I think this came up in another thread, but are you starting with Manual mode or Aperture priority mode? If I remember correctly, you said you always use aperture priority.
My assumption was that I need to use a shutter speed of 1/2000th or higher and as much as 1/3200th to ensure I don't get motion blur for BIF. I realize that panning technique plays a role here too.
As such, I've always started with manual mode and used your settings with somewhat good results.
Here is how my X-H2S is setup for BIF based on your settings. Please let me know what you would change.
Starting with Manual mode on the PASM dial.
Shutter speed set to 1/2500th.
ISO set to Auto, allowing it to float between base ISO and 6400.
Aperture set to lowest f-stop setting at 150mm (f5.6 on my xf 150-600mm).
Per your recommendations:
AF-C with Zone focus mode.
Zone set to 3 boxes.
Tracking sensitivity: 4
Speed tracking sensitivity: 1
Zone area switching: Center
Boost enabled.
Natural Live View: Off
Release/Focus Priority: Release
Human face/eye: Off
These settings are saved to "C2" on my X-H2S.
Thanks. ...Show more →
I use aperture priority with a fixed ISO and let the shutter speed float. There is no reason you can not keep aperture and shutter fixed and let the ISO float. As you get better you can experiment with slower shutter speeds and see if you like showing some wing blur to indicate motion.
Are you using subject tracking? It will get you nice sharp eyes which is hard to do moving the joystick.
morris wrote:
I use aperture priority with a fixed ISO and let the shutter speed float. There is no reason you can not keep aperture and shutter fixed and let the ISO float. As you get better you can experiment with slower shutter speeds and see if you like showing some wing blur to indicate motion.
Are you using subject tracking? It will get you nice sharp eyes which is hard to do moving the joystick.
Morris
Yes. I should have mentioned that I am using subject tracking (bird of course).
Can I ask which ISO you have it fixed to? Once I know that, I'll try your exact settings and see how it goes for me. Thanks.
Hello Morris & anyone else who uses XH2s, its been a long time since I got on Fred Miranda forums but I'm researching three cameras, XT5 XH2 and XH2s. Personally I'm leaning towards the XH2s (I'm using an XT3 right now) but worried its overkill for what Id use it for. I do nature, birding, landscape and people. Mostly wildlife is my main thing. From what I've read this camera is more about the video specs, am I right? My main issue would be price of a card for video if I choose to occasionally use it, and ease of changing exposure during shooting. Is this camera a big learning curve? From what I've seen XH2s is the only one of the 3 with good auto focus tracking for birds etc. I've sold my canons (no more full frame) and I want a camera that will future proof me for a good five years.
SamuraiDog wrote:
Yes. I should have mentioned that I am using subject tracking (bird of course).
Can I ask which ISO you have it fixed to? Once I know that, I'll try your exact settings and see how it goes for me. Thanks.
On a bright sunny day I use ISO 400 yet later in the day ISO 800 and up. It depends on what shutter speed range I want to get and how much noise I need to address in post.
aladyforty wrote:
Hello Morris & anyone else who uses XH2s, its been a long time since I got on Fred Miranda forums but I'm researching three cameras, XT5 XH2 and XH2s. Personally I'm leaning towards the XH2s (I'm using an XT3 right now) but worried its overkill for what Id use it for. I do nature, birding, landscape and people. Mostly wildlife is my main thing. From what I've read this camera is more about the video specs, am I right? My main issue would be price of a card for video if I choose to occasionally use it, and ease of changing exposure during shooting. Is this camera a big learning curve? From what I've seen XH2s is the only one of the 3 with good auto focus tracking for birds etc. I've sold my canons (no more full frame) and I want a camera that will future proof me for a good five years....Show more →
Hi Julie,
It's been a long time and it's great to hear from you. The X-H2s is a hybrid camera and is a super choice for stills or video. I shoot 99% stills with it. My understanding is that you can shoot video on a very fast SD card. As I like to shoot at 40 FPS I find the compact flash express type B card a benefit. The focus on the X-H2s is blazing fast. I came from an X-T3 and the focus speed and tracking improvements are immediately noticeable. While I liked using all the top exposure dials on the X-T3 I quickly adapted to using PASM again. I have not tried the other cameras you are looking at to say how much faster the X-H2s is. If you choose to get the X-H2s I'd be happy to share how I set up my exposure dials to make it super easy.
aladyforty wrote:
Hello Morris & anyone else who uses XH2s, its been a long time since I got on Fred Miranda forums but I'm researching three cameras, XT5 XH2 and XH2s. Personally I'm leaning towards the XH2s (I'm using an XT3 right now) but worried its overkill for what Id use it for. I do nature, birding, landscape and people. Mostly wildlife is my main thing. From what I've read this camera is more about the video specs, am I right? My main issue would be price of a card for video if I choose to occasionally use it, and ease of changing exposure during shooting. Is this camera a big learning curve? From what I've seen XH2s is the only one of the 3 with good auto focus tracking for birds etc. I've sold my canons (no more full frame) and I want a camera that will future proof me for a good five years....Show more →
I went for the X-H2S mainly for the file sizes. I also come from the X-T3 plus X-H1, and do like the results of the 26MP sensor..
While I’m still struggling at times with the AF of the X-H2S, currently I’m using it like I would the X-T3, subject detection turned off and I’m getting more keepers I’m happy with. I would like to also turn IBIS off but I think it also disables the lens stabilisation as well. Some of my happysnaps can be viewed in the link below
Thank you for the input. I’m going to implement your settings and try some birds in flight. Currently I’m not getting sharp images with my XH2s and 200 f2 with 1.4 converter.
morris wrote:
Hi Julie,
It's been a long time and it's great to hear from you. The X-H2s is a hybrid camera and is a super choice for stills or video. I shoot 99% stills with it. My understanding is that you can shoot video on a very fast SD card. As I like to shoot at 40 FPS I find the compact flash express type B card a benefit. The focus on the X-H2s is blazing fast. I came from an X-T3 and the focus speed and tracking improvements are immediately noticeable. While I liked using all the top exposure dials on the X-T3 I quickly adapted to using PASM again. I have not tried the other cameras you are looking at to say how much faster the X-H2s is. If you choose to get the X-H2s I'd be happy to share how I set up my exposure dials to make it super easy.
Thanks for sharing Morris. This is my first post here after leaving DPReview and I have been following your BIF posts since joining the Fuji family. I am using an X-S10 with the 90mm/F2 - not the best for BIF but I have learned a tremendous amount about autofocus while trying to use your settings on our local duck population. It has worked surprisingly well, but one thing I changed that made a significant improvement for me was to use "front" for Zone Area Switching. I think it is because we are surrounded by trees and there is always something in the background to lock on accidentally. Otherwise, the settings have worked well for me for any type of action shots. Again, the information you have provided has accelerated my understanding of Fuji's autofocus capability.
I recently got the X-H2S, coming from an X-T20 so it is a huge jump and I am amazed!
I use the 70-300mm, sometimes with the 1.4x TC.
I have been using bird subject detection and getting good results but some soft or out of focus shots even when eye is showing locked on. This could be due to several factors and I have not used the camera enough yet to really see how much of an issue it is.
Do you shoot with subject detection on or off Morris?
bluewinged46er wrote:
Thanks for sharing Morris. This is my first post here after leaving DPReview and I have been following your BIF posts since joining the Fuji family. I am using an X-S10 with the 90mm/F2 - not the best for BIF but I have learned a tremendous amount about autofocus while trying to use your settings on our local duck population. It has worked surprisingly well, but one thing I changed that made a significant improvement for me was to use "front" for Zone Area Switching. I think it is because we are surrounded by trees and there is always something in the background to lock on accidentally. Otherwise, the settings have worked well for me for any type of action shots. Again, the information you have provided has accelerated my understanding of Fuji's autofocus capability. ...Show more →
I'm glad that this helped you and that you learned enough to adjust for your needs.
Stevestuart wrote:
I recently got the X-H2S, coming from an X-T20 so it is a huge jump and I am amazed!
I use the 70-300mm, sometimes with the 1.4x TC.
I have been using bird subject detection and getting good results but some soft or out of focus shots even when eye is showing locked on. This could be due to several factors and I have not used the camera enough yet to really see how much of an issue it is.
Do you shoot with subject detection on or off Morris?
I use subject detection except if there are factors that prevent it from working such as obstruction.
Thanks for this incredibly useful post, which I came across after Googling for some help with bird photography.
I'm getting started with a Fujifilm X-T5, and most of your X-H2s settings are equally applicable. I've been doing some BiF photography just for fun, and it's been quite hard working out the settings that work best.
The only thing I can't find on my X-T5 is Subject Eye Detection. I have Face/Eye Detection but as soon as I set that it disables Subject Detection - so it's for humans only I guess :-)
FWIW I just updated my X-T5 firmware from 1.03 (purchased) to 2.02 (13 July 2023 update) & I notice there have been improvements to subject detection, including 'insects' (with the 'birds' setting) and 'drones' (with 'airplanes'). Fuji claim that subject detection sensitivity has also been improved.
alanrewfm wrote:
Thanks for this incredibly useful post, which I came across after Googling for some help with bird photography.
I'm getting started with a Fujifilm X-T5, and most of your X-H2s settings are equally applicable. I've been doing some BiF photography just for fun, and it's been quite hard working out the settings that work best.
The only thing I can't find on my X-T5 is Subject Eye Detection. I have Face/Eye Detection but as soon as I set that it disables Subject Detection - so it's for humans only I guess :-)
FWIW I just updated my X-T5 firmware from 1.03 (purchased) to 2.02 (13 July 2023 update) & I notice there have been improvements to subject detection, including 'insects' (with the 'birds' setting) and 'drones' (with 'airplanes'). Fuji claim that subject detection sensitivity has also been improved....Show more →
I'm glad to help. Face/Eye detection is for humans only. Subject detection bird will first focus on the bird, then the head and if it sees it the eye. They made that statement about the X-H2s in a release a while ago. I think it's because some of us have stated that bird works on insects and aircraft works on drones (which IMHO are aircraft unless the drone is a boat).
morris wrote:
I'm glad to help. Face/Eye detection is for humans only. Subject detection bird will first focus on the bird, then the head and if it sees it the eye. They made that statement about the X-H2s in a release a while ago. I think it's because some of us have stated that bird works on insects and aircraft works on drones (which IMHO are aircraft unless the drone is a boat).
I'm considering buying xs20 for some birding. I currently have nikkor 300mm f4 AFS (no vr version). Would IBIS in xs20 still work for this lens with fringer adaper?
