philip_pj
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 p.14 #5 · Considering a Leica Q3 43 but used to Sony | |
Thank you for these images, I know how hard it is to do. There are significant differences but many are swamped by the differences in exposure - may be transmission differences as you used the same f-stop, or the light changed on you between sets.
Given how hard it is to set it all up, one suggestion is to simply take a set at different apertures besides the lowest common denominator - say, f4 and f8. You gain a better and more representative picture of how we typically shoot such material, at the best apertures.
These are all, effectively, bokeh images with missing middle ground between the near-focused object and the distance. A higher vantage point will help here. You can, after the setup, also do a set focused at longer focal distances - say 3-4 metres; these look to be about one metre or so. What you gain here: you instantly see foreground bokeh and focus fade in both directions.
Nature shots work well because you see image motifs of different sizes, with high levels of tonal grading and color gradation as well. Cars, buildings etc. posterize as they have a uniform color tone, so you only have the light to provide gradation. It's why most lenses handle that subject matter well.
It's critical to be mindful that you are seeing only a smidgen, the merest of looks, at what each lens is capable of and may be trying to do. We all need an overall balance of image types - light conditions, apertures, focal distances, image contents, angle of viewpoint all play a huge part and this is the reason to try to get as much done in one set as possible.
It also helps to choose representative setups of what you intend to do in real life shooting, your familiarity will help you see differences, and it will matter more to you. Last point: it is critical to equalise exposure of the white point at least, both WP and black points are best, so you can see shadow detail and highlight detail retention. Exposure changes everything.
PS these both focus to 0.25m so a close focus set would be great as well, you can do this indoors - very 'illuminating', often.
PPS you don't need anything more than 1500x1000 jpegs made for the project, images are gestalt objects. We need to see the interaction of the motifs - the 'flow' of the image - unless you lapse into 'surveillance mode'. No one puts 100% crops on their wall (I hope).
PPPS 'Looking through' the bokeh effect, I prefer the Leica here, better color response and color tone spread, more longitudinal 'life' esp. water, greater subtlety. But it's now hard to buy a poor lens, and the Sony did well too. And it's very personal. thanks again!
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