New addition to my plastic cr@p family - the Holga 135BC aka KolorBlind...
First thing I did was pull out the vignette mask.
This thing does not seem light tight by the way the back closes/flexes but we'll see...
Desmolicious wrote:
So @RoamingScott@ sent me this ancient, expired, garbage film. Just to mess with me because he knew I wouldn't be able to resist, and waste time and money shooting/developing it.
So, 1970's vintage film? Stored by a furnace? ISO 100? Maybe ISO 100 40 years ago. Scott said give it a stop or two extra light, so I went with two. I actually would have gone with more - because why not it's a complete cr@p shoot at this point - but it was non DX coded and I have a Pentax Espio 24EW that bizarrely defaults to ISO 25 for non DX film.
So junk film - not gonna put that in a fancy camera - in the Espio it goes.
And the results? Psychedelic acid trip man. Seriously far out. I also have included an unmolestered scan so you can see that all I did was adjust curves in LR to increase contrast and saturation. I did not use some lame filter software to completely change colours etc.
This is one of the more 'normal' looking images. Full on trip-meister ones to come.
Unmolestered straight from negativelabpro conversion:
ok, so test shots with my new Holga 135 ColorBlind..
Kentmere 400, walking the dogs so most of this subject matter you have seen before - this basically is to see if the camera works.
Upside - absolutely zero light leaks and unlike the new $6000 Leica M6, no film scratching issues.
Downside - that variable aperture (f8/f11) does not vary the aperture. It remains the same size whatever that is. I confirmed by looking at it with the shutter set to B, and then taking shots of the same subject with the two settings in case I could not believe my lying eyes. No difference.
A shame as on my 120 Holgas, there is an actual difference between the two settings.
The lens is softish in the middle, getting softer/smearier to the outside. The Holga 120s are actually sharp in the center, then smear out which is their cool party trick. On the 135 - it is more of a glowy thing.
In handling the camera feels much nicer than any of the other plastic disposable I mean reloadable cameras. It is fun to use. I do have to note that the Reto Ultra Wide n Slim does have a much sharper lens - but also is much wider at 21mm vs this one's 47mm (supposedly) so focus free.
So if you had to pick just one plastic re-loadable camera - the Holga 120, then the Reto. If you can pick a few - then add the Holga 135.
A few of my first test photos with the new Flic Film Aurora 400, shot on Fuji Work Record. So far I'm underwhelmed, but it's not a very colourful time of year here in terms of variety of colours and tones. I have another roll here that I'll shoot later in the spring, on another camera. Some people claim this film is Ultramax, but the folks at my lab say it's clearly not and it has more red in it (which may account for the brownish cast to most of these photos). The first photo here was my fave of the roll and based on this my hunch is that this film works best out of direct sunlight, in diffuse light or overcast days.
For this weeks Japan post, I’m going with one that’s got a bit of liminal space vibe going. * Note * I was still trying to figure out focus on my CLE lol.
Novak77 wrote:
For this weeks Japan post, I’m going with one that’s got a bit of liminal space vibe going. * Note * I was still trying to figure out focus on my CLE lol.
Minolta CLE, M Rokkor 40mm f/2, Portra 400
Try and pick a spot with a vertical line. That makes it easier to see when the patch comes into focus. Low light is alwas a challenge but eventually it will become clear when the two images come together.
Nice image!
