I don't know about yout but if I get a blue screen of death like Microsoft on my 10D i'd return it.... it should nOT be a computer.
People are used to taking crappy software like Microsoft and expect that's how it works.
willie408 wrote:
LM - what you are describing is essentially the same thing as "rebooting" a computer when it has a malfunction - AND that is the first thing any IS manager will tell you to try ! Good work.
By the way, a digital camera IS exactly a computer - one with a lens and chip attached to it. Everything else is the computer - and that's why Nikon is going down the drain - they are not keeping up - this type of software gets better on a geometric curve (and a competitor cant steal it because you cant get at it - want to bet a "firmware" upgrade doesn't depend on hidden decryption inside the chip? HaHa). Some of the biggest software companies went under because they did not keep up, and then could not catch up - like WordPerfect and Lotus, for example...
What Nikon is doing can easily be fatal just because a digital camera is a computer, indeed. Best regards bill w....Show more →
kmoodymz3 wrote:
This is good news Larry. I'm very happy for you.
Larry or Tony,
The faster file load into breezebrowser has me puzzled. If you copy "pre-fix" files into an empty directory, and do the same with the new files do you really see a speed difference?
John.........
Karen...who cares....the camera is taking better pictures.
Lm
Okay. So I decided to take it a step further. I wanted to see if the actual problem could be reproduced. So I removed BOTH the BP511 battery AND the lithium backup battery. Left both out for a few secs, then reinserted. Camera should be back to 100% factory defaults now. So I set the time (which it asks for as soon as you turn on the camera) and took a shot without changing ANY settings except for center focus point only and RAW mode. No custom functions, no camera settings, etc.
Ouch. That is focus locked on the word "The".
70-200 f/4L, 1/200s @ f/4, 200mm with flash for exposure to eliminate camera shake as a cause of being blurry. Image appeared in focus in the viewfinder.
Now, I go in and reset the camera settings and custom functions using both options, and repeat:
Night and day, eh?
Same lens, same focal length, focal point, exposure, and camera settings. NO sharpening or other modification has been applied to either image. These are 100% crops.
So there IS definately a difference. You can try this test yourself to see. Though I am starting to think it is not a focus issue but a sensor calibration issue...
One more tidbit: prior to this experiment I had reset the camera. Removing the small lithium battery forces the camera to forget everything. So if you wish to check this yourself, you can even if you had previously reset the camera.
1. The settings you have is SAVED in a flash rom. Those flash are probably inserted with soem "default" settings from the factory that may be FOOBARED :-)
2. The FACTORY DEFAULT settings are saved on ROM, and those are correct. Thus by resetting, you simply move it to the flash and voila, problem solved.
I wonder if there are some stuff in the flash rom that are updated to fit each user, simliar to some car's acceleration, etc. settings. I know in my car, the Integra Type R, different drivers will yield different settings So maybe the issue may pop back up again later as people are using the camera. This may be a firmware related problem it's just that we're able to get it back to "normal" by resetting.
Either way, i am glad to know about htis. I'll definitely reset the settings when i get my 10D next week hopefully!
DaveZ wrote:
Just wanted to add my thanks.10D was definitely softer than my 1D before.Seems to be working great now
Thanks Larry
Glad it helped Dave...Ghee...I have at least 30 10D Tiger Woods images that were super when I shot them, but all came out soft and no way to get them up to magazine quality...I was really sick about it...Now the damned thing is fine...ROFL.
I got some good 1D images of him so all wasn't lost...just so happened the best angles etc were 10D shots. I feel like I wasted a week down there...went from the Penthouse to the outhouse so to speak...We're a ll set now...the detail is outstanding...this Parameter thing is driving me nutzo now...trying to get a line on what situaltion the shoot lower contrast etc. Also will be thrilled when Fred comes up with a 10D CSPro
Best
LM
Just got back from a weekend golf tournament. Very happy to see your post, unfortunatly I sent the camera in last Thrusday. Wish I wasn't so impatient!! If it's not perfect I'll give it a try when it comes back.
Larry you the mannn!!!!! I just removed my 10D from the buy & sell forum. I did the reset and wham it is much faster and crisp in focus! I wish I had known this before I shot with it as a backup for the last 10 days! The fix was so elementary? I'm holding off ordering another 1D for another week or so, gonna give the 10D another chance.
Thanks a million,
Ben
Being a scientist (at least in my education and upbringing ), I'll hold off on the enthusiasm until someone is able to publish "before" and "after" tests with the AF. I'm skeptical that simply changing (or resetting) camera settings will fix actual AF problems (unless there is a hidden C.Fn called "Enable/disable accurate AF" ).
I noticed the following problem with my 10D and at least my Canon 50mm f/1.4: mount it on a tripod and point it at a static subject. The 10D locks on quickly, but I notice the distance scale on the lens is slightly different each time. In AI Servo mode, you can hear the focus motors whirring away and the distance scale jiggling around. If I then put my Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens on, this behaviour is *not* observed. The camera locks in consistently at the same distance, and there is absolutely no motor noise in AI Servo. I've observed this both before and after clearing all the settings. The problem may have been lessened (though I'm not even sure of that until I check the shots), but it is definitely still there.
BigJoe wrote:
I did such a test. It is on the previous page of this thread.
Thanks, Joe! I did see your test, but how many shots did you take? I'm looking for something that is repeatable, reproducible and consistent. Preferably something that does vary the shooting conditions in a controlled and predictable manner: different lenses, different camera-subject distances, different levels of lighting, 10D vs D60, etc. I'm putting together a gallery of 100% 512x512 center crops before and after. So far, it looks like the 50mm f/1.4 is the worst of the bunch... the Tamron 90mm is much better than the 50mm, as is the 70-200/2.8L IS at both 70mm and 200mm. However, it is difficult to say if any improvement I may have seen is a result of resetting the camera, or just "luck".
I think once people have tried this and have spent a few days to a few weeks shooting "normal" work, we'll know for sure how much of an affect resetting the camera really has. Too bad the weekend is over, or else I'd have time to pull out the batteries like you did and repeat all my tests a couple of more times!
Larry Mowry wrote:
Hahaha...Oh man...I been suffering bigtime with this cam...glad it's over with...darned cameras are more computers than cameras anymore...must have been a hangup in there somewhere...anyway...this is exactly why I bought the camera...
I'm thrilled...that plus the AI Focus setting...man..that is an amazing setting for my golf because say if Tiger Woods starts to move with an exciting fist pump I'll it automatically shifts to AI Servo and I got'em in perfect focus...Whew...I had the box out and was getting ready to send it to Canon repair...I'll bet that's all they are doing...clear settings and ship it back to everyone...ROFL
LM
Larry, congratulations with the solution you did on your camera. It sounds great to me, but because I am still waiting for my 10D It is still a bit abstract to me. I think I will manage clearing the settings if necessary, but what interests me most is the All Focus Setting. How did you do that and can you tell me what other settings you are using There is still so much to learn !!!
Thanks in advance and again I am very glad for you...
I believe Larry was referring to AI Focus. Here's the lowdown:
The camera has 3 AF modes:
One Shot- Locks focus at a fixed point
AI Servo- Continually focuses to track moving objects
AI Focus- Locks focus at a fixed point, but if the object you focused on moves, it switches to AI Servo automatically to track it.
Changing AF modes is easy. You just hit a button on top of the camera and turn a wheel, and it will toggle which mode you are in on the top LCD. That's all there is to it.
As for clearing the settings, there is a menu item literally labled "Clear settings".
Believe me, once you have the camera and get used to the buttons and menu, this will all be very clear and a snap to use. It's not nearly as hard as you may think... Canon's menu system is very well laid out
I believe Larry was referring to AI Focus. Here's the lowdown:
The camera has 3 AF modes:
One Shot- Locks focus at a fixed point
AI Servo- Continually focuses to track moving objects
AI Focus- Locks focus at a fixed point, but if the object you focused on moves, it switches to AI Servo automatically to track it.
Changing AF modes is easy. You just hit a button on top of the camera and turn a wheel, and it will toggle which mode you are in on the top LCD. That's all there is to it.
As for clearing the settings, there is a menu item literally labled "Clear settings".
Believe me, once you have the camera and get used to the buttons and menu, this will all be very clear and a snap to use. It's not nearly as hard as you may think... Canon's menu system is very well laid out
Joe...Show more →
THANK YOU VERY MUCH Joe for your kind explanation. I am impatiently waiting for my 10D. I hope it does not take a long time any more before my camera arrives.
So maybe the issue may pop back up again later as people are using the camera. This may be a firmware related problem it's just that we're able to get it back to "normal" by resetting.
), I'll hold off on the enthusiasm until someone is able to publish "before" and "after" tests with the AF. I'm skeptical that simply changing (or resetting) camera settings will fix actual AF problems (unless there is a hidden C.Fn called "Enable/disable accurate AF" 
There is still so much to learn !!!