Morris's X-H2s Birds In Flight Setup – Updated 10/18/2022
These settings have been verified to work with Firmware V1.03 - V 2.1 and is my setup as of 11/12/2022
The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will focus and track it.
The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.
I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
- 11/12/2022 I've experimented with Speed tracking sensitivity of 2. If there is contrast, this works yet if the contrast is low initial acquisition is near impossible. If you run into issues with low contrast focusing switch to 1. Some might want to set up a way to quickly switch. At this point I've seen enough issues to say 1 is the best choice. Also note that AF-C custom settings are just that and have no effect on subject tracking.
Other Settings to change:
Enable Boost
Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.
Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.
Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document. Some people have reported this causes issues with Sigma lens using the Fringer adapters. Test before and after changing so you know if you should use constant stabilization for your lens.
The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.
I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.
If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.
I’ve also programed a button for Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.
Map ISO to the d-pad up and down buttons. This is an easy way to change the ISO. Up to increase, down to decrease.
I welcome corrections and suggestions.
I hope this helps some of you,
Morris
Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.
9/12/2022 added ISO on d-pad up and down buttons
10/18/2022 mention speed tracking experiment. List reported issues with Sigma lenses and stabilization while shooting. No longer calling the setup draft.
Morris's X-H2s Birds In Flight Setup – Updated 10/18/2022
These settings have been verified to work with Firmware V1.03 - V 2.0 and is my setup as of 10/18/2022
The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will focus and track it.
The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.
I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 2
Zone area switching: Center
- 10/31/2022 I've experimented with Speed tracking sensitivity of 2. If there is contrast, this works yet if the contrast is low initial acquisition is near impossible. If you run into issues with low contrast focusing switch to 1. Some might want to set up a way to quickly switch.
Other Settings to change:
Enable Boost
Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.
Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.
Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document. Some people have reported this causes issues with Sigma lens using the Fringer adapters. Test before and after changing so you know if you should use constant stabilization for your lens.
The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.
I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.
If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.
I’ve also programed a button for Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.
Map ISO to the d-pad up and down buttons. This is an easy way to change the ISO. Up to increase, down to decrease.
I welcome corrections and suggestions.
I hope this helps some of you,
Morris
Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.
9/12/2022 added ISO on d-pad up and down buttons
10/18/2022 mention speed tracking experiment. List reported issues with Sigma lenses and stabilization while shooting. No longer calling the setup draft.
Morris's X-H2s Birds In Flight Setup – Updated 10/18/2022
These settings have been verified to work with Firmware V1.03 - V 2.0 and is my setup as of 10/18/2022
The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will focus and track it.
The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.
I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
- 10/24/2022 I've experimented with Speed tracking sensitivity of 2. If there is contrast, this works yet if the contrast is low initial acquisition is near impossible. I'm staying with 1 yet some might want to set up a way to quickly switch.
Other Settings to change:
Enable Boost
Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.
Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.
Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document. Some people have reported this causes issues with Sigma lens using the Fringer adapters. Test before and after changing so you know if you should use constant stabilization for your lens.
The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.
I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.
If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.
I’ve also programed a button for Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.
Map ISO to the d-pad up and down buttons. This is an easy way to change the ISO. Up to increase, down to decrease.
I welcome corrections and suggestions.
I hope this helps some of you,
Morris
Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.
9/12/2022 added ISO on d-pad up and down buttons
10/18/2022 mention speed tracking experiment. List reported issues with Sigma lenses and stabilization while shooting. No longer calling the setup draft.
Morris's X-H2s Birds In Flight Setup – Updated 10/18/2022
These settings have been verified to work with Firmware V1.03 - V 2.0 and is my setup as of 10/18/2022
The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will focus and track it.
The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.
I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
- 10/18/2022 I've been experimenting with Speed tracking sensitivity of 2. This seems to be a good improvement and while the manual contains the same warning as previous models, regarding low contrast, this has not been an issue so far. The camera reacts faster to subject motion with the higher setting. I'll come to a conclusion about this change in a few weeks.
Other Settings to change:
Enable Boost
Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.
Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.
Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document. Some people have reported this causes issues with Sigma lens using the Fringer adapters. Test before and after changing so you know if you should use constant stabilization for your lens.
The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.
I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.
If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.
I’ve also programed a button for Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.
Map ISO to the d-pad up and down buttons. This is an easy way to change the ISO. Up to increase, down to decrease.
I welcome corrections and suggestions.
I hope this helps some of you,
Morris
Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.
9/12/2022 added ISO on d-pad up and down buttons
10/18/2022 mention speed tracking experiment. List reported issues with Sigma lenses and stabilization while shooting. No longer calling the setup draft.
Morris's X-H2s Birds In Flight Setup – Updated 10/18/2020
These settings have been verified to work with Firmware V1.03 - V 2.0 and is my setup as of 10/18/2020
The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will focus and track it.
The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.
I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
- 10/18/2020 I've been experimenting with Speed tracking sensitivity of 2. This seems to be a good improvement and while the manual contains the same warning as previous models, regarding low contrast, this has not been an issue so far. The camera reacts faster to subject motion with the higher setting. I'll come to a conclusion about this change in a few weeks.
Other Settings to change:
Enable Boost
Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.
Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.
Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document. Some people have reported this causes issues with Sigma lens using the Fringer adapters. Test before and after changing so you know if you should use constant stabilization for your lens.
The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.
I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.
If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.
I’ve also programed a button for Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.
Map ISO to the d-pad up and down buttons. This is an easy way to change the ISO. Up to increase, down to decrease.
I welcome corrections and suggestions.
I hope this helps some of you,
Morris
Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.
9/12/2022 added ISO on d-pad up and down buttons
10/18/2022 mention speed tracking experiment. List reported issues with Sigma lenses and stabilization while shooting. No longer calling the setup draft.
These settings have been verified to work with Firmware V1.03 - V 2.0 and is my setup as of 10/18/2020
The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will focus and track it.
The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.
I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
- 10/18/2020 I've been experimenting with Speed tracking sensitivity of 2. This seems to be a good improvement and while the manual contains the same warning as previous models, regarding low contrast, this has not been an issue so far. The camera reacts faster to subject motion with the higher setting. I'll come to a conclusion about this change in a few weeks.
Other Settings to change:
Enable Boost
Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.
Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.
Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document. Some people have reported this causes issues with Sigma lens using the Fringer adapters. Test before and after changing so you know if you should use constant stabilization for your lens.
The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.
I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.
If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.
I’ve also programed a button for Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.
Map ISO to the d-pad up and down buttons. This is an easy way to change the ISO. Up to increase, down to decrease.
I welcome corrections and suggestions.
I hope this helps some of you,
Morris
Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.
9/12/2022 added ISO on d-pad up and down buttons
10/18/2022 mention speed tracking experiment. List reported issues with Sigma lenses and stabilization while shooting.
These settings have been verified to work with Firmware V1.03 and my setup as of 9/5/2020
The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will focus and track it.
The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.
I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
Other Settings to change:
Enable Boost
Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.
Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.
Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document.
The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.
I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.
If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.
I’ve also programed a button for Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.
Map ISO to the d-pad up and down buttons. This is an easy way to change the ISO. Up to increase, down to decrease.
I welcome corrections and suggestions.
I hope this helps some of you,
Morris
Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.
These settings have been verified to work with Firmware V1.03 and my setup as of 9/5/2020
The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will focus and track it.
The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.
I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
Other Settings to change:
Enable Boost
Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.
Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.
Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document.
The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.
I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.
If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.
The last button I’ve programed is Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.
I welcome corrections and suggestions.
I hope this helps some of you,
Morris
Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.
Sep 05, 2022 at 08:28 PM
Previous versions of morris's message #16037301 « Morris's X-H2s Birds In Flight Setup – Updated 11/12/2022 »
