"I wonder how the megadap adapter and the Zeiss Loxia lenses work. Anyone have this setup and a Z camera ? Or maybe those little Sigma contemporary lenses."
I have ordered that adapter, expected ~ 16th this month. I'll post on it then photo with Loxia etc.
A few observations re: ISO Sensitivity Settings.
In Photo Mode ..
In Aperature Priority Mode ...
Any shutter "dial" speed setting is ignored ...
#1.
With in camera menu item "ISO Sensitivity Settings" set to OFF ...
With ISO dial set to C ...
With internal camera ISO set to 100 ...
Camera will take a photo at 100 ISO and adjust shutter speed to compensate as needed to maintain the ISO 100 setting.
#2.
With in camera menu item "ISO Sensitivity Settings" set to OFF ...
With ISO dial NOT set to C ...
With ISO dial set to 1600 ...
Internal camera ISO will display the chosen DIAL ISO setting of 1600 but it is greyed out ...
Camera will take a photo at 1600 ISO and adjust shutter speed to compensate as needed to maintain the ISO 1600 setting.
#3.
With in camera menu item "ISO Sensitivity Settings" set to ON ...
With ISO dial set to C ...
With internal camera ISO set to 100 ...
If the internal ISO setting of 100 cannot be met. The camera will take a photo at an adjusted ISO and adjust shutter speed to compensate. "Auto ISO" on screen displays in pulse mode, not steady.
Where it was NOT possible to shoot at the selected internal ISO setting of 100. The photo in playback mode will display the "adjusted" ISO value in a red colour (not 100).
Where it WAS possible to shoot at the selected internal ISO setting. The photo in playback mode will display the NON "adjusted" ISO value in normal white colour.
#4.
With in camera menu item "ISO Sensitivity Settings" set to ON ...
With ISO dial NOT set to C ...
With ISO dial set to 1600 ...
Internal camera ISO will display the chosen DIAL ISO setting of 1600 but it is greyed out.
If the DIAL ISO setting of 1600 cannot be met. The camera will take a photo at an adjusted ISO and adjust shutter speed to compensate. "Auto ISO" on screen displays in pulse mode, not steady.
Where it was NOT possible to shoot at the selected DIAL ISO setting of 1600. The photo in playback mode will display the "adjusted" ISO value in a red colour (not 1600).
Where it WAS possible to shoot at the selected DIAL ISO setting of 1600. The photo in playback mode will display the NON "adjusted" ISO value in normal white colour
"I wonder how the megadap adapter and the Zeiss Loxia lenses work. Anyone have this setup and a Z camera ? Or maybe those little Sigma contemporary lenses."
I have ordered that adapter, expected ~ 16th this month. I'll post on it then photo with Loxia etc.
A few observations re: ISO Sensitivity Settings.
In Photo Mode ..
In Aperature Priority Mode ...
Any shutter "dial" speed setting is ignored ...
#1.
With in camera menu item "ISO Sensitivity Settings" set to OFF ...
With ISO dial set to C ...
With internal camera ISO set to 100 ...
Camera will take a photo at 100 ISO and adjust shutter speed to compensate as needed to maintain the ISO 100 setting.
#2.
With in camera menu item "ISO Sensitivity Settings" set to OFF ...
With ISO dial NOT set to C ...
With ISO dial set to 1600 ...
Internal camera ISO will display the chosen DIAL ISO setting of 1600 but it is greyed out ...
Camera will take a photo at 1600 ISO and adjust shutter speed to compensate as needed to maintain the ISO 1600 setting.
#3.
With in camera menu item "ISO Sensitivity Settings" set to ON ...
With ISO dial set to C ...
With internal camera ISO set to 100 ...
If the internal ISO setting of 100 cannot be met. The camera will take a photo at an adjusted ISO and adjust shutter speed to compensate. "Auto ISO" on screen displays in pulse mode, not steady.
Where it was NOT possible to shoot at the selected internal ISO setting of 100. The photo in playback mode will display the "adjusted" ISO value in a red colour (not 100).
Where it WAS possible to shoot at the selected internal ISO setting. The photo in playback mode will display the NON "adjusted" ISO value in normal white colour.
#4.
With in camera menu item "ISO Sensitivity Settings" set to ON ...
With ISO dial NOT set to C ...
With ISO dial set to 1600 ...
Internal camera ISO will display the chosen DIAL ISO setting of 1600 but it is greyed out.
If the DIAL ISO setting of 1600 cannot be met. The camera will take a photo at an adjusted ISO and adjust shutter speed to compensate. "Auto ISO" on screen displays in pulse mode, not steady.
Where it was NOT possible to shoot at the selected DIAL ISO setting of 1600. The photo in playback mode will display the "adjusted" ISO value in a red colour (not 1600).
Where it WAS possible to shoot at the selected DIAL ISO setting of 1600. The photo in playback mode will display the NON "adjusted" ISO value in normal white colour ...Show more →
Haven't tried it yet, don't own the Loxias currently , interested to see your results.
Regarding Zf focus confirmation for manual lens - like Voigtlander 40mm 1.2 Z.
I understand that when using CV40/1.2 Z with this camera, eye-focusing would work fine, then once eye is highlighted, then I could just use focus ring to get focus confirmation on that small eye-square?
Is that how it works?
phinix wrote:
Regarding Zf focus confirmation for manual lens - like Voigtlander 40mm 1.2 Z.
I understand that when using CV40/1.2 Z with this camera, eye-focusing would work fine, then once eye is highlighted, then I could just use focus ring to get focus confirmation on that small eye-square?
Is that how it works?
phinix wrote:
Regarding Zf focus confirmation for manual lens - like Voigtlander 40mm 1.2 Z.
I understand that when using CV40/1.2 Z with this camera, eye-focusing would work fine, then once eye is highlighted, then I could just use focus ring to get focus confirmation on that small eye-square?
Is that how it works?
Exactly. It's an awesome feature and makes manual focusing much faster. I've also found it to be accurate. Only downside is that it will only work with chipped lenses that communicate aperture data. I don't really understand the science behind that one. Why would the camera need to know the aperture to know if the selected area is in focus or not? I would love for this feature to migrate to the Z8/Z9 line and hope it isn't something that nikon keeps segmented in this camera. If you are using a non-cpu lens the box will still appear and if you then zoom in (I have this programed to function 1) then the zoom goes right to the eye or face of the subject. Only downside to this is that if you are using the full area, then it thinks everything is a face or if there are multiple faces, there is no way to toggle between them that I can figure out.
phinix wrote:
Awesome! Why we cannot have that in Sony cameras...
Time to sell my a7c and get that Zf
It's a powerful feature, and I hope we see more chipped lenses for the Z-mount to take advantage of it. And for more cameras to offer that feature.
As for switching, though, if you're in the a7C for its size then the Zf is probably going to be bulkier and heavier than you'd want. It's chunkier in person than it looks online.
Sadly, I sent my ZF back to B&H today. I didn't really want to, but it was the right thing for me to do.
As an mostly a wedding/event photographer, I usually use dual cameras and the controls are just a little too different from my Z9 when I need to do something quick. A Z6/Z7 body style and controls is just a better fit for me. I didn't love the flippy screen style compared to the other ones. For waist level shots, it's just so much easier on the other style since you don't have to pull it all the way out and then rotate it towards you.
One of the big reasons I bought it, I kinda thought it would be a great travel camera (and I'm sure it would be), but it's still kinda big with most lenses. No real advantage over a Z6/7 or even 8 in that regard. And it really needs a grip. I really wanted this camera to take the place of my Leica M240......but I just can't seem to let it go yet. Just something about it.
Lots to love on the ZF though. Beautiful camera and a very nice value in my opinion. The VR is awesome.
Nathan Padgett wrote:
Sadly, I sent my ZF back to B&H today. I didn't really want to, but it was the right thing for me to do.
As an mostly a wedding/event photographer, I usually use dual cameras and the controls are just a little too different from my Z9 when I need to do something quick. A Z6/Z7 body style and controls is just a better fit for me. I didn't love the flippy screen style compared to the other ones. For waist level shots, it's just so much easier on the other style since you don't have to pull it all the way out and then rotate it towards you.
One of the big reasons I bought it, I kinda thought it would be a great travel camera (and I'm sure it would be), but it's still kinda big with most lenses. No real advantage over a Z6/7 or even 8 in that regard. And it really needs a grip. I really wanted this camera to take the place of my Leica M240......but I just can't seem to let it go yet. Just something about it.
Lots to love on the ZF though. Beautiful camera and a very nice value in my opinion. The VR is awesome. ...Show more →
Echoes my thoughts almost exactly, minus the M240 because that was never in the budget for me
bluehawaii wrote:
When you handle the smallrig grip it is an injection moulded rubberised plastic with a moulded leatherette pattern. There is some small amount of give to the plastic.
The Nikon Z f-GR1 matches the camera perfectly and integrates with the camera body in a much more tactile and pleasing way in my opinion. Materials are a perfect match also.
I hope that this rather small/thin extra grip will give more secure feeling, but yes, I prefer a look and aesthetics of this original Nikon grip.
I will get my smallgrig tomorrow (the store forgot to send it), and I dont know how much I will use it. It will be nice for tripod use and extra protection for the camera, but I realy like the handling of the Zf as it is so far.
On my Zfc, I thinki the smallrig grip is a must have.
BPsmith511 wrote:
Echoes my thoughts almost exactly, minus the M240 because that was never in the budget for me
Hence the M240 dilemma. Both the ZF and M240 are worth about $2000. The Nikon is better in pretty much every way except it's not a Leica. The 240 is just my guilty pleasure and for my sadistic side when I want to humble myself as a photographer at this point.
1bwana1 wrote:
...
One again, why all the focus here on minimum ISO?
Exactly. My problem with auto settings is that camera sometimes picks too high ISO or to slow shutter speed.
For me personally, it would be beneficial if I could set up max ISO, or tell camera to pick lowest possible ISO, not to ramp it up occasionally. For example, my a7c does it for 1 on 10 photos - sets too ISO too high and makes whole photo so bright and burnt, if you know what I mean. I think its a matter of metering mode and that algorithm responsible for picking auto settings.
phinix wrote:
Exactly. My problem with auto settings is that camera sometimes picks too high ISO or to slow shutter speed.
For me personally, it would be beneficial if I could set up max ISO, or tell camera to pick lowest possible ISO, not to ramp it up occasionally. For example, my a7c does it for 1 on 10 photos - sets too ISO too high and makes whole photo so bright and burnt, if you know what I mean. I think its a matter of metering mode and that algorithm responsible for picking auto settings.
At least when combined with a set minimum shutter speed within the auto-ISO menu, the auto-ISO always wants the lowest ISO it can use.
There is an auto minimum shutter speed setting within the auto-ISO setting, and you can bias it between five general levels of speed. It's been a long time since I used it though, and I don't remember the sorts of decisions it made.
The way I use auto-ISO is to set a minimum shutter speed of 1/250s and a max ISO of whatever the camera's max ISO happens to be. With the camera in aperture priority, it always wants to use the lowest ISO it can so you're always at your minimum shutter speed. The only time your shutter speed climbs is when you've got so much light that you're at base ISO. It won't randomly choose to apply a faster shutter speed. On the other end, if you set an ISO ceiling and you run up against it, the camera will drop your shutter speed below your set minimum. Again, that's all in aperture priority mode. In manual mode, your shutter speed selection is always in control and ISO will climb or drop as far as it can, but the camera can't make any adjustments once you've reached either end of your ISO range so it's possible to over/underexpose.
