These settings have been verified to work with Firmware V1.03 - V 2.1 and is my setup as of 11/12/2022
The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will focus and track it.
The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.
I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
- 11/12/2022 I've experimented with Speed tracking sensitivity of 2. If there is contrast, this works yet if the contrast is low initial acquisition is near impossible. If you run into issues with low contrast focusing switch to 1. Some might want to set up a way to quickly switch. At this point I've seen enough issues to say 1 is the best choice. Also note that AF-C custom settings are just that and have no effect on subject tracking.
Other Settings to change:
Enable Boost
Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.
Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.
Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document. Some people have reported this causes issues with Sigma lens using the Fringer adapters. Test before and after changing so you know if you should use constant stabilization for your lens.
The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.
I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.
If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.
I’ve also programed a button for Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.
Map ISO to the d-pad up and down buttons. This is an easy way to change the ISO. Up to increase, down to decrease.
I welcome corrections and suggestions.
I hope this helps some of you,
Morris
Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.
9/12/2022 added ISO on d-pad up and down buttons
10/18/2022 mention speed tracking experiment. List reported issues with Sigma lenses and stabilization while shooting. No longer calling the setup draft.
tobycat2 wrote:
How much more success do you have using these settings on the xh2s compared to the xt3?
I did very well on the X-T3. The X-H2s has a wonderful bright, lag and black out free EVF and this makes photographing action much easier. I suspect the older Fuji EVFs caused people to have trouble tracking there subjects which cause the camera to struggle to focus.
Ed_Anderson wrote:
Thank you for sharing these settings - I've noticed an immediate improvement in my camera's ability to lock focus on birds in flight.
I use the BIF setting for baseball. I have tried 3x3 zone, wide tracking and single point AF-C. I have some success but there is one scenario which I struggle with. When the batter and catcher are close to a chain link fence, sometimes the focus switches to the fence. I assume this is similar to a bird in front of tree branches. What is the best way to handle this situation?
joesfbay wrote:
I use the BIF setting for baseball. I have tried 3x3 zone, wide tracking and single point AF-C. I have some success but there is one scenario which I struggle with. When the batter and catcher are close to a chain link fence, sometimes the focus switches to the fence. I assume this is similar to a bird in front of tree branches. What is the best way to handle this situation?
There are two solutions:
- In the AF-C custom settings, change to Front. If something gets into the zone in front of your subject, focus will switch to the closest thing
- Use single point and no larger than the subject's face.
I'm planning a write up that covers more about Fuji AF and this will be covered in it.
As always, thanks Morris for keeping the settings updated and provide user experience to those who do not have the time to analyze the rather confusing Fuji AF system ^^
morris wrote:
There are two solutions:
- In the AF-C custom settings, change to Front. If something gets into the zone in front of your subject, focus will switch to the closest thing
- Use single point and no larger than the subject's face.
I'm planning a write up that covers more about Fuji AF and this will be covered in it.
I think this came up in another thread, but are you starting with Manual mode or Aperture priority mode? If I remember correctly, you said you always use aperture priority.
My assumption was that I need to use a shutter speed of 1/2000th or higher and as much as 1/3200th to ensure I don't get motion blur for BIF. I realize that panning technique plays a role here too.
As such, I've always started with manual mode and used your settings with somewhat good results.
Here is how my X-H2S is setup for BIF based on your settings. Please let me know what you would change.
Starting with Manual mode on the PASM dial.
Shutter speed set to 1/2500th.
ISO set to Auto, allowing it to float between base ISO and 6400.
Aperture set to lowest f-stop setting at 150mm (f5.6 on my xf 150-600mm).
Per your recommendations:
AF-C with Zone focus mode.
Zone set to 3 boxes.
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
Boost enabled.
Natural Live View: Off
Release/Focus Priority: Release
Human face/eye: Off
These settings are saved to "C2" on my X-H2S.
Thanks.
