Have you done a focus test with the lens you used on the 1DIII? That at least eliminates one important possibility for OOF shots.
Personally, I have not had much trouble with shots where the subject can be clearly distinguished from the background. In both of your images that is the case.
Edited by Gib Robinson on Sep 04, 2007 at 05:10 PM GMT
From what I see here the highest contrast point is betwen the white makeup and the hair and clearly the head was moving about when this was taken. I can only relate to this with the Mark II but would like to know if you had auto focus expansion on here? If so, would the camera not gravitate to the greatest point of contrast in the circle of focus? That would seem to me to be the exact area where focus has been attained in this photo, the line between the hair and the white makeup.
I'm simply guessing and weighing possibilities from what I see here.
The idea that your stationary test is successful may lend a bit of credence to the idea that the "moving" subject, the singer, is causing you problems because of the high contrast between hair and white makeup in a moving environment. A solid pole is quite different than that singer.
I did not have AF expansion on. Here is the thing though, I am not prepared to fully blame the camera while I still believe it may be user error (mine)
The white makeup and darker hair definitely creates a dynamic contrast point and the mouth is one extremely small target point, and moving at that, probably quickly as in a head jerk, so this is a real tough shot at the best of times, I'd say, personally, and it's nice to hear that you agree that this shot may have more to it than camera faultiness. That's one tough shot, imo, especially in that lighting.
Today I got this white paper from Todd Tieman Senior Technical Representative at Canon Lake Success office.
Hope this is helpful. or you can PM me with your email address and I can send you the PDF file he sent me. My mk3 and 5 pieces of L glass are at Jamesburg now for calibration and a MK3 work over for AI servo focus issue.
AF Microadjustment:
In-camera adjustments for autofocusing accuracy with the EOS-1D Mark III
Overview:
During the manufacturing process, AF accuracy is adjusted for the camera and lens to fall within the lens'
maximum aperture's depth of focus. However, there are users who want to adjust the point of focus more
minutely. Before the EOS-1D Mark III, Canon SLR users have had to go to a Factory Service Center to
have adjustments made. AF Microadjustment is a new Custom Function developed for EOS-1D Mark III
users. Users themselves can now finely adjust the AF focusing position.
What does AF Microadjustment do?
AF Microadjustment shifts the plane of sharpest focus backward or forward from the factory-default spot.
The adjustment range is ±20 steps in front of (-) or behind (+) the point of focus. The focus shift amount
per step is calculated by multiplying the maximum aperture's single-side depth of focus by 1/8. Therefore,
it’s accurate to say that focus shift amounts are customized according to the lens in use.
All lenses can have the same amount of adjustment applied, or up to 20 different lenses can be adjusted
individually. When a registered lens is mounted on the body and the Custom Function for AF
Microadjustment is turned on, the camera applies the focus shift adjustment automatically. There are two
limitations to this feature:
1. Since the camera does not recognize serial numbers from individual lenses, AF Microadjustments
can only be registered for individual lens models. For example, if you register an AF
Microadjustment for an EF135mm f/2L USM lens, that adjustment will be applied to all
EF135mm f/2L USM lenses mounted on your camera, regardless of the lens serial number.
2. In the case of zoom lenses, focus shift amounts may vary according to focal length. However,
since only one shift amount can be registered per lens, adjusting for the longest focal length is
recommended.
Additionally, if an EF Extender can be attached, the camera recognizes whether it is 1.4x or 2x and
modifies the shift adjustment accordingly. In this case, the camera’s AF Microadjustment screen will
display both the lens name and the extender name. In other words, a lens with an EF Extender on it is
treated as a separate lens, and if microadjustment is necessary it too needs to be calibrated.
How to determine whether or not AF Microadjustment is necessary:
Take a close look at your pictures. If you see a consistent problem of front- or back-focus you may need
to use microadjustment. Follow the steps below to determine if AF Microadjustment is necessary:
1. Set the camera up on a tripod to rule out camera movement and focusing style as possible causes
for front- or back-focus issues. Take several shots of a static three dimensional subject with the
lens set to its maximum aperture (lowest f-number).
a. If you have a zoom lens, conduct the test with the lens at its longest focal length.
b. If you are adjusting an IS lens, shut off the Image Stabilizer function.
c. Set the camera to One-Shot AF and manually select the center focusing point. Be sure
C.Fn.III-8 is set to “0” when you take these test shots.
d. Make sure that the subject being focused is large enough to cover the entire AF frame of
the center focusing point. Be certain there’s distinct foreground and background area
(such as the ground beneath a subject’s feet) to detect whether focus is sharpest slightly
in front of or behind your subject. (Test charts with thin lines may not provide enough
detail for the AF system to perform consistently.)
e. Large JPEG’s are fine for test purposes. RAW images are not necessary.
2. Bring the images into the computer and examine them at 100% pixel magnification. (Do not use
the LCD on the camera, even with magnification.)
3. At this point it should be clear whether the lens requires a front (-) or rear (+) adjustment.
I sure hope that some of the focus issues are not related to people toying too much with the calibration adjustment. That would simply make for another potential reason for the supposed AF troubles. It's the first camera with this capability, perhaps it's being played with too much by some? Just a thought.
based on the images I have just posted I have not touched the AF adjustment. I was about to but I can't see where I need to as they look sharp.
I am still leaning strongly toward (in my case) user error.
My Mark III has been shipped and your posting has been extremely helpful to me in what I'll be focusing on (no pun intended). If I run into any AF trouble I don't plan on touching any calibration controls until everything else has been exhaustively checked and tested. It's a fabulous tool but is also new and loads of people love to play with new technology, just for the sake that it exists. Could this be part of the overall AF trouble? I'm not sure, but I believe that it's possible that it may be playing "some" part in the trouble.
Just curious, when you "reset" all settings does this also reset any lens calibrations that have been applied?
dcmiller wrote:
Canon must have halted shipments. I can't imagine continuing to ship with these reports. Is there any way this doesn't affect the 1DsIII?
I just got a call today (three months after getting my first 1D-III) that my second one is available. Since I ordered mine at the same time, I'm guessing this means that the dealer didn't get any for 3 months?
Normcar21 wrote:
........
Just curious, when you "reset" all settings does this also reset any lens calibrations that have been applied?
Page 169 of the manual:
"The registered AF microadjustment will be retained even if you use the Custon Function to clear all settings. However, the setting itself will be [0 - Disable]"
If I understand the statement correctly, the answer to your question is 'yes' but you have to go back to rest the C.Fn III - 7 to 1 or 2. I haven't tried it myself.
Hope your camera will arrive soon without any delay at the Canadian Customs.
The only thing I would add to the micro-adjustment procedure is to focus from far to near, and near to far. You may find the plane of focus moves a little depending on the direction the lens has to move to obtain focus.
If you want to focus-test your 300 f/2.8 I would suggest you download a test chart and follow the normal procedure (usually provided along with the chart).
FYI, there is a thorough walk-through of focus testing in Arthur Morris' user's guide to the 1DIII. It can be found on his website (birdsasart.com). Morris has done considerable testing with the camera because he photographs birds in flight. As far as I know, he still thinks his bodies are quite usable for birds in flight with the settings he uses. All the settings and his comments on them are included in the user's guide ($20).
Richard,
The posted info on Micro Adjustments was a PDF from canon not my AF info. I think at the end of the doc it does say for zoom lenses that they suggest using the long end of your lens for caliration, that is unless you normally use your zoom lens towards its shorter or middle focal lengths.
FYI, there is a thorough walk-through of focus testing in Arthur Morris' user's guide to the 1DIII. It can be found on his website (birdsasart.com). Morris has done considerable testing with the camera because he photographs birds in flight. As far as I know, he still thinks his bodies are quite usable for birds in flight with the settings he uses. All the settings and his comments on them are included in the user's guide ($20).
I considered his guide when it first came out. But I think I'll wait. If there are hardware issues his techniques will not necessarily work for bad cameras. I feel the the most important thing a new buyer needs to do is to learn what the custom functions really do - especially those dealing with how the camera reacquire focus.
Art was updating the guide with new information as he learned it. I wonder if he is still doing that.
Anyway, I'm waiting for 1.1.1 to see where were at. Canon needs time and I don't need the frustration.
Remember micro adjustments optimize AF at the tested distance. The lens could already be well adjusted at the slight compromise necessary to focus well at a range of distances.
I believe Canon recommends that the micro adjustment be done for a specific job.
While Arthur Morris does give good information its a good practice to always use the manufactures information as well as other documents available on the web. Besides canon doesn't charge. Also a focus chart can be a helpful guide as well when adjusting or checking lens for calibration.
