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Sony A7RVI

  
 
DWOfPaul
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p.82 #1 · Sony A7RVI


gdanmitchell wrote:
Taking a look at photographs made at varying apertures, preferably in the form of real world outputs such as prints, will give you a much better idea. :-)


Agreed. Since the impact of diffraction varies by lens, I just thought it would be a useful tip to point out, especially if someone is curious about a lens they don't own.

If anyone wants to see a more visual example. Photographylife doesn't have MTF test for many Sony lenses, but they did recently publish samples of what different MTF values look like, which definitely helps put their test into perspective:
https://photographylife.com/how-our-sharpness-measurements-look-in-photos

You can basically determine what level of sharpness is acceptable to you and then compare it to the results of various lenses.



Jul 16, 2026 at 10:41 AM
LarryChen
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p.82 #2 · Sony A7RVI


Ross Martin wrote:
On the topic of color differences, here is a comparison of converted RAW files from A7R6 and Nikon Z8 on a 100% crop of my usual test scene - I equalized WB using the eyedropper in LR, no other color work was done. For my use, these colors are so close to identical that color differences are a non-issue for me and not a reason I choose one camera over the other. YMMV.


Which is which camera?



Jul 16, 2026 at 11:26 AM
gdanmitchell
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p.82 #3 · Sony A7RVI


The impact of diffraction really does not vary appreciably by lens. (Secondary design issues like number and shape of aperture blades could conceivably make diffraction blur look different, I suppose, but that’s pretty small potatoes.)

The presence of diffraction blur is not the result of lens design. It is an optical phenomenon that affects all lenses equally based on the aperture used.

DWOfPaul wrote:
Agreed. Since the impact of diffraction varies by lens, I just thought it would be a useful tip to point out, especially if someone is curious about a lens they don't own.



Jul 16, 2026 at 03:33 PM
duncangr
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p.82 #4 · Sony A7RVI


Some folks said it wouldn't be possible to get sharp images with the A7R5 and the 200-600 f/6.3 because diffraction will start affecting images at anything less than f/5.6 and/or because the 200-600 wasn't sharp enough to resolve images for this high resolution sensor (whatever that means).

This image taken with the 200-600 + 1.4TC @840mm f/9.

There seems to be a gap between theory and what can be achieved in practice. Whatever theory they are using it doesn't seem to account for the fact that @840mm the subject is much larger in the frame and any softening because of diffraction is probably negligible compared to the increased subject size and can be effectively eliminated in post processing without losing any of the additional detail from the higher resolution sensor.








Jul 16, 2026 at 04:52 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.82 #5 · Sony A7RVI


^^^
The gap is that some people confuse the fact that one aperture is sharpest (in the context of diffraction-limited apertures) with the reality that other apertures can also produce photographs of excellent sharpness.

It is kind of a classic case of the misapplication f a fact.

Just because one aperture is "the sharpest" by some criteria doesn't mean that other apertures cannot also produce very sharp photographs.



Jul 16, 2026 at 05:21 PM
indusphoto
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p.82 #6 · Sony A7RVI


The image is obviously processed with AI based sharpening and denoising. Since AI fills in details missing in the original, it equalizes the advantages of better lenses/aperture.

I am not against these tools just saying that it is not the right image to demonstrate lens performance.




duncangr wrote:
Some folks said it wouldn't be possible to get sharp images with the A7R5 and the 200-600 f/6.3 because diffraction will start affecting images at anything less than f/5.6 and/or because the 200-600 wasn't sharp enough to resolve images for this high resolution sensor (whatever that means).

This image taken with the 200-600 + 1.4TC @840mm f/9.

There seems to be a gap between theory and what can be achieved in practice. Whatever theory they are using it doesn't seem to account for the fact that @840mm the subject is much larger in the frame and any softening because of diffraction is
...Show more →



Jul 16, 2026 at 10:06 PM
jayoco
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p.82 #7 · Sony A7RVI


bcaslis wrote:
Thanks but do you have one? Here is the link for the A7R VI and it lists a histogram + level: https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2620/v1/en/contents/251h_disp_set_still.html?search=display

The one you listed for the A1 II does not have this, which is why I am asking.



No. You can't. You have to click through the display button which is very annoying. That setting on the RVI is great and I hope they can bring this to the A1 II via firmware.






Jul 17, 2026 at 06:38 AM
Ross Martin
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p.82 #8 · Sony A7RVI


RRS has their L-bracket for the A7R6 up for preorder for $215. They have made an interesting design choice: the place where your pinky tip would naturally rest has no metal, it’s open. This is their way of enabling battery access, as opposed to the other L-bracket makers like Smallrig and Leophoto who build in a lever to open/close for battery access and those designs maintain a full plate wraparound at bottom of grip for your finger.












Jul 17, 2026 at 11:25 AM
gdanmitchell
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p.82 #9 · Sony A7RVI


Ross Martin wrote:
RRS has their L-bracket for the A7R6 up for preorder for $215. They have made an interesting design choice: the place where your pinky tip would naturally rest has no metal, it’s open. This is their way of enabling battery access, as opposed to the other L-bracket makers like Smallrig and Leophoto who build in a lever to open/close for battery access and those designs maintain a full plate wraparound at bottom of grip for your finger.


Well, now that the RRS L-bracket is available, I’m going to have to get serious about figuring out my lens situation and moving ahead with a purchase. (Ross, I will likely PM you with some basic lens questions, since I suspect that some of your photography has similar requirements to mine. If you’d prefer, I can make the message that I’ll send into a FM board post for wider sharing.)

That’s an interesting approach to the question of how to deal with batter access.

My old 5DsR RRS L-bracket uses the “solid” (for lack of a better simple description) design for the plate — the bracket extends almost all the way across the camera bottom, but stops short of the battery compartment door. Because the overall L-bracket is fairly large on this camera, I don’t really think about it stopping before the shutter-button-end of the camera. (It is a solid design that is practical and has worked for over a decade without a hiccup.) Also important: there’s plenty of space between the “L” and the side of the camera to plug in the Canon remote release cable with its 90 degree angle plug.

I ended up with a Kirk L-bracket for my Fujifim XT5. I went with Kirk for this because I had an unfortunate experience with an early RRS bracket for another Fujifilm camera, the XPro-2. I “discovered” in the field (with the field unfortunately being day 2 of a multi day backpacking trip) that RRS had not left enough space between the “L” section and the camera body for Fujifilm’s own remote release connection. (I was not, literally, a “happy camper” on that trip.) I wasn’t confident in the updated RRS design for the XT5, so I went with the Kirk. It basically is solid, but…

… It also is “short” in order to leave the battery door accessible. The problem is that the body is smaller than the 5DsR, so the bottom plate is shorter and covers a smaller percentage of the camera’s bottom plate. I’m also less than excited about how they resolved the issue with space between the “L” section and the side of the camera where cables connect. It works, but it is a bit cumbersome. The solution is to put a lick nut on the “L” section when it connects to the base plate, stash a hex key to the bottom of the bracket (it is a sort of slick design for that), and have you slide the “L” section in and out as needed, and lock/unlock the plate.

Is that the case with the RRS L-bracket for the A7r6? Do you know if you slide it in and out to plug in a remote release, etc.? It looks like the “L” section fits pretty close to the side of the body in the photos

I’ll also be interested to hear from users about whether (and how) that extension around the battery door affects mounting the camera to the tripod. I’m assung that it doesn’t get in the way at all, but it will be good to know. (It might be an issue if you slide the camera into the bracket from that side — though that might not really be a problem.)



Jul 17, 2026 at 03:42 PM
Jack Flesher
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p.82 #10 · Sony A7RVI


gdanmitchell wrote:
Well, now that the RRS L-bracket is available, I’m going to have to get serious about figuring out my lens situation and moving ahead with a purchase. (Ross, I will likely PM you with some basic lens questions, since I suspect that some of your photography has similar requirements to mine. If you’d prefer, I can make the message that I’ll send into a FM board post for wider sharing.)

That’s an interesting approach to the question of how to deal with batter access.

My old 5DsR RRS L-bracket uses the “solid” (for lack of a better simple description) design for
...Show more →

Lenses are easy Dan — the newest 16-35 and 24-70 f2.8 zooms, the 70-200/2.8 or the 50-150/2 depending on your needs, then the new 100-400 and 400-800 and of course the 1.4x. Add the macro if it’s something you do. Simple.



Jul 17, 2026 at 04:02 PM
 


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gdanmitchell
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p.82 #11 · Sony A7RVI


Jack Flesher wrote:
Lenses are easy Dan — the newest 16-35 and 24-70 f2.8 zooms, the 70-200/2.8 or the 50-150/2 depending on your needs, then the new 100-400 and 400-800 and of course the 1.4x. Add the macro if it’s something you do. Simple.


Jack, those focal lengths would be my default choices since they basically match what I use on my Canon system.

One thing that still confuses me about Sony offerings though: On Canon, some of my f/4 EF L lenses match the image quality of their EF L f/2.8 counterparts. Two of these are standbys for my photography with my 5DsR:

- EF 16-35mm f/4L IS
- EF 70-200mm f/4L IS

(Since I don't use the 16-35mm lens a lot, I may use the EF lens with an adapter rather than buy a new Sony lens.)

But there seems to be a notion by some on the Sony side that Sony f/4 lenses aren't optically in the same league as the f/2.8 lenses. If that's really true, I'll likely get the f/2.8 versions, but I'd prefer to have, at least, the f/4 version of the 70-200mm lens. I don't really need f/2.8 on that lens, and I refer a smaller and lighter lens if possible. (I had the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS, and it was a fantastic lens... but the f/4 alternative is essentially equivalent in optical terms.)

So, I'm interested in experience and impressions from those who have used the f/2.8 and f/4 versions of Sony's 16-35mm and 70-200mm lenses in particular. (I'm more willing to go with the f/2.8 24-70, since that's what I have on the Canon system now — though I' consider an optically first class f/4 version here, too.)

The 100-400mm f/4.5 is virtually a certainty at this point, though a little nagging voice keeps asking if it will really be better optically than the newer f/4.5 lens and by how much and it what ways. I appreciate the smaller packed size of the telescoping zooms.

And...

... thinking a little further outside the box, lenses like the 24-105 f/4 aren't out of the question since they have some functional attractions, but only if optical quality is truly first rate. There are a few other oddball (to a person with my Canon background) but interesting options that I'd like to know more about, too:

12-24mm f/4 and f/2.8 lenses
15-25mm f/2.8 compact (I know nothing about this but saw it listed)
20-70mm f/4

Ross, if you are reading this, this is more or less the subject that I was going to ask you about...

Dan



Jul 17, 2026 at 05:44 PM
Ross Martin
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p.82 #12 · Sony A7RVI


gdanmitchell wrote:
Well, now that the RRS L-bracket is available, I’m going to have to get serious about figuring out my lens situation and moving ahead with a purchase. (Ross, I will likely PM you with some basic lens questions, since I suspect that some of your photography has similar requirements to mine. If you’d prefer, I can make the message that I’ll send into a FM board post for wider sharing.)

That’s an interesting approach to the question of how to deal with batter access.

My old 5DsR RRS L-bracket uses the “solid” (for lack of a better simple description) design for
...Show more →


Check it out here: https://reallyrightstuff.com/sony-a7rvi-l-bracket-set/

The L section can be pulled outward for access to side ports. For me, an important function of these L-plates is to extend under the grip on Sony so I have a place for my pinky to rest (much smaller vertical grip surface compared to your 5DR), so this new RRS design will not work for me. I have ordered the Smallrig which I’ve used on other cameras (and it’s only about $50).

Definitely start a thread on your lens considerations to get input, and I’ll happily contribute. The hardest thing about Sony is there are so many good options, not just the top of the line GM glass.




Jul 17, 2026 at 05:53 PM
Douglas L
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p.82 #13 · Sony A7RVI


gdanmitchell wrote:
Jack, those focal lengths would be my default choices since they basically match what I use on my Canon system.

One thing that still confuses me about Sony offerings though: On Canon, some of my f/4 EF L lenses match the image quality of their EF L f/2.8 counterparts. Two of these are standbys for my photography with my 5DsR:

- EF 16-35mm f/4L IS
- EF 70-200mm f/4L IS

(Since I don't use the 16-35mm lens a lot, I may use the EF lens with an adapter rather than buy a new Sony lens.)

But there seems to be a notion by
...Show more →

The Sony PZ 16-35 f4 and the 70-200 F4 G II are crazy sharp, especially the PZ 16-35, so light and compact. Sharpness is the least thing I worry about with those new lenses, The f2.8 versions may be a bit more contrasty.



Jul 17, 2026 at 05:59 PM
Jack Flesher
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p.82 #14 · Sony A7RVI


gdanmitchell wrote:
Jack, those focal lengths would be my default choices since they basically match what I use on my Canon system.

One thing that still confuses me about Sony offerings though: On Canon, some of my f/4 EF L lenses match the image quality of their EF L f/2.8 counterparts. Two of these are standbys for my photography with my 5DsR:

- EF 16-35mm f/4L IS
- EF 70-200mm f/4L IS

(Since I don't use the 16-35mm lens a lot, I may use the EF lens with an adapter rather than buy a new Sony lens.)

But there seems to be a notion by
...Show more →

Here’s what I have gleaned myself so far. In f4 zooms, the latest PZ 16-35 is excellent as is the latest 70-200/4, both excellent performers out of the gate at f4. The 24-105 is an aged design and leaves a little bit behind. The latest 24-70/2.8 is possibly the best of class across all manufacturers.

I have the 20-70/4 myself and it is very good wide open, excellent stopped down. But if I go in whole hog, I’ll probably buy the 24-70/2.8 just because it’s so remarkable, and the main landscape range I use. I personally have and find surprisingly excellent the tiny Samyang 18/2.8, and that would suffice for me for all my wider than 24 needs except perhaps astro, where I’d probably add the Sony 16/1.8 and be done on the UW end.

My issue with the 70-200/4 is whenever I’ve needed that lens in the past, I wanted f2.8 at the 200 end more than anything in-between. Here I would take a hard look at the new 50-150/2. Almost eye-wateringly expensive, but whatever, I’d probably use it wide open enough to justify it. Then the 100-400 and 400-800 would well cover my needs beyond; which in fact nowadays are infrequent enough that a 200-600 would probably be fine for the times I’d want that range. And even though the IQ is not up to the others, it would represent a huge cost savings and significant space savings.

All FWIW.



Jul 17, 2026 at 07:36 PM
bwcolor
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p.82 #15 · Sony A7RVI


gdanmitchell wrote:
Jack, those focal lengths would be my default choices since they basically match what I use on my Canon system.

One thing that still confuses me about Sony offerings though: On Canon, some of my f/4 EF L lenses match the image quality of their EF L f/2.8 counterparts. Two of these are standbys for my photography with my 5DsR:

- EF 16-35mm f/4L IS
- EF 70-200mm f/4L IS

(Since I don't use the 16-35mm lens a lot, I may use the EF lens with an adapter rather than buy a new Sony lens.)

But there seems to be a notion by
...Show more →

I’ve been with Sony since the NEX days and have purchased so many lenses after coming to rational decisions as to need and use. If I were jumping to Sony, I would start with my main core shooting requirements and keep the lenses few. I’ve sold and have many more fine lenses to sell. They are lenses that provided superb optics and are of great build. My research was solid, but in the end my real needs became few. I prefer the Sony 16mm f/1.8 G and 24mm f/1.4 GM vs wide zoom. Both are fast. I sold and repurchased the 24mm. I purchased the 24-70mm f/4.0, but mine wasn’t quite right and followed up with a killer small one and done lens, the 24-50mm f/2.8 G. This lens, paired with the A7R6’s APSc mode covers 24-70mm in a package no larger than the 24mm GM. The 16mm, 24mm and 24-50mm all take 67mm filters. The next-to-last of the lenses that I’m keeping is the 50-150mm f/2.0 lens. This is one of the few relatively expensive lenses that is well worth the purchase. The 18/24/50-150mm form my basic travel kit. I have to say, that if you can handle the size, the 28-70mm f/2.0 is also supposed to be a killer lens, where as the f/2.8 24-70mm GMii has garnered many quality control complaints on this forum. I have no personal experience here. Ah, the 100mm f/2.8 Macro GM (67mm filters) is another of the real killer Sony lenses. It and the f/2.0 zooms were on my radar with the idea that I might revisit some Korean and Japanese locals that I visited with 21mm and 35mm lenses on Leica and come away with a totally different look. That’s just what works for me. I have other lenses like the three Loxias that are world class killer lenses. The 85mm will stand up against any portrait lens that I have, including the 90mm on the X2D2, but for some reason I just don’t use it that much. Additionally, the 50-150mm f/2.0 might just best all these lenses on the long end. I’m not sure, but it sure produces nice images.



Jul 17, 2026 at 09:44 PM
duncangr
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p.82 #16 · Sony A7RVI


Lege Artis wrote:
You are mixing two different things.

Yes, ISO 5000 can absolutely produce a beautiful image — nobody is disputing that.
But a nice-looking downsized JPEG does not prove that a camera has excellent ISO 5000 performance compared to another camera.
That requires a controlled comparison: RAW files, identical processing, same output size. Otherwise you are evaluating the whole processing chain, not the sensor performance.
A great photograph proves the photographer and the workflow succeeded. It does not automatically prove the technical superiority of the camera.




Check your assumptions.

That's a crop from a lossless compressed RAW A7RM6 file processed the same way and using the same software I normally use.

Who cares whether it has excellent ISO 5000 performance compared to another camera if the other camera does have 66mp, 30fps RAW, RAW pre-capture and excellent autofocus and reduces the chance of capturing the image in the first place ?

And who cares if the ISO 5000 performance of one sensor is technically better than another sensor if the final post processed result is the same or perhaps better in some respect e.g. better fine detail, or better DR when downsampled to the same output size ?

I couldn't care less about the technical superiority of the camera, I'll leave that for you to worry about. I care only that I can capture the images I want it to capture when using it and that when the final output is produced it meets my expectations.



Jul 17, 2026 at 10:04 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.82 #17 · Sony A7RVI


I appreciate those who have shared their experience with various Sony lenses in response to my post earlier on this page. For anyone else who may want to share, first, thanks in advance. Second, let me lay out af ewe things that are pretty much non-negotiable regarding the lenses I’ll get.

- With very few possible exceptions (perhaps only one, see below) I’m only interested in zoom lenses. That’s what I’ve used for my landscape (and wildlife) photography for the past couple of decades, and it works well for me.

- As wonderful as some of the new f/2 zooms (from various manufacturers) are, they aren’t for me. I’m sure that they are attractive to many photographers, but having an f/2 maximum aperture in a zoom isn’t something I desire.

- Optical quality of the lens is very high on my list of important factors — perhaps most important. But that doesn’t necessarily mean the lens that ranks “the best” in various technical tests, as long as a lens is excellent.

- Weight an bulk are not unimportant for me. (That’s one reason that I’m not personally interested int eh f/2 zooms.) If a lens with a maximum aperture of f/4 is an excellent optical performer, then I prefer that over a lens with a larger f/2.8 or f/2 zoom. (I’ve owned those in the past and traded them in for f/4 lenses, with the current exception of the 24-70 f/2.8.) If the only way to get sufficient optical quality and /or functionality is to get a f/2.8 lens, I’ll do it, but it is not my goal.

- Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I’ll likely get the new 100-400 f/4.5. I’ve happily used a f/4.50f/5.6 Canon 100-400, and I like its optical quality and the fact that it is smaller in the pack… but I’d love to hear more about it in comparison to the new f/4.5 zoom.

- The only prime I am likely to (eventually) consider would be the 100mm macro, which I’ve heard is very good. On the other hand I have the excellent Canon eF 100mm f/2.8 macro, and I may simply decide to use it with a converter unless I hear a good argument against that.

- The one other oddball thing I’d like to be able to do is to bring along my Pentax medium format 80-160mm zoom that I use with the Mirex TS adapter. I think I could do that by attaching the lens to the Mirex and the Mirex to a Canon EF to Sony adapter, but that’s starting to sound a big kludgy…

I know some well-meaning folks may be tempted to tell me “the best way to do my photography,” but I’m generally pretty confident at this point about what works for me, what I’ve tried and moved on from, and so forth. :-)

Again, thanks. I much appreciate your input.

(If you’d rather PM me than post here, that’s fine, too.)



Jul 17, 2026 at 10:43 PM
Ross Martin
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p.82 #18 · Sony A7RVI


gdanmitchell wrote:
I appreciate those who have shared their experience with various Sony lenses in response to my post earlier on this page. For anyone else who may want to share, first, thanks in advance. Second, let me lay out af ewe things that are pretty much non-negotiable regarding the lenses I’ll get.

- With very few possible exceptions (perhaps only one, see below) I’m only interested in zoom lenses. That’s what I’ve used for my landscape (and wildlife) photography for the past couple of decades, and it works well for me.

- As wonderful as some of the new f/2 zooms (from
...Show more →

I will post some thoughts tomorrow on the lenses that I’ve tried and have worked out well for me. It’s past my bedtime right now 🤓



Jul 17, 2026 at 10:50 PM
Steve Spencer
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p.82 #19 · Sony A7RVI


gdanmitchell wrote:
Jack, those focal lengths would be my default choices since they basically match what I use on my Canon system.

One thing that still confuses me about Sony offerings though: On Canon, some of my f/4 EF L lenses match the image quality of their EF L f/2.8 counterparts. Two of these are standbys for my photography with my 5DsR:

- EF 16-35mm f/4L IS
- EF 70-200mm f/4L IS

(Since I don't use the 16-35mm lens a lot, I may use the EF lens with an adapter rather than buy a new Sony lens.)

But there seems to be a notion by
...Show more →

Hi Dan,

Sony has two designations for their professional lenses G and GM. Sony/Zeiss lenses are a third category of professional lenses but mostly irrelevant to this discussion as I wouldn't recommend any of the Sony/Zeiss zooms. Some people see the GM lenses as stronger than the G lenses and all the f/4 lenses are G lenses instead of GM and I think that is the source of some seeing the f/2.8 lenses as stronger. I think there is some truth to GM lenses being slightly stronger on average, but that doesn't mean some of the G lenses aren't excellent. What I have used personally is the older Sony/Zeiss 16-35 f/4 OSS, the 24-105 f/4 OSS G, and the 200-600 f/5.6-6.3 OSS G, I wouldn't really recommend any of these at this point. The first two are older and superceded by newer model and the 200-600 is quite large and obviously has a slower max aperture.

I think using your Canon EF 16-35 f/4L IS and your 70-200 f/4L iS is a good idea. They are both wonderful lenses, will adapt well, and Sony doesn't really have lenses quite as good that are directly comparable.

At 16-35 f/4 they have the Sony/Zeiss which I have used. It is a quite decent lens but has weaker corners which as a landscape photographer might not always have the resolution you want especially with the high resolution camera. The also have the 16-35 f/4 power zoom, which is nice and small, but personally I don't like using the power zoom in the field and find it pretty annoying, YMMV. It is sharp, however. You could always go with the 16-35 f/2.8 GM II. It, however, is not one of the highest regarded GM's but primarily people complain about its performance on the long end and that may not bother you if it overlaps with a lens that starts at 20 or 24. I think part of the issue here is the Mark II is better than the first model which people complained about but the complaints carried over to the Mark II version. You might also consider the 12-24 f/2.8 GM, which is considered by most the premium ultra-wide zoom. I think part of the reputation problems with the 16-35 f/2.8 (even the Mark II) is that it isn't seen as good as the 12-24 f/2.8 even if the 16-35 f/2.8 Mark II is still a really good lens. Finally, the 12-24 f/4 G is a bit of a sleeper. It is sharp and a good performer, but people mostly ignore it. Keep in mind I am mostly sharing reputation here as I have only used the Sony/Zeiss 16-35 f/4 OSS.

At 70-200 there are 3 basic lenses to consider from Sony. The premium lens is the 70-200 f/2.8 OSS GM II (here there is a rather large different between the first model and the Mark II with the Mark II being seen as much better and pretty universally praised). The Sony 70-200 f/4 OSS Macro G II (here again the Mark II is seen as much better than the first model that is seen as pretty weak) is a polarizing lens. Some love it and the macro capability of this lens is pretty unique, but others note it isn't as light as they expected and some complain about the performance on the long end. The are regular threads about whether this lens or the Tamron 70-180 f/2.8 VR G2 is better to get. The f/2.8 Tamron is actually a little lighter than the f/4 Canon, I think, but they are similar in size, and the Tamron is a very sharp and capable lens. Some question why not get the faster aperture if there really isn't a weight penalty. Again for a landscape shooter, that may not be a very compelling argument, but as I wrote above staying with your Canon lens might be the best choice.

You also mentioned the 16-25 f/2.8 G, which is in my view a really interesting small lens. It would be much smaller than you Canon lens and might serve the same purpose so worth thinking about as an interesting option instead of the Canon. You also mentioned the 20-70 f/4 G which is very well liked. It is a G lens that most people seem to think as highly or almost as highly of as the GM lenses.

So here is my take. It sounds like you are basically planning on this kit:

Canon 16-35 f/4L IS, Sony 24-70 f/2.8 GM II (again the Mark II is generally consider a pretty big improvement), the Canon 70-200 f/4L IS, and the Sony 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 OSS GM. That is a very good kit and should serve you well.

I might consider swapping out the first two lens for the Sony 16-25 f/2.8 G and the 20-70 f/4 G, which by reputation are great lenses and would let you have a much smaller kit.

I hope this is helpful.



Jul 18, 2026 at 12:00 AM
Andyuk109
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p.82 #20 · Sony A7RVI


When I switched over from Nikon, I had the 14-30 and hired the 16-35pz f4 and 16-35 f2.8 gmii to see which option to go with

Couldn't really see much difference, albeit testing was limited to a few shots of landscapes and brickwork, but if sharpness and portability are key, the 16-35pz is an excellent option, and if you aren't using it much, the PowerZoom functionality might not be a limiting factor (it's the least worst PowerZoom I've ever tried)

Coming from Nikon, I had a look at the 24-105 as a replacement for the 24-120, but it didn't feel comparable and I ended up with a 35-150 to go with the 16-35pz, it isn't as chunky as a lot of the reviews suggest but might be just outside your requirements in terms of size and quality

Have the 100mm macro as well, an excellent option and works very well with the 1.4TC, but rarely comes out with me. The older 100-400 and TC works so well for light macro work, I usually pack something else instead of a dedicated macro option now, but that probably wouldn't be an option with the newer 100-400

Choosing between all the excellent options is definitely a first-world problem, but if it helps, I ended up with

16-35pz & 35-150 as my default travel kit, adding a fast prime or the 100-400 depending on the trip
300-600 f4 and 100-400 on a second body as my wildlife options

With a few rarely used but fun AF lenses - a 35 f1.2, 40mm f2, 85mm f1.4 & 135mm f1.8, most of the time I'll add one of those to whatever bag I'm carrying



Jul 18, 2026 at 05:29 AM
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