We spent a few days near Lewisburg W. VA and as we were traveling by car, I had room for my IR kit. The 720nm filter allows some split tone possibilities as well as straight monochrome. Here are a couple of each.
aboudd wrote:
Yes, it doesn't do much with the 720 nm.
Actually, I think you would be surprised. I pulled your church and bridge into PS and tried it to confirm. It turns the yellowish sky tones more blue-gray and the blue trees a yellow-orange-amber. the bridge is especially interesting due to both colors being present in the foliage. I’d be happy to post them here if you want, but only with your permission 👍
The nice thing about manipulating channels with IR is the varying results available. I work with 4 different filters as my camera is a full spectrum mod. I find the 720 to be more interesting than some of the others, like the 590, but it of course depends on what I am shooting.
Permission granted. Go ahead and post your version, I'd like to see it. Then you have to tell me how you got to it!
Here's one with the blue sky. I can't recall how I did this. It was one of my first with IR a few years ago.
aboudd wrote:
The nice thing about manipulating channels with IR is the varying results available. I work with 4 different filters as my camera is a full spectrum mod. I find the 720 to be more interesting than some of the others, like the 590, but it of course depends on what I am shooting.
Permission granted. Go ahead and post your version, I'd like to see it. Then you have to tell me how you got to it!
Here's one with the blue sky. I can't recall how I did this. It was one of my first with IR a few years ago. ...Show more →
Here is what I did, took less than a minute each in PS. In PS, add a channel mixer layer over the base image. Open the Red channel and move Red to 0 and Blue to 100%. Similarly, go to the Blue channel and move Blue to 0 and Red to 100%. This generates the R<>B swap images off your base files shown below. For the second set, you can do a full channel swap and generate a softer color version with grayer blues and closer to IR mono style foliage. Here you open the red channel and set Red to 0 and both Green and Blue to 50% each, repeat similarly for other channels. Note, Once you do this, you can save these swaps as a preset for one-button convenience later, I name them RB Swap and Full Swap. Finally, I did add a minor saturation and contrast tweak to each after conversion, but this step is of course optional and to your own taste.
The results while similar, will of course will vary depending on the IR pass filter used, generating more significant "color" with the shorter band width filters. I do think if you go above 720, you loose almost all color data, but IDK because I've always preferred 590 or 720 myself depending on my mood Curious to hear your thoughts!
Which camera are you using for this? A friend of mine had and then sold the Fuji IS Pro due to difficulties focusing on the IR plane. I'd love to dabble in full spectrum / IR someday!
I had a modified Fuji XH-1 a couple of years ago. It. Was a Lifepixel super color conversion if I recall accurately. I never had focus issues with it. Now I use a full spectrum Fuji GFX, this time done by Kolari. No focus issues at all. I suspect the issue was with whomever did the conversion. If you decide to pursue it, use either Kolari or Lifepixel, both are reliable, do good work and have good reputations. Let me know if you need any more help with this.
Thank you for the advice, I will look into Kolari!
The IS Pro was a version of the 2007 CCD Fujifilm S5 Pro that came from the factory full spectrum modified - but used the same visible light dependent TTL phase-detect AF that all DSLRs used to have. Thus, no luck on anything but guessing with manual focus. Very cool camera but not super practical.
I am not at all familiar with that camera, or with all the technical stuff. I'm one of those guys who likes sausage but doesn't care how it's made. That applies to Photography gear as well. In any case my experience with Fuji has been great. It sounds like you know a bit about this stuff, but some lenses do well with IR and some get hotspots. Before you do anything on a camera talk to Kolari and see what lenses they recommend for the format you intend to use. I found that the 45 to 100 on my GFX is near perfect, however the 20 to 35 can get a hotspot if the sun is in my face.
Curious to hear your thoughts!
