This topic is in the 2006 archive. You can read it and like its posts here. It is read only.
Archive 2006Alternative Image Thread
p.2 #1Alternative Image Thread
This is all Canon, but it is a bit different. A Canon 35mm tilt-shift FD lens, converted to an EOS mount to allow infinity focus without the need for the intermediate converter lens, mounted on a 1ds2.
http://i.pbase.com/g3/63/551663/2/57532487.XC7A4676_prem01.jpg
Edited by mcbroomf on May 10, 2006 at 06:59 PM GMT
http://i.pbase.com/g3/63/551663/2/57532487.XC7A4676_prem01.jpg
Edited by mcbroomf on May 10, 2006 at 06:59 PM GMT
Apr 21, 2006 at 06:14 AM
p.2 #2Alternative Image Thread
Another CZ D21 image, uncropped 1Ds:
http://patternassociates.com/rico/d30/misc/threepines.jpg
http://patternassociates.com/rico/d30/misc/threepines.jpg
Apr 21, 2006 at 06:59 AM
p.2 #3Alternative Image Thread
View from the top of the world looking over Geiranger, Norway. Canon 1Ds and Leica 15/2.8.
Apr 21, 2006 at 08:02 AM
p.2 #4Alternative Image Thread
Interesting images.
Mike, I have one of those old FD tilt/shift lenses converted to EF mount as well, very useful focal length.
Here is macro in 4x5. Arca Swiss, Velvia scanned.
Mike, I have one of those old FD tilt/shift lenses converted to EF mount as well, very useful focal length.
Here is macro in 4x5. Arca Swiss, Velvia scanned.
Apr 21, 2006 at 09:12 AM
p.2 #5Alternative Image Thread
Here is one of my best selling images entitled Horsetooth in Winter. It is most interesting because this may have been one of the only days without wind since I have lived in Colorado, allowing the reflections to really shine through. This was shot with the Kodak SLR N with a 17-35 Nikkor zoom.
Apr 21, 2006 at 09:26 AM
p.2 #6Alternative Image Thread
And Finally, my favorite shot from Lower Antelope Canyon in Page Arizona. This is a must do shoot for anyone interested in fine art landscape photography. Very spiritual as well as very lovely. Shot with Nikon D2X and 17-35 Zoom.
Apr 21, 2006 at 09:35 AM
p.2 #7Alternative Image Thread
Ok, Ok
How about a modest set up shot with digilux2 ambient light. Great little walk around camera
How about a modest set up shot with digilux2 ambient light. Great little walk around camera
Apr 21, 2006 at 11:16 AM
p.2 #8Alternative Image Thread
Dear Kurt
How is the flare with the 15mm?
Nice shot, BTW, did you need do do some processintg fro haze? Do you use a haze filter? Is that a "stealth 1Ds? Not showing on profile
Flare on my 15mm leica is a bit worse than I thought, but then I do get pretty close to sun and pick some bad angels.
BTW, 280mm f4 took precedence from 2x focus modle, but one of these days!
Regards
victor
How is the flare with the 15mm?
Nice shot, BTW, did you need do do some processintg fro haze? Do you use a haze filter? Is that a "stealth 1Ds? Not showing on profile
Flare on my 15mm leica is a bit worse than I thought, but then I do get pretty close to sun and pick some bad angels.
BTW, 280mm f4 took precedence from 2x focus modle, but one of these days!
Regards
victor
Apr 21, 2006 at 12:03 PM
p.2 #9Alternative Image Thread
Victor, at first the flare caught me by suprise. But once I remembered to watch out for it, I usually found a way to alter my shot or use my hand as a shade to eliminate it while shooting. It is probably one of my favorite lenses to use....it is incredibly sharp and it resolves detail from corner to corner quite wonderfully.
I was using nearly all Leica glass with a 1DS before I received my DMR. I had to modify the mirror to use the 15 (and a few other lenses), but the results were worth the effort. I sold it before picking up the DMR. I still wouldn't mind having it around though, for full-frame landscapes.
I did have to mess around with the haze in photoshop. One of the strengths of mating Leica lenses on the DMR is the strong metering and white balance. I would have liked to have been able to use the DMR on my trip to Norway last summer. There are a few shots with haze and blown highlights that I could have captured more acurately with the DMR.
I've been looking at those 280/4s also. It would be so easy to add it to the small bag with the 180/2.8.
Kurt
I was using nearly all Leica glass with a 1DS before I received my DMR. I had to modify the mirror to use the 15 (and a few other lenses), but the results were worth the effort. I sold it before picking up the DMR. I still wouldn't mind having it around though, for full-frame landscapes.
I did have to mess around with the haze in photoshop. One of the strengths of mating Leica lenses on the DMR is the strong metering and white balance. I would have liked to have been able to use the DMR on my trip to Norway last summer. There are a few shots with haze and blown highlights that I could have captured more acurately with the DMR.
I've been looking at those 280/4s also. It would be so easy to add it to the small bag with the 180/2.8.
Kurt
Apr 21, 2006 at 12:51 PM
p.2 #10Alternative Image Thread
I am wondering if it makes sense to use a light orange filter to reduce haze at the time of shooting, and then to correct the colours in RAW processing... Does that just go back and forth equal amounts, or could it actually remove some haze from the image?
Apr 21, 2006 at 01:01 PM
p.2 #11Alternative Image Thread
my last
canon d5 and carl zeiss jena 20/4 Zebra
http://guilhermevieira.no.sapo.pt/
canon d5 and carl zeiss jena 20/4 Zebra
http://guilhermevieira.no.sapo.pt/
Apr 21, 2006 at 01:01 PM
p.2 #12Alternative Image Thread
Spring shot from today with the DMR and 35mm summilux ... f2.
Apr 21, 2006 at 01:01 PM
p.2 #13Alternative Image Thread
Good question Carsten. I'm not certain if one way would work better than the other. For me, haze has always been a hard thing to undo. But sometimes you don't have the opportunity to come back on a day with no haze.
Personally, I always try to capture the image as close to as I see it first in RAW. From there, it is subject to my internal filter as to what I'd like it to look like as a final image (as we all have a unique way of seeing things). I tend to bump saturation and color up a touch on most shots as that is a look I prefer.
Kurt
Personally, I always try to capture the image as close to as I see it first in RAW. From there, it is subject to my internal filter as to what I'd like it to look like as a final image (as we all have a unique way of seeing things). I tend to bump saturation and color up a touch on most shots as that is a look I prefer.
Kurt
Apr 21, 2006 at 01:08 PM
p.2 #14Alternative Image Thread
Spring shot from yesterday, 1D and 50 2.0 Summicron
http://i.pbase.com/g3/93/613693/2/58927362.C03E7984.jpg
and one from tuesday, 1D and Zeiss 35-70 3.4
http://i.pbase.com/g3/93/613693/2/58865228.C03E7827.jpg
http://i.pbase.com/g3/93/613693/2/58927362.C03E7984.jpg
and one from tuesday, 1D and Zeiss 35-70 3.4
http://i.pbase.com/g3/93/613693/2/58865228.C03E7827.jpg
Apr 21, 2006 at 01:15 PM
p.2 #15Alternative Image Thread
River bed in autumn. Arca Swiss 8x10 Velvia scanned.
Apr 21, 2006 at 01:29 PM
p.2 #17Alternative Image Thread
kidigital wrote:
Good question Carsten. I'm not certain if one way would work better than the other. For me, haze has always been a hard thing to undo. But sometimes you don't have the opportunity to come back on a day with no haze.
Personally, I always try to capture the image as close to as I see it first in RAW. From there, it is subject to my internal filter as to what I'd like it to look like as a final image (as we all have a unique way of seeing things). I tend to bump saturation and color up...Show more →
Yup, I do the same. Your post just triggered the thought. If the orange filter cuts haze (doesn't store as much blue), yet doesn't distort the colours too much (perhaps yellow then), it might actually be possible to revert, without the haze. The question is two-fold I suppose: 1) is the haze latently there somehow? 2) how much colour would be lost this way.
Helping out the second item is the fact that long-distance shots are often pretty monochrome anyway. It would be interesting too to shoot two shots, one normal, one with filter for the far parts, and then combine them with layers. If one was willing to go mostly monochrome, then it would even be possible to shoot with a red filter and change the red to blue afterwards.
Good question Carsten. I'm not certain if one way would work better than the other. For me, haze has always been a hard thing to undo. But sometimes you don't have the opportunity to come back on a day with no haze.
Personally, I always try to capture the image as close to as I see it first in RAW. From there, it is subject to my internal filter as to what I'd like it to look like as a final image (as we all have a unique way of seeing things). I tend to bump saturation and color up...Show more →
Yup, I do the same. Your post just triggered the thought. If the orange filter cuts haze (doesn't store as much blue), yet doesn't distort the colours too much (perhaps yellow then), it might actually be possible to revert, without the haze. The question is two-fold I suppose: 1) is the haze latently there somehow? 2) how much colour would be lost this way.
Helping out the second item is the fact that long-distance shots are often pretty monochrome anyway. It would be interesting too to shoot two shots, one normal, one with filter for the far parts, and then combine them with layers. If one was willing to go mostly monochrome, then it would even be possible to shoot with a red filter and change the red to blue afterwards.
Apr 21, 2006 at 02:10 PM
p.2 #18Alternative Image Thread
Zuiko 18/3.5
http://www.pbase.com/garethc/image/57427484.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/garethc/image/57427484.jpg
Apr 21, 2006 at 02:10 PM
p.2 #19Alternative Image Thread
and another
http://www.pbase.com/garethc/image/57429609.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/garethc/image/57429609.jpg
Apr 21, 2006 at 02:17 PM