madNbad wrote:
It's a bit of a big honker to lug around but the images from the H1 have a clarity that only comes from using a bigger negative.
Yeah this thing ain’t petite! But it is about the same size as my Nikon F6 with Sigma Art 35 or 50 lens.
Which basically is why I hardly ever pack the F6 w/ Sigma so I’m not sure how strong my argument is.. Oh yeah, same size but way bigger negative!
And for those who claim 645 is barely bigger than 35mm, well they have never held the two next to each other.
I have lots of 120/220:film in my freezer and it has to be used. Basically it is old. The freshest may be five years past due. The Portra 160 VC 220 now has a very strong green colour shift, which thankfully negativelabpro and LR can correct.
Last roll from our trip to Ashland, Oregon. Almost all of the images are straight from the NLP Noritsu profile. A few have some minor adjustments for brightness. All images were metered with a Sekonic 308X, with a few of I sorta agree with the meter but...
M4-2, Voigtlander 35 1.4 Nokton Classic SC V2, ND2 filter, Flic Film Aurora 800 @ ISO 400
Desmolicious wrote:
Yeah this thing ain’t petite! But it is about the same size as my Nikon F6 with Sigma Art 35 or 50 lens.
Which basically is why I hardly ever pack the F6 w/ Sigma so I’m not sure how strong my argument is.. Oh yeah, same size but way bigger negative!
And for those who claim 645 is barely bigger than 35mm, well they have never held the two next to each other.
I have lots of 120/220:film in my freezer and it has to be used. Basically it is old. The freshest may be five years past due. The Portra 160 VC 220 now has a very strong green colour shift, which thankfully negativelabpro and LR can correct....Show more →
Or you could sell it to some hipsters for bank and buy some fresh rolls
geekcop wrote:
I really like Aurora 800. Just great colors.
I've only shot one roll of Lomography CN 800 (have another roll in my camera right now) but based on that first roll I'd say it and Aurora 800 are pretty similar and could possibly be the same film (most speculation points to one of the Kodak 800 films for disposable cameras). But where I live, the Lomo film is more expensive and the price is going up, plus you can only buy it in boxes of three rolls. It does come with DX codes, though, which is necessary for my point-and-shoot camera. I know I can make my own DX codes or carefully transfer them from another canister, but when I needed a few rolls of ISO 800 film I didn't have time for that; I was shooting the next day and was busy packing. And Portra 800 was even more expensive.
geekcop wrote:
This camera is next on my list. Shots look wonderful, BTW.
It really is a nice camera! I'm taking it on our vacation next week. I'd follow Huss's advice and get the model with the panorama feature, which also allows zone focusing (for shooting underwater, but it comes in handy in other situations too). I might have to get one of those; I got the regular model instead. I have noticed flare in some situations; not sure if that's the lens itself or its protective glass covering that's causing it; I like flares in general but the ones I've seen haven't been very attractive. So far I'm finding it looks best with fast films where it stops way down (fastest shutter speed is only 1/250); the images are super sharp and I don't see any evidence of diffraction softening at tiny apertures.
bjhurley wrote:
It really is a nice camera! I'm taking it on our vacation next week. I'd follow Huss's advice and get the model with the panorama feature, which also allows zone focusing (for shooting underwater, but it comes in handy in other situations too). I might have to get one of those; I got the regular model instead. I have noticed flare in some situations; not sure if that's the lens itself or its protective glass covering that's causing it; I like flares in general but the ones I've seen haven't been very attractive. So far I'm finding it looks best with fast films where it stops way down (fastest shutter speed is only 1/250); the images are super sharp and I don't see any evidence of diffraction softening at tiny apertures....Show more →
I would NOT take it underwater! It was designed - as the name suggests - to photograph work sites and as such was made weather resistant. So it is fine in rain.
I’d pick the pano version given the cameras are in equal condition, but I’d definitely get the standard version if it is in better shape.
This camera has a huge viewfinder which is very nice to use, and it only turns off if you turn it off. I really like that as it means it is always ready to shoot.
Desmolicious wrote:
I would NOT take it underwater! It was designed - as the name suggests - to photograph work sites and as such was made weather resistant. So it is fine in rain.
I’d pick the pano version given the cameras are in equal condition, but I’d definitely get the standard version if it is in better shape.
This camera has a huge viewfinder which is very nice to use, and it only turns off if you turn it off. I really like that as it means it is always ready to shoot.
The specs say it is rated to 1 meter under water although I'm not willing to test that on mine. I have taken it out (and taken photos) during a downpour and it was fine, and the manual says if you get sand or salt water on it you can just clean it under a faucet.
I actually have the original owner's manual; it came with mine. It's all in Japanese, as this camera was never sold outside Japan (although all the writing on the camera itself is in English, including the funny "For Use During Construction" text on the back of the non-panorama version). Maybe Fuji planned to eventually sell this camera internationally, or maybe it was considered cool/macho among their target buyers to have everything on your camera written in English.
I used Google Translate to translate some of the manual to understand some key bits like the backlight compensation: it applies a +2 EV compensation when you select that option. It also warned me when I focused on the backlit plant in my photo above: the red "flash necessary" light blinked rapidly, which I'd never seen before. The flash didn't actually fire; the camera just overexposed by 2 stops.
As far as I can tell, turning the camera off is only to prevent accidental photos if the shutter button happens to get hit while in your bag. I've forgotten to turn mine off for a week or two and the battery still reads full. And the display is always on even when the camera is turned off, so it is always consuming a tiny bit of power. I've taken over 200 photos with this camera so far and the battery indicator is still at 100%.
I don't have an M at the moment but I keep debating bulk loading Kodak Vision and Kentmere.
After watching a video of how to load the Flic cassettes, I ordered five and the opener tool from Freestyle. My problem in the past is, the snap cap metal ones are becoming expensive and the last time I bulk loaded any, there were a few where the cap would pop at an inconvenient time. The fiber light traps on the plastic cassettes shed like a golden retriever. A hundred feet of Kentmere is about $85 with shipping. It's worth a try.
bjhurley wrote:
The specs say it is rated to 1 meter under water although I'm not willing to test that on mine. I have taken it out (and taken photos) during a downpour and it was fine, and the manual says if you get sand or salt water on it you can just clean it under a faucet.
I actually have the original owner's manual; it came with mine. It's all in Japanese, as this camera was never sold outside Japan (although all the writing on the camera itself is in English, including the funny "For Use During Construction" text on the back of the non-panorama version). Maybe Fuji planned to eventually sell this camera internationally, or maybe it was considered cool/macho among their target buyers to have everything on your camera written in English.
I used Google Translate to translate some of the manual to understand some key bits like the backlight compensation: it applies a +2 EV compensation when you select that option. It also warned me when I focused on the backlit plant in my photo above: the red "flash necessary" light blinked rapidly, which I'd never seen before. The flash didn't actually fire; the camera just overexposed by 2 stops.
As far as I can tell, turning the camera off is only to prevent accidental photos if the shutter button happens to get hit while in your bag. I've forgotten to turn mine off for a week or two and the battery still reads full. And the display is always on even when the camera is turned off, so it is always consuming a tiny bit of power. I've taken over 200 photos with this camera so far and the battery indicator is still at 100%....Show more →
Excellent info!
I just wouldn’t trust submerging it because the seals seem seriously lacking compared to other weather resistant cameras I’ve had - Nikon LW35AF and Pentax WR90 - as well as of course my Nikonos.
The Work Record is an awesome camera. And you can get a like new one for between 1/5 and 1/8th the price of the new P17 and Rollei 35AF!
These intense colors are true to the original Velvia 4 x 5 transparency. In the hills next to Mount Rainier fog was rising just as the last fiery rays of sunset lit up the clouds.
