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Sony A7RVI

  
 
bcaslis
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p.81 #1 · Sony A7RVI


A question for those with the A1 II, can you display in the viewfinder both the level and histogram at the same time? I know you can do it with the A7R VI since I was able to try this in a store but no store around me has an A1 II. I can't find any documentation online or setup video that shows this (boy the Sony documentation is bad). I'm trying to decide between the A1 II and the A7R VI and this is something that I use (all the recent Z cameras and Canons allow this).



Jul 14, 2026 at 11:13 PM
old-gregg
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p.81 #2 · Sony A7RVI


bcaslis wrote:
A question for those with the A1 II, can you display in the viewfinder both the level and histogram at the same time? I can't find any documentation online or setup video that shows this (boy the Sony documentation is bad).


Yes.
https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2440/v1/en/contents/0403B_disp_set.html



Jul 15, 2026 at 12:10 AM
ajamils
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p.81 #3 · Sony A7RVI


DWOfPaul wrote:
@ajamils@ As someone with a Z8 and a a7rIV, most of the major considerations have already been mentioned. On the editing side, I have found my Z8 raw files easier to edit in LR. There is nothing wrong with the Sony files, but they do seem to take more work to get them to where I would like. As you noted, WB and color science seem to have been improved since the a7rIV, but I don't have any firsthand experience to back this up.

The biggest thing I would add is on the size/weight side. If you're going with smaller
...Show more →

My plan is to go to smaller lenses and that's why I am considering Sony. I already have Tamron 70-180 G2 so plan to add 20-70 F4. Hopefully, that would give me significant weight and size saving.



Jul 15, 2026 at 10:04 AM
Andyuk109
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p.81 #4 · Sony A7RVI


@ajamils@

Don't think I can add much to the discussion but recently swapped from a Z8 to an A7rvi

My own experience, as a casual user is that there isn't much difference

The extra resolution and dynamic range are nice, but not immediately noticeable, the slower readout speed hasnt really been a problem

Ergonomics are a factor, I liked the Z8 and can only use the A7Rvi for long periods with a grip

A lot more customisation options on the A7Rvi which may appeal to power users but havent radically improved anything for me

Initial focus and the 'stickiness' of focus tracking are better on the sony but then I was using e mount lenses on my Z8 so not ideal there

That said, I dont regret the switch (unlike the Zf to A7CR change) the A7Rvi feels like it has more potential somehow

Edit - should add, software support for the A7Rvi isnt great yet if you dont use lightroom, I used to use DXO and Luminar but neither fully support the A7Rvi yet



Jul 15, 2026 at 10:19 AM
Ross Martin
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p.81 #5 · Sony A7RVI


Anyone wanting to try additional color profiles might consider Color Fidelity (https://www.colorfidelity.com), I have bought them for every camera dating back to my Nikon DLSR days. For $25 you will get for the A7R6 five profiles - Linear, Natural, Standard, Portrait, High. Another set of tools if you like to have a choice besides Adobe for color and contrast rendering differences.





Edited on Jul 15, 2026 at 07:08 PM · View previous versions



Jul 15, 2026 at 10:33 AM
bcaslis
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p.81 #6 · Sony A7RVI


old-gregg wrote:
Yes.
https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2440/v1/en/contents/0403B_disp_set.html


Thanks but do you have one? Here is the link for the A7R VI and it lists a histogram + level: https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2620/v1/en/contents/251h_disp_set_still.html?search=display

The one you listed for the A1 II does not have this, which is why I am asking.




Jul 15, 2026 at 10:37 AM
bcaslis
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p.81 #7 · Sony A7RVI


Ross Martin wrote:
Anyone wanting to try additional color profiles might consider Color Fidelity (https://www.colorfidelity.com), I have bought them for every camera dating back to my Nikon DLSR days. For $25 you will get for the A7R6 five profiles - Linear, Natural, Standard, Portrait, High. Another set of tools if you like to have a choice besides Adobe for color and contrast rendering differences. Below is a comparison of Adobe Standard on left and Color Fidelity Natural on right.


I would second this. I have not tried them for the A7R VI but I have used them for other cameras in the past and they are excellent.



Jul 15, 2026 at 10:39 AM
ajamils
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p.81 #8 · Sony A7RVI


Andyuk109 wrote:
@ajamils@@

Don't think I can add much to the discussion but recently swapped from a Z8 to an A7rvi

My own experience, as a casual user is that there isn't much difference

The extra resolution and dynamic range are nice, but not immediately noticeable, the slower readout speed hasnt really been a problem

Ergonomics are a factor, I liked the Z8 and can only use the A7Rvi for long periods with a grip

A lot more customisation options on the A7Rvi which may appeal to power users but havent radically improved anything for me

Initial focus and the 'stickiness' of focus tracking are
...Show more →

Thanks for the details. Z8 is the first camera that I have owned this long so definitely not something that I hate using or want to get rid of it. It is more about GAS. Having owned most Sony bodies before Z8 came out, A7rVI is first Sony release that really enticed me to look at Sony again.

Ergonomics wise I do like the button placement on Z8 as everything is within reach without going into menu but Sony is more customizable so I never really had any issue with it in the past. One thing that I absolutely hate on Z8 is implementation of User Settings. They just do not make sense.



Jul 15, 2026 at 10:44 AM
Andyuk109
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p.81 #9 · Sony A7RVI


I didn't have anything against the Z8, last proper camera I used was a D810 and gave up photography for a long while

It was initially a Zf that got me back into it amd then a Z8, really liked a lot of the things that other dont like about it - the size, not as customisable as other options etc

On paper, some of the specs made it look a little dated, in reality I never pushed it hard enough to bump up against those limits and im unlikely to do so on the A7r either

The biggest tangible benefits Ive felt are around how the different metering options work, Ive found it much easier to avoid clipping highlights on the Sony (gannets in particular) and the Sony pre capture options

Both of those have made a difference for me and justify the upgrade (albeit clipping highlights on the Z8 was more than likely user error!)



Jul 15, 2026 at 12:26 PM
RoamingScott
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p.81 #10 · Sony A7RVI


Andyuk109 wrote:
clipping highlights on the Z8 was more than likely user error!


If you managed to still clip highlights in Highlight metering, I'm impressed! I've actually tweaked my highlight metering to be -0.7 EV instead of -1.0 because it's so heavy-handed out of the box.



Jul 15, 2026 at 12:28 PM
 


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Andyuk109
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p.81 #11 · Sony A7RVI


Auto iso & matrix metering with between -0.3 and -1 ev dialled in from memory (so basically user error for gannets on a bright day)

For me, the zebra display on the Sony is a really handy tool to help avoid those sort of schoolboy errors



Jul 15, 2026 at 02:01 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.81 #12 · Sony A7RVI


Andyuk109 wrote:
For me, the zebra display on the Sony is a really handy tool to help avoid those sort of schoolboy errors


Agree about clipping indicators. And even people way past the “schoolboy” level occasionally blow out a few exposures on white birds in sunlight, especially if the background is not also bright.



Jul 15, 2026 at 02:58 PM
Ross Martin
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p.81 #13 · Sony A7RVI


.

Edited on Jul 15, 2026 at 07:01 PM · View previous versions



Jul 15, 2026 at 03:51 PM
Douglas L
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p.81 #14 · Sony A7RVI


I think Albert Dros routinely shoots at f13, f16 territory, if I am not mistaken.


Jul 15, 2026 at 04:23 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.81 #15 · Sony A7RVI


tanks for taking the time to make those examples, Ross.

Over the decades I have at times accepted various kinds of advice about aperture selection that turned out to be wrong, or at last not always exactly right.

A LONG time ago, when I was a young guy shooting film, I accepted the idea that f/16 was "the sharpest" aperture — obviously confusing "sharpness" with "depth of field."

Later I was enlighten about diffraction blur and accepted the idea that f/8 was sharpest and that stopped down beyond that was not a great idea. (In many case, if you don't need larger or smaller apertures, that can still be a decent bet, though today it might be larger aperture than f/8 in many situations.)

Then one day (with my first full frame digital camera) I went out with a few of my favorite lenses and a tripod and just made a Buch of exposures at different apertures, which I then compared in post, and discovered...

... that you can make very sharp photographs at f/11 and even f/16 on FF.

A bit later I distinctly recall seeing a very large image shot on a FF system at f/22 that looked very sharp. (I'm not talking about some kind of test bench optimal measurement — I'm talking about the actual appearance of the print.) Since that time I've been willing to sometimes use f/22 if DOF is more important that absolute maximum theoretical image sharpness, and it can work pretty darned well.

Part of this might come down to subject matter, some of it to the other factors that influence the subjective sense of sharpness in an image, and some of it to skillful post-processing, including sharping techniques.

One other really important thing — that some of you already know, but others seem to not yet understand: The amount of diffraction blur, which increases as ou stop down beyond the diffraction-limited aperture, is {b}unaffected by the sensor resolution. It is an optical phenomenon, not a sensor phenomenon.

If you could take two otherwise identical cameras with the same lens and aperture, where one has a 16Mp sensor and the other has a 60MP sensor, and make two otherwise identical photographs of the same subject... the size of the diffraction blur in both images will be exactly the same. If you made, say, 30" x 40" prints from both images and checked for diffraction blur, there would be precisely the same amount in both of them.

The difference is only that the higher MP sensor system more accurately captures the diffraction blur, while the lower MP system captures that identical diffraction with less detail, if that makes sense. IN other words, the higher MP system version is a more accurate "capture" of the light projected by the lens.

Even better, since the diffraction limited aperture is larger on the high MP system, if you are using an excellent lens and you open up a bit more past the diffraction-limited aperture on the low MP system, the resolution will continue to improve a bit more on the high MP system.

There is no "diffraction disadvantage" to using higher resolution sensors. The only possible difference always favor the higher MP system.



Jul 15, 2026 at 05:02 PM
philip_pj
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p.81 #16 · Sony A7RVI


A few notes, Ross, and of course thanks for doing this.

. there is no tougher subject matter than busy natural scenes, by their nature books are all about broad edges; it is simply unrepresentative of typical use cases, if only because there is little to no depth. They are easy to find, and lazy reviewers like them. But they tell you little.

. few use a fast 135mm for any form of landscapes, which is the prime intended usage of Sony's R cameras;

. no one shoots regular natural subject matter that matters to an R Sony at this focal distance with a 135mm; many portrait lenses (like the V here) are 'softened' in the design stage at close focus (a skin tone issue); medium distance focusing will elicit higher levels of performance at optimum apertures, widening the gap to diffraction impacted apertures;

. your recovery workflow is time-consuming, fussy and extensive; and very probably image-specific making it an onerous overhead for putting lipstick on a pig, so to speak;

. the left side images are still clearly 'crisper';

, focus stacking is stymied by even small shifts in focus breathing and longitudinal changes in field curvature;

. by impacting (flattening) MTF, diffraction apertures retard depth perception by reducing lens contrast - the differences between tones (both brightness and color) are diminished; the 'sparkle' is gone.

. modern lens design is overwhelmingly dominated by the market need for greater MTF at wider apertures, it can be done better, as the Leica SL APOs show;

. lenses with more gradual focus fade are better open field options (they model human vision more realistically), and they tend to be slower lenses;

. Albert's very stylized work generally features 'near-far' compositions, using a lot of saturation, little gradual focus fade, and plenty of darker tones - all these help mask deficiencies in sharpness, not that his dramatic work depends much on that aspect of imaging.

. we don't lose everything with diffraction and the fear of it is overdone, and one's specific work may not need much final peak MTF, we all shoot differently.

. nevertheless, it's real and it's best to avoid your particular threshold value for image deterioration;

, it varies by many aspects of lens design, most older spherical lenses were wonderful for DOF presentation even near the generally accepted threshold of f8-f11; others - in particular APOs - have so much more to lose, being designed for peak work near wide open.

Not many people have seen a full series of MTF aperture as the makers try to keep it out of sight, as with so much else they do. Here is a link to an all-aperture series given to Lloyd Chambers by Carl Zeiss for the Batis 85/1.8 - an 11/8 modern design with 3 APD elements and FLE. It shows, using a nifty panel below the chart, MTF for all apertures from f1.8 to f16.

We always look first at axial performance, the on-axis MTF for 40lpmm are as follows:

f1.8 - 66; f2 - 69; f2.8 - 76; f4 - 78; f5.6 - 79; f8 - 75; f11 - 70; f16 - 56.

That simple step from f8 to f11 loses the user 7% and f16 loses him 25%. From peak (f5.6), f11 'costs' 11% and f16 costs 29%. We can quite validly extrapolate f13 as ~midway between f11 and f16, and find that it costs us 75-63 = 12/75 or 16% from f8, and 79-63 = 16/79 or 20% from f5.6.

But do visit this link and use the widget to get a solid idea of what is happening, it's one case where a picture tells us plenty:

https://diglloyd.com/blog/2015/20150429_1044-ZeissBatis-85f1_8-MTF.html

Good advice in the digital age is to aperture-bracket f8 and f11, for most lenses for most compositions. If your image foreground is 50m away, f5.6 is indicated for 85mm or so FLs.



Jul 15, 2026 at 05:50 PM
DWOfPaul
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p.81 #17 · Sony A7RVI


Taking a look at MTF charts gives a good idea of how much diffraction will impact sharpness.

To keep things similar lets take a look at the Viltrox 85mm f1.4 Pro at 42mp:
https://www.lenstip.com/696.4-Lens_review-Viltrox_AF_85_mm_f_1.4_Pro_Image_resolution.html

f5.6 is noticeably sharper than f11, but f11 is similar in sharpness to f1.4 or f2. Most photographers would probably be happy with the IQ, at f1.4, so they would probably be happy with the IQ at f11. Things get more debatable at f16, though. at f16 you end up around an MTF of 40. If this were a small, cheap lens, most photographers would probably be okay, if not happy, with the performance. But if you just spent 1k + on a large and heavy f1.4 lens and then you are mainly using it a f16, your paobbly not getting your money's worth.



Jul 15, 2026 at 06:27 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.81 #18 · Sony A7RVI


Nice work. Your attack on Ross’s helpful post seems to have persuaded him to delete it. Proud of yourself?

- - -

As difficult as it was, I actually waded through your voluminous post with its 14 (!) bullet points and extended riff on MTF. Or something.

What in the world is the point of this?

Ross helpfully provided real-world examples that demonstrate that the effects of diffraction blur in actual photographs are often quite small, an observation that is known to and obvious to virtually every photographer I know. I suspect that he’s had enough of responses like this one, which comes off as “teaching the child a thing or two.”

Ross knows “a thing or two” about making photographs, and his perspective is founded not on reams of abstract theory but on making and analyzing photographs.

All of these points, quite a few of which seem irrelevant or even misleading, don’t change the fact the matter: You can produce very sharp photographs, including very large prints, using apertures considerably smaller than the so-called diffraction-limited aperture.

Yes, diffraction blur increases as you stop down. No, the take-away from that is most certainly NOT that you should always shoot at the diffraction-limited aperture. In fact, for many intentional effects in photographs intelligent and experienced photographers understand that sometimes things like depth of field trump supposed perfect test-bench sharpness. In fact, to a viewer, sometimes a photograph that uses a mathematically less-sharp aperture creates a subjective effect of greater sharpness, for example by increasing the sharpness of more important objects in the frame.

There is no one correct answer to the question: what is the best aperture? In some cases, it might well be the diffraction limited aperture. In some cases it might be. a larger aperture, even with a lens that increasingly vignettes and loses corner sharpness. In other cases it maybe be a smaller aperture that decreases the maximum sharpness at the sharpest point in the frame while increasing the sharpness of other important elements of the photograph.

While you are pondering, ask yourself why Ross may have deleted his useful post after your unfortunate reply? Is it your intent to silence other posters, in particularly talented and experienced photographers like Ross?

Perhaps take a step or two back from the test bench, articles about optics, and MTF charts and consider how this all applies to making photographs…

philip_pj wrote:
A few notes, Ross, and of course thanks for doing this.

. there is no tougher subject matter than busy natural scenes, by their nature books are all about broad edges; it is simply unrepresentative of typical use cases, if only because there is little to no depth. They are easy to find, and lazy reviewers like them. But they tell you little.

. few use a fast 135mm for any form of landscapes, which is the prime intended usage of Sony's R cameras;

. no one shoots regular natural subject matter that matters to an R Sony at this focal distance with
...Show more →



Edited on Jul 15, 2026 at 11:16 PM · View previous versions



Jul 15, 2026 at 10:54 PM
gdanmitchell
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p.81 #19 · Sony A7RVI


DWOfPaul wrote:
Taking a look at MTF charts gives a good idea of how much diffraction will impact sharpness..


Taking a look at photographs made at varying apertures, preferably in the form of real world outputs such as prints, will give you a much better idea. :-)



Jul 15, 2026 at 10:56 PM
duncangr
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p.81 #20 · Sony A7RVI


bcaslis wrote:
Thanks but do you have one? Here is the link for the A7R VI and it lists a histogram + level: https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2620/v1/en/contents/251h_disp_set_still.html?search=display

The one you listed for the A1 II does not have this, which is why I am asking.



It doesn't seem like you can. There is one view on the monitor that allows this.

You might consider using Zebras rather than the histogram if you aren't already.



Jul 15, 2026 at 11:58 PM
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