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Archive 2024 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light

  
 
ilkka_nissila
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p.15 #1 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


Photodiodes without filters are the most sensitive to red and infrared wavelengths, leading to the highest SNR. I don't know what the CFA does over the phase-detection photosites, are those patches clear? For sure IR light is filtered out, as otherwise the speedlight focus assist light would work with mirrorless.

The pizza has the advantage that it contains detail over a large area of the sensor, and so the camera will see many (dozens of) phase-detection sensors that give a clear target for focusing within the area of the image corresponding to the pizza. The eyes are of approximately the same order of magnitude in dimensions as the gaps between PDAF sensors, and so as the camera is moved ever so slightly, the eye can be "between PDAF sensors" or right on a sensor, or partially overlapping. When the PDAF sensor happens to coincide perfectly over the eye, one can expect a good result, otherwise the camera will go to other PDAF sensors that do see focusable detail. Small changes in alignment of the pizza vs. PDAF sensors make no difference because the the pizza covers such a large area so there is always something that are satisfactory targets for the PDAF system with the sensor positions as they are, and wiggling the camera a bit won't make the pizza a worse target (but it can make the eyes better or worse depending on alignment).

As for why the camera (and software such as NX Studio) indicates the head or eye as the target, it likely tells us that that is what the subject-identification system found as the subject, but since the PDAF sensors couldn't focus on it, the camera used other PDAF sensors that could. This is my interpretation of what is happening, however, the timing of the indicator and the actual focusing operation can be different, and likely the camera "stamps in" the very latest subject-detection focus point position just before the frame is taken, and the actual focus can be different.

I suppose what Nikon could do is have two indicators, one for the focus point (say, red) that gives the position that was used to focus, and another (white box) which indicates the subject found by the subject-detection process that the camera would have ideally focused on, if it had found sufficiently contrasty (vertical line) detail in that area.

Anyway, I think we can all agree the system isn't perfect and it has plenty of room for improvement. But what Nikon cannot do, without changing the hardware, is fill in the gaps between PDAF sensors embedded within the image sensor. Those are part of the hardware of the camera and not amenable by firmware updates. The balance of CDAF and PDAF use in low light could be something they could allow the user to adjust using a custom function setting, if the user wants to get really technical. Or it could be as simple as "CDAF priority in low light ON/OFF" which would enable those "in-between" areas between PDAF sensors to be used for focusing and increase accuracy, but with reduced AF performance in action photography.



May 02, 2024 at 12:38 PM
SCoombs
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p.15 #2 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


ilkka_nissila wrote:
Photodiodes without filters are the most sensitive to red and infrared wavelengths, leading to the highest SNR. I don't know what the CFA does over the phase-detection photosites, are those patches clear? For sure IR light is filtered out, as otherwise the speedlight focus assist light would work with mirrorless.

The pizza has the advantage that it contains detail over a large area of the sensor, and so the camera will see many (dozens of) phase-detection sensors that give a clear target for focusing within the area of the image corresponding to the pizza. The eyes are of approximately the
...Show more

Isn't starlight mode supposed to force CDAF?



May 02, 2024 at 12:42 PM
Ai_Print
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p.15 #3 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


I am flying back from my out of town job now but after a reset and re-load of menu settings, focus seems to be sticking much better, even down to 1/250th at 1.8, ISO 6400.


May 02, 2024 at 12:43 PM
SCoombs
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p.15 #4 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


Ai_Print wrote:
I am flying back from my out of town job now but after a reset and re-load of menu settings, focus seems to be sticking much better, even down to 1/250th at 1.8, ISO 6400.


I did find it worked better after a reset. The Google drive with samples I posted were after a reset. It was still less perfect (by far) than some report, but it definitely seemed better.

I can best describe it by ssaying that before the reset I was getting that 30% success rate, whereas after I was probably seeing 75% close enough I may not notice they're off without looking more closely, even though they're still definitely not what you'd call tack sharp. The other 25% are still focusing on the other eye or some such thing.



May 02, 2024 at 12:50 PM
ronno
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p.15 #5 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


snapsy - always adding high value content to this site - thank you sir!

re: "This is good, though I think the real issue is not when that far eye won't focus but when it shows focus on the front eye while the actual focus is on the far one. I don't think most people would normally want to focus on the far eye."

Indeed if they can fix that in firmware, there would be a lot less confusion about this camera's AF.
Please send these to the firmware development team at Nikon .

I have some findings concerning video AF which I am forwarding to Nikon as well (not going to show here due to the attack dogs.)

Good work.



May 02, 2024 at 01:15 PM
armd
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p.15 #6 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


snapsy wrote:
Here's a new video which demonstrates crux of issue IMO.

The previous videos were shot at a light level of 4EV, which was 1/160 f/5 ISO 25.6k. In this new video I start at 6.5EV, which is 1/160 f/5 ISO 4500. I then switch to 10EV, which is 1/160 f/5 ISO 400, and then keep switching back and forth between 6.5EV and 10EV. Here are the observations:

  1. At 6.5EV the eye AF on the right eye performs noticeably better than the previous videos at 4EV, although the camera still gets into the situation at close distances where it allows the right eye
  2. At 10EV there is a noticeable change in camera behavior - it no longer lets me easily select the right eye esp at oblique angles and close distances, the exact scenario where the 6.5EV allows but yields OOF images. At 10EV I have to fight the camera to switch to the right eye and most of the time it wont even give me the option. However whenever the camera does let me select the right eye it yields a 100% in-focus rate. I switch back and forth between 6.5EV and 10EV several times and this behavior holds true every time
  3. Conclusion: IMO the "issue" is the camera allowing the right eye to be selected at lower EVs where the focus system is apparently unable to deliver. At higher EVs the camera corrects this behavior and only allows the right eye to be selected when the camera can produce a 100% in-focus result.

Few timestamps to help watching the video:

  1. 0:00 Video starts at 6.5EV, ie 1/160 f/5 ISO 4500
  2. 0:28 Starts misfocusing on right eye
  3. 1:06 Switch to 10EV. Camera wont let me focus on right eye esp at oblique angles. I slowly move the angle of the camera to see when right eye allowed - it's much shallower than at 6.5EV
  4. 2:13 Switch back to 6.5EV
  5. 2:23 Misfocusing on right eye again
  6. 2:36 Switch back to 10EV. Fighting the camera to get right eye select, wont let me
  7. 3:05 Switch back to 6.5EV
  8. 3:10 Misfocusing right eye
  9. ..more switches between 6.5EV and 10EV...

...Show more

Snapsy, would you be willing to run the images where the camera indicated focus on the right eye when in fact the camera focused on the left eye through exiftool to determine the actual focus point? My reasoning is to confirm whether there might be a difference in what is displayed as the af point and what might be recorded in the exif? Thanks.


May 02, 2024 at 04:09 PM
snapsy
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p.15 #7 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


armd wrote:
Snapsy, would you be willing to run the images where the camera indicated focus on the right eye when in fact the camera focused on the left eye through exiftool to determine the actual focus point? My reasoning is to confirm whether there might be a difference in what is displayed as the af point and what might be recorded in the exif? Thanks.


exiftool is the first method I used to verify the focus point going back to the first videos I shot. I later enabled the playback option to make it obvious to viewers as well. They match. The camera is likely using the same data from the exif for the playback option.



May 02, 2024 at 04:28 PM
CanadaMark
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p.15 #8 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


coralnut wrote:
This thread has been amusing. It amazes me that the fanbois fervidly deny that any firmware bugs may exist, and instead insist that the effected photographer doesn't know how to use a camera -- yet they all rejoice when new firmware is released.

The truth that some seem unwilling to admit is that the issuance of firmware updates is a tacit admission by Nikon that the camera was released before the firmware's feature coding and debugging was fully completed. If the features were fully encoded and no bugs existed, then no follow-up firmware releases would ever be necessary.


I don't think anyone here has said that FW bugs don't exist. Can you point to someone explicitly stating that? I might have just missed it though. When Nikon makes improvements to existing features or adds new features via FW, of course people are happy - that is the usual response.

The flow of logic here as well as the overwhelming sentiment in this thread from people with lots of experience with the Z8 has been very straightforward.

- Most people do not have any issues (expected baseline performance).
- Separate from the eye AF issue the OP seems to be having, the OP has said the AF fails under extremely basic shooting scenarios and with multiple different lenses (huge red flag)
- It's very possible the OP's issue(s) are real and no fault of his own
- It is inarguable that if an issue exists with his Z8, it should not be happening based on the fact that others do not have the same issue and it's performing outside the norm. The OP paid the same for that Z8 as everyone else who is not having issues and obviously deserves a properly functioning camera.

Therefore, since his camera is behaving outside the norm or otherwise in a suboptimal way, Nikon should be involved. Whether that results in a repair, replacement, or future FW update it's all positive and a step in the right direction. If the camera was sent to Nikon when he was first complaining about having issues, he would have had it repaired or replaced by now. OP doesn't want to involve Nikon, so instead this thread gains a few pages every day while nothing gets resolved.



May 02, 2024 at 06:13 PM
MRomine
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p.15 #9 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


In the video of the mannequin head, what lens was that shot with? Is it possible that you are shooting at the edge of minimum focus distance and possibly causing the focus system to grab the left eye instead of the right since it is further away? Probably not but asking to make sure that the minimum focus distance has not been breeched in the test. .


May 02, 2024 at 06:59 PM
snapsy
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p.15 #10 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


MRomine wrote:
In the video of the mannequin head, what lens was that shot with? Is it possible that you are shooting at the edge of minimum focus distance and possibly causing the focus system to grab the left eye instead of the right since it is further away? Probably not but asking to make sure that the minimum focus distance has not been breeched in the test. .


Nikon Z 24-120 f/4 S @ 70mm. I'm focusing on the eye further away (model's right eye) yet the camera is focusing on the nearer left eye, which would argue against MFD being the issue.



May 02, 2024 at 07:14 PM
armd
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p.15 #11 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


snapsy wrote:
exiftool is the first method I used to verify the focus point going back to the first videos I shot. I later enabled the playback option to make it obvious to viewers as well. They match. The camera is likely using the same data from the exif for the playback option.


So, either the AF point is correct as recorded and the camera is having difficulty achieving focus, or the camera is using an alternative focus point (the other eye) and not recording it in the exif. Either situation is troubling.



May 02, 2024 at 07:16 PM
SCoombs
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p.15 #12 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


CanadaMark wrote:
I don't think anyone here has said that FW bugs don't exist. Can you point to someone explicitly stating that? I might have just missed it though. When Nikon makes improvements to existing features or adds new features via FW, of course people are happy - that is the usual response.

The flow of logic here as well as the overwhelming sentiment in this thread from people with lots of experience with the Z8 has been very straightforward.

- Most people do not have any issues (expected baseline performance).
- Separate from the eye AF issue the OP seems to be having, the
...Show more

I do appreciate the much more irenic and constructive attitude you've taken as compared to some others. We would see much more resolved much more often with more people approaching things with an attitude like yours.

However, I do think there's a significant flaw in your reasoning in that you continue to claim that my issues are unique when there is ample evidence of many other people having them. For some reason you categorize these problems as unique and not common, similarly to the way you categorize mine, even as the numbers continue to grow. Taken individually this might make sense, but collectively I'm not sure how one regards these as unique rather than more widespread problems.

The other logical problem that really stands out to me is how you look at my experiences with the 200-500 and 180-600 as failures under extremely basic shooting scenarios and so as evidence of a problem with the camera, how can you reconcile that with the fact that the 500pf does not have these problems on the same camera body? If it were a problem with the camera AF then the 500pf should be susceptible as well, but it is not. Similarly, the Sigma Sports tele I rented and used on my Z8 also kept up with BiF much better than the 200-500 on the same camera bodies, so again, it's hard for me to see how it makes any sense to say the camera body is at fault.



May 02, 2024 at 08:01 PM
SCoombs
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p.15 #13 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


I have finally managed to record my own videos. Mine are not as well "organized" as Snapsy's, largely because my models are, as you will see, a bit less cooperative. On the plus side, this means they better model a more realistic shooting scenario.

I tested this at 3 apertures: f2/8 and f4 on my 70-200S, and 1.8 on my 85 1.8S

Due to the fading of exterior light, EV varies in these tests from a bit over 4 to around 3, if I've done the calculations correctly. Anyone curious to double check that for themselves can use the values as recorded in the video to check.

Note that sometimes in these videos I zoom in to show the focus, but often I am just doing it to check the focus, so don't take my zooming on any given shot as a claim of anything unless you actually see the focus being wrong. Usually when it is I will zoom out to show the focus point and then back in again.

My observations are as follows:

- Most notably to me, the SR box was turning yellow or white to indicate loss of focus, allowing me to avoid pressing the shutter. This did not happen in any of my testing before I updated to firmware 2.01 and also did a full rest on the camera.Previously it just stayed green the entire time.

- The f1.8 lens, at least in this limited test, absolutely performed the best. I did not record a single miss using that lens in spite of the fact that it was the last one I did and the lighting was the lowest.

- The f4 aperture performed the worst, which is unsurprising.

- The 2.8 aperture had a few misses and it had the problem I am trying to demonstrate in that it focused on the back eye when the SR box was on the front one. It seemed like it stayed green when actually out of focus more often than with f4.
All of this testing was without flash. I did one test with flash at 2.8 and nothing extraordinary happened other than one more miss where the camera said it had the front eye and actually focused on the rear eye.

- This was also tested with a relatively small custom area box. Previously, I had used the full area because it had proven more reliable in the past. I only did one round with the full area AF tonight, at 2.8, and it seemed to perform worse than the smaller box. This makes sense - it is just contrary to behavior I had previously observed.

- Also not super surprising, but it kept focus on my lighter eyed children better than my darker eyed ones. Worth noting here is that the worst performance was not on my darkest, brown eyed child but on one with lighter blue eyes just slightly darker than my lightest eyed child, on whom it performed the best.


This leaves me with some very preliminary initial conclusions:

1. Firmware 2.01 or the system reset or both may have improved performance. It's still not perfect, but it initially appears noticeably better.

2. At 1.8 it seemed to perform almost flawlessly. It's noteworthy that many people reporting no problems also report shooting at 1.2 or 1.8.

3. IF - and that is a big if - the camera will consistently display the yellow or white box instead of green when something is not in focus, I'd consider the issue resolved. It seemed to mostly do this at f/4. At f/2.8 it was, perhaps we could say, overconfident at times.

4. I want to experiment further with the smaller wide area box vs. the full area. I started with this camera never using the full area box and only started using it grudgingly after finding it was giving me more in focus results than the smaller areas. I did this past November shoot literally thousands of photos to test this and the result of full-area being better was extremely consistent, but it may be that for whatever reason this was not normal and it is now working the way most people find it to - with smaller boxes being better.

5. I am cautiously optimistic here, but at the same time there is very clearly an issue as I would say that in at least 10%+ of my test shots the SR was targeting the front eye but focus was on the rear eye. I have a strong example of this shared below.

Here is the test at f4.



At around 0:10 I zoom in to show a focus going to the wrong eye (the REAR one instead of the front one). In fairness to the camera, the SR box had turned white just as I pressed the shutter here so the camera was trying to tell me it was not focused. However, I think that there was also a shot I show at this time when it was still green but the focus was on the wrong eye, and either way it's still odd that even though it was not on the correct eye it WAS focused on the other eye.

Around 0:30 the same thing; focus on the rear instead of the displayed front eye, but SR box had turned white.

Here's the f1.8 video.

Nothing to comment on here, really. It briefly turned white a few times but basically it did what it was supposed to. I'm not sure if it comes through in the video or not, but the SR box also "felt" a lot smoother and stickier.

Here is one f2.8 video. https://studio.youtube.com/video/gXosGNW7fLk/edit

Most notable I think is the shot taken about 2/3 of the way through that clearly shows the phenomenon of the SR being on the front eye but the actual focus on the rear. Here is that photo:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53695380485_b4564387cc_b.jpg

Here is an extended video at 2.8. I'm not sure if there was anything particular about this I was trying to point out. I actually did a whole bunch of recordings that I didn't upload but most of them got interrupted by a kid doing something so I restarted. This one is just one that ran for a bit without any distractions for the most part. The most notable thing here is that it mostly behaves BUT it does lose focus a lot - it just happens to TELL me about it so I can avoid taking missed focus shots.



Here's one more at 2.8 where we see the "reports focus on the front, actually focused on the rear" thing going on. In this case there is a very brief turn to white or yellow, but otherwise the box is green the entire time. I've watched this back in slow motion but I can't tell if the missed focus shot I share below was at the moment the box showed a loss of focus or not:



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53695286959_3807843c52_b.jpg



May 02, 2024 at 09:21 PM
Gordon Lyons
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p.15 #14 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


I notice you have AF Fine Tune on with the 70-200mm. If the value entered is let say +20 (the extreme limit) it could back focus rendering accurate focus on the rear eye. I tried this on my Z series with a +20 value in wide area focus with eye detect enabled and it showed the focus was locked on the nearest eye. When I reviewed the image the focus was on the rear eye.

Just thought it may be worth checking into. Wish you the best in finding a solution to your situation.



May 02, 2024 at 11:41 PM
SCoombs
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p.15 #15 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


Gordon Lyons wrote:
I notice you have AF Fine Tune on with the 70-200mm. If the value entered is let say +20 (the extreme limit) it could back focus rendering accurate focus on the rear eye. I tried this on my Z series with a +20 value in wide area focus with eye detect enabled and it showed the focus was locked on the nearest eye. When I reviewed the image the focus was on the rear eye.

Just thought it may be worth checking into. Wish you the best in finding a solution to your situation.


The AF Fine tune is on because of another lens, but there is no fine tuning programmed for the 70-200 (I just double checked to make sure it didn't somehow get programmed by mistake). In other words, all of my lenses are set to 0 except for one which works best with a +1 and so I leave the AF fine tune on so that when that lens is attached it will work.



May 03, 2024 at 12:22 AM
snapsy
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p.15 #16 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


SCoombs wrote:
I have finally managed to record my own videos. Mine are not as well "organized" as Snapsy's, largely because my models are, as you will see, a bit less cooperative. On the plus side, this means they better model a more realistic shooting scenario.

I tested this at 3 apertures: f2/8 and f4 on my 70-200S, and 1.8 on my 85 1.8S

Due to the fading of exterior light, EV varies in these tests from a bit over 4 to around 3, if I've done the calculations correctly. Anyone curious to double check that for themselves can use the values as recorded
...Show more

Great job on the videos. I posted this on your DPR thread but posting here as well:

On several of the videos I see the MF override distance scale appear on the screen. In the f/4 video it appears just before the photo is taken. This scale appears whenever the focus ring is being manipulated while AF-ON is being pressed. Are you inadvertently hitting your lens focus ring when handling the lens? Here's your f/4 video, slowed down by 10x to show this:



I edited to show the two photos taken. As you indicated, the focus indicator turns white just before the exposure. In the first the MF ring is bumped - also the white left rangefinder arrow is active, showing the lens is now OOF relative to the AF point due to the MF manipulation. In the second photo the subject is moving quickly just before the exposure and the indicator is white the entire time.

I hope it's ok to repost your video like this - it's unlisted so it'll only show up here. If this is an issue let me know and I can take it down.



May 03, 2024 at 01:09 AM
SCoombs
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p.15 #17 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


snapsy wrote:
Great job on the videos. I posted this on your DPR thread but posting here as well:

On several of the videos I see the MF override distance scale appear on the screen. In the f/4 video it appears just before the photo is taken. This scale appears whenever the focus ring is being manipulated while AF-ON is being pressed. Are you inadvertently hitting your lens focus ring when handling the lens? Here's your f/4 video, slowed down by 10x to show this:



I edited to show the two photos taken. As you indicated, the focus indicator turns white just before the
...Show more
Thanks for pointing this out. It's somewhat surprising to me, but definitely something for me to pay attention to.

I don't think it likely has much to do with the issues we're discussing. Certainly it could cause missed focus in individual cases, so I wouldn't by any means dismiss the possibility that a few shots here and there might be off because of something like this. However I think we can see that most of the times that the weird focus stuff occurs in these videos the MF ring isn't being operated. 

By the way, I think it is possible that in this case I was actually trying to adjust the zoom. The 70-200 is new to me, replacing the 70-180, and very frequently when I go to zoom I first briefly move the focus ring because I am expecting from my use of other lenses for the zoom ring to be where the focus ring is. It's also possible I'm accidentally hitting it. As I said, it's something to pay attention to in the future. Either way, I do think it's mostly particular to this lens that I am hitting that a bit. I can see it a few times throughout the videos with the 70-200. I don't think it's likely to be the case that I'm usually hitting that with other lenses even if only because of the location of the manual focus ring.





May 03, 2024 at 01:37 AM
jimmy462
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p.15 #18 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


Gordon Lyons wrote:
I notice you have AF Fine Tune on with the 70-200mm. If the value entered is let say +20 (the extreme limit) it could back focus rendering accurate focus on the rear eye. I tried this on my Z series with a +20 value in wide area focus with eye detect enabled and it showed the focus was locked on the nearest eye. When I reviewed the image the focus was on the rear eye.

Just thought it may be worth checking into. Wish you the best in finding a solution to your situation.


Hi Gordon,

Thanks for the heads-up on the fact that the Z8 has AF fine-tuning.

For those of us not familiar with Nikon's AF system and who are trying to follow along, the User Manual page for the Z8 "AF Fine-Tuning Options"...

AF Fine-Tuning Options
https://onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com/z8/en/sum_af_fine-tuning_options_307.html

As you were, folks.
Jimmy G







Nikon Z8 AF Fine-Tuning page




May 03, 2024 at 05:07 AM
jlafferty
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p.15 #19 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


Do you have AF-C priority set to Focus or Release? TBH it looks to me not like the “rear eye” is in focus, but your AF is back focused considerably, which would just coincide with the “rear eye” often. In the f4 video it looks like the hair at the back of the head is in focus, and not the face at all. It also, TBH, looks nothing like camera behavior I see regularly. I’m not seeing the AF engage and hunt, which I’d expect. The AF priority question is related.


May 03, 2024 at 05:32 AM
jimmy462
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p.15 #20 · Z8 extremely unreliable/inconsistent AF in mildly low light


snapsy wrote:
>snip<

On several of the videos I see the MF override distance scale appear on the screen. In the f/4 video it appears just before the photo is taken. This scale appears whenever the focus ring is being manipulated while AF-ON is being pressed. Are you inadvertently hitting your lens focus ring when handling the lens? Here's your f/4 video, slowed down by 10x to show this:

>snip<


Nice catch, snapsy. For those unfamiliar as to what they should be looking for in the Z8's display...

Updated Distance Display for Manual Focus
https://onlinemanual.nikonimglib.com/z8/en/adding_manual_shooting_focus_distance_405.html

I'm also noticing that the "Auto ISO" indicator also shows up sporadically on the display, does anyone know if using Auto ISO is taking away processor-time from the camera's computational-cycles for the AF system when engaged? I'm thinking that setting ISO to a fixed value would free up the camera's processors, even if ever-so-slightly? Has this been tested?



May 03, 2024 at 06:26 AM
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