and I'm sad that Fuji doesn't make it any more.
Early June by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
The light gardener by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
Early June by Brad Hurley, on FlickrThe light gardener by Brad Hurley, on FlickrJun 13, 2025 at 05:58 AM
p.1510 #5Post your recent film shots!
Leica M3ds / M-Rokkor 90 / Delta 100 / Diafine
Three Against Two by Henry Beckmeyer, on Flickr
Three Against Two by Henry Beckmeyer, on FlickrJun 13, 2025 at 06:39 AM
p.1510 #6Post your recent film shots!
bjhurley wrote:
A couple of Holga shots with Fujifilm Pro 400H, expired in late 2023 (so just as good as new). There's a store in my town with a stash of this film, selling it at a discount because it's expired (they sell it for less than Portra 400) so I buy a couple of rolls whenever I pass by; it's quite an amazing film and I'm sad that Fuji doesn't make it any more.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54585438299_a28ef10990_z.jpgEarly June by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54585427073_e83a59eea2_z.jpgThe light gardener by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
The light of the last one.
A couple of Holga shots with Fujifilm Pro 400H, expired in late 2023 (so just as good as new). There's a store in my town with a stash of this film, selling it at a discount because it's expired (they sell it for less than Portra 400) so I buy a couple of rolls whenever I pass by; it's quite an amazing film and I'm sad that Fuji doesn't make it any more.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54585438299_a28ef10990_z.jpgEarly June by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54585427073_e83a59eea2_z.jpgThe light gardener by Brad Hurley, on Flickr
The light of the last one.
Jun 13, 2025 at 07:57 AM
p.1510 #10Post your recent film shots!
Early morning moo
Nikon FM3A, Voigtlander 40mm f/2, Fuji 100
Nikon FM3A, Voigtlander 40mm f/2, Fuji 100
Jun 14, 2025 at 05:25 PM
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p.1510 #11Post your recent film shots!
Roll two with the restored Yashica Electro 35 GT. Last time I shot iso 100 Kentmere at 400 and developed accordingly resulting in extremely thin negatives. This time I shot 400 Kentmere at 200 iso, and gave it a bit more time in the xtol. I figure that added about 3 stops to the auto exposure - though I can not understand an old camera's shutter speeding up - instead of slowing down. Exposure looks right on the money, but I am finding shooting a rangefinder, with my eyesight, is too difficult. All shot at f1.7 - wide open for the 45mm Yashinon-dx
Jun 15, 2025 at 07:36 PM
p.1510 #12Post your recent film shots!
Leica M3ds / m-rokkor 90f4 / Delta 100 / Diafine
Another Three Against Two. by Henry Beckmeyer, on Flickr
Another Three Against Two. by Henry Beckmeyer, on FlickrJun 16, 2025 at 06:34 AM
p.1510 #14Post your recent film shots!
I just wanted to thank Jim (_jim_) for his take on Kodak's 5222 XX and Xtol. I did it a little different than he suggested, but I am completely a XX fan now. One of my recent broken camera purchases came with a 30+ year old unused 120 roll of Kodak's Verichrome Pan on the steel spool. Unfortunately, it had fogged, and had some light leakage along the edges (Will try and recover what I shot later). However, this XX film reminded me of Verichrome Pan - but XX is really superior to Verichrome Pan with a wonderful gradiation of luminosoties, IMO.
Kodak 5222 XX & Nikon N90s with Nikkor 85mm f1.8 afd wide open
Kodak 5222 XX & Nikon N90s with Nikkor 85mm f1.8 afd wide open
Kodak 5222 XX & Nikon N90s with Nikkor 85mm f1.8 afd wide open
© James Markus 2025
Kodak 5222 XX & Nikon N90s with Nikkor 85mm f1.8 afd wide open
Jun 16, 2025 at 10:20 AM
p.1510 #15Post your recent film shots!
OK, Filmophiles. I picked up this Retro 80 film from Dirt Cheap Films because I like surprises. Box speed is supposedly ISO 80. They claim it's Eastman 2378. When I do some searching for this film, I see references to ISO 6-12. Quite the difference.
My initial thought is to expose and develop similar to other orthochromatic films at ISO 80. But before I do, I thought I'd ask here.
https://www.dirtcheapfilm.com/shoppingcart/p/retro-orthochromatic-black-and-white-80iso-35mm-film?utm_medium=order-summary&utm_source=order-status&utm_content=name
My initial thought is to expose and develop similar to other orthochromatic films at ISO 80. But before I do, I thought I'd ask here.
https://www.dirtcheapfilm.com/shoppingcart/p/retro-orthochromatic-black-and-white-80iso-35mm-film?utm_medium=order-summary&utm_source=order-status&utm_content=name
Jun 16, 2025 at 10:27 AM
p.1510 #16Post your recent film shots!
rji2goleez wrote:
OK, Filmophiles. I picked up this Retro 80 film from Dirt Cheap Films because I like surprises. Box speed is supposedly ISO 80. They claim it's Eastman 2378. When I do some searching for this film, I see references to ISO 6-12. Quite the difference.
My initial thought is to expose and develop similar to other orthochromatic films at ISO 80. But before I do, I thought I'd ask here.
https://www.dirtcheapfilm.com/shoppingcart/p/retro-orthochromatic-black-and-white-80iso-35mm-film?utm_medium=order-summary&utm_source=order-status&utm_content=name
Here's the data sheet. It's formulated to work with tungsten light for a specific type pf image. Try it at ISO 25.
https://125px.com/docs/motionpicture/kodak_2018/2378E_ti2125.pdf
OK, Filmophiles. I picked up this Retro 80 film from Dirt Cheap Films because I like surprises. Box speed is supposedly ISO 80. They claim it's Eastman 2378. When I do some searching for this film, I see references to ISO 6-12. Quite the difference.
My initial thought is to expose and develop similar to other orthochromatic films at ISO 80. But before I do, I thought I'd ask here.
https://www.dirtcheapfilm.com/shoppingcart/p/retro-orthochromatic-black-and-white-80iso-35mm-film?utm_medium=order-summary&utm_source=order-status&utm_content=name
Here's the data sheet. It's formulated to work with tungsten light for a specific type pf image. Try it at ISO 25.
https://125px.com/docs/motionpicture/kodak_2018/2378E_ti2125.pdf
Jun 16, 2025 at 11:27 AM
p.1510 #17Post your recent film shots!
madNbad wrote:
My initial thought is to expose and develop similar to other orthochromatic films at ISO 80. But before I do, I thought I'd ask here.
https://www.dirtcheapfilm.com/shoppingcart/p/retro-orthochromatic-black-and-white-80iso-35mm-film?utm_medium=order-summary&utm_source=order-status&utm_content=nameHere's the data sheet. It's formulated to work with tungsten light for a specific type pf image. Try it at ISO 25.
https://125px.com/docs/motionpicture/kodak_2018/2378E_ti2125.pdf
Thanks! I wonder why they would package it as ISO 80 then. Perhaps it's not 2378. I started a roll at ISO 80. We'll see how that turns out. I have a few rolls so this first one will be a test
rji2goleez wrote
OK, Filmophiles. I picked up this Retro 80 film from Dirt Cheap Films because I like surprises. Box speed is supposedly ISO 80. They claim it's Eastman 2378. When I do some searching for this film, I see references to ISO 6-12. Quite the difference.My initial thought is to expose and develop similar to other orthochromatic films at ISO 80. But before I do, I thought I'd ask here.
https://www.dirtcheapfilm.com/shoppingcart/p/retro-orthochromatic-black-and-white-80iso-35mm-film?utm_medium=order-summary&utm_source=order-status&utm_content=name
https://125px.com/docs/motionpicture/kodak_2018/2378E_ti2125.pdf
Thanks! I wonder why they would package it as ISO 80 then. Perhaps it's not 2378. I started a roll at ISO 80. We'll see how that turns out. I have a few rolls so this first one will be a test
Jun 16, 2025 at 11:40 AM
p.1510 #18Post your recent film shots!
From above, I shot this roll at box speed of ISO 80. I used HC-110 (Dilution B) to develop for 6 minutes. Results are consistent. very high contrast. High contrast but the histogram does not reach full black or white. Processed in NLP using the Lab Soft to reduce contrast. The resulting histogram showed each image did not process to full black or full white (makes sense with Lab Soft profile).
Seeing these results, I'm thinking my next attempt would be to develop in HC-110 using Dilution H and instead of 12-14 minutes, let it cook for 10 to get reduced contrast. Is my thinking correct? Any other suggestions?
Seeing these results, I'm thinking my next attempt would be to develop in HC-110 using Dilution H and instead of 12-14 minutes, let it cook for 10 to get reduced contrast. Is my thinking correct? Any other suggestions?
Jun 16, 2025 at 04:22 PM
p.1510 #20Post your recent film shots!
Toyota by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
Beetle by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
Porsche 911 by Jim Fischer, on Flickr
Porsche 911 by Jim Fischer, on FlickrLeica M5, Voigtlander 35mm f/1.5 Nokton VM, Fomapan 100, Xtol 1:1.
Jun 16, 2025 at 05:27 PM