Desmolicious wrote:
I have a feeling the complaints about the knock off would be the same for the actual ES-2!
Yeah I was curious about that too. It's mainly that the flange at the end has a keeper screw that doesn't really work so your film strip end sort of spins around. Gaffer's tape to the rescue!
The other complaint is the film carrier itself. Loading it is finicky, unlike my Epson film carries which is a cinch, and the corners are rounded. So I often crop off like 3-5% of my final images to square them off. I may file these down at some point.
ottokbre wrote:
Yeah I was curious about that too. It's mainly that the flange at the end has a keeper screw that doesn't really work so your film strip end sort of spins around. Gaffer's tape to the rescue!
The other complaint is the film carrier itself. Loading it is finicky, unlike my Epson film carries which is a cinch, and the corners are rounded. So I often crop off like 3-5% of my final images to square them off. I may file these down at some point.
Ok, the Jen-you-wine ES-2 does not spin round. That would drive me nuts. I'd pay extra for that not to happen. The ES-2 also curves the corners - all my picks that show the full frame uncropped show that.
OffTrail wrote:
Certainly. But I think it's still worth sharing the success of being delivered neutral JPEG's with a modest amount of prep work by the lab. If someone can get TIFFs, or better yet scan their own, then of course that's ideal. Luckily, there's no shortage of great ways to scan 35mm.
We need a film forum so I can ask everyone how they're doing their at-home 120 scans, though. I am yet to get results with my V600 that print as well as my lab's scans.
I admit, perhaps I am to blame as well as I did not provide the lab with feedback. But my first two rolls were so terribly over sharpened that I lost all interest in dealing with lab scans, so I got my own scanner.
My easy35 just shipped - looking forward to trying it out...once I have a set of negatives to scan. Lab development isn't cheap where I am - $15-20 per roll minimum. Sometimes up to $25 for B&W. I plan to test out the Lab Box. Was thinking of the CineStill monobath but maybe that XTOL is the way to go given the shelf life (I don't think I'll shoot that many rolls per month. Maybe 1-2.)
4. Close the film back, attach the base plate, THEN wind on for the first time.
5. Gently tension the rewind crank so you can watch it rotate as you advance the film to make sure everything is kosher....Show more →
MP arrived (beautiful) and used a roll of film to test for scratching (no scratching) but also usage and metering. This guide was great for loading it. Shot almost a roll tonight playing around so I am curious to see how (or even if ) they turn out.
One question came up - indoors in dim light, any tips with using the SF-24D?
TheEyesHaveIt wrote:
My easy35 just shipped - looking forward to trying it out...once I have a set of negatives to scan. Lab development isn't cheap where I am - $15-20 per roll minimum. Sometimes up to $25 for B&W. I plan to test out the Lab Box. Was thinking of the CineStill monobath but maybe that XTOL is the way to go given the shelf life (I don't think I'll shoot that many rolls per month. Maybe 1-2.)
The company Kodak contracted with to make darkroom chemical, Sino Promise, is in bankruptcy and the future of both D76 andXTOL is uncertain. Adox has their version of both, XT-3 for XTOL and their own brand of D76. The problem with Adox is the limited availability. Legacy Pro makes a version of HC-110 that works well and is economical. Lately, I’ve been using a D76 clone from the Film Photography Project, mostly because I can get it packaged to make one liter of stock instead of a gallon.
lifeandmylens wrote:
MP arrived (beautiful) and used a roll of film to test for scratching (no scratching) but also usage and metering. This guide was great for loading it. Shot almost a roll tonight playing around so I am curious to see how (or even if ) they turn out.
One question came up - indoors in dim light, any tips with using the SF-24D?
The little SF-24d has buttons on the back to adjust EV and is a nice flash for the M camera. The screen on the back shows the settings and there is a confirmation light to verify enough light has reached the subject. It works in TTL mode with the M6 TTL, M7 but not the MP or the new M6. A slip on diffuser is handy to have. There was a company based in the Netherlands called Leica Goodies that made a diffuser that was held in place with some Velcro and elastic straps but I think they’re out of business.
As Huss would say, this is why we need a film forum.
madNbad wrote:
The little SF-24d has buttons on the back to adjust EV and is a nice flash for the M camera. The screen on the back shows the settings and there is a confirmation light to verify enough light has reached the subject. It works in TTL mode with the M6 TTL, M7 but not the MP or the new M6. A slip on diffuser is handy to have. There was a company based in the Netherlands called Leica Goodies that made a diffuser that was held in place with some Velcro and elastic straps but I think they’re out of business.
As Huss would say, this is why we need a film forum....Show more →
I actually have that Leica Goodies diffuser in a bag someplace but never used it!
With the SF24D, just set it to Auto, input your ISO to match your film used, select an aperture and you will see the applicable range/distance.
@lifeandmylens Make sure your MP is set to the sync speed 1/50 or lower. Make sure the aperture setting on the lens matches the flash. It's really a very nice and easy flash to use.
TheEyesHaveIt wrote:
My easy35 just shipped - looking forward to trying it out...once I have a set of negatives to scan. Lab development isn't cheap where I am - $15-20 per roll minimum. Sometimes up to $25 for B&W. I plan to test out the Lab Box. Was thinking of the CineStill monobath but maybe that XTOL is the way to go given the shelf life (I don't think I'll shoot that many rolls per month. Maybe 1-2.)
Mine shipped as well. Should be here in a few days!
The Leica M-P is like a Leica M10. So that’s the latest. The new M6 variant is the same with another body.
Main differences are whether you want one with a meter or without. M3-2-4 are without meters. Also the M6 and M4-P are zinc and not brass.
The M5 went down in history as the ugliest Leica M ever made. I would skip this one.
Personally if I had a chance I would buy a newly CLA’d Leica M2 from Kanto repainted glossy black or Olive. Because the M2 will last for many lifetimes whereas the metered ones will suffer the fate of the M6 eventually. Also because meters are for pussies.
Edit: I see you got the M-P. correct choice for their latest more recent film camera.
The undeniable truth is the Leica M3&M2 are the best Leica M cameras ever made and that will ever be made.
TheEyesHaveIt wrote:
My easy35 just shipped - looking forward to trying it out...once I have a set of negatives to scan. Lab development isn't cheap where I am - $15-20 per roll minimum. Sometimes up to $25 for B&W. I plan to test out the Lab Box. Was thinking of the CineStill monobath but maybe that XTOL is the way to go given the shelf life (I don't think I'll shoot that many rolls per month. Maybe 1-2.)
BTW - I am developing with the Lab Box as well. So far, two rolls of B&W with Caffenol, one 35mm and one 120. Negatives look great but I need to get the 120 scanned. I like the Lab Box and it works really well!
mahimihi wrote:
The undeniable truth is the Leica M3&M2 are the best Leica M cameras ever made and that will ever be made.
Depends on the user's need. IMO the part which is "best" is the M3 viewfinder with its unique 0.91x magnification which has never been made by Leica later. Both the M3 and the M2 have no rangefinder patch flare like in later M models - another big advantage. I own the M3, and it is my preferred film camera to use with 50 mm and 90 mm lenses for sure. But since I often use wide angle lenses, I am using my M6 camera more often due to its frame lines wider than 50 mm plus including the one for 75 mm. Personally I prefer to have metering in the camera - but others might differ here in their opinion.
OffTrail wrote:
We need a film forum so I can ask everyone how they're doing their at-home 120 scans, though. I am yet to get results with my V600 that print as well as my lab's scans.
Not gonna happen here. People tried to get a Leica forum started in the past, too. There is simply not enough leverage here to get a forum started for either. Nice Alt community though - but for better information of how-to-do-things-with film plus scanning, you are better off in other dedicated film-based forums online where this information is already widely discussed and explained.
Just mean in terms of build. Those cameras are the finest built Leicas even today. One should get to the point you don’t really need a meter. The metering apps for phones are actually quite accurate in case you’re not sure.
I shoot 35mm which is why my preference would be an M2, but I can get a 35 with goggles and have a minty M3. finest camera Leica ever built. Even the detail on the top around the windows and so on. The M3 is the only Leica that has that level of detail.
Just mean in terms of build. Those cameras are the finest built Leicas even today. One should get to the point you don’t really need a meter. The metering apps for phones are actually quite accurate in case you’re not sure.
I shoot 35mm which is why my preference would be an M2, but I can get a 35 with goggles and have a minty M3. finest camera Leica ever built. Even the detail on the top around the windows and so on. The M3 is the only Leica that has that level of detail.
I agree with the built - even I heard from one well known repair technician for Leica cameras in the US, that shutters seem to fail now very often in M3 models which might not be a surprise regarding their age. Regarding external metering with cell phone, yes was there and done this - and disliked it. I don't like fumbling around with my cell phone to meter and holding my camera in parallel - better option IMO is using a small external meter like the Gossen Digisix 2. And the sunny 16 rule is not reliable either from my experience - it applies in very sunny light conditions, but I found a "sunny 11" rule much more applicable - also depends on the location latitude. Forget this rule in high contrast scenarios - light meter is the much better choice here.
Every shutter will eventually fail. The good thing about the M3 is that is fully mechanical and it can be repaired indefinitely. The ones with the meter, such as the M6 where the electronics can no longer be replaced, when the electronics fail your SOL and the camera won’t have a meter anyway.
Get ISO400 film for the day and you’re good to go. Outside is f8 and 1/250. Inside open it to f2.8. You can do this all day.
mahimihi wrote:
Every shutter will eventually fail.
I was going to add a snarky comment that the shutter on my pinhole camera is unlikely to fail, but then I realized that even _that_ shutter will fail in ~50 years.
Desmolicious wrote:
I actually have that Leica Goodies diffuser in a bag someplace but never used it!
With the SF24D, just set it to Auto, input your ISO to match your film used, select an aperture and you will see the applicable range/distance.
@lifeandmylens@ Make sure your MP is set to the sync speed 1/50 or lower. Make sure the aperture setting on the lens matches the flash. It's really a very nice and easy flash to use.
Thank you! I had the settings right on the flash, but not the shutter speed. I had it on 1/125. I should have noticed the flash symbol on the dial. Will try again later with 1/50.
Every shutter will eventually fail. The good thing about the M3 is that is fully mechanical and it can be repaired indefinitely. The ones with the meter, such as the M6 where the electronics can no longer be replaced, when the electronics fail your SOL and the camera won’t have a meter anyway.
Get ISO400 film for the day and you’re good to go. Outside is f8 and 1/250. Inside open it to f2.8. You can do this all day.
Agree fully with the first paragraph - second one works for you which is great. For my photography this is much too textbook-like. Doesn't work for me in practical situations.
) they turn out.